Where the dust meets the black gravel, Playa Venao is a beach town divided.

On one side: a too-large car park stripped of nature and filled with SUVs, converted shipping-containers, widescreen TVs show sports sports sports, billboards for multi-day electronic beach parties, and modern condos that could belong anywhere from Florida to Baja. Enclosed, new, and defined by metal, concrete, and glass contrasts.

On the other: open-sided restaurants, wooden structures built for breeze rather than air-con, and a more porous, mutual relationship with the tropical landscape.

Palapa, dusty, barefoot, and softer - shaped by nature rather than trying to taming it.

Same crescent bay, radically different feel depending on where you are.

From its origins as an off-the-beaten-track surfer secret, this hub on a gorgeous stretch of the Azuero Peninsula has really only been built in the last two decades. There’s now a new road, a gas station, and resort-living ‘real estate’ opportunities, with a layout and a vibe unlike any other Panamanian beach town. A long-term resident told us over coffee that the split in the bay is mainly due to a fallout between investors who drove Playa Venao’s initial development, and their competing visions of what a beach town should be are clearly still at play.

Modern and manicured on the left side, or curated and rustic to the right.

One could say you get the best of both worlds - but to us, the contrast is jarring and needs to be factored in with eyes wide open.

If you do that, and choose to stay or hang out mostly on the side which mostly suits your travel style, then there’s a lot to like about Playa Venao. It offers some of the best foodie options we found on our month-long Panama trip, two gorgeous beaches to choose from, plus good surf and swimming. For those looking for more of a vacation vibe than a backpacker one, it certainly ticks a lot of boxes, and is firmly established itself as the place to go in Panama to party.

In this article, we’ve shared the best things to do in Playa Venao, plus advice on where to stay, where to eat, and how to get there from elsewhere in Panama.

This is our travel guide to Playa Venao.

Things to Do in Playa Venao

Go Surfing

If you’ve ever thought about learning to surf, Playa Venao may be perfect for you.

The beach slopes gently into the water, the bottom is soft sand rather than sharp reef, and the waves are usually in that sweet spot: big enough to get you moving, but rarely intimidating. It’s one of the most accessible surf spots in Panama, and ideal for first-timers and those still building confidence.

It’s especially popular for beginners during the summer months, when the swell is smaller and spaced out nicely - meaning if you do end up in the water (you will), you’ll usually have time to get back on the board before the next wave rolls in! Stronger surfers do still head out here (especially locals), but we noticed they generally stuck to the right side of the beach where there’s a little more power to play with; on the whole it’s not where people come chasing big barrels.

Serious surfers do however base themselves here and venture out in 4x4s to find those.

Lessons typically cost around $40 USD, and if you want to keep the board afterwards for extra practice, you’ll need to rent one separately. Daily rentals are available from a myriad of agencies on and behind the beach with prices hovering around $20, but prices get much better the longer you keep it; a week-long rental of around $90 is pretty normal, and ideal if you know you’ll be in and out of the water most days.

Booking a couple of lessons early in your stay will save you wasting time battling the basics alone, and instructors will help you pick the calmest spot in the bay based on that morning’s conditions. Speaking of which, mornings are usually the best window - cleaner waves, lighter winds, and smaller crowds.

Surf Schools & Camps

There are plenty of places in Venao that will hand you a board and send you towards the sea, but a few outfits stand out if you want a bit more structure than that.

Shokogi Surf School runs lessons, surf camps, and custom surf trips out of Playa Venao, aimed squarely at beginners and intermediates who want to actually progress rather than just tick ‘went surfing’ off a list. Camps range from week-long to longer progression stays, with daily coaching, theory, and kit included, plus accomodation. They’re also a good option for board rental and have great long-term deals on a variety of boards.

Beach Break Surf Camp is a long-running beachfront hotel and surf camp that packages up lessons, board hire, accommodation and meals, with everything happening a few steps from the sand. It’s well set up for solo travellers, couples, and even families, and a good shout for people who want surf to be the focus of their time here without fussing about logistics. 

Ride the Waves have a small property in the heart of Playa Venao where they offer surf and yoga retreats in more boutique surroundings.

At El Sitio de Playa Venao, the surf set-up is more low-key but still very convenient: you’re staying right at the centre of the bay, with board rental and lessons easily arranged, and a good bar attached for the post-session drink.

Although we can’t full-heartedly recommend the Selina properties in Playa Venao - scroll down to our ‘where to stay’ section to find out why - it would be remiss of us not to mention their surf camps. They offer shorter packages with lessons and all-day board rental which would suit a beginner looking to catch their first wave (as opposed to more intermediate surfers looking to improve).

Follow the Cascada Trail

The hills behind Playa Venao were once little more than grazed pastureland, cleared for cattle and largely devoid of shade - Eco Venao changed that.

The land was bought with a clear intention to reforest it and build eco-focussed lodges, and over the years the project has quietly taken root. What you walk through today is a young but thriving forest, and the trail is open to non-guests, so anyone staying in Playa Venao can explore it.

The loop takes around 45 minutes to an hour depending on how often you stop. It mostly meanders through forest, but at about halfway passes by the most idyllic waterfall and swimming hole; we’ve been to a lot of spots like this, but this one was really quite wonderful.

It was also surprisingly quiet on the late Sunday morning we visited, with just two other couples peacefully chilling in the cool water.

Annoyingly we didn’t pack our swimstuff so had to be satisfied with a wee paddle - don’t make the same mistake!

The trail then climbs steadily towards a mirador with panoramic views across the bay. If you don’t have a drone, this is the easiest way to get that bird’s-eye perspective of Venao: the curve of beach below, surfers out on the break, and the green hills rising behind. It’s peaceful up here too; sit on one of the benches for a while and let the breeze do its thing.

Where | You can find Eco Venao here, around a 15-minute walk from the centre of the village.

Parking is located a short distance from the entrance, which is where you’ll find the small reception area on the right hand side.

Entrance Fee | Entry for non-guests is $4 USD per person, and you will be provided with a helpful little map and any further information you require.

Bring | It’s not a difficult hike, but we would recommend taking water and avoiding doing it in the middle of the day.

As mentioned, we didn’t pack our swimstuff so had to be satisfied with a wee paddle - don’t make the same mistake!

Tip // If you can, go in the week for optimising chances of no others. You can also stay at Eco Venao - check availability here

Spend the Day at La Playita

A short drive - or amble through the forest - from the main sweep of Playa Venao, La Playita feels like a different proposition altogether.

Quieter, greener, wilder and far more about swimming than surf.

Much more Latino in vibe and set-up too.

The water here is strikingly clear and calm, with a pale blue colour that barely ripples on most days, and stays shallow for a good stretch from the shore. Indeed, it feels closer to a natural swimming pool than open ocean, making it especially well-suited to families or anyone keen on a long, unhurried dip (without worrying about getting hit in the head by a rogue board).

The beach is backed by a line of trees that provide reliable shade throughout the day, and there are simple wooden tables dotted beneath them, used by local families for picnics, particularly at weekends.

We visited on a Sunday an it was understandably much busier, but given there were so few travellers there, it would likely feel beautifully calm in the week.

We really loved it.

How to Get There | You can find La Playita here on Google Maps.

If you have a car, we recommend driving there but be fully aware that the road to reach the beach is unpaved, very bumpy and probably not worth attempting after heavy rain (unless you have a 4WD).

Going a bit quicker over the stones is better than slowing right down by the way.

Parking is a free for all, and will fill up on weekends.

Alternatively, you can arrive via a trail beginning in Playa Venao that passes through the trees. This takes around 30 minutes but we were advised by a local that it should only be attempted during low tide. As this beach is best enjoyed at high tide, this means that unless you spend the entire day here, you will inevitably have to arrive or return at least one way via the road. Let us know in the comments if you have more advice/experience for this!

Entrance Fee | There is unfortunately (and surprisingly) an entrance fee to access La Playita. This is $5 USD per person Monday to Thursday, and $7 USD at the weekend. If you’re bringing in a cooler, it’s $10 USD per person. Cash only.

It’s likely that you don’t have to pay admission if you arrive by via the trail as the payment was taken at the gated entrance. 

Amenities | There is a simple restaurant here, serving hearty Panamanian dishes and selling cold beers and soft drinks. Annoyingly however, unlike many places we’ve visited in Central America that charge a fee to access, you cannot redeem your entry against any food and drink.

There’s also a small hotel.

There’s a small nature trail you can follow, home to a large family of howler monkeys and lots of bright red parrots. Plus, oddly enough, a couple of deer. The monkeys and birds stayed in the trees so no real concerns about their welfare, but the deer could find it overwhelming during busier periods.

Enjoy Sunset Cocktails

Whilst the sun doesn’t drop directly into the ocean in Playa Venao, it doesn’t make the sunsets any less spectacular; the whole bay glows, the hills fade into layered silhouettes, and the surfers become barely visible dots against a fire-filled sky.

And what’s the best way to enjoy a sunset? With an expertly-made cocktail and a good soundtrack.

Given that bars, restaurants and hotels run the entire length of the main beach, there are no shortage of spots to settle in for the golden hour, but after our few nights spent in Venao, there are two that standout as our pick of the bunch:

El Sitio | One of Playa Venao’s more popular hotels (think barefoot luxury with a side of surf retreats), even if you’re not staying here, you should absolutely pop by the beach front bar for a sunset drink. The reasonably-priced cocktails are excellent, the sofas low and comfy, and the bar has an Ibiza-like style and vibe. Earlier in the evening the soundtrack skews more chilled but live DJs can quickly turn the atmosphere on its head - in a positive way if you’re looking for a night out.

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La Barca | We didn’t hit our party stride during our time in Playa Venao, so the relaxed nature of La Barca, located toward the quieter, nature-filled end of Playa Venao, suited us much more. Part of the Eco Venao property and so named for the boat-shaped bar, there’s no real divide between that and the beach - tables are set directly on the sand, shoes are optional, and the soundtrack tends to be the sea rather than whatever’s playing behind the bar.

The cocktails lean more ‘interesting’ than traditional, and the mixologists are happy to make suggestions (though a bit too pushy on the specials). We could have spent several hours lounging on the giant netted hammock overlooking the beach, and the food looked goodt.

Good to Know // Selina, the eponymous hostel chain that became massive across Latin America, actually began here in this very town. We never loved them, and the company has since failed, but their first hostel in Venao continues to be a popular place to grab a drink for locals and visitors alike. However, Selina Playa didn’t really have the vibe we were hoping for, feeling a little like an unorganised beach club, with people mostly there to use the pool.

If we were paying to stay there, it would be pretty annoying.

It does have special DJ and salsa nights on throughout the month though, so it may be worth keeping an eye on what they’re advertising but we wouldn’t be rushing to spend our sunset there when there are other really great options available.

Save the Turtles

One of the most meaningful and responsible things you can do in Playa Venao is join the local conservation effort run by Tortugas Playa Venao.

This grassroots, not-for-profit organisation - started in 2020 - patrols the sands nightly during nesting season (roughly July to November, peaking in September and October), relocates vulnerable nests, monitors hatchlings, and helps release them safely into the Pacific.

And if you happen to be there at the right time of year, you can join them on one of their nightly releases, to watch the tiny turtles scuttle off toward the waves under moonlight! It costs $50 USD per person, with all proceeds directly funding the incredible they do to support the indigenous Ridley Sea Turtles.

You can find out more information on their official website, and book your place on one of the nighttime releases.

They also offer short and long term volunteer opportunities for those that would like a more hands-on and informative experience, including discounted rates on accommodations.

Know | The goal is to protect these creatures, not disturb them so if you join a hatchling release, don’t shine bright lights at them, avoid flash photography, and remain respectful at all times.

What We Would Have Done If We’d Had More Time | A Day Trip to Isla Iguana

Once used for target practice by the US Navy in the Second World War, this tiny island located just off the Azuero Coast - surrounded by the oldest coral reef in Panama - was designated a wildlife reserve more than 40 years ago.

Accessed via a 20-30 minute boat ride from Pedasi, today Isla Iguana is a popular day trip from Playa Venao, with visitors drawn to its marine life - the snorkelling is apparently next level - wild beauty and crystal clear waters.

If we’d had just another day, we would absolutely have made our way over here! Alas, we prioritised diving time to Santa Catalina.

How to Get There | If you have a car, it’s around a 1.5 hour drive from Venao to Pedasi, and boats depart from Playa El Arenal (maps). Boats cost a flat fee of $80 USD for the round trip, and hold up to five people. There are no fixed departure times, but all visitors must be off the island by 3.30pm so you should try and arrive by 9am at the latest to make the most of your time (earlier if visiting on the weekend when the boats can be quite busy).

Entry Fee | As this is a protected area, all visitors must pay an entry fee of $10 USD and you will need to record your passport details.

Alternative | If you don’t have your own vehicle, it’s also possible to join this snorkelling tour from Playa Venao, which includes transport.

Important | There are a handful of simple trails that cut across the island’s interior dry forest, and it’s important that you don’t veer off from them - it’s highly likely that there’s unexploded ordnance scattered across its 53 hectares.

Travel Tip // Roughly between July and October, humpback whales migrate along this stretch of Pacific coast, and several operators in the Pedasí / Venao area run combined whale-watching and Isla Iguana snorkelling trips. If you’re visiting in season and fancy a day off the surfboard, this could be a very special add-on!

Where to Stay in Playa Venao

Hotels & Hostels

Dos Mares Venao Village | This relatively new option is one of our favourites in Playa Venao (if you don’t mind not being on the beach). They offer a handful of really beautiful wooden bungalows, in a contemporary aesthetic with considered touches and details, all scattered around a gorgeous pool area. One of the highest-rated accommodations in town too.

El Sitio de Playa Venao | The location of one of Venao’s most popular dinner and drinks spots, El Sitio is also a hotel with a barefoot luxury sort of vibe. The rooms are large, comfortable, and tastefully decorated with a considered rustic aesthetic - think a natural palette with lots of wood. There’s also a guest pool and lots of lounging areas. It’s a super popular choice for good reason!

Wao Beach Venao | The real selling point of this accommodation is its beachfront position and gorgeous pool area, which has quite an exclusive feel to it. The hotel itself is a storage container set-up though, which definitely won’t appeal to everyone given that the rooms themselves can be a little on the cramped size - especially considering the prices are pretty high.

Beach Break Surf Camp | We ummed and ahhhed about staying here, and still think it’s a fantastic option in Playa Venao - both for those looking to surf and people, like us, just seeking a spot to chill. The rooms are simple but comfortable - they’ve got privates and dorms - and the accommodation is beachfront. They have an on-site restaurant which was very popular and offer surf lessons and rental.

Nao Hostel | Where we stayed. We ended up here because we didn’t want to pay the high prices associated with staying on the beachfront. The contemporary shipping container set-up is okay for a night or two, but the rooms were too cramped for a longer stay and can jar a bit. Doubles share locked bathrooms with another room, and there’s a guest kitchen. Around a 10-minute walk from beach.

Wao Jungle Venao is also on the same site and offers slightly larger, nicer options.

Eco Venao Lodge | Set back from the beach, in a re-forested area, they offer eco lodges for a back-to-nature experience. Staying here would offer a very different experience of Venao to the above, and will be well-suited to some travel styles (but not all).

Apartments & Villas

Blue Venao | A gated beachfront residential complex made up of privately owned villas, apartments, and penthouses, many of which are rented out on Airbnb. Rather than feeling like a single hotel, it reads more like a small, well-designed neighbourhood, with landscaped grounds, direct beach access, and a layout that keeps most properties just a short walk from the sand.

Guests staying here benefit from shared amenities including a beachfront pool area, a beach club and restaurant, and on-site security, which makes it particularly appealing for longer stays or anyone wanting a more self-contained base in Playa Venao. It’s a good option if you like the idea of having space and facilities on hand, while still being close to the surf and the rest of the bay.

It feels like almost all the properties on Airbnb in town are actually in Blue Venao, so this isn’t exhaustive, but here are some of our top picks:

One Bedroom / Mermade Suite, Couple’s Getaway,

Two Bedroom / Luxury Apartment, Beach Bliss Retreat, Beachside Oasis, Stunning Oceanview Condo

Three Bedroom / Nearly Oceanfront, Vila Sueño Azul

Playa Laska | Travelling to Playa Venao with family or friends? You need to take a look at this stunning beachfront villa. Set across two floors, it offers three large double bedrooms and ample communal space - all exquisitely furnished.

Beachfront Home is a good shout if you need somewhere with a fourth bedroom.

A note about the two Selinas // This is the spot that the Selina hostel chain began, and they previously had two properties - Selina Playa and Selina River. As mentioned, the company failed in 2024 but these two hostels remain open.

We wouldn’t recommend staying in either of them though.

The one by the river has that typical tired Selina vibe (although the restaurant is decent and in a nice setting). The other beachfront one could be nicer but the fact that any Tom, Dick or Harry can use the pool - seemingly without a fee - means it gets overrun with locals on the weekend. Given the high prices of the rooms, we’d be furious if we couldn’t enjoy the benefits of the signature pool area just because someone bought a cocktail.

Where to Eat in Playa Venao

As mentioned, you can eat really really well in Playa Venao if you know where to look and not too focussed on your budget. Given the sizeable Israeli community based here - both travellers and residents - you’ll find lots of excellent, authentic dishes you may not expect in Panama!

Coleos | An Israeli & Asian fusion restaurant in a nice patio setting, this was a consistently popular spot during our stay. Serving up large portions of excellent rice and noodle dishes (Andrew’s Filipina Picante was excellent, as was the flamed aubergine). Helpfully for non-meat eaters, all options are vegetarian by default then you can add a protein.

Motek | The great ice-cream equaliser is pistachio, and this spot passed the test! The star of the show however was the ‘real chocolate’ which was truly exceptional.

Hummuseria | Really good lunch spot offering houmous plates, stuffed pitas and a handful of other main dishes. We opted for the sharing platter of nine small plates ($17) including hummus, labneh, babaganous, various fermented veggies, vine leaves and pita and were really delighted with our choice. 

Sol Venao | Recommended to us as the best spot for a healthy breakfast and we wholeheartedly agree. Offering smoothie bowls, chia pudding, pancakes and regular smoothies, it was the perfect start to the day. Its location back from the beach makes it a super chilled spot too. 

La Quincha | This fusion Spanish and Panamanian restaurant offers wonderful ambience and design, with incredibly good value plates with foodie consideration. Carnivores will love it, but we went for the highly recommended ceviche, tuna tartar, and catch of the day. It’s a little on the pricey side but more than worth it - our recommendation if you want something memorable in the evening.

Almendros Cafe | We headed here after hearing that they served the best coffee in town. Our coffees were nothing terribly special but the breakfasts were really decent. Located within the River Selina property, it feels a little like you’re amongst the jungle (we wouldn’t stay here, but it’s a nice spot for food).

Gato Loco | A popular spot for dinner that makes a decent pizza. If dining here in the evening, we’d recommend grabbing a table on the sand as the music can be obnoxiously loud under the roof and near the kitchen.

How to Get to Playa Venao

By Car

A lot of travellers have a rental car here.

We drove to Playa Venao from El Valle de Anton, following the road south as it unwound through the Azuero Peninsula. This was one of the longest driving days of our trip - 243km/150 miles - but not a chore. We took our time, taking in the surroundings, the towns and the culture, but you can cover it in four hours without stops.

If coming from Panama City, it’s around a five-hour drive.

There’s now a gas station, but it’s best to fill up before you arrive in Venao as costs about 20-25% more.

By Shuttle

As we explain below, travelling to Playa Venao by bus is totally possible. However, given the time required, shuttles are the most popular way to reach Playa Venao.

You can usually arrange these with your accommodation in Panama City, but if you’d prefer to book it in advance of your arrival, this one has excellent reviews.

They also have an option going in the opposite direction if you’re travelling down through Panama.

By Bus

From Panama City | First you’ll need to take a bus to Las Tablas. These depart from Panama City’s Albrook Bus Station approximately every hour from 6am to 4pm, but be aware that the final destination may say Chitré instead. Tickets cost $10 USD per person and the journey should take around four hours.

From Las Tablas there is one direct bus to Playa Venao which leaves around 1pm (takes approximately 75 minutes). If you miss this - or will be waiting around for it - you can alternatively hop on one of the frequent departures to Pedasi from which there are more regular minibuses to Venao - we believe these leave at 11am, 2pm, 4pm and 7pm.

Alternatively, you can speed up the journey by taking a taxi for the final leg - the fare from Pedasí to Playa Venao will cost approximately $25 USD, and from Las Tablas approximately $35 - $40 USD.

If these buses to Playa Venao improve, or there’s a better way to do the journey, let us know in the comments!

From El Valle | This is the previous stop in our suggested Panama itinerary. Unfortunately, there’s currently no direct public or shuttle bus from El Valle to Venao. Instead, start early with the bus for Panama City, but get off at Las Uvas. From there, takes a bus to Chitre and then the bus to Las Tablas and follow the directions above.

Due to the multiple connections, this journey can take 7+ hours so it’s important to set off in good time to make that 1.30pm bus (doesn’t run on Sundays).

Travel More in Panama

There’s a misconception that Panama is a place to rush through, rather than linger.

Some people may also think you’d be crazy to consider it for a standalone adventure, instead of its better-known neighbours to the north and south.

We’ve explained why those assumptions are plain wrong in 11 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama, but the nutshell is this: this skinny, stretched out Central American country flies relatively under the travel radar, yet offers pretty much everything we love about travel in this part of the world.

Untouched beaches. Stunning hikes. Wildlife. Great coffee. Volcanoes. Paradise islands. Colonial architecture. Different cultures. Impeccable diving. Unexpected stories new and old. Surfing. A sense of adventure.

It does let the side down on the corn tortilla count though - but for some, that may even be a bonus!

On our second visit - which was mostly about giving Panama a second chance - we were fortunate enough to have a month to play with across the dry, sunny January and February. Frankly, that’s an insane, decadent amount of time and we’re not expecting you to have four weeks out there.

Here at Along Dusty Roads though, we're all about slow travel and spending a little longer in places so we can share exactly what needs to be top of your list - and that’s what this Panama itinerary is designed to do.

We’ll tell you where you really need to go, what you really need to do there, how to travel between each place, and how many days it’s best to spend in each.

It covers the classic experiences - Panama City and the Canal, San Blas, Bocas del Toro - alongside several lesser-known stops that don’t make it onto every Panama itinerary. Whilst we rented a car for the first two weeks for a bit of a Panama road trip, then switched to buses, boats, and a single short flight, everywhere we visited on this route can also be reached with public transport, taxis, tours, or walking.

There are specific reasons why the road trip / public transport mix works well here - which we’ll unpack later - but renting a car isn’t essential for our itinerary.

Lastly, we know it takes time, re-writes, and the occasional argument, to craft the perfect itinerary for your own travel style and preferences; our goal is to make it easier for you, rather than add to the stress! So, after the day-by-day overviews, you’ll find the the essential pointers, the changes we’d make in hindsight, plus the key questions you need to ask yourself when it comes down to prioritising places or trimming days off.

At the end, we’ve also laid out exactly how to adapt our month into a nifty curated two-weeks - and important caveats for anyone arriving via Costa Rica or Colombia.

This is our (almost) perfect Panama itinerary for travellers.

The Panama Itinerary Map

Places | Panama City > El Valle de Anton > Azuero Peninsula > Santa Catalina > Boquete > Bocas del Toro > Panama City > San Blas Islands (Guna Yala)

Races | Rental car, public buses and shuttles, variety of boats, 4x4 tour, and one short flight - can also be done without a rental car

Paces | Fully adaptable to two weeks, but shorter trips will have to trim 2-3 destinations

Our (Almost) Perfect Panama Itinerary

Day 1 | Arrive in Panama

For most standalone Panama trips, Panama City is both the entry and exit point.

Tocumen International Airport is the main gateway, though some may arrive via a boat + drive from Colombia. A city quite unlike any other in Central America, the capital is a place many pass through more than once due to the country’s logistics and geography.

How you approach Panama City depends on your trip style:

• Road-trippers may leave the airport immediately, heading west to El Valle or the Pacific coast.

• Other road-trippers may prefer to go car-free in Panama City first, then pick up their car to head west.

• Everyone else will likely spend their first few days in the capital, combining it with the San Blas islands

As our flight from the UK arrived in the late evening, we decided to just spend our first night at an airport hotel before picking up our rental car the next morning. This was partly because we’d already visited the Panama City on a previous Central America backpacking trip, but primarily because it made more sense for our route to save Panama City and the San Blas islands for the end of the trip.

There are several good reasons to do the same as us for standalone Panama road trips, but we totally understand if you’d rather settle yourself in with a couple of days in the capital first: the sequence may change, but the destinations remain the exact same!

If you want to go deeper, our full Panama City guide covers where to stay, what not to miss, and how to slot in the famous canal.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The Crowne Plaza by Tocumen was fine for airport stays and a quick rental car turnaround

Alternatives · When we returned to Panama City at the end of our trip, we first stayed in Casa Magnolia then this Airbnb in Casco Viejo - but you can find all our picks on the best places and neighbourhoods in Where To Stay in Panama City.

Transport · It’s just 30-60 minutes from Tocumen airport to downtown - find out options and costs in the How To Get From Tocumen Airport to Panama City explainer

One thing to know · Don’t try to visit the Panama Canal on your first day; instead, ease yourself in with the historic streets of Casco Viejo and a rooftop sundowner

Day 2 | Panama City > El Valle del Antón

El Valle de Antón offers a calm, refreshing contrast to the intensity of Panama City.

Nestled inside a volcanic crater, the town offers cooler temperatures, lush greenery, and easy access to waterfalls and trails. It’s a wonderful ntroduction to Panama’s landscapes and a chance to ease into the rhythm of the trip before hitting the coast and islands.

El Valle also doesn’t actually feature on most Panama itineraries though - it’s more of a favourite of wealthy weekenders from the capital - but for hikers and nature-lovers, we think it should be considered unmissable.

It’s a straightforward 3-hour drive or bus journey there from Panama City, and an early-ish departure from the capital means you can easily fit in a few hours exploring and a sunset hike to La India Dormida or La Cara Iguana.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The Blasina Hostel in El Valle was ideal, with a good kitchen plus parking for guests

Drive · It’s a manageable 2.5 hours (118km) from Panama City for road-trippers, mostly along the Pan-American Highway until you arrive in the countryside proper

Transport · You can reach El Valle easily by bus from Albrook Bus Terminal, with services running every 30 minutes between 6:30am - 6:30pm ($4.25USD, 3 hours)

Signature experience · The volcano crater views from the La India Dormida hike

One thing to know · If travelling on a Friday, leave as early as possible to avoid the congestion

Plan // The 10 Best Things to Do in El Valle de Anton

Day 3 - 4 | Hiking & Exploring El Valle

Having our own wheels made all the difference for exploring El Valle at our own pace.

Over two days, we ventured into the crater’s hills and trails, enjoyed sweeping views, and gorged on Panamanian food.

We started our first full day with Sendero Cerro Gaital, a short lesser-visited cloud forest hike. After a lunch with plenty of patacones, we tackled Cerro Cara Iguana, a more challenging 4-hour route that quickly became our favourite. Rugged, rewarding, and full of surprises, it perfectly showcases why El Valle is such a standout.

Early the next morning, we left under cover of darkness to catch the epic sunrise from Cerro La Silla - which can also be done without a rental car. Once back in town, we checked out the market, some cafes, and visited the El Valle Amphibian Conservation Center, home to the rare Rana Dorada (Golden Frog).

The afternoon was reserved for slowing things right down with a restorative trip to Las Mozas pools and waterfalls: cool water, lush surroundings, and a chance to rest tired legs after a few active days. It’s an easy, very Central America way to round off your time in El Valle, and may just be your favourite way to spend immersed in nature here.

For more detail, our full El Valle guide covers what to see, what to miss, timings, and which trails are most rewarding.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Blasina Hostel

Alternatives · Bodhi Hostel is the big backpacker favourite. The Golden Frog is a super popular guest house or, if you’d prefer an Airbnb, The Retreat is a great shout.

Drive · A car is helpful for reaching the trailheads and carving out a few extra hours each day - just watch for the potholes on the way to La Silla!

Transport · You can reach all the trailheads on foot, with a taxi from the town centre or via the local bus. Rental bicycles and e-bikes also popular for getting around.

Signature experience · The sunrise from Cerro La Silla - get prepped with our hike guide

How many days · We think you need a minimum of two full days to enjoy El Valle

One thing to know · At least one very early morning rise is worthwhile - and it’s a good idea to pack proper hiking boots and layers for El Valle

Plan // The 10 Best Things to Do in El Valle de Anton

Day 5 | Travel to Playa Venao & The Azuero Peninsula

Today sees a notable shift from the cool, lush highlands to the hot, wild Pacific side of Panama.

Leaving El Valle, the road south unwinds through the Azuero Peninsula in the southeast, one of Panama’s most characterful regions, where small towns, fishing ports, and long stretches of coastline define the journey.

Rather than rushing straight to the beach in Playa Venao - the most popular beach town on the peninsula - we instead treated this as a slow and spontaneous travel day. We stopped at a lively fish market, lingered over a beach lunch where the day’s catch was still being unloaded, and watched local life unfold along the coast.

It was the kind of drive where the random stops and scenes mattered as much as the final destination.

By the time we reached Playa Venao, the Pacific felt fully present and we were itching to dive headfirst into the blue. Surfers lined the bay, the swell rolled in with real force, and the heat was heavier, saltier - a change we were ready to embrace.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Nao Hostel. The contemporary shipping container set-up is okay for a night or two, but the rooms were too cramped for a longer stay, and it’s a little far from the beach.

Driving time · One of the longest driving days of the trip - 243km/150 miles - but not a chore; you can cover it in 4 hours without stops.

Transport · There’s currently no direct public or shuttle bus from El Valle to Venao, but it’s possible with a few bus connections.

Signature experience · Beach lunches, seeing different sides of rural Panama, and first swims in the Pacific

Day 6 | Playa Venao

In all our research, it was very challenging to find a clear recommendation between the two Pacific beach towns that came up again and again in Panama itineraries: Playa Venao and Santa Catalina.

So, we decided to visit both to make your choice easier.

The half-moon beach that composes the majority of Playa Venao is perfectly nice - and nearby La Playita is downright gorgeous - the surf good (especially for beginners) and there are some fantastic restaurants.

But the reality is that Playa Venao is a town split down the middle: one side is all modern, Americanised, TV screens, real estate, car parks, and concrete under the hot sun, whilst the other half is dusty roads, tree-filled, rustic, and way more our vibe. A visitor can straddle the two of them, but the contrast is really quite jarring.

If you’re after straight-up, easy holiday vibes, modern amenities, beachfront accommodation, and a thriving party scene, then Venao is probably the best choice for you. For anyone only focussed on the capital and the beach, it logistically also makes sense.

However, if that isn’t your vibe at all, you’ll need to be very selective about your accommodation and know which half of town to frequent - or skip it entirely.

Make your decision easier with our Playa Venao travel guide.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Nao Hostel - but it’s not a full-throated recommendation

Alternatives · We ummed and ahhed about staying at the popular Beach Break Surf Camp, El Sitio de Playa Venao is lovely (and has a fantastic restaurant and bar), whereas Eco Venao Lodge is a great option is you want something completely hidden away and nature focussed.

Drive · We used the car a little bit in and around Venao, but it’s not wholly necessary to get around

Transport · It’s a small place so you can walk everywhere, but you’ll sometimes find yourself alongside the highway

Signature experience · Spend the day at the gorgeous La Playita and have sundowner cocktails at La Barca

How many days · If it’s your sort of destination, you could easily spend 3+ days here

One thing to know · Overall, Venao tends to skew more expensive

Plan // The Playa Venao Travel Guide

Day 7-8 | Playa Cambutal & The Azuero Peninsula

This hidden away village was the wildcard pick for our trip, and it delivered beyond expectations.

There’s a long, dusty road to reach it, only a handful of accommodation options, a beautifully undeveloped beach, and where you eat each night depends on who decides to stay open. Whilst you can go as rustic and barefoot as you wish, there’s also a smattering of high-end options and retreats for those whose travel style contains multitudes.

Oh, it’s also in cowboy country.

A total contrast to our frustrations with Playa Venao, Cambutal is the very definition of ‘off-the-beaten-track’ in Panama and a brilliant place to disconnect.

We could have happily secreted ourselves there for days.

Inspired? Get ahead of the game with our short guide to Cambutal.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · This A-Frame Airbnb on the beach was an absolute gem of a find - and part of the reason we actually stayed in Cambutal

Alternatives · For barefoot luxury - and surf & yoga retreats - consider Sansara Surf & Yoga Resort.

Drive · It’s about 90-minutes from Venao - just go slow on the dusty, potholed approach road from Tonosi. A 4x4 isn’t necessary though (at least not in the dry season).

Transport · From Venao, hop on the minibuses to Tonosi and then take a taxi to Cambutal for around $18 USD

Signature experience · Early morning walks and sunset swims at the pristine, empty beach

How many days · You’ll want two nights to make the most of the journey in, but we could have stayed a week

One thing to know · There’s a fantastic shop in Cambutal, but you should stock up on cash and some supplies in Tonosi

Plan // A Short Guide to Cambutal · Panama’s Pacific Coast Secret

Day 9 | Travel to Santa Catalina

This was a twisting, gloriously scenic drive up and through the hills - with several sightings of cows on the roads and farmers on horseback - to rejoin the highway. The pitstop for Criolla food at random roadside fonda (restaurant) offered up one of the most satisfying meals of the trip, and the final stretch along a very dusty road to Santa Catalina augured well for the experiences to come.

It was just the sort of day that makes us love road trips.

The remote coastal ‘town’ of Santa Catalina is now a first-draft pick on every good Panama itinerary, and its appeal is wide-ranging: surfers, divers, beach bums, and backpackers just looking for a chilled out beach town all flock here to find their somewhere.

We certainly did.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The new Bambuda in Santa Catalina is the fanciest hostel we’ve ever stayed in, but actually worth the flashpacker splurge

Drive · It’s a very manageable six hours - you just need to go slow and sensible on the approach road from Soná to the sea. If that’s too long a journey, consider breaking up the journey with a night in Santiago.

Transport · Make your way by bus to the town of Soná, where you can connect to the Santa Catalina bus or share a taxi - you can also find plenty of shuttles to Santa Catalina from elsewhere in Panama.

One thing to know · Whether you’re driving or going with public transport, we highly recommend queuing up the three-part podcast - The Narco Dictator - which is all about Manuel Noriega, the geo-politics of the canal, and Panama’s complex history with the United States (iTunes - Spotify)

Plan // Concerned about the cost of rental or the reality of the roads out here? Read our Essential Tips for Driving in Panama for the inside track.

Day 10 - 12|Surfing & Diving in Santa Catalina

Daily life in Santa Catalina is unhurried, and still largely revolves around the tides: travellers learning to surf or testing themselves on the powerful La Punta right-hand break; boat trips out to explore the one-time prison islands of the incredible Coiba National Park; groups of snorkellers and scuba divers going deep into the blue.

In the moments in between, all you have to do is eat, drink, and perhaps nurse off a hangover on the beach or by the pool.

As scuba divers, the chance to blow bubbles in one of Central America’s most pristine marine environments was the priority for us for a full-day trip, but there was also plenty of time to do a surf lesson, dance the night away at Oasis, and take in the epic Santa Catalina sunset each night with stiff happy-hour cocktails.

Whether you’re looking to learn something new, dive, or just top up your tan in a laid-back beach town, this place ticks every box without having sold its soul.

Our full Santa Catalina guide has all the details on the surf, Coiba, and travel better tips to make the most of it.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Bambuda Santa Catalina

Alternatives · Villa Coco and La Chamba Surf House

Transport · You can walk everywhere in Santa Catalina, including across the narrow river to Playa Estero, but need a boat to the Coiba

Signature experience · The virgin beaches, untouched islands, and diving conditions in Coiba National Park - a gem of a place

How many days · We’d suggest three days as a minimum, but those with looser plans or who just want to chill could easily stay longer

One thing to know · Surf lessons start at around $30 USD per hour, and the conditions are brilliant for first-timers

Plan // Our Santa Catalina Travel Guide · Slow Roads, Big Waves & Incredible Diving

Day 13 |Travel to Boquete

The next half of our Panama itinerary now follows the well-trodden path of the gringo trail in the west of the country and, for those without a rental car, it means all your journeys become very straight forward due to decent public transport links and a glut of quicker direct shuttle buses.

We decided to skip David - Panama’s second-largest city - because we’d visited before and feel it’s more of a transit hub rather than a must-see destination.

After a slow morning, final surf, and heavy-hearted adios to the Pacific, today’s drive just about getting up to Boquete before dark.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Baia Guesthouse in Boquete

Drive · A straightforward drive, we covered the 272km/196 miles in five hours.

Transport · Lots of travellers head from Santa Catalina to Boquete, with a bus connection in David. However, you’ll save several hours by taking one of the direct daily shuttles instead - you can book them here.

Tip · If you need a coffee pitstop before the final stretch, we recommend Maple Coffee & Rock just north of David - find it here on Google Maps.

Day 14 - 16 | Coffee & Hiking in Boquete

The hill town Boquete sits in the heart of the Panamanian highlands, and is the birthplace of the most expensive coffee in the world.

It’s also an excellent hiking and outdoor adventures base.

The climate is a world away from the Pacific coast though, marking a return to hiking boots, extra layers, and the always-with-you rain jacket (sorry)!

As avid hikers and self-confessed coffee wankers, we filled our three full days easily: starting with an easy morning hike to The Lost Waterfalls before driving to several fincas (coffee farms) for tastings and tours, whilst day two saw us take on the notorious El Pianista. We finished up with a morning on the mystical but straightforward Pipeline Trail where we accidentally spotted a resplendent quetzal in the cloud forest - an experience that is much sought after in Central America, and we had zero expectations of ticking it off in Panama.

In between, there were wanderings around the town, drinks out, carb-loading meals back at the hostel, and more stops for locally-sourced coffee than anyone should reasonably imbibe in a single day. One of us also fell deep into a true crime rabbit hole, where Boquete is one of the main characters.

Our full Boquete guide covers the best hikes, coffee farms, and the reason the town is infamous on YouTube - plus what we’d skip if time is tight.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The no-frills but homely Baia Guesthouse was perfect for our travel style and budget

Alternatives · The Bambuda Castle (it’s an actual castle) is very popular amongst solo backpackers. Downtown Suites is excellent for your own space but for real luxury in the highlands, take a look at Valle Escondido Wellness Resort

Drive · Having your own car really opens up the myriad trails and fincas that encircle Boquete - some travellers even hire one for a few days whilst here

Transport · The town itself is easily walkable, but to reach the trailheads and fincas you’ll depend on shared taxis and colectivos. This is very common so won’t cause any issues - ask around at your hostel for anyone doing the hikes to split costs

Signature experience · The Lost Waterfalls trail is a favourite of many, but the experience of a geisha V60 at Lastima will stay with us for a long time

How many days · If you only want to do one or two hikes and visit a finca, two full days will be enough. Lovers of the outdoors (and those that don’t mind the weather), can easily fill three or four full days without going at a ridiculous pace

One thing to know · The weather pattern in dry season (Nov-March) can make afternoons a bit miserable in Boquete, meaning that it’s essential to start your hikes in the morning for the best conditions and visibility. Boquete becomes a premier whitewater rafting destination from May to November, as seasonal rains swell the rivers and turn the Chiriquí Viejo into a fast, technical run.

Plan // The Best Things To Do in Boquete, Panama

Day 17 | Travel to Bocas del Toro

For reasons too convoluted to fully unpack here, after wrapping up in Boquete - with a brief detour to Los Cangilones de Gualaca - our road trip came to an end in David. From there, we continued the adventure with a combination of buses, boats, and a flight.

This was a deliberate call rather than a compromise, and while you could absolutely make a different decision depending on budget, timing, or onward plans, it worked best for this itinerary and optimising our days visiting Panama’s two famous archipelagos.

We break down the logic, costs, and alternatives to our decision in our Driving in Panama Essentials guide.

Either way, there’s no avoiding David: every road out of Boquete funnels south to this transport hub, which serves as the launch point for the journey north to the islands of Bocas del Toro. These are on the Caribbean side of the isthmus, and only accessible by flight from Panama City or boat from Almirante.

On arrival in Isla Colón - the largest island in the archipelago - many will need to take one more local boat to reach your accommodation/base island.

We’ve shared the essentials below, but all the details on the transport options to reach Bocas are in this explainer post.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The amazing Airbnb on stilts on the lesser-visited Isla Bastimentos

Drive · If you keep your car, it’s a scenic 5-hour drive from Boquete to Almirante, via David. You can then choose to leave your car there before taking the lancha over or try to secure a space for it on the ferry. We explain everything over in the Driving in Panama Essentials guide.

Transport · It’s just an hour by bus from Boquete to David, then you take one of the regular minivans to Almirante (4 hours, $8 each). It’s then a 30-minute boat crossing to Isla Colón ($6 one-way). We did exactly this journey, and it went without a hitch. If you want to get there quicker or more comfortably though, you should take the shuttle + boat combo from Boquete to Bocas.

Signature experience · Whilst the boat ride is memorable, the drive up to Almirante is incredibly scenic and definitely one to look out the window rather than at your phone. It also passes through the indigenous Ngäbe-Buglé comarca, and their stilt houses and colourful dresses are a common sight.

One thing to know · There are hustlers and hasslers at the Almirante docks - pay attention and don’t let them lead you astray

Plan // How To Get To Bocas del Toro - and Onward Island Connections Explained

The Wildcard Alternative

We regret not spending at least a night at The Lost and Found Hostel

Situated on the way from David to Almirante, it’s a remote backpacker hostel hidden high up in the cloud forest of Chiriquí. You have to hike in, and the views it offers are stunning, whilst there’s jungle trails, hammocks, communal dinners, cold beers, and a proper off-the-beaten-track vibe.

It came highly recommended from a few of our Instagram followers, but we decided to prioritise extra days in Bocas.

If you’re looking to break up the journey to Bocas, or simply looking to include a beautiful lesser-visited area of Panama in your plans, then it may be the perfect choice - check prices and availability here.

Day 18 - 21 | Bocas del Toro

Bocas del Toro is noticeably different from almost anywhere else you’ll visit in Panama.

Its roots lie not just in Indigenous Ngäbe communities, but in a long Afro-Caribbean history shaped by migration, banana plantations and decades of movement through the archipelago. English creole is commonly heard, reggae and soca spill out from boats and porchfront speakers, and the daily life and vibe feels closer to the West Indies than to Panama City or the highlands.

Set among mangroves, shallow reefs and low-lying rainforest islands, the Bocas archipelago is culturally and environmentally its own thing.

For visitors, Bocas revolves around a small cluster of islands - with Isla Colón, Bastimentos, Carenero and Solarte forming the practical core - and most days end up centred on the water. Getting around means boat taxis and half-day trips rather than roads, with snorkelling, swimming and beach-hopping easy to slot together. There’s also surprisingly good surf on the Caribbean side, alongside tropical rainforest, short jungle walks and a patchwork of fragile coastal ecosystems that give the archipelago its character as much as its beaches.

It’s worth calibrating expectations though: Bocas del Toro is often imagined as a glossy, all-inclusive sort of vacation destination, but the reality is something quite different - this is part of the charm for some, but not for all.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · This amazing Airbnb over the water on Isla Bastimentos was 100% worth the splurge

Alternatives · Oasis at Bluff Beach and Bambuda Isla Solarte

Transport · You take water taxis (shared and private) between the islands and it’s a fixed fare of $5 per person - this can mount up quickly

Signature experience · For us, cycling in the rain and spotting a sloth hanging out at the roadside after his weekly ablutions

How many days · Three days will be good for most itineraries, if you get good weather. We spent longer but the rain scuppered a couple of our days’ plans

One thing to know · This area has a different climate to the other side of Panama, with frequent showers during the mainland dry season (Nov-March). We knew this before arriving in January, but it still affected our stay a lot and is a key reason why Bocas sometimes doesn’t get the plaudits it should. We were told that September to October are the very best months for sunshine weather here!

Plan // Things To Know Before You Visit Bocas del Toro (published soon)

Day 22 | Fly back to Panama City

Whilst we try to avoid domestic flights, this one solved a logistics issue and gave us an extra couple of days to play with in Bocas and San Blas.

There are multiple direct daily flights from the tiny airport on Isla Colón to Panama City, taking just an hour to to touch down in the capital. The cheapest ticket we’ve seen is the $80 USD basic fare, but the average price comes in at around $120-180 USD.

The only alternative way back to the mainland is with the boat to Almirante, followed by a bus or a shuttle south to David.

If you started in Panama City and followed our itinerary west - and you flight home is also from Panama City - then taking the plane from Bocas is going to be the quickest and easiest way to close the loop. Catching a morning or early afternoon flight also gives you a whole afternoon and evening to wander around Casco Viejo, chill out with some cocktails, have dinner at the fish market, or get everything sorted for a quick San Blas turnaround.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · In Panama City, Casa Magnolia is in a fantastic location, with affordable dorms and privates. It’s also got free luggage storage for guests, which super important for the San Blas islands.

Transport · Fly or take the boat/ferry back to Almirante, followed by a bus or shuttle.

One thing to know · Flights from Bocas del Toro touchdown at the small, central Albrook airport in Panama City, rather than Tocumen International Airport.

Tip · If you’re on a longer Latin America backpacking trip, after Bocas del Toro your next stop will likely be Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica - see this border crossing guide. If this is the case, it will be best to frontload your time in Panama City and San Blas.

Plan // 14 Things To Know Before You Visit Panama City

Day 23 | Explore / Hang Out in Panama City

After three weeks on the road, and with a couple of nights in Panama City still to come before flying home, this day was about enjoying the big city at our own pace.

Taking lots of photos, demolishing huge portions of ceviche at the Mercado de Marisco, visiting a couple of museums, and hanging out in hipster coffee shops to catch up on notes.

With Panama City also serving as the launchpad for the San Blas islands, the evening was spent paring our backpacks down to the bare essentials, withdrawing wads of US dollars, arranging luggage storage, and calling it early ahead of a 5am start.

For your own Panama itinerary though, we’d totally understand if you shaved off this extra day and pulled the San Blas forward.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · Casa Magnolia

Alternatives · Find all our picks in Casco Viejo and other neighbourhoods in Where To Stay in Panama City guide

Transport · On foot all day

Signature experience · The Mercado de Marisco (Fish Market)

One thing to know · Tap water in Panama City is treated, safe to drink, and generally reliable; we drank it exclusively throughout our stay and were absolutely fine. For the rest of our trip though, we depended on our trusty Water-to-Go filter bottles - which are just a great piece of travel kit.

We use and recommend the 750ml Active bottle: head to the Water-to-Go website and use ‘ADR15’ at checkout for 15% off, or buy one here on Amazon. 

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama City

Day 24-25| Island-Hopping in San Blas (Guna Yala)

The San Blas islands (Guna Yala) are really special, and you won’t find anywhere else like them in Central America.

A series of 300+ protected, autonomous islands off Panama’s Caribbean coast, they’re governed by the indigenous Guna Yala commnity and largely uninhabited.

For many travellers, if done right, hopping around this rustic paradise is the highlight of their entire Panama trip.

Logistically though, they reward pre-planning rather than spontaneity - and you also need to set aside budget for them.

We’ve gone into all the details of this in our main guide to visiting the San Blas , but the short story for your itinerary planning is as follows:

1. Panama City is the start + end point, and the islands are 3-4 hours from the capital by 4x4 and boat

2. This usually involves a departure at 5-6am - and you can only bring a small amount of luggage

3. Day trips are popular but not worth it - you should instead go overnight or do a multi-day island-hopping tour

4. The majority of travellers join tours operated by the Guna Yala, which takes care of all transport, accommodation, and food

5. Independent visits are possible - especially now the Guna Yala have several Airbnb listings - but there are caveats

6. You will get wet

After lots of research, we decided to do a 3D/2N island-hopping tour.

We highly recommend reading our main San Blas guide to get ahead of the game and avoid common mistakes with islands and tours.

The Essentials

Transport · The only way to reach the San Blas is with the Guna Yala operated fleet of 4x4s from Panama City and the boats from Carti. This is included in the cost of tours, but you’ll have to pay for it in addition to your accommodation if travelling independently

Signature experience · Ever stayed in a thatch hut on a tiny uninhabited tropical island? Yeah, that’s the whole vibe

How many days · We strongly recommend against day trips, and you should try to spend at least one night out there - we spent two nights which was kind of perfect

One thing to know · If you’re continuing down to Colmbia, then you’ll likely take the infamous boat or catamaran. This also departs from Panama City, visits the San Blas for a few days, then continues in the open sea to arrive in either Capurgana or Cartegena on the country’s northern coast

Plan // How To Get To The San Blas Islands from Panama City + Our Guide To Visiting The San Blas

Day 26 | San Blas > Panama City

The morning was spent swimming in the blue and visiting a few more islands, and our group left the San Blas in the afternoon.

We arrived back in Panama City at about 7pm, had a stiff drink, picked up our bags from Casa Magnolia, then checked into the fancy Airbnb apartment we’d booked for our final few days.

That evening’s plans only revolved around proper showers, pasta, and crap telly.

Day 27 - 28 | The Panama City Highlights & The Canal

If you’ve read all of this itinerary in one-sitting, then we salute you (go pop the kettle on though as there’s still some juicy stuff to come).

You may also be questioning why we dipped in and out of Panama City so much.

Well, the important takeaway is that we really really wanted to go beyond the obvious of the capital and give our readers a manual to enjoy Panama City, rather than to view it as just an arrival point and place to pass through before or after the San Blas.

We’re confident that we were successful in that mission.

Our final two days saw us cycle the length of the Cinta Costera & Amador Causeway, take in the foundation story of Panama Viejo, peruse modern art at MAC Panamá, see more sloths than we’ve ever seen anywhere else in a single day, get our fill of ceviche again, finally make it out to the Panama Canal, and toast the end of the trip with rooftop tacos and beers looking out at the skyscrapers twinkling.

Find out where to find the sloths and everything else in our full guide to Panama City.

The Essentials

Where we stayed · The Airbnb apartment in Casco Viejo

Alternatives · Find them all in Where To Stay in Panama City

Transport · A few Ubers are essential in the city if you want to cover everything in a couple of days

Signature experience · Cycling along the causeway totally changed our perspective on Panama City, but those sloth sightings were something else

How many days · We think you need two full days in Panama City - you just need to work out how to spread these across your trip and with the San Blas logistics

One thing to know · Despite being an engineering miracle and the most famous attraction in the country, the experience of visiting the Panama Canal is a bit of a bizarre one. It’s possibly to do it independently without a tour (like we did), but any enthusiasts should consider this popular full-day ocean to ocean boat trip or pairing it with a wildlife-spotting boat on Gatun Lake

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama City + How To Visit The Panama Canal

Day Twenty Nine| Fly Home

Yep, that was a long trip - absolutely fantastic though, and it complete changed our view on Panama as a travel destination.

Here at Along Dusty Roads, we’d pick it over Costa Rica.

Keep scrolling for final bits of advice and the curated two-week version of this Panama itinerary.

Adapting This Panama Itinerary for Shorter Trips

So, how can you condense our month down to a meaningful two weeks in Panama?

Whilst you won’t be able to explore all that Panama has to offer on a two-week trip, the shape and size of the country makes it amenable to covering quite a bit at a reasonable pace.

Based solely on our experiences and subjective perspective, we’d suggest the following as a rough start point:

• 2 days | El Valle

• 2 days | Santa Catalina

• 2 days | Boquete

• 3 days | Bocas del Toro

• 1 day | Panama City

• 2 days | San Blas

• 1 day | Panama City

The above comes to thirteen full days, and you can apportion the extra day wherever you want to stay longer! The Azuero Peninsula is cut solely because of the time available and the logistics of getting to / from there.

Note, some of you may prefer to put the Panama City and San Blas portion at the start - whatever works best for you!

Key Planning Questions & Context

Before you plan your own Panama itinerary, there are a few key questions you need to ask yourself:

· As most standalone trips will begin and end in Panama City, you need to work out if you want to visit it at the beginning or the end.

· This decision also factors into when you can visit the San Blas islands and how many days you have on them.

· How you pair up Panama City and San Blas is critical to your itinerary and route.

· A key timesaver is the flight between Panama City and Bocas del Toro - but don't leave booking it until last minute.

· How much hiking do you want to do vs. beach time. If hiking is important, then El Valle and Boquete need to be on your list, but not both if you want more time on the islands and beaches.

· Do you want to visit both Bocas del Toro and San Blas? Most will (and should), and you’ll end up with FOMO if you do one over the other. These Panamanian archipelagos are very distinct in terms of culture and travel experience, so it's actually unfair to just view them as direct competitors (though many understandably do). Rule of thumb: the San Blas is most people's highlight in Panama, whilst Bocas del Toro can disappoint.

· As mentioned, we needed a definitive answer between Santa Catalina and Playa Venao. Today, we can quite comfortably put Santa Catalina forward as the place that was most wedded to our travel style. For certain trips - vacations, those wanting more modern amenities and facilities, less rustic, more of a party vibe - then Venao will be your preference.

Arriving from Costa Rica or Colombia?

If you’re on a backpacking trip in Latin America, then you’re more likely to arrive in Panama from Costa Rica or Colombia.

· For Central America backpackers working their way down, your most likely start point is going be crossing land border with Costa Rica. Journeys for this start in Puerto Viejo, and your first stop is likely going to be Bocas del Toro. However, if you don’t want to visit the archipelago, you’ll like continue south to Lost + Found Hostel, David, or Boquete.

Your overland Panama itinerary will then likely be Bocas del Toro > Boquete > Santa Catalina > El Valle > Panama City > San Blas.

However, those short on time or skipping through may just fly straight from Bocas del Toro to Panama City.

·Backpackers coming north from Colombia have to avoid the Darien Gap, and can choose to fly up to Panama, take the quick boat from Capurgana, or arrive via the adventurous, multi-day island-hopping boats from either Cartagena or Capurgana. Those boat rides are a rite of passage for most, as well as a logistical problem-solver, and they also allow you to tick-off the San Blas en-route.

Importantly, those boats from Colombia always mean your first proper stop will be in Panama City. From there, you can either follow our itinerary west, fly to Bocas del Toro, or do whatever else takes your fancy.

Going To Colombia After Panama?

Lastly, your Panama itinerary may ultimately be shaped by whether you’re pairing the country with Colombia - or your Latin American backpacking adventure is continuing south after Panama.

In that case, most of you will opt to take the boats to Cartagena or Capuragana. Tours are necessary for these and include the San Blas on the way, but journeys begin in Panama City.

An alternative option involves basically skipping all the best things to do in Panama by flying straight from Bocas del Toro to the capital, then taking the boat.

Lastly, if you don’t fancy those boats, then you can also fly down to Colombia from David or Panama City. Alternatively, do what we did back in 2015, when we skipped the San Blas and independently took the boat from Turbo over to Capurgana.

Our Essential Panama Guides

11 Wonderful Things to Do in Panama

Driving in Panama (and Car Rental Tips)| The Essentials

Our Guide to Visiting the San Blas Islands

Travel More in Panama

Deciding where to stay in Panama City can start out as a daunting task.

The city doesn’t revolve around a single, natural centre; instead, several distinct neighbourhoods stretch along the Pacific coast, each offering a different experience of the Panamanian capital.

Some areas place you right in the historic core, with cafés, churches, and evening plans close at hand. Others are built around the waterfront or modern convenience, from which the city is experienced in shorter bursts between taxi rides.

The distances between these neighbourhoods aren’t huge, but traffic, heat, and timing matter far more than Google Maps may suggest.

To help you decide, our guide looks at the five main areas travellers base themselves in across the city, not in terms of what’s ‘best’, but in how they actually work i.e. what it’s like to stay there for a few days, what kind of trip it suits, and the trade-offs to factor in.

For each area, we’ve also included a selection of our hand-picked hotel, hostel and apartment picks, with options for solo travellers, couples, groups, and families across a range of budgets.

We’re certain you’ll find something to suit your travel style in our curated guide on Where to Stay in Panama City, Panama.

Important to Know | There are literally thousands of Airbnbs and apartments in Panama City, and - depending upon the area - many have the tendency to look very, very similar! For this reason, our selections for each location are only those with exceptional reviews, facilities, and something we’d book ourselves.

It’s also worth noting that January is peak travel season in Panama, when prices rise sharply. Booking well in advance is essential if you’re travelling then, especially if you hope to stay within Casco Viejo. Any price or affordability references in this guide refers to the cost outwith January!

In a Hurry?

This is a very in-depth article, and we’re certain you’ll find the perfect place to stay in Panama City if you make it to the end. However, we also appreciate that some of you reading this may just want a quick recommendation for each particular area

Casco Viejo

Hostel / Magnolia Inn | Viajero Hostel

Hotel / Amarla Boutique Hotel | American Trade Hotel

Airbnb / The Grand Penthouse | Alluring One-Bed

Avenida Balboa & Marbella

Hostel / El Machico Hostel

Hotel / Waldorf Astoria

Airbnb / Unique Luxury Loft | Twin Suite

Obarrio

Hotel / Bristol Panama

Airbnb / Cozy Condo in the Heart of PTY | Stylish Apartment in Heart of Obarrio

El Cangrejo

Hostel / Panama House B&B

Hotel / Gran Evenia Panamá Hotel

Airbnb / Private Apartment | Good Karma

Punta Paitilla & Punta Pacífica

Hostel / Hostal Casa Areka

Hotel / JW Marriott Panama

Airbnb / Urban Luxury in the Clouds | Cozy Condo

Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo is Panama City’s historic heart and, for most visitors, the place they spend the bulk of their time. Compact and walkable, it’s made up of stone churches, small plazas, pastel façades, and narrow streets that feel far removed from the glass towers across the bay.

This is the most beautiful area of the city, and where most people want to be based.

It’s also a neighbourhood that has changed dramatically over the last decade or so, and most streets are now lined with grand hotels, fancy restaurants, and rooftop bars aimed squarely at visitors and wealthy locals. Some restorations have been handled with care, others feel closer to stylised replicas, prioritising atmosphere over fidelity.

Yet some of the old Casco Viejo remains: those same streets abut another with abandoned façades, visibly decaying homes, or families still living in buildings yet to be redeveloped. Part of what makes this area so compelling - and occasionally uncomfortable - is how little of this contrast has been reconciled. The shift happens block by block; it’s abrupt, and often jarring.

What makes Casco Viejo compelling - and occasionally uncomfortable - is how little of this contrast has been reconciled. One street is lined with boutique hotels and curated terraces; the next with abandoned façades, visibly decaying homes, or families still living in buildings yet to be redeveloped. The shift happens block by block, is abrupt, and often jarring.

The Casco Viejo Essentials

Cost & Who Stays Here // Accommodation in Casco Viejo generally sits at the upper end of the city’s price range, particularly for well-located boutique hotels in restored buildings. It attracts first-time visitors, short-stay travellers, and anyone prioritising atmosphere and walkability. Budget options still exist but are now more limited and get booked up quickly.

Nearby // Historic churches, plazas, and small museums, Panama Canal Museum, Mercado de Mariscos and waterfront

Pros // Walkable and architecturally rich, strong concentration of cafés, bars, and restaurants, easy to enjoy without relying on transport. Great for short stays.

Cons // Busy and noisy, especially in the evenings, higher accommodation prices, a more curated touristic version of the city. Transport links sometimes a challenge.

Hotels

American Trade Hotel | Housed in a grand neoclassical building that has lived several lives before becoming a hotel, American Trade still carries a sense of scale that’s rare in Casco, with high ceilings, heavy doors, and generously sized rooms. Interiors lean into mid-century lines and Latin American modernism, with enough restraint that the details don’t fight for attention. The rooftop pool, small but well placed, looks out across Casco and the bay beyond. A favourite of many visitors.

Hotel La Compañía | Dating back to 1688, Hotel La Compañía occupies an entire block in Casco Viejo and unfolds across three distinct wings - Spanish Colonial, French Colonial, and American Beaux-Arts - each treated as its own architectural chapter rather than smoothed into one. Interiors are unapologetically grand, with stone walls, heavy beams, moulded ceilings, and a deliberate sense of drama as you move between spaces. Five restaurants and multiple bars are spread across the building, many opening onto a large interior courtyard that anchors the hotel at its centre.

Sofitel Legend | Occupying the former Club Unión de Panamá, a century-old Spanish Colonial building on the historic waterfront, Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo is one of the few hotels in the district with genuine sea-facing scale. Interiors pair Sofitel’s restrained French polish with restored architectural bones, and many rooms look directly out over the Pacific rather than into the old streets. A full spa, large fitness centre, multiple restaurants and bars - including a rooftop and a café specialising in proper pastries - give it a breadth that’s rare in Casco.

Amarla Boutique Hotel* | This adults-only hotel occupies a beautifully restored colonial home, where every corner feels shaped by artisans and local crafts rather than corporate design. With just eight individually decorated rooms, original photography and handcrafted furniture are woven into the spaces in a way that feels deliberate and intimate, from carefully chosen textiles to small antique touches. Above it all, a rooftop terrace with a jacuzzi looks out over cathedral spires and Panama Bay, while a quiet restaurant and attentive service make it easy to lose track of time within its walls. This is our pick!

Las Clementinas | Set inside a restored early-20th-century building, Las Clementinas was designed as suites rather than hotel rooms, which shows immediately in the proportions and layout. Interiors are clean and modern, with kitchens, living space, and just enough original detail left exposed to anchor it in Casco’s past. It feels closer to an apartment house than a hotel, especially in the quieter hours. Downstairs is their restaurant, Mahalo, where we had a genuinely excellent brunch!

Central Hotel | First opened in 1874, Central was one of the original grand hotels of the old city, and its restoration leans heavily on that lineage rather than reinvention. The building retains its classic layout and restrained elegance, airing whitewashed interiors and restrained detailing with modern finishes that keep the rooms feeling light and composed rather than ornate. A rooftop pool, spa, bar spaces, and a long-standing Argentinian restaurant round out the experience, reinforcing Central’s role as a proper, full-service hotel rather than a decorative boutique stay.

Tantalo is most famous for its rooftop bar - somewhere the night rarely ends before 3am, but the cocktails are fairly average - but it’s also a popular hotel in the centre of Casco Viejo. If you plan to be up on that rooftop most nights (or partying elsewhere), this would be a great shout but not a place for those that appreciate an early night.

Airbnbs

Before we get on with our selections, it’s important to note that many of the apartments in Casco Viejo, whilst beautiful, all have a tendency to look quite familiar and offer a very similar vibe - usually due to the fact that many hosts own all or several apartments in the same building.

Alluring One-Bed* | We stayed in this one-bedroom apartment at the end of our month in Panama and were really happy with our choice. It was definitely a property at the more affordable end of the price bracket, but was still brand new, furnished to a super high standard (would absolutely be considered more luxurious if elsewhere in Central America), had an excellent kitchen, a fabulous bathroom that was ideal after a few rustic days in the San Blas islands and well-located.

The same host also has this really beautiful two-bedroom overlooking Plaza Herrera (we love the tiles!).

The Grand Penthouse | This stylish one-bedroom penthouse features an eclectic modern design, and is perfect for those who appreciate high-end finishes and unique, colourful decor. Also has access to a shared rooftop with BBQ area, plunge pool and sunbathing area.

Also available on Booking.com - look there for all listings in the building (they have quite a few)

Cozy Apartment | The use of natural wood and choice of tiles give this contemporary apartment a warmer feel than many others in Casco Viejo, plus it’s gorgeous and has excellent reviews.

Gorgeous Flat | This cute and stylish studio has been recently renovated, and combines modern comfort with classic charm inside a beautiful colonial building. Ideal for a couple.

Bright & Cosy Loft | We really like this one-bedroom apartment. It’s light and bright, with stylish accents and original features like exposed bricks and high ceilings.

Many apartments in this part of Panama City have a balcony and/or access to a shared rooftop, but few have a private terrace. Two wonderful exceptions are the super spacious one-bedroom Casa Bandera and this super comfortable two-bedroom that’s set over three floors and even has a hot tub!

There are a surprisingly large number of properties with access to shared pool in the centre of Casco Viejo, so if this is something you’d appreciate in your apartment, take a look at Casa Saena, Iconic Double Apartment, Casa Abes and Casa Arias.

Other good options that caught our eye include Luxury Mid-Century Apartment, Old Town View, Escape to the Heart of Casco, Two-Bed With Splash Pool, Amazing Loft, Panama 15, Fancy Apartment, Modern Apartment, Unique & Charming Loft,

It’s difficult to find any properties in what we would describe as the ‘budget end’ of the spectrum, but these two stylish one-bedroom apartments (one and two) are great value and have excellent ratings. (Estrella is very budget friendly, but whilst it has very good reviews, it’s small so would only really suit those that really want an Airbnb in Casco Viejo but don’t mind compromising on size).

Travelling with a group of friends and looking for something that little bit special - and a private rooftop pool? You have to take a look at the incredible Old Tower Penthouse. Or if you need even more space, don’t miss Casa Vidal, a full colonial property that has been beautifully restored, the stunning Unique Historic House or the five-bedroom penthouse, Casa Diez.

As we mention in our guide to ‘Driving in Panama’, having a car whilst you explore Panama City is far from ideal. If you really have no choice, this apartment would be a great option as it comes with secure and private parking.

Hostels

Magnolia Inn* | Looking for somewhere affordable but comfortable for a couple of nights before we went to San Blas, we settled on this hotel-hostel within a centuries-old stone building. Accommodation is uncomplicated and unfussy, with shared and private rooms spread across the old structure and it was a good option for a central location at an affordable price point. It’s also got a decent kitchen and you can leave your luggage with them whilst you head to the islands.

If you’re looking for a good private double though, it’s a good idea to book early.

Viajero Hostel | A fantastic hostel with a modern, industrial feel, with large, open communal areas and simple interiors that still carry a bit of style rather than bare-bones practicality. The rooftop is the real draw - a generous pool overlooking the city paired with a relaxed bar area and a restaurant that sells excellent Mexican food - while private rooms and dorms are simple but well finished, sitting comfortably alongside the hostel’s social spaces rather than feeling like an afterthought.

Some backpackers will much prefer it to Magnolia due to the rooftop and pool access.

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama City

Avenida Balboa & Marbella

This part of Panama City runs along the bay and feels distinctly affluent. Avenida Balboa traces the waterfront itself, while Marbella sits just inland within the wider Bella Vista area, sharing the same building stock, price bracket, and pace of life.

Together, they form one of the city’s most comfortable - and costly - places to stay.

The architecture here sets the tone. Instead of low-rise streets or historic façades of Casco Viejo, you’ll find modern apartment towers, international banks, embassies, and large hotels, many with open views across Panama Bay. The Cinta Costera runs alongside Avenida Balboa, giving easy access to the water and space to walk or jog, while the streets behind feel quieter and more residential, particularly in Marbella itself.

You’re close to the touristic centre - Casco Viejo is a short taxi ride away - but the day-to-day experience is calmer and more contained. Marbella, in particular, is popular with long-term expats and wealthier Panamanians, drawn by the sense of order, the concentration of services, and the ability to live close to the bay without the noise or crowds of the historic quarter.

Shopping and dining are easy to come by, whether that’s international brands, casinos, or restaurants built into malls and hotel complexes. And whilst nightlife exists, prices are noticeably higher. Anyone looking for a busier night usually ends up heading elsewhere.

The Avenida Balboa & Marbella Essentials

Cost & Who Stays Here // Accommodation along Avenida Balboa and in Marbella sits firmly in the upper mid to luxury range, with prices rising quickly for newer towers and direct bay views. Marbella often offers slightly better value than properties directly on the waterfront, but it remains one of the city’s pricier bases. Expect a mix of large hotels, serviced apartments, and high-end residences rather than budget stays.

There are also very few hotels along Avenida Balboa, with the majority focussed in Marbella. Additionally, whilst there are actually a number of hostels in the area, there are few - if any - affordable hotel options.

Nearby // Cinta Costera, Casco Viejo & Mercado de Mariscos

Pros // Immediate access to the waterfront, large, full-service hotels with consistent standards, easy taxi connections across the city

Cons // Busy, traffic-led streets away from the bay, limited connection to the city’s historic fabric

Hotels

This is where you’ll find the majority of the city’s fancier chain hotels - like W Panama, Le Meridien, Intercontinental Miramar and Hilton - and whilst they all have good reviews, there’s a standout option if you’re looking for a full-service luxury hotel in Marbella:

Waldorf Astoria* | One of Panama City’s more overtly refined stays, the Waldorf Astoria rises in a contemporary tower with bright interiors shaped by Art Deco cues and a restrained white-and-gold palette. Spacious rooms, a serious spa, and several established dining and bar spaces - including Peacock Alley and a striking seventh-floor pool terrace - give it the feel of a classic, full-service luxury hotel rather than a boutique statement.

Airbnbs

As mentioned above, this isn’t a particularly budget friendly area to stay, but if you’re seeking something affordable, Coastal Infinity Pool is our top pick. Other good options with prices around $135 USD a night in February are BrisaMarina, this one and this one.

Unique Luxury Loft* | This is not just our three-bedroom pick, it’s one of our top choices for this area more generally - the aesthetics are just glorious! Set over three floors, it’s got tons of space, a cool contemporary design, full of light and has incredible facilities, including a pool, state-of-the-art gym, relaxing spa, and three excellent restaurants.

Many of the best apartments in this particular area are actually located within the same building - the Yoo Panama, designed by Philippe Starck. We also love this one-bedroom apartment. Decorated and furnished to a high standard, it’s been kitted out really well to feel like a home rather than a temporary base.

But if you’re after a two-bedroom property, you need check out this truly gorgeous Twin Suite. Leaning much more into contemporary, considered and calm styling than many others in this area, it’s full of natural elements, and has a gorgeous gorgeous kitchen!

Other two-bedrooms to take a look at are Luxurious & Modern, Ocean Views, Luxury Condo, Modern and Luxurious Oceanfront Apartment and Great Studio.

Need four bedrooms? Boutique Apartment is a good option.

Prefer an aparthotel? Take a look at Marriott Executive Apartments.

Hostels

El Machico Hostel | This recently refurbished hostel offers a couple of private rooms and lots of dorm beds (with a sort of pod-like set up). A nice sociable atmosphere - but not a party hostel - it has a decent pool area, a guest kitchen and a daily free pancake breakfast. A super popular option, not just in this area but Panama City more generally.

Bodhi Panama City | Part of a Panama-wide chain, they offers privates and doubles just a few minutes walk from the Cinta Costera. Large garden with pool, communal areas to chill and a good guest kitchen. It’s a decent option but reviews note that it gets super quiet during low season (something to bear in mind if you’re a solo traveller).

Note that both these hostels are at the Marbella end of Avenida Balboa, so would both require taxis to get to Casco Viejo.

Panama Hat Hostel is a decent option if you don’t mind a simple hostel in order to save a few dollars.

Plan // 14 Essential Panama City Travel Tips

Obarrio

Obarrio sits at the centre of Panama City’s financial district, defined by office towers, embassies, hotels, and some of the city’s main commercial streets, including Calle 50 and Avenida Samuel Lewis.

It’s a dense, vertical part of the city, busy throughout the day, centred on offices, shops, and the steady churn of traffic, not visitor attractions.

By staying here you’re well placed for getting across the city, with the Metro running through the neighbourhood and taxis easy to come by at almost any hour. Most people base themselves here knowing they’ll spend their days elsewhere - in Casco Viejo, along the waterfront, or taking day trips to the Canal - and return in the evening to somewhere comfortable and central.

Obarrio doesn’t offer much in the way of wandering or lingering, but it compensates with range. Restaurants are plentiful and varied, shopping is close at hand, and amongst the skyscrapers are some genuinely impressive architectural feats (like the iconic F&F Tower).

It’s busy, functional, and unapologetically ‘big city’ vibes.

The Obarrio Essentials

Cost & Who Stays Here // It’s popular with business travellers, professionals, long-stay visitors, and travellers who value convenience and connectivity over atmosphere. Whilst many accommodation options in Obarrio fall into a more luxurious category, there are actually quite a large number of affordable options too, especially when it comes to Airbnbs (it’s not uncommon to find good apartments costing less than $100 a night even in the relatively high season) - even a number of hotels are priced in the lower to mid-range bracket.

Nearby // Calle 50 and Avenida Samuel Lewis, Metro stations connecting to Albrook and the wider city, MoMA Panama and major shopping areas

Pros // One of the city’s most central locations, easy transport connections, wide choice of restaurants and hotels, some of Panama City’s most stylish apartments (outside of Casco Viejo anyway). Great if you’ve ever wanted to stay in a skyscraper!

Cons // Busy and traffic-heavy during the day, little neighbourhood life outside work and dining, not especially appealing for slow exploration

Hotels

Bristol Panama | More of an old-school five-star hotel with a restrained, almost residential feel, where rooms are genuinely spacious and furnished with weightier, more traditional pieces rather than contemporary gloss. The bar is one of the hotel’s real highlights - dark, elegant, and quietly atmospheric - while upstairs a compact pool and spa sit well away from the noise, designed more for switching off than being seen.

Sortis Hotel, Spa & Casino | A large, modern hotel that leans unapologetically into scale, with spacious rooms, wide corridors, and expansive views over the city. It’s officially rated as a five-star property, though in reality it sits a notch below that level - something that’s reflected in the pricing, with double rooms often surprisingly affordable for the amount of space you get. The casino is a core part of the experience (if you love Vegas, this is an excellent pick!), backed up by a substantial spa, several restaurants and bars, and a resort-style pool area that keeps the hotel busy at almost any hour.

If you’re looking for a comfortable mid-range hotel which does exactly what it says on the tin and won’t break the bank, you should absolutely consider Holiday Inn Panama Distrito Financiero and Global Hotel Panama.

The fantastically popular Nomada Republic Hotel is one for those on a budget that don’t mind sacrificing space for a good deal.

Airbnbs

This particular area has a HUGE number of apartments to rent, from small bolt-holes to palatial three-beds. This means that if any of the properties we list below are not available, there will likely still be plenty more to choose from.

It’s rare for us to so enthusiastically recommend a place with so few reviews, but we LOVE Cozy Condo in the Heart of PTY*. It’s super popular, the reviews it does have are excellent and the design is just so us - contemporary and considered with just enough extra touches to make it feel like somewhere you’d like to live (rather than just another generic airbnb). Also has all the shared amenities that are standard in these high rises.

Our second favourite two-bedroom is Great Studio. It’s more luxurious than above, with loads of space, impeccable styling, and whilst at a higher price point, a really good option.

Other two-beds that caught our eye are La Maison de Dave (yes, that’s really what it’s called) and Comfort and Perfect Location.

Stylish Apartment in Heart of Obarrio | This is our top recommendation for a one-bedroom. It’s of an excellent size, decorated and furnished to a really high-standard, has a really great kitchen that’s been kitted out with all sorts of appliances and has fantastic reviews.

Fiore Collection | This small but perfectly formed one-bedroom is wonderfully designed and full of light, but the real reason we’re recommending it is the free on-site parking - if you’re doing a road trip, this is absolutely one to check out!

Cozy One Bedroom and Condo Centrico are other firm favourites.

Nice Apartment | This budget-friendly, small one-bedroom apartment is ideal for a solo travellers or couple of that plan to be out exploring for most of the day and just want somewhere functional and modern to return to in the evenings - even has access to a rooftop pool!

If affordable is what you’re looking for, you also have to check out Design House, the stylish Modern City Escape, Modern and Cozy Central Apartment, Where I’m Happy in Panama City, and Central and Safe.

Alternatively, if you’d prefer a two-bedroom, this highly-rated option is also exceptionally good value.

If you need more space, we have two three-bedroom top picks in this area: Exclusive Three Bed Condo and Cosy Apartment With Seaview.

Hostels

No standout hostels in this area. Loco Coco Loco has a decent rating, but it’s only really worth considering if you particularly want to be in this area or are on a tight budget (they have some of the cheapest privates).

Plan // How To Visit The Panama Canal from Panama City

El Cangrejo

If you don’t fancy the tourist vibes of Casco Viejo nor the skyscrapers that dominate much of the city, the residential area of El Cangrejo may be perfect for you.

Apartment blocks and leafy streets give it a lived-in feel during the day, but by evening the focus shifts towards food and going out, particularly along Vía Argentina, which fills with people heading for dinner, drinks, or somewhere chilled to hang out.

Staying here means your evenings are likely to stay local. There’s enough happening within a few blocks that you don’t need to plan nights out in advance or default to Casco Viejo for atmosphere. Bars and restaurants are casual, often crowded, and skew younger later in the evening, with a mix of locals, long-term visitors, and travellers who want somewhere sociable without feeling embedded in a tourist zone.

During the day, the neighbourhood is quieter and more routine-driven.

It’s important to note that El Cangrejo is quite far away from many of the best things to do in Panama City, and therefore most sightseeing still involves taxis towards the historic centre or the waterfront. With that said however, it works well as a place to come back to, especially if you like having options nearby once the day winds down and the more residential vibe means that the accommodation options are infinitely more affordable than elsewhere.

The El Cangrejo Essentials

Cost & Who Stays Here // It remains one of the better-value areas in central Panama City. Accommodation is largely budget to mid-range, with prices lower than Casco Viejo, Avenida Balboa, or Punta Pacífica. It attracts a mix of students, young professionals, long-stay travellers, and Panamanians, which keeps the area feeling current without tipping into anything too polished or exclusive.

Note that there are no hostels in this area.

Nearby // Vía Argentina, metro stations connecting to Albrook and the wider city

Pros // One of the city’s stronger areas for eating and going out, sociable atmosphere without heavy tourism, good value accommodation

Cons // Regular taxi use for major sights, can be noisy around Vía Argentina at night - not ideal for shorter stays

Hotels

Some of the city’s cheapest hotels are located in this area - Hotel Coral Suites and Hotel Principe both really good ratings and offer doubles for less per night than many hostels but our number one budget-friendly pick is Riande Urban Hotel - especially given its pool area.

The popular Novotel and Best Western Plus provide their standard mid-range offering.

Gran Evenia Panamá Hotel | This is our top hotel pick in El Cangrejo. The rooms are large and of a more funky style than the chain offerings (in a good way), and it’s also got a decent gym, a glorious rooftop pool and an on-site restaurant serving an international menu. It’s definitely not a 5* hotel - as the listing would suggest - but the reasonable prices reflect this.

Airbnbs

We haven’t got a favourite when it comes to three-bedroom apartments, but two to take a look at if you need this much space are Modernity and Comfort in the City and Via Argentina.

There are a number of small one bedroom / studio apartments available in this area which would be ideal for a solo traveller or young couple seeking a base. This option is probably our favourite, but the host actually has several similar properties.

Located in the brand new ‘Van Gogh’ building, Good Karma, a stylish two-bedroom apartment offers not just a modern, considered space to live but a host of on-site shared facilities like a fully equipped gym, yoga deck, rooftop terrace & pool, indoor kids playground and co-working space.

Other two-bedrooms that caught our eye include Unique Apartment (we particularly like this one), Modern, Spacious, Comfortable & Central Apartment and Your Perfect Getaway.

Plan // 11 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama

Punta Paitilla & Punta Pacífica

The Punta Pacífica and Punta Paitilla neighbourhoods occupy a small peninsula that pushes out into Panama Bay, and they feel physically set apart from much of the rest of the city. High-rise residential towers dominate the skyline, many of them housing apartments priced well beyond what most Panamanians could ever realistically afford, and the area’s character is shaped accordingly.

Staying here places you firmly in Panama City’s most affluent neighbourhood. Life revolves around modern conveniences: shopping centres, apartment complexes, and enclosed bars and restaurants tucked into the base of towers. The waterfront setting brings open views across the bay, but most time is spent indoors or moving between destinations by taxi, rather than lingering outside.

This is an area built around comfort and security, and the presence of private schools, embassies, and the nearby Johns Hopkins Hospital gives it a distinctly international feel.

You’ll find plenty of cocktail bars, casinos, and smart restaurants - including venues attached to hotels and malls - but note that nightlife is muted compared with El Cangrejo or Casco Viejo.

The Punta Pacifica & Punta Paitilla Essentials

Cost & Who Stays Here // Accommodation in Punta Pacífica sits firmly in the upper-mid to luxury bracket, whether you’re booking a hotel or an apartment. Prices reflect the area’s exclusivity, bayfront position, and infrastructure, and budget options are scarce. This is a good fit if you’re prioritising space, modernity, and privacy over neighbourhood character.

Nearby // Multiplaza Mall, Ocean Sun Casino, ferry connections towards the Pearl Islands (short taxi ride)

Pros // One of the city’s most upscale areas, modern accommodation with bay views, calm and secure environment

Cons // Expensive, limited sense of everyday city life, quite a small supply of vacation rentals - lots of Ubers required

Hotels

JW Marriott Panama | Rising 70 storeys above Panama Bay - and still the tallest building in Central America - the JW Marriott is a statement stay, operating on a scale that feels closer to a vertical resort than a city hotel. Rooms are notably large and designed around the view, with wide balconies overlooking the bay or skyline, while the standout is the vast pool deck backed up by multiple restaurants, a sizeable spa and gym, and enough on-site dining and nightlife that many guests rarely feel the need to leave.

Residence Inn by Marriott is the company’s 3* offering located nearby.

A room only, sort-of hotel set-up, the highly-rated Eshel Suites is pretty new and offers modern rooms in a good location. The lack of facilities means that price per night is exceptionally good value, not just for this area, but Panama City more generally.

Airbnbs

Urban Luxury in the Clouds | Our two-bedroom pick set high above the city, it pairs expansive skyline views with a clean, contemporary interior that feels calm rather than showy. The layout is open and well proportioned, with two en-suite bedrooms and shared living space designed to work comfortably for four. You’ll also have access to a pool, gym, sky lounge, yoga area, and shared outdoor spaces.

One-bedrooms are pretty rare in this area - this one is probably the best of the limited number available - so we’d actually recommend this Cozy Condo instead. It’s beautiful inside, and the second bedroom is quite small with a sofa bed so would suit those that don’t actually need that much space.

Really want to be in Punta Patilla but don’t have a high-budget? If you don’t mind a cold shower, this modern little corner apartment is a great option.

We don’t love the decor of this three-bedroom apartment but it’s super popular, has excellent reviews and is really affordable for the area. Alternatively, if you’re seeking a little more luxury, you have to check out this beautiful apartment, located in the Wanderers by Yoo building or Luxury In The City and By The Sea, a serviced three-bedroom apartment that is downright beautiful.

Finding an entire house to rent in Panama City is pretty rare, so if you’re hoping for a little more space, this four bedroom large private residence should be on your radar.

Hostels

Hostal Casa Areka | The only hostel in this area, we’re actually fairly certain we randomly stayed here during our first visit to the cities many years ago! Super chilled, recent guests note that it’s not the most sociable hostel but it’s got a pleasant little pool area, a decent guest kitchen, does a free pancake breakfast and is pretty affordable by Panama City standards. A decent option for a stopover.

Travel Better in Panama

Guatemala is our favourite country to travel in Central America - and it could easily become yours too.

Much safer than the news stories represent, much prettier than pictures do justice, and much more storied and varied than some assume, with landscapes, a thriving indigenous culture, and experiences that reward those willing to look beyond the obvious.

There’s something for every sort of traveller: nature lovers, adventure-seekers, history enthusiasts, spiritual wanderers, slow travel backpackers, surfers, avid hikers, photographers, coffee wankers, language leaners, and cultural seekers who want to connect with the lives behind the landscapes.

If you’re the sort of person that identifies with a few of those travel styles, then Guatemala is probably going to be a wonderful fit.

Between three trips for us (four in Emily’s case), we’ve covered the west and east coasts, walked miles of cobblestone colonial streets, hiked through misty highlands, spent days in cramped chicken buses, got vertigo atop a Mayan jungle ruin, and climbed a myriad of its many, many volcanoes - and in this post we want to share both the unmissables and our personal highlights to help you find your own somewhere in this endlessly surprising country.

This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Guatemala.

p.s. remember to pack your hiking boots if you want to do it right.

The Best Things to Do in Guatemala

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Bask In The Beauty of Antigua

The jewel in Guatemala's crown, there are few places more beautiful in the Americas.

However, Antigua shouldn’t really still exist.

Founded in the dip of a lush valley in 1543, surrounded by hills and a trio of volcanoes, the compact city was the seat of Spanish colonial power in Central America for two centuries, with dozens of grand religious buildings constructed to demonstrate the influence of both the crown and the Catholic Church.

Devastating earthquakes in 1717 and 1773 left much of it in rubble and ruin, with the capital being located to present-day Guatemala City.

The abandonment was a silver lining though, with many hauntingly captivatingly ruins today lining slippery volcanic cobblestone streets of a place that ticks all the boxes of a Central American colonial city: think secret courtyards behind thick mahogany doors, low-slung buildings splashed in shades of custard yellow and burgundy red, markets, museums, rooftop bars, language schools, lots of historical intrigue, and a very lively traveller scene.

It’s no surprise that it’s designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Know | On standalone Guatemalan trips, Antigua is likely to be your first proper stop in the country. It’s under an hour from Guatemala City - which is home to the airport - but most don’t hang around in the capital. We’ve shared your transport options in this ‘routes’ post: How To Get From Guatemala City Airport to Antigua

Book | This highly-rated traditional cooking class and market tour is a great activity to plan around, whilst a tour is necessary to scale Pacaya Volcano - we did this one

Budget | Due to a couple of popular day trips from Antigua, we think you should factor in a minimum of three nights to make the most of the city - and slow Central America backpackers should prepare for that fact that it’s incredibly easy to get stuck here for longer than you intend (it’s happened to us twice!).

Tip | The city is world famous for its huge Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week), which dress the buildings in purple and take over the streets for a week. Thousands of people come here specifically for the celebration- which usually falls around late March or early to mid-April - and it's a very religious, sombre affair. It’s important to anticipate this in your itinerary planning - whether to make sure you attend or avoid - as prices spike and availability plummets.

Stay | Our hostel pick is Somos, but Good Hotel is an incredible boutique hotel. Antigua also has some fantastic Airbnbs like Villa Carmen Elisa and Casa-Museo de 1926.

Plan // 17 Wonderful Things to Do in Antigua

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Camp Overnight on Acatenango Volcano

Searching for a moment that reminds you exactly why you're the type of person who takes their vacation allowance to go on adventures, rather than just laze by a pool?

Or simply want to make Brian back at the office super jealous?

Then let us introduce you to Acatenango Volcano.

As we’ve mentioned, there are more volcanoes than you can shake a hiking stick at in Guatemala, and they define itineraries as well as landscapes: if you’re going to the country and don’t go up one, then there’s an argument that you haven’t properly experienced the country.

Several feature in this article but Acatenango is without doubt that one that should be in your sights.

Visible from Antigua on a clear day, and just an hour's drive away from the old capital, the 3,976 metre summit lies next to Central America's most active volcano - the appropriately named Fuego (Fire). Every day hundreds of people hike up Acatenango to stay overnight on the summit, watch constant eruptions of its restless neighbour from the rustic basecamp, and enjoy a spectacular summit sunrise above the clouds.

It is, without a hint of hyperbole, one of the best and most memorable experiences we've had in a decade of travelling along dusty roads together.

So, if you're fit, able, and adventurous, you should absolutely add a hike up Acatenango Volcano to your plans.

Know | The 18km (11 miles) out-and-back trail is quite challenging, especially as you’re at altitude and have to carry a certain amount of supplies up for basecamp, but it’s still a realistic hike for those who have a reasonable level of fitness. Those who don’t hike or are unfit will find it difficult, but many complete it.

For those looking to take it even further, you can pay extra to hike the additional four-hour roundtrip hike from your Acatenango basecamp to Fuego, but it's technically not permitted, comes with pros /cons, and is very very risky.

Book | The overnight from Antigua is now one of the most popular things to do in Guatemala, and can only be done with a licensed tour company. However, slots sell out weeks in advance for the November-March high season and, from personal experience, we know just how difficult and stressful it is to find last-minute slots.

If your heart is set on this experience, it’s essential to get a booking in early - not only to secure your dates, but also to plan your accommodation and onward transport for the day you descend from the summit.

We recommend this tour by OXO Adventures on Viator, which is reliable and highly-rated - it also offers free cancellation. If that’s already full, then you can find more here.

Budget | Tours start + end in Antigua, require 1.5 days for the overnight, and cost on average of $80-120 USD per person.

Tip | If the overnight hike doesn't suit, or you're concerned about fitness, an easier and more affordable volcano to ascend from Antigua is Volcan Pacaya - but just don’t get too excited by the marshmallow stories you’ll hear elsewhere.

Plan // We've shared everything you really need to know on how to prepare, find a last-minute place, understand the logistics, and the kit you need to bring in our Essential Guide To Hiking Acatenango Volcano

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Semuc Champey in the Summertime

Without doubt, this is best natural swimming pool we’ve ever visited on our travels.

A decade ago though, we had grumpily left Semuc Champey on a dull, overcast rainy season day absolutely convinced that it wasn’t just overrated, but also not worth the effort.

Thankfully, on our most recent trip we had sparkling dry season sunshine and finally felt the magic.

One of Guatemala’s most famous destinations - and somewhere that features on nearly every first-timer’s itinerary - the super-sized fairy pools of Semuc Champey are found in a secluded jungle-covered canyon on the side of a dusty road. Although they require a bit of planning and effort to reach, and are a very long way to travel in order to effectively swim and sunbathe a bit, the setting, the hue of the blues, and the cascading layer cake levels of cool, deep pools and mini waterfalls is absolute perfection when conditions are right.

There are also a bunch of cool destination hostels in the surrounding area so, for anyone going from west to east or east to west across the country, it’s great choice to grab some R&R along the way.

Know | The only way to get there is a 7-9 hour journey from Antigua, Flores, and Lake Atitlan (though the town of Coban serves as a break-up for those with more time), so including Semuc Champey in your itinerary will eat into a chunk of your time.

Book | You can easily arrange a shuttle from Antigua to Semuc through your hostel or one of the many travel agencies in the city, but if you’d like to compare prices get it booked in advance head on over to GuateGo.

Budget | It’s 50Q (£5/$6) per person to enter, with no tour or guide required, although you can join the daily tours that include tubing and caving nearby. You should factor in a minimum of two nights in the area, possibly more if staying at one of the ‘destination hostels’.

Tip | Seriously, there’s really little point heading there if the weather is going to be rotten. If travelling outside the November-April dry season, check forecasts before firming up plans.

Stay | We really loved our stay at Greengo’s Hostel by the entrance, whilst Utopia Eco Hotel is a more peaceful, nature-based option.

Plan // How To Visit Semuc Champey

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Surfing & Beachtime in El Paredón

Backpackers in Central America rarely got excited about beaches in Guatemala.

Though the country has two coasts, the standard route of most travellers meant it may as well have been landlocked. With the stunning beaches of Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Belize in easy reach, plus a few Caribbean island specks a little further afield, there really was no point factoring in time on Guatemala’s shores.

Then something changed.

On our third trip to the country, it seemed like everyone was heading straight to the sea before or after their night atop Volcán Acatenango. Flyers in Antigua hostels and stickers on Semuc Champey shuttles all pointed to a place called ‘El Paredón’.

The word-of-mouth favourite in bars wasn’t for a trail or market, but a black sand beach that kills.

Once a place only for locals, the waves, and those hardcore surfers who travel in search of them, El Paredon has quickly evolved into an incredibly popular beach town for wealthy locals, travellers, and all-night parties. The pace of change is too quick and unsustainable in our view, but for now the roads are dusty, the beach is rugged, and the atmosphere quite chilled.

There are also the most incredible fish tacos served out of a school bus.

If the hiking, the volcanoes, the altitude and the mountains have got to you - or you want to end your trip with some serious sunshine - then El Paredón is the place to go.

Know | The riptide is serious and needs to be taken seriously.

Budget | Surf lessons start at 150Q, whilst a day’s board rental costs about the same.

Tip | This is one place where taking a shuttle bus from Antigua and elsewhere is going to save you several hours over the bus; Guatego is the best place to find timetables and book in advance.

Stay / Backpackers will love Mellow Hostel, surfers flock to Paredon Surf House but bouji-loving souls should check out Casa Zala.

Plan // Our El Paredon Travel Guide

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Coffee & Hiking in Quetzaltenango

The gringo trail in Guatemala is pretty well-defined: Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Semuc Champey, Tikal (more on that later), with volcano hikes and days trips sprinkled in. It’s popular because it’s logistically straightforward, rewarding, and well suited to first-time visitors looking to understand and enjoy the country.

One place that has steadfastly remained off the list of most is actually a firm favourite of ours.

A place of two names, Quetzaltenango can at times feel like it’s from another era.

A time when men shined their shoes, starched their collars, and streets were lined by tailors, seamstresses, and shops selling statues of Jesus and Mary. Tucked away in the folds of the western Highlands, the second-largest city in Guatemala is architecturally distinctive and an excellent base for hikers, backpackers, and language learners.

More commonly referred to by its its K’iche’ name of Xela (pronounced shay-la), unlike the old capital and the lake, the city's rhythms don't revolve at all around the wants and whims of tourists. Most businesses are locally-owned and for local needs, with the few exceptions retaining the feeling of a hideaway, rather than a cut-and-paste place for outsiders. There are still no fancy flashpacker hostels or plush boutique hotels, most evenings are incredibly cold, and there isn’t really a major landmark, gallery, or museum of note.

But man does Xela have soul.

Once you throw in the fact that it's also got, in our humble opinion, Guatemala's best coffee scene and you can independently do day trips up several volcanoes, to sacred lakes, to super-local markets and relaxing natural hot springs, there’s a reason it can get so under your skin.

For slow travellers or those looking for a different sort of base or experience of Guatemala, this is likely it.

Know | 5Ms Coffee House, Chinajul Café, Habitual Coffee Brew Bar, and Pigmento need to be on every coffee lover’s radar.

Budget | The upside of Xela being lesser visited by travellers in Guatemala is that many of the activities are either free or very reasonably priced - you can hike everyday, take taxis to the start points, grab an excellent coffee in the afternoon, shop for ingredients in the local market and spend less here in a week than you’d spend in Lake Atitlan or Antigua in a couple of days. It’s an excellent place to make your money go further!

Tip | Xela is a great base for all sorts of outdoor adventures, with Santa Maria, Tajumulco, and Laguna Chicabal the three volcano hikes we did.

Stay | We love the always popular Casa Seibel in a colonial house, but Kasa Kiwi is another good shout for more of a backpacker vibe. Consider Hotel Muchá if you want a little more comfort.

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Xela, Guatemala

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The Towns & Views of Lake Atitlán

The most storied, famous, and beautiful body of water in Central America, there’s a secret to making the most of Lake Atitlán: forgetting, momentarily, that it's a lake at all.

Formed thousands of years ago within the crater of a volcanic eruption, Atitlán is ringed by three stoic volcanic guardians and stark, steep hills and valleys. Its deep high-altitude waters, covering an area bigger than Paris or San Francisco, are imbued with much spiritual significance by the indigenous communities that live on the shoreline.

It is sort of a microcosm of Guatemala, and Aldous Huxley was on to something when he called it “too much of a good thing”.

When planning time there though - which can range from a few days to a few lost weeks - many misunderstand that it isn’t just one destination: it’s a body of water, it’s an impossible cluster of volcanoes, and it’s a collection of distinctive Maya-majority towns named after disciples.

Misunderstand this, rush it, or choose the wrong base, and frustration or disappointment are likely.

Arrive with patience, time and curiosity though, and you may just find your happy place.

From weavers to woo-woo shamans, lake swimming to language schools, coffee farms to chain-smoking saints, and boozey nights to breathwork retreats, the communities spread out along the shores of Lake Atitlán offer every sort of experience to a traveller - all framed with one of the best backdrops for which you could possibly conjure.

Know | Official and unofficial low-slung fibreglass boats zip along and across the lake ferrying locals and travellers from town to town; these are going to be your main mode of transport, with perhaps the occasional tuk-tuk or trail. We’ve written this short explainer to the Lake Atitlan boats to help you prep on costs and connections.

Book | If it’s got availability, backpackers should try to get a spot at La Iguana Perdida hostel, whilst those with a bigger budget have to reserve early for stays at the social-media favourite of Casa del Mundo

Tip | The Indian Nose - so-called as its profile is said to resemble the face of a reclining Mayan man - offers a truly unforgettable sunrise view. Due to ongoing security issues though, it’s advisable to head up there with a guided tour - this is the guided sunrise hike we recommend.

Stay | Choosing the right town(s) as your base is pivotal to a positive Lake Atitlan experience - we’ve shared everything you need to know and our other recommendations for guesthouses, hostels, and Airbnbs in this post: Where To Stay in Lake Atitlan

Plan // We have written a lot of Lake Atitlan guides, but the best place to start is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Lake Atitlan.

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Explore the Ruins of Tikal

Long before it became Guatemala’s most significant archaeological site, Tikal was one of the great cities of the Maya world.

A political and ceremonial centre that shaped this region for centuries, the city rose to prominence during the Classic Maya period (AD 250–900), when powerful city-states dominated much of what is now northern Guatemala, Belize, and southern Mexico.

The Maya were not a single empire, but a network of rival powers linked by trade and shared belief systems, and Tikal sat at the heart. Walking through the Great Plaza and climbing the towering temples, built between the 4th and 9th centuries AD, you can feel the ambition of the city in every stone, the scale and alignment of the architecture guiding your gaze across open courtyards and into the jungle beyond.

Unlike many archaeological sites though, Tikal was never truly ‘lost'‘. Local communities always knew of its existence, even as the jungle gradually reclaimed it. The wider world only took notice in the mid-19th century, when explorers documented towering pyramids emerging above the forest canopy - structures so monumental they seemed implausible in such a remote setting.

This jungle environment sharpens the experience of visiting the remnants of Tikal, with howler monkey roars across treetops, toucans flying overhead, and temples revealing themselves gradually as paths bend and narrow.

Few places let you walk among temples that have stood for over a thousand years while the jungle presses in around you, and that immediacy is why travellers make the journey to Tikal.

Know | Located near Flores in the far northeast of the country, just across the borders with Belize and Mexico, Tikal fits naturally into the route for travellers moving overland through Central America. For those visiting Guatemala as a standalone destination, it requires a little more intention and planning: you can fly from Guatemala City to Flores for speed, take a 6-8 hour shuttle bus, or do an independent overland route with public transport.

We’ve even met people who - crazily in our view - took flights up there from Guatemala City in the morning, visited the site, then came back the same day!

Budget | Tikal is one of the pricer things to do in Guatemala. The standard entrance ticket for international visitors is Q150 (about $20 USD), but you have to buy an additional Q100 / $13 ticket if you want to be inside for sunrise (4 - 6am) or sunset (6 - 8pm).

Book | For sunrise/sunset access, advance booking is required and fills up in high season. There are various websites pretending to be the official one, but the place to buy tickets in advance online is the government-run Boletos Tikal. Note that in order to visit at sunset or sunrise, you must be accompanied with a guide but you have to source one independently.

Whilst this may be frustrating for those travelling on a budget that want to see the ruins at their most photogenic, following our own personal experience of Tikal (one half of Along Dusty Roads has actually visited twice) we can confirm that a good guide really helps bring the ruins to life, offering context on Mayan dynasties and symbolism, and spotting wildlife you’d otherwise miss.

Whether you choose to join a sunrise tour or visit independently later in the day, this is an incredibly popular and highly-rated group tour - with departures from Flores throughout the day - that includes a guide and round-trip transport. They have a sunrise departure too!

Tip | Arrive as early as possible, even if you’re not doing sunrise: the heat, crowds, and tour groups build quickly, and the first hours of the day are when Tikal feels most atmospheric and manageable.

Stay | Those joining a day tour will be based in Flores (ideally for a few days as it’s a really lovely little town), and its location on the doorstep of one of Central America’s most famous archeological sites means there’s no shortage of accommodation. Backpackers will love Los Amigos, Hotel Casa Amelia and Casa Ramano are wonderful little guest houses (La Posada De Don Jose is a good option if you’re on a budget), and Hotel Casona de La Isla is a long-standing favourite.

Alternatively, do what Emily did first time round and take a shuttle to stay overnight within the park - it’s an incredible experience! She stayed in the popular Jungle Lodge Hostal, but Hotel Jungle Lodge Tikal is a wonderful (and slightly fancier) alternative, and widely considered the best place to stay in Tikal.

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Join A Spanish School

Way back in 2014, at the beginning of Along Dusty Roads and our two-year Latin America trip, we spent a couple of life-changing weeks at a language school in Guatemala; two weeks that set us on the course for a deeper understanding of a part of the world that would quickly become one of our very favourites.

If you want to travel better in Latin America, then having a decent level of Spanish is the difference-maker.

We’re still far from fluent, but without a steadily growing embrace of the Spanish language on our Latin American adventures, we never would have been able to chat with Bolivian taxi drivers about an upcoming election, learn the tragic stories of Colombia’s and Chile’s forgotten people, the reasons a poor farmer from Guatemala feels rich beyond words, or translate a Nicaraguan soldier’s tales. Our experiences have been made so much richer by our ability to speak meaningfully with those we meet, and not having to rely on tours, hostels and English-speaking guides has opened up these countries in a way that is impossible for those who never try.

For some, joining a Spanish school is actually their primary reason to visit Guatemala in the first place. It’s got a great reputation for this and is hands-down one of the best destinations for learning Spanish, and not just because it’s more affordable than other countries in the region. There’s an abundance of schools focussed on international students and travellers, one-to-one classes are the norm, short and longer courses offered, and the neutral Guatemalan accent is much easier to understand across the Spanish-speaking world.

The fact it means you can base yourself in one places for a week or longer is just la guinda del pastel.

You’ll find schools in Antigua, Xela, Lake Atitlan, Flores and elsewhere, but the most important thing is to choose a base that’s a good fit for your interests and travel style as well as your learning. Many also offer homestay packages with local families, which would add an entirely new dimension to both your learning and cultural immersion.

Know | Spanish is the official language, but Guatemala is also home to 21 Mayan languages, plus Xinca and Garífuna, and many communities use their ancestral languages alongside Spanish. Whilst not official in the same legal sense, these indigenous languages are recognised as ‘National Languages’ and protected by law.

Budget | A one-week Spanish course in Guatemala typically includes 15–25 hours of tuition and costs $130–$200 USD, with the price varying by school, course type, and intensity.

Tip | If you don’t have the time or inclination to join a school, then we still recommend spending a little time getting the basics down before you arrive (or whilst you’re on the road). There are so many options these days - podcasts, YouTube teachers, online lessons, music and movies - but we personally use and recommend the little-known Michel Thomas method. It’s audio-only, doesn’t require notes, and is far more effective than Duolingo if your goal is to start speaking - not just play on your phone.

We rate it so munch that we asked them for a discount, and you can get 30% off if you use MTMADR at check-out.

Plan // How To Pick Your Language School in Guatemala

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Ride The Chicken Buses

There’s absolutely a place for shuttle buses on shorter visits or to cut down some convoluted journeys, but on our last trip to Guatemala we were really troubled by how few travellers we saw on its ‘chicken buses’ in comparison to previous trips.

These old American and Canadian school buses are sold at auction once they reach around ten years or 150,000 miles, then driven south for a second life on Guatemalan roads. There, they receive quite the glow-up: overhauled with bigger engines, repainted in vivid colours and personalised inside and out with everything from bible phrases and religious murals to sexy lady stickers and superhero spray-painted jobs, chrome trim and neon lights, and the obligatory booming sound systems that pumps out reggaetón, salsa, norteña, and all manner of ballads from the ‘80s (we have a playlist dedicated solely to songs we’ve Shazaamed on them!)

Why on earth wouldn’t you want ride a bus like that?!

Ok, road safety may not always be at the forefront of drivers' mind, there’s no such thing as full, and you may be paranoid about your backpacks falling off the roof but almost every journey is memorable. The shuttles are way more expensive and just full of other tourists, whist getting around Guatemala with these pimped-out local buses offers so many more interesting insights and a great opportunity to see a different side of this country's vibrant culture.

It also allows you to find out just how many adults can fit on a seat created for two small children.

We travelled exclusively with them for two months on our first trip, and for about 80% of our journeys on the most recent one, with zero issues to report on both!

So, whilst the journey may be cramped, chaotic, and you may be overcharged, it will always be more memorable - give them a go!

Know | Locals don’t call them ‘chicken buses’ - that’s the tourist moniker - and they’re just regular buses here (or camionetas). Chicken-sightings are also disappointingly rare these days.

Book | You don’t have to book anything; just go to the bus station or wait in the right place on the street and pay during the journey. For those trips with too many connections, or where a shuttle bus will shave hours off, we recommend looking + booking shuttles on Guatego.

Tip | Your big backpacks (don’t travel Guatemala with a suitcase) will either go up on the roof or wedged in at the back of the bus - it’s a good idea to put your rain cover on them to prevent easy access, stains, or anything falling out.

Plan // Eight Things We Learned on Chicken Buses

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The East Coast: Río Dulce and Livingston

For most travellers, Guatemala is highlands, volcanoes, and colonial towns, but the east coast offers something very different.

Here, the landscape opens into wide rivers, dense mangroves, and the area is home to the Garífuna people - an enduring set of survivors who escaped the slave trade on countless occasions - whose Afro-indigenous heritage, language, and music contrast with the Maya communities found elsewhere in the country.

Wander around the streets in Livingston, and dreadlocks will be a more common sight than the colourful Maya dresses seen across much of Guatemala’s highlands.

Why go? Río Dulce is a haven for nature lovers and slow travellers alike: small boats thread through jungle-lined waterways, past floating villages and hidden waterfalls, while lodges tucked along the river offer quiet escapes. Livingston itself hums with reggae rhythms, seafood stalls, and brightly painted streets, giving visitors a chance to experience a unique culture, cuisine, and way of life found nowhere else in Guatemala.

Whether you’re navigating the river, sampling the local cuisine, or simply watching the sun set over the mangroves, this corner of the country rewards those willing to step off the usual route.

Know | Getting to Livingston is half the adventure. Most travellers arrive by boat from Río Dulce, winding through lush rivers, mangroves, and tiny riverside villages.

Tip | Don’t leave Livingston without trying topado. The Garífuna seafood stew of with coconut, peppers, and plantain is genuinely delicious!

Plan | Our (very old) guide to Livingston

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Volcano Hikes & Epic Sunrise Missions

As we’ve already hinted, Guatemala is stuffed to the brim with volcanoes - 37 to be precise - thanks to its location on the Ring of Fire.

Not the Johnny Cash one.

They shape daily life here as much as they shape the skyline - rising behind market towns, defining horizons around Antigua, and feeding the fertile soils - and are as intimidating as they are beguiling. Your itinerary could feasibly revolve around just how many you can summit or squeeze into a month!

For travellers, their ubiquity translates into unusually direct access to some proper experiences, often within a day or two of arriving in the country: watching eruptions pulse through the night, (possibly) roasting marshmallows over lava, setting off in darkness to reach a summit for sunrise, or witnessing sacred Mayan ceremonies at 3,500 metres above sea level.

This is why we say hiking boots are mandatory, even if you swear you’re ‘not really a hiking person’.

Layers are also a very, very good idea.

But not all volcano climbs in Guatemala are created equal: some are straightforward half-day outings suitable for first-timers and families, while others demand altitude acclimatisation, guides, permits, camping, experience, and an alarm set deep in the night. A few also persistently remain off limits due to security issues.

The overnight on Acatenango Volcano, as discussed, steals most attention and footfall these days, but there are several others you really should also be considering whilst in the country! These are the volcano hikes we’ve done over the years there, and the links lead to our specific trail guides:

· Pacaya | this active volcano outside Antigua offers a manageable intro and acclimatisation hike

· Tajamulco | it’s 2 days / 1 night enjoy an epic sunrise from the highest peak in Guatemala and all of Central America!

· Santa María | outside Xela, this hike above the cloud kicked our arses

· Chicabal | an easier walk to a very important, spiritual place for the Mam-Maya

Travel Tip // The best piece of kit you can bring for your travels in Guatemala and elsewhere in Central America? A filter bottle. Tap water isn’t safe to drink here and instead of contributing to the endless parade of tourists relying on single-use plastic bottles - most of which won’t be recycled - we brought our trusty Water-to-Go filter bottles. They’ve been an essential piece of our travels for the last seven years and we only have positive experiences.

It’s got a magic built-in filter that removes 99.9999% of contaminants - bacteria, viruses, even microplastics - and it works instantly.

No boiling, no tablets, no waiting around. Just fill it up and drink. Simple.

Beyond the hydration and convenience, these have honestly saved us a fortune on bottled water while travelling, and cut down massively on plastic waste.

We use and recommend the 750ml Active bottle: head to the Water-to-Go website and use the code ‘ADR15’ at checkout for 15% off, or buy one here on Amazon.

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Celebrate The Maya & Indigenous Culture

One of the clearest reasons to travel in Guatemala is its thriving Maya culture, visible and vibrant in a way that sets the country apart in Central America.

Nearly half the population identifies as Maya, spread across more than 20 distinct groups, each with its own language, traditions, and history, from K’iche’ and Q’eqchi’ in the highlands to Tz’utujil and Mam around the lake regions. For the visitor, the prevalence of traditional dress that signals community, lineage, and identity is the most striking and visible aspect.

The Maya endured the Spanish colonial period, which brought conquest, forced labour, violence, and the imposition of new religious and social structures. During Guatemala’s 36-year civil war (1960–1996), state forces - including the military and government-backed paramilitaries - specifically targeted Maya communities, carrying out massacres, human rights abuses, and forcibly displacing hundreds of thousands, actions later recognised by UN-backed investigations as acts of genocide.

Yet, they have endured, as well as preserved language, customs, and weaving traditions. Their resilience is why Guatemala today has one of the most visible, diverse, and thriving Indigenous cultures in the Americas.

The most immediate way for outsiders to appreciate this cultural aspect is through textiles and weaving. Women’s traje - skirts, blouses, and sashes - vary in colour, pattern, and technique from village to village. Centuries-old methods using backstrap looms and natural dyes remain in use. Visiting markets in Chichicastenango, Sololá, or Huehuetenango, joining a small weaving workshop in San Juan La Laguna, or watching artisans dye threads and weave patterns offers travellers something tangible to see, touch, and learn from, not just admire from afar.

13/

The Markets

Every Thursday and Sunday, vendedores from surrounding villages pack up their goods, load them on a beat-up pick-up truck or the top of a chicken bus, and make their way to Chichicastenango.

One of the largest and most famous markets in Guatemala, it distils a lot of what is great about visiting Guatemala: the riot of colours in handwoven textiles, bustling crowds navigating narrow streets, surprising scenes and scents, and families enjoying the day together in traditional dress.

These days, the twice-weekly market attracts more than its fair share of day-trippers, and has perhaps tipped over into ‘not what it once was’ territory. Yet, if you’re in the area on market day, Chichi market remains a very worthwhile and photogenic way to spend a morning.

More broadly though, give us time and our cameras, and we’d choose to be dropped in any regular market in Guatemala for a few hours - they’re just so captivating and different to home! You’ll find a version of one in almost every we’ve mentioned in this article, and we encourage you to go out of your way to wander but also to buy some produce or souvenirs.

We also have to give a special mention to the hyper-local market we sought out an hour or so from Quetzaltenango - that was a real eye-opener.

Know | Chichicastenango market takes place Thursdays and Sundays, with the latter drawing the biggest crowds. Most stalls operate from early morning into the early afternoon, so it’s best to arrive before noon.

Most visitors do a day trip to Chichicastenango from Antigua, which is about 2-3 hours away by shuttle or private transport. It’s a bit quicker to visit from Lake Atitlán though, so do what’s best for you. We did it independently with public transport, staying overnight in Chichi.

Book | You’ll find and book several highly-rated daytrip tours for Chichi here

Tip | Whilst haggling is part of the fun, don’t be a dick and make sure it’s a fair deal for everyone. Also, there is a big difference in price and quality between machine and handmade textiles.

Bonus Wildcard/ The Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

If you’re looking for a deeper perspective on Guatemala, or a travel experience that gets you right out of your comfort zone, this may just be it.

The three-day hike from Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlán was our wildcard pick on the last trip and, whilst challenging in parts, was really special. Beyond the fact it ended with the most magical sunrise over Lake Atitlan with an armed police escort(!), the 46 km/28.5 miles of dusty roads, volcanic slopes, cloud forests, villages and rivers through the western highlands also revealed people and parts of the country that few visit whilst bringing together a lovely bunch of travellers.

As for the blisters on day two? Well, that was simply the cost of doing business.

It’s all run by a fantastic non-profit organisation called Quetzaltrekkers, who arrange unique, off-the-beaten-path single and multi-day treks in Guatemala. 100% of their profits directly fund education, safe housing, and social support for vulnerable indigenous children in Xela, and we’ve now had two excellent experiences with them ten years apart. We actually recommend them to everyone who asks us about Guatemala.

Hike and help out? What’s not to like.

Know | You have to carry your kit for the three days and some shared supplies, so a good level of physical fitness is necessary. However, the daily distances are actually manageable and the group dynamic is about catering to all levels, so don’t be intimidated. Your main bags will also be dropped off in Lake Atitlan, so you don’t have to carry all your stuff.

If you haven’t got any multi-day hiking experience, this would be a perfect step up if you’re ready to move beyond day hikes and tackle something more immersive and rewarding!

Book | You can find out more details and book the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike here on the Quetzaltrekkers website

Tip | Whilst we’re big proponents of bringing your own decent hiking boots and socks to Guatemala, you can borrow/rent all the other stuff from Quetzaltrekkers if joining one their treks.

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Xela

Travel More in Guatemala

Find all our Guatemala guides here

The Panamanian islands of Bocas del Toro are only accessible by boat or flight, and this can present challenges when planning your Central America itinerary.

Some travellers will head over to them immediately after crossing over the land border with Costa Rica, whilst others make their way from several destinations in mainland Panama, usually David, Boquete and the capital Panama City.

Flights are the quickest and most direct option, but won’t suit every budget or itinerary, whilst the bus & boat combination is the cheapest and most memorable.

Those doing a Panama road trip face a bit more of logistical conundrum for the islands, but we have the answers to help you decide on the best option for your route (and what exactly to do with your rental car).

Importantly, whatever transport method you use to reach Bocas del Toro, you’ll arrive on Isla Colón - the archipelago’s largest island and main transport hub. From there, another boat is necessary for anyone staying on accommodation on another island, whilst anyone staying in the better parts of Isla Colón will also need a taxi or transfer.

In this ‘routes’ post explainer, whether you’re coming from mainland Panama or Costa Rica, we aim to cut through the noise so you quickly understand the various transport options and onward connections, and can choose the best fit for your own trip and travel style.

There’s also some important travel better tips to make the journey smoother and scam-free, plus the reason why you should always keep a rain jacket handy…

This is how to get to Bocas del Toro.

Know | If you’re travelling from Costa Rica to Bocas del Toro - with the border crossing at Puerto Viejo/Limon - then we have a specific post on the cheapest and quickest ways to do it, plus advice on Panama entry requirements: Costa Rica to Panama Border Crossing

Alternatively, you can book this shuttle that takes care of everything and gets you there in three hours.

Fly from Panama City to Bocas del Toro

Despite being at opposite sides of the isthmus, heading to Bocas straight from the capital is actually a pretty good idea - especially for those on shorter trips looking to maximise days - but only if you fly.

It simply doesn’t make sense in terms of transport or itineraries to do it overland or with public transport.

There are multiple direct daily flights from Panama City to Bocas del Toro, and they only take an hour to arrive at the tiny Isla Colón International Airport (BOC).

The cheapest ticket we’ve seen is the $80 USD basic fare, but the average price comes in at around $120-180 USD.

However, these flights do not depart from Tocumen International Airport (TOC) - the main airport and gateway for most flying into the country - but rather the much smaller Marcos A. Gelabert Airport (PAC). Sometimes referred to as Albrook Airport, it’s centrally located and quick to reach from Casco Viejo and downtown - find it here on Google Maps.

Just make sure to enter the correct one if you’re heading there in an Uber!

The two airlines currently operating the Panama City - Isla Colón route are:

· Air Panama | 4 flights per day in high season (Nov-Apr), starting from 6.45am

· FlyTrip | 4 timeslots per day, but sometimes multiple flights per slot

Note that basic / economy fares usually don’t include any check-in baggage on Air Panama, but do on FlyTrip, so it’s important to compare like-for-like. Unfortunately, you won’t find FlyTrip on aggregators like Skyscanner, so you need to check schedules and prices directly on their website

These Bocas del Toro flights are all on small planes, with capacity of about 50 on most Air Panama flights, but the turboprop services only carry twelve or so passengers. It’s therefore a good idea, especially if you’re on a budget or a shorter inflexible itinerary, to book in advance to secure your spot and the lowest fares.

You’ll land at Isla Colón International Airport, which is wonderfully small with just one shop (often closed), the two flight companies, and sometimes a local guy busking on his acoustic guitar whilst people line up for security. You can easily walk from the airport into Bocas town in 5-10 minutes, whilst a taxi is about $2 per person (not necessary for most).

If you’ll be basing yourself on another island however, you’ll need to take a connecting boat from the docks in Bocas Town - we explain how this works at the end of the post.

Know | As they’re small planes, weight and luggage restrictions are more strictly enforced than you may be used to (unless you fly Ryanair). Heavier passengers even get weighed at check-in so they can balance out the seating! It’s therefore super important to actually read the fine print for your particular airline and tactical packing is usually required - especially if you don’t want to fork out extra for a more generous allowance.

You should arrive early to the airport if you think your bags are going to be marginal to increase your chances of getting away with it or having time to redistribute / wear everything that’s putting you over the limit!

The storage above the seats will be fine for most daypacks, but carry-on suitcases really do need to be at or under the dimensions listed. Also, note that on the smaller props, some seats have even less room in the overhead compartment than others, so you may need to negotiate with someone else to put your bigger bag above them.

Tip | Try and get a seat on the left for the flight into Bocas for views, and on the right for the way out!

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama City

David to Bocas del Toro | Bus & Boat, No Flights

Panama’s second city isn’t a must-visit destination for travellers, but its location and transport hub status makes it a common starting point for overland Bocas del Toro journeys.

Located in the west of the country - close to the popular highland town of Boquete - you’ll usually travel from David if you’ve already visited the east and south Panama, or are working your way up toward Costa Rica

The public transport from David is affordable and pretty straightforward once you know the lay of the land, but can take up to six hours to reach Isla Colón.

That shouldn’t deter you in the slightest though, but simply underline that an earlier start is a good idea!

Note that no airline currently operates direct flights between David and Bocas del Toro. If a search shows one, it will always involve a connection via Panama City, so check the itinerary carefully before booking anything!

The journey from David involves two stages:

1. The Bus from David to Almirante

After dropping our rental car off in David, this is what we did.

Head to David bus station (here on Google Maps) and look for the small office of Servichanda Changuinola. It’s located between ‘Local 32’ and ‘Local 33’ - look for little square white signs with red numbers. Alternatively, you’ll see frequent red and white signs with a bus symbol hanging from the roof: keep your eyes peeled for the one saying ‘Guayabal’ and you’re pretty much next to the office.

Their drivers wear maroon shirts too, so are quite easy to spot, and if you ask for ‘Almirante’ or ‘Bocas’, someone’ll point you in the right direction.

As far as we’re aware, this is the only company which operates the route from David to Changuinola in northern Panama, and you need to ask for a ticket to Almirante (where almost every other gringo on the service is going to get off).

Their minivans leave frequently throughout the day, and you need to queue inside the office to buy tickets - there’s a price list taped up and we paid $8.45 each.

Note that if there’s a nearly-full van that’s just about to depart, you may be rushed on board by the staff and told to pay later.

If you turn up with more time to spare before departure, be aware that locals often reserve their seats with bags or small children, then head off to get snacks etc. This means you shouldn’t assume there’s loads of space or dawdle, and it’s a good idea to get your ticket and stake out your own seat too, rather than fanny about in the bus station.

These minivan buses are always going to get quite full though - often over what you think is capacity - and you should therefore expect quite a cramped ride. Doubly so for anyone with long legs. This is the main reason why we recommend not getting flustered if they ask you to get out of the ticket queue and rush on just before it departs, as there’s a good chance you’ll be left with the only terrible seat remaining; if that’s the case, we 100% recommend calmly saying you’ll just wait for the next one in order to enjoy a slightly more comfortable ride north!

We left David bus station at 11.22am and arrived in Almirante at 3.45pm, meaning a travel time of 4h 30 mins. This included 2 x 10-15 minute rest/snack stops along the way.

You need to disembark at the bus station on the outskirts of Almirante (here on Google Maps), where you’ll quickly be swarmed by waiting taxi drivers offering to help with your bags and take you to the docks. It's $1 per person to for the five minute drive to the dock and, though you could easily do the walk yourself in15 minutes, the $1will be good value if it allows you to just make the next boat departure.

There will likely be other travellers getting off the bus and going to the docks, and it’s best to buddy up for the taxis.

Time | 4-5 hours

Cost | $8.45 per person - cash only - buy at ticket office or driver’s assistant will ask for payment about 30 minutes before the your stop

Tip | You’re driving through a beautiful part of the country and a section of the Ngäbe-Buglé Comarca, so look out the window, not at your phone.

Know | A quicker alternative is this shuttle from David, booked online or via hostels. They’re also available to book in advance on 12Go.

Stay // If staying in David for a night or two, there’s a wide selection of modern hotels like to choose from - Hotel Ciudad de David has excellent ratings. Alternatively, an Airbnb like Casa Monet and its tropical garden offers fantastic value. For those on a budget, Mike Adventures Guesthouse and Hostal Familiar Argeñal are solid, no-frills picks.

2. The Boat / Ferry from Almirante to Isla Colon

Now the fun starts.

Almirante is the mainland gateway to the Bocas del Toro islands. From here, you can take frequent shared boats (lanchas) to Bocas Town on Isla Colón, whilst there’s also a slower, less frequent ferry.

The majority of travellers will take the shared boat for speed and convenience, but also because you may not be given the choice!

The Lanchas

These run throughout the day, theoretically every 30 minutes or so but there’s no fixed timetable, so you may end up waiting around with no idea when you’re actually going! It’s not necessary to book your boat tickets in advance, and the crossing to Bocas town takes about 35 minutes.

The docks where you’ll be dropped off or arrive on foot are on a narrow-ish street by the Chiquita banana containers, with lots of activity, bodies, and a dollop of chaotic energy (at least when we’ve been there). Find the Almirante docks here on Google Maps.

Young guys will approach straight away offering to carry your bags for two metres, telling you a boat is just about to go, or help buy your ticket. It’s mostly a hustle, but there are scams going on too and it can feel a bit dodgy at moments. Some pressure people into accepting their help or don’t even ask before taking your bag into a specific office, and they aren’t doing it for free. They were quite aggressive to others when demanding tips.

Our advice is, once you’re out of the taxi, get your bag straight away and take a moment to compose yourself. Also:

• do not leave bags or valuables unattended

• anyone who helps you will ask / expect a tip

• don’t be rushed, led astray, or simply follow the scrum

• there's clearly a system of commission for taxi drivers and / or the touts - so don’t necessarily take their advice at face value

• patience is a virtue

There are a handful of tour & boat companies based in the street, and we did what we usually don’t, and just got tickets at the one the taxi driver dropped us outside. That was Transporte marítimo Valencia - maps - and it was packed with almost every other backpacker and tour group. However, we ended up waiting 45-minutes for a boat, so it may be worth walking a little further down to Transporte Lancha Torres (maps) in case their office is less packed or they’ve got a pending departure.

Both are open 6am-6pm and charge the same prices: $6 for a one-way (ida) ticket from Almirante to Bocas, or $10 for a return (ida-vuelta). Cash only.

As we already had our flight booked from Bocas del Toro to Panama City, we just got the $6 one-way. Whilst offering better up-front value, it’s not recommended not to get the $10 return ticket if you’re going to take an organised shuttle from Bocas onward to Boquete or Panama City, as they’re included in the price.

Further, although there’s no date specific on your return ticket, others say it’s valid for a month. If you lose it in Bocas, you won’t be given another, and you can only use it with the same compmany’s boats on the way back, which may not be ideal if you’re looking to leave in a hurry.

Be aware that the taxi drivers and touts all push the return ticket as it increases their commission.

We’ll leave it up to you though, and welcome anyone sharing their experience on whether it gives more convenience or not!

Lastly, there are various signs up stating 'never buy or pay outside the offices for boats or tours', so make sure you only buy your Bocas del Toro boat ticket from the kiosk inside!

The boats themselves are low-slung and weathered, with individual seats and canopy for cover. Large bags are chucked on and stored haphazardly at the front and back. Lifejackets are provided, and you’ll have a slightly less bumpy ride at the back. If it’s not a bright and sunny day, it can get a bit chilly once it speeds up, so not a bad idea to have a layer handy.

Banana growing is the main employer in this region, and the scale of that is quite clear when you see the fortifications of Chiquita shipping containers by the docks.

Know | Boats usually stop running around the late afternoon / early evening; to avoid running the risk of missing the last boat of the day try to arrive in town before 3pm. Also, there’s not much on the dock street for snacks or food.

If you need to stay the night, there are only a handful of options available online. Gigi’s Guesthouse has decent ratings and is perfectly situated for the docks, whilst Hostal Ojo de Agua had good reviews but may be a little far away for convenience.

Top Tip // Based on our experience, don’t be surprised if information is scant and varied about when your boat is actually going to arrive + leave! Unless it’s right there waiting and almost full, you’ll be told it’ll be in just five minutes, then twenty, then in another ten etc. Just be patient; stress or complaints won’t get you anywhere quicker. However, if you’ve been waiting a decent while, it’s important to also keep your wits about you as more groups and travellers arrive in the office. If you want to make damn sure you’re on the next boat, then get a place vaguely in line and sharpen up those elbows - it can be quite a chaotic scrum to actually get on and those who aren’t prepared will be left behind.

The Ferry to Bocas del Toro

Due to the more limited scheduled, the small ferry isn’t as popular a choice for travellers heading from Almirante to Bocas del Toro.

However, if it aligns with your arrival times in town, it would probably be a cool way to get there. The crossing time is quite a bit longer at 1 hour 40 minutes, but sometimes the slow way is the most memorable.

The standard timetable for the ferry from Almirante to Isla Colon is a departure at 6am, 11am, 3.30pm (Monday to Saturday), reducing to 7am and 12pm on Sundays.

This will be different on any public holidays etc, and it’s always recommended to arrive at least 30 minutes earlier.

Rather helpfully, the Bocas del Toro ferry has a decent website where you can find more information and latest schedules.

Tickets are $3 adult passengers and find the Almirante ferry port here on Google Maps. Note the port is a 20-minute walk from the aforementioned docks, and you’ll have to be very clear to a taxi driver if that’s why you want him to drop you off!

The ferry also has limited space for vehicles, costing from $35 to $50 depending on size, but the price appears to include your passenger ticket too.

For road trippers in Panama, the ferry is therefore a viable option - but there are complications due to space and whether you actually want/need to have your car on the islands. We’ve covered everything in the ‘Driving to Bocas’ section’.

Boquete to Bocas del Toro

This is a natural stage on most first-time Panama itineraries, as well as anyone who started their bigger Central America trip here and is working their way north to Costa Rica.

You have two main options:

1. The Shuttles

In short, the quickest and easiest way from Boquete to Bocas del Toro is with the daily shuttle bus + ferry combo. These leave Boquete in the morning, take you to Almirante, and help you get on the boats. Travel time is often advertised as three hours, but it’s a better idea to expect the journey to last four.

Overall, it’s going be a more comfortable and convenient ride than the public transport alternative.

You can find schedules and book your transfer on Bookaway and 12Go.

2. Public Transport

There is currently no direct bus from Boquete to Almirante, so you have to first take the local minivan / bus from Boquete down to David.

During the weekday, these depart every 20-25 minutes from 4.15am till 4.15pm, reducing to every 30-60 minutes until 7.45pm. The schedule is a bit more spread out on weekends.

It costs $2 one-way, and the journey to David takes about an hour - find the pick-up point in Boquete here on Google Maps.

Once in David, you then simply have to follow the steps outlined above to reach Almirante then take the boat/ferry to Isla Colón!

If connections all go smoothly, you’re looking at 7-8 hour travel day and total cost around $17 per person. Obviously, you should start as early as you can if going this way!

The Wilcard Alternative

We regret not spending at least a night at The Lost and Found Hostel.

Situated on the way from David to Almirante, it’s a remote backpacker hostel hidden high up in the cloud forest of Chiriquí. You have to hike in, and the views it offers are stunning, whilst there’s jungle trails, hammocks, communal dinners, cold beers, and a proper off-the-beaten-track vibe.

It came highly recommended from a few of our Instagram followers, but we decided to prioritise extra days in Bocas.

If you’re looking to break up the journey to Bocas, or simply looking to include a beautiful lesser-visited area of Panama in your plans, then it may be the perfect choice - check prices and availability here.

For road trippers or those preferring mountain views but no hostel, check out the ominously named El Refugio La Brisa del Diablo

Driving to Bocas del Toro & Panama Road Trips | How To Do It

If you’ve read our other Panama guides, you’ll know that we actually had a rental car for the first two weeks of our one-month trip.

This opened up much of the country to us, but posed quite the conundrum when working out what to do for the Bocas Del Toro portion. In fact, it resulted in several re-writes of our itinerary!

Could we bring the car over to the islands? Should we bother? How secure were the storage alternatives in Almirante?

We won’t go into all facets of the research and decision-making process that ultimately led us to drop off the car in David, take public transport to Bocas, then fly back to Panama City, but the takeaway is that you need to figure out how and when Bocas del Toro fits into your Panama road trip before booking your rental car.

However, we do just want to share all the options available below, so that you can make the best decision for your budget, route, and travel style.

(you can find everything else over in our tips for Driving in Panama)

The Bocas del Toro Ferry

As mentioned, you can take vehicles on the Bocas del Toro ferry in Almirante (maps) for $35-50 depending on type/size.

Space for vehicles is very limited on the three daily weekday ferries, so you need to book your spot early. Next, turn up as early as you can to join the line, but we’ve read that the lack of signage and confusion over which lines to wait in can cause issues.

Also, don’t necessarily believe the staff if you’re in a line and they say your car is guaranteed a spot on the ferry!

Reading the experiences of a few others, if it all goes to plan, then taking your car on the Bocas ferry is seamless and worthwhile, but others have faced long and confusing delays to actually get their car on it.

The most important question to ask yourself though is whether you actually want or need your rental car on Bocas del Toro. Isla Colón is definitely large enough to get some use out of it, but you still won’t be able to access several parts of that island without a 4x4, and you can’t take the car to the other islands.

For further information, visit the Ferrybocas website and please do share your experience in the comments if you do this route with a rental!

The Almirante Parking Lots

The next option is to leave your car at one of several parking lots in Almirante.

We really weren’t certain about the set-up or reliability of these when planning, and it seemed like a waste to pay for both the rental and parking whilst the car was just going to be sat on the mainland for five days!

In order to clarify things for our readers though, we personally visited two of the car parks closest to the passenger boat docks in Almirante. The situation became a lot clearer and, whilst nothing fancy, they wholly specialise in tourists and locals leaving their cars whilst over on the archipelago.

Prices are around $3 to $5 per day.

Although we could never give a 100% guarantee on security, they were legit and have great reviews on Google Maps.

To save you time, we’ve shared the Google Maps listing of four that have 1. an excellent rating and 2. enough reviews to make it relevant:

Leiza Secure Parking | $3 a day and located conveniently right by the shared boats - we visited and would use.

Émilie’s Secured Parking | Right by the ferry dock, charging $5 day. Excellent reviews all round.

Gia's Garage | On way to ferry dock in more residential setting, charges $3 per day

Parking Viquez | A bit out of the way in comparison to the others.

We highly recommend reading all the reviews before making your decision and choice, and it’s best to contact them directly to book a spot ahead of arrival (the above have their Whatsapp numbers on the Google Maps listing).

Lastly, some reviewers state that you will immediately get innundated with car park offers from the same guys who hustle and hassle around the docks. Anticipate this, don’t stop, and just tell them you already have a booking elsewhere if you get into a conversation.

Know | One owner we spoke to said you usually don’t have to leave your keys, but if they are super full, they may ask for them. However, we’d never suggest leaving them as it probably voids your rental agreement and insurance in the event of any issues.

Drop-Off in David

Lastly, if it makes sense for your route and budget, you could also elect to drop the hire car off in David.

This means you’re instantly car-free for three destinations where you really don’t need your own wheels.

However, note that this will limit the number of car hire companies available to you, remove the cheaper deals on Rentalcars and AutoEurope, and is also likely to incur a mandatory one-way drop-off fee.

In short, it’ll make your rental more expensive overall.

For us, it ultimately made sense to stomach the increased cost in order to give ourselves more car-free days to experience Bocas del Toro, the San Blas, and Panama City, rather than the alternative of driving back to the capital from Almirante.

Plan // Anyone planning a road trip or rental should read our Essential Tips for Driving in Panama to cut down on stress, costs, and police stops!

Onward Connections from Bocas Town

A crucial point to understand before you visit is that Bocas del Toro shouldn’t be viewed as a single destination, but as a series of them.

The boats and ferry from Almirante all arrive at the docks in Bocas Town on Isla Colón. This is the main urban hub and tourism centre in Bocas del Toro, but we really don’t recommend this as a base (although there are good spots elsewhere on the island!)

The four principal tourism islands of the archipelago - Isla Colón, Carenero, Bastimentos, and Solaré - are just 5-10 minute water taxi away from each other; Carenero is literally just across the water from Colon.

The transport between these islands is by water taxi, and these charge non-locals a minimum $5 per person for a boat ride, almost from any island to any island (Colon to Carenero is a little less). You can hop on a shared one or a private one, and the price is usually the same.

It’s more expensive than it should be, but there’s no haggling to be had.

However, some accommodations have their own water taxis to collect guests and bring them straight over.

This means, before travelling to Bocas del Toro, you need to:

1. have a good idea of where you’re going to staying the first night (or longer)

2. ideally have it booked in advance

3. contact them in advance to confirm onward connections

They’ll advise which is the best dock to go to in Bocas Town - some serve specific islands, whilst others are more about private fares and don’t know every place - as well as let you know if they’ve got a private dock to tell the driver to take you to (this is quite common - our amazing Airbnb does this, as does the popular hostel, Bambuda Lodge.)

If coming from the airport, you’ll find the docks on Main Street, with several operators situated either side of La Buga Gastro Market.

If staying on Isla Colón, you can find taxis, your accommodation may offer a transfer or - depending on luggage - consider renting a scooter on arrival.

Know | It’s a good idea to withdraw a decent wedge of cash before starting your journey from mainland Panama to Bocas del Toro, but you’ll also find several ATMs on Main Street.

Top Tip // It can be a wet ride to the other islands, and Bocas del Toro (sorry to break it to you) has a rather different climate from the rest of Panama in the November to March/April peak season. Rain showers are common, and it’s a good idea to have your rainjacket handy generally, but especially on boat rides if the heavens suddenly open.

Which Route to Bocas del Toro Is Best for You?

• Short trip → fly from Panama City

• Budget traveller → bus + boat from David or Boquete

• Almirante → boats quick and frequent, ferry cheaper and slower

• Quickest → book the shuttle + boat combo to Bocas del Toro

• Wildcard → stay at Lost + Found Hostel on the way

• Roadtrip → take the ferry, store in Almirante, or drop-off in David.

• Central America backpacker → cross over from Costa Rica

Travel Better in Bocas del Toro

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Bocas del Toro (published soon)

Where to Stay in Bocas del Toro (published soon)

Travel More in Panama

Reaching the island of Ischia from Naples is straightforward once you understand how the ferry system works, but there are enough small variables - multiple ports, different boat types, and several arrival points on the island - that it’s worth getting your bearings before booking anything.

A little planning here saves time, stress, and the very real possibility of arriving at the wrong port with a suitcase and no obvious way forward!

Throughout the year, three ferry companies - SNAV, Medmar, and Alilauro - run regular services between Naples and Ischia, using a mix of fast hydrofoils and slower car ferries. Choosing the right combination depends less on price and more on where you’re staying on the island, how much luggage you have, and how much time you want to spend on the water.

In this short routes guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know before booking the boat from Naples to Ischia, plus a few tips to make the trip smoother.

Choosing the Right Departure Port in Naples

As well as being one of our very favourite cities in the world, Naples is also the main gateway to Ischia.

Ferries to the island don’t all leave from the same place though: Naples has three separate ferry ports that connect to the island, and confusing them is one of the most common (and avoidable) mistakes travellers make.

For most visitors, Molo Beverello is the best option. Located just outside the historic centre - find it here on Google Maps - this is where the fast hydrofoils depart. These boats are designed for foot passengers, are relatively comfortable, and take around 50 – 75 minutes to reach Ischia Porto and slightly longer if they continue on to other ports. Services run frequently throughout the day, making it the most flexible choice if you’re working around train arrivals or flight schedules.

The slower ferries depart from Calata Porta di Massa, a larger port that handles vehicles as well as foot passengers. These crossings take closer to 90–100 minutes and are less appealing for short stays or day trips, but they’re cheaper, calmer in rough seas, and essential if you’re travelling with a car or scooter. This port is located here.

Do be aware that whilst Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa are technically close to each other, walking between the two with luggage wouldn’t be easy, so double-check which one your ferry leaves from before arriving at the port - signage isn’t always obvious, and the last thing you want to do is drag a suitcase across a busy multi-lane road in 35°C heat!

The third option is Pozzuoli (maps), which sits further west of the city. While Ischia ferries do run from here, it’s usually only convenient if you’re staying nearby; for most visitors based in central Naples, it just adds unnecessary travel time.

Read Next // 13 Wonderful Things to Do in Ischia

Hydrofoil or Ferry?

Once you’ve chosen your departure port in Naples, the next decision is the type of boat.

Hydrofoils are by far the most popular choice and are ideal if you’re travelling light. They’re quick, frequent, and get you onto the island with minimal fuss. The trade-off is stricter luggage rules; anything larger than a small backpack usually attracts a small surcharge, payable at check-in, but this isn’t a major issue.

The slower ferries from Porta di Massa are less polished but more forgiving. They accept cars, scooters, and bulky luggage, and they tend to offer a smoother ride in choppy conditions. If you’re prone to seasickness or travelling with oversized bags, they’re often the more comfortable option, even if they do take longer.

Know // You can book directly with the operators, or use an aggregator such as FerryHopper or Direct Ferries, which makes it easier to compare times and departure points across all companies.

Understanding Ischia’s Three Ports

Just as important as knowing where you leave from is knowing where you need to arrive.

Ischia has three ferry ports, and they’re spread across the island rather than clustered together. When booking your ticket, you need to ensure you’ve chosen the right one for your needs and a service that actually arrives there!

Ischia Porto (maps) is the main hub and the arrival point for most hydrofoils. Located on the east coast, it’s the busiest port and also the most practical, with excellent onward bus connections and easy access to taxis. If you’re not renting a vehicle on the island, or if this is your first visit, arriving here keeps things simple.

Casamicciola Terme (maps) is smaller and quieter, and closer to some of the island’s thermal spa parks. It works well if your accommodation is nearby on the north coast, but ferry services are less frequent and onward transport options more limited.

On the west coast, Forio (maps) is very convenient if you’re staying in that town or part of the island (like we did), but not all ferry services stop here. In fact, Forio has few fewer services than Ischia Porto, particularly later in the day. This is also important to note for your ferry back to the mainland!

Knowing which port you need - and paying attention during intermediate stops - is super important. It’s surprisingly common for travellers to step off at the wrong port in Ischia and only realise once the ferry pulls away!

In a similar vein, the spread out nature of the three ports means booking your accommodation before you book your ferry is the best idea.

Read Next // Where to Stay in Ischia

Tickets, Prices, and Booking Advice

Hydrofoil tickets typically cost around €22 - €25 per person for a one-way journey. Slower ferries are usually a little cheaper. Tickets can be purchased in person at the ports, but during summer, weekends, and school holidays, booking ahead is strongly recommended.

This is even more important if you want a seat on a specific service or are taking a boat to Forio.

You can book directly with the operators, or use an aggregator such as FerryHopper or Direct Ferries, which makes it easier to compare times and departure points across all companies.

Printed tickets aren’t necessary, but it’s wise to have a digital copy saved offline. Delays and last-minute changes are not uncommon, particularly if sea conditions deteriorate, so building a little flexibility into your plans is sensible.

Plan // 11 Essential Travel Tips for Ischia

Day Trips and Other Routes

Ischia can be visited as a day trip from Naples, but the island is bigger than most expect and travel between towns takes time. This is why we recommend a minimum of two or three nights.

If you’re limited to a single day though, arriving and departing from Ischia Porto offers the most flexibility - or better still, take an organised tour like this one so you can avoid having to worry about logistics, and instead focus on enjoying Ischia.

There are also ferry connections from nearby islands such as Procida and Capri which are useful if you’re island-hopping, though Naples remains the most straightforward gateway.

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There are certain places where turning up without a plan, bookings or real idea of what to expect can be part of the fun: Ischia isn’t one of them.

Whilst it has all the hallmarks of a laidback southern Italian island - think beaches designed for full days rather than a quick dip, a plethora of excellent seafood restaurants perfect for long, wine-fuelled lunches, and lungomares designed for a slow passegiata come golden hour - Ischia is also much bigger than many people expect. This means getting around from beach to beauty spot takes more time than you might think, ferries don’t all arrive at the same port, and a few other surprises.

That’s why we’ve we’ve written this post.

After our own stay, we’ve pulled together the sort of advice we wish we’d known before arriving - the practical, occasionally unglamorous stuff that helps you plan more confidently and enjoy your time on the island once you’re there. Like how to get from Naples to the right ferry terminal without sprinting across town, why that beach that looks “right there” on the map might actually involve 150 vertical steps, and what to expect when you try to board a packed bus in 34-degree heat.

We’ll cover which areas are best to stay in (spoiler: it matters more than you think), how to navigate the island’s surprisingly extensive and indispensable bus network, and why you might want to buy your own beach umbrella. You’ll also find out why it’s probably not worth coming on a day trip, what kind of food to seek out (it’s not just pizza), and which thermal spa charges nearly €50 just to get in.

Some of these tips will help you plan your days better. Others might just save you from the sort of minor meltdowns that happen when your sunlounger budget has disappeared before lunch, and Google Maps insists there’s a shortcut that’s actually a goat path!

So, whether you’re visiting for two days or ten, we hope this guide helps you make the most of your time in Ischia - or at the very least, helps you avoid standing in the wrong ferry queue.

This is 11 Things To Know Before You Visit Ischia.

Getting to Ischia: Ferries, Tickets, and Ports

Once you’re in Naples, reaching Ischia is relatively straightforward, but there are a few important things to know that’ll make the journey a lot easier.

There are three ferry ports on the mainland that connect to Ischia:

• Molo Beverello for fast hydrofoils

• Porta di Massa for slower ferries that accept vehicles

• Pozzuoli which is slightly further out from Naples

Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa are close to each other in the city, but not easily walkable from one to the other with luggage, so double-check which one your ferry leaves from before arriving at the port - signage isn’t always obvious, and the last thing you want to do is drag a suitcase across a busy multi-lane road in 35°C heat.

The hydrofoils are quickest (around 50-60 minutes) and more comfortable for foot passengers, but they have stricter luggage rules and you’ll often be charged a few euro extra for anything bigger than a small backpack. The slower ferries take around 90-100 minutes, but they’re cheaper and accept cars, scooters, and bulky luggage. If you're prone to seasickness, they're also usually a safer bet for a smooth ride.

Whilst you’ll see plenty of people turning up and buying their tickets on the day, during the summer or at weekends it’s definitely best to book tickets in advance. You can buy direct from operators like Caremar, Alilauro, or Medmar - or compare all schedules and tickets on a site like FerryHopper. You don’t need to print your ticket, but definitely have a digital copy to hand (preferably downloaded already). Also, be aware that delays and last-minute changes are fairly common, particularly if the sea is rough.

The most important point to be aware of before booking anything though is that Ischia also has three ports:

• Ischia Porto (maps) | The busiest, most connected, and a good base if you’re not planning to rent a vehicle - the majority of hydrofoils dock here.

• Casamicciola Terme (maps) | Quieter and closer to some spa parks, but with fewer ferry connections

• Forio (maps) | A handy option if you’re staying on the west coast - like us - but not all ferries stop here.

Knowing which port your ferry arrives at - and how that relates to onward travel for your accommodation - can save you a lot of hassle and extra expense once you land on the island (it’s also quite common for people to accidentally disembark at the wrong port).

This is why booking your accommodation before you book your ferry is the best idea.

Keep Reading // We’ll be writing a full guide on how to get to Ischia (published soon)

Choose the Right Area to Stay

As we mentioned, Ischia is a lot bigger than you might expect, so where you stay can really affect your experience - especially if you're not planning to rent a scooter or car.

• Ischia Porto is the island’s main town and transport hub. It’s busy and touristic, but convenient with plenty of restaurants, shops, and ferry access. It’s not the prettiest place on the island, but if you’re only staying a couple of nights or want to explore other areas by bus, it does the job well.

• Forio, on the west coast, has a much more relaxed feel. It’s a great all-rounder with pretty streets, some lovely churches, excellent sunsets, and easy access to several of the best beaches. This is where we chose to base ourselves (in this apartment) and we were really happy with our decision.

• Sant’Angelo is car-free, quiet, and more upmarket - a cluster of pastel buildings and boutiques on a rocky peninsula. It’s beautiful, but you’ll need to walk down from the main road (and back up again), and food and accommodation here are more expensive than elsewhere. It wouldn’t be a great base for our travel style, but for those looking for a certain type of Ischia holiday, it will be absolutely perfect.

• Casamicciola Terme is a solid choice if you want to be close to the thermal spas without Sant’Angelo prices. It’s also a good base for inland hikes or visiting villages.

• Lacco Ameno, just along the coast from Casamicciola, is small, elegant, and known for its boutique hotels, leafy streets, and proximity to a few of the island’s better spa options. It’s also home to the famous Negombo thermal park. While it feels a little more polished and resort-like, it’s a good middle-ground if you want something stylish but not too overdeveloped.

• Barano and Serrara Fontana are up in the hills and far more rural. You’ll find vineyards, peaceful walking trails, and a much slower pace - perfect if you're after somewhere quiet and don’t mind being away from the coast (Ischia really is defined by its countryside as much as its shoreline).

Each area has its pros and cons, so it’s worth working out what kind of trip you want - beaches, spas, walks, boat trips, long lazy meals, lots of day trips - and choosing your base accordingly. And if you’re relying on public transport, double-check that your accommodation is on or near a main bus route.

Keep Reading // Our 'Where to Stay in Ischia' guide has personally picked recommendations in each base to suit every style and budget.

Public Transport is Good - But It Has Its Quirks

For a small island, Ischia has a surprisingly extensive bus network, and it’s the main way to get around the island if you’re not driving or renting any vehicles.

The most useful lines are the CS (Circolare Sinistra, counter-clockwise) and CD (Circolare Destra, clockwise) buses that loop clockwise and anti-clockwise around the island. They pass through most of the major towns and beaches, while other lines connect you to smaller villages or go inland toward Mount Epomeo or Maronti Beach.

Tickets must be bought before boarding, and Ischia still operates on the old school Italian model of only making these available to buy from from newsstands, tabacchis, bars, and hotel desks. Due to a vendor not always being available or obvious, it’s worth working out if you’ll need a few singles or a certain type of multi-day pass when you first come across one.

As of 2026, fares are:

• Single ticket (no changes) / €1.70

• 100-minute ticket (permits connections) / €2.10

• Daily pass (unlimited buses) / €5.10

• 3-day pass / €11.00

• Weekly pass / €14.50

Tickets must be validated on the little machines once you’re on the bus. We must say that it is also possible to buy tickets from the driver on the bus for €2 but due to the issue we’ll mention next, it’s often not possible.

Basically, the buses in Ischia are often very very busy in summer. Between 10am and 6pm, they’re often standing room only - if you can even board - and wait times can be long. We were left stranded at the stop quite a few times when drivers simply couldn’t take on any more passengers. Add in that the air conditioning is hit and miss, and journey times can be longer than expected due to traffic and narrow roads, and it can sometimes be a horribly crowded, uncomfortable, and sweaty way to spend your holiday.

Our sympathy lies primarily with the locals who depend daily on these buses though, and they must get really pissed off.

That said, it doesn’t mean you should avoid taking the bus in Ischia as it’s a super affordable and practical way to get around the island.

Instead, our advice is to start early and, instead of being too ambitious about how much you can cover in a day by bus, plan around visiting one or two areas.

If the buses don’t sound appealing, there are some alternatives:

• Taxis are everywhere, but they’re expensive. Prices are fixed, clearly listed at official taxi ranks and the drivers really don’t seem to want to negotiate (trust us, we tried). We really recommend trying to limit the number you take though, as unless you have a very large travel budget, daily trips will quickly eat into your cash. Note that Uber doesn’t work here.

• Scooters are a popular and genuinely fun way to explore Ischia. We spent a couple of glorious days zipping around the island’s winding roads and loved the freedom two wheels gave us. That said, Ischia is hilly and narrow in parts, so it’s best suited to those with a bit of scooter confidence. Rental is about $25-30 per day, but cheaper the longer you have it.

• Rental cars are obviously possible, but just note that parking can be both challenging and expensive in places, and they’re not ideal or enjoyable on some of the narrow countryside and village roads versus a zippy little scooter.

• Walking is fine for short stretches, but don’t expect a gentle coastal stroll. Roads between towns often have no pavements, steep inclines, and blind bends. On our first day in Ischia we decided to walk between Forio and La Mortella gardens and it was a tad stressful to say the least! That said, hiking trails inland are a different story - and a great way to experience a quieter side of the island.

• Exploring the island by boat is a popular and practical way to go, especially if you want to focus on the coast and avoid crowded buses. This is a super highly-rated excursion from Forio, whilst this is a good alternative if it’s already sold out.

Ischia Is Big - Don’t Try to See It All in Two Days

One of the most common mistakes people make is underestimating just how big Ischia is.

At 46 square kilometres, it’s significantly larger than nearby Procida or Capri, and it’s not a place where you can tick everything off in a weekend. The island is mountainous and winding, and distances that look short on a map can easily take 45 minutes to cover by bus. If you’re walking or scootering, expect things to take even longer - not because they’re far, but because the terrain will slow you down.

This is an island of corners and gradients and sharp turns. It’s made for pottering and lingering, not rushing from one side to the other in a single afternoon.

If you actually want to relax - to enjoy a spa park, stretch out on a beach, wander through a town, and make it back in time for aperitivo - give yourself at least four or five days. That’s long enough to see a few different parts of the island, find your favourite beach, and feel like you’ve properly been to Ischia, not just passed through it.

…And That’s Why You Really Shouldn’t Visit on a Day Trip

Ischia might technically be reachable from Naples in under an hour by fast ferry, but that doesn’t mean it’s suited to a quick visit.

To start with, you lose a lot of time in transit. Even on a well-timed day trip, you’re spending around three to four hours just getting to and from the island - and that’s assuming the ferries run on time, which they sometimes don’t. Once you arrive, you’ll only have a few hours to explore, and most of that will be spent within walking distance of the main port.

But more importantly, Ischia isn’t a ‘one-town’ island. What makes it special is the variety: soaking in natural thermal pools, watching the sunset in Forio, hiking above the vineyards inland, or having a long seafood lunch by the water in Sant’Angelo. That diversity takes time to appreciate.

If you only come for the day, you’ll likely end up with a rushed walk around Ischia Porto and maybe an hour on a nearby beach, and missing out on much that gives the island its real character.

So yes, you can visit Ischia on a day trip from Naples or Sorrento - and you’ll see a variety of tours available online. But, unless your goal is simply to tick off another island in southern Italy, you’re far better off planning a proper stay. Even just two or three nights will make a huge difference.

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Ischia

Ischia Is Beautiful, But…

We’d dreamt of Ischia for years.

A sun-soaked volcanic island surrounded by clear water, dotted with beaches, and famed for its thermal springs, it had long sat on our list of must-visit places for a classic Italian summer.

But if we’re honest, it didn’t quite live up to the version we’d imagined.

That’s not to say it isn’t beautiful - it absolutely is. But for us, something didn’t quite land.

In many parts, Ischia felt more like one large holiday resort than the kind of place with the slower, lived-in charm we’ve come to adore in other corners of Italy. The towns are polished and often feel built to cater to tourism, and while they’re easy to enjoy, they sometimes felt like they lacked that layer of lived-in character or scruffiness that can make places feel a little more special.

It’s also a destination that clearly trends older. Perhaps because of the spas, the pace, the time of year we visited, or just the overall style of holiday it offers but we found ourselves among mostly older visitors; the island didn’t have the energy we tend to connect with when travelling in summer.

All that said, we’re still glad we went.

Ischia has its moments - beautiful west coast sunsets, long seafood lunches, and beaches that feel like they haven’t changed in decades - and it’s undeniably striking in parts. It just didn’t quite grab us in the way we’d hoped or expected given our time in Calabria, Puglia, and Sicily.

But that’s not to say it won’t grab you.

Travel isn’t always about falling in love with every place - it’s about figuring out what resonates, and what doesn’t. And sometimes that clarity can be just as valuable.

Bring Your Own Beach Kit (and Be Prepared to Pay for Sand)

Ischia has a wide range of beaches, from sandy stretches to rocky coves and pebbly thermal pools. What many travellers don’t realise is that free beach space is limited, especially in high season.

The island is full of lidos, beach clubs that rent out sun loungers and umbrellas for the day. Prices vary, but expect to pay between €20-30 per person in the peak summer months, depending upon the particular beach and your position on the sand. In return, you get facilities like toilets, changing rooms, showers, and often a bar or small restaurant.

If you’re keen to save your holiday cash for meals, activities and the quintessential pre-dinner aperitivo - or you haven’t quite gotten on board with the whole Italian lido thing yet - you’ll be pleased to know that there are also free beaches (spiagge libere) in Ischia, but they can be small, crowded, or less appealing. Some, like parts of Spiaggia dei Maronti, offer both free and paid zones whilst others like Cava dell’Isole are entirely lido-free.

To save money and be more comfortable, bring your own beach mat, umbrella, and water shoes; the latter are essential for many of the pebbly or rocky access points, especially at Sorgeto or Cartaromana. A dry bag and small change for beachside lockers or facilities are also useful.

Keep Reading // Our Guide to the Best Beaches in Ischia

Embrace the Thermal Springs and Spa Culture

Ischia’s reputation as a spa island is well deserved. Thanks to its volcanic geology, there are dozens of natural thermal springs and mud pools across the island, and several have been developed into expansive spa parks.

The most well-known are:

• Poseidon Gardens (Forio / maps) | The largest, with over 20 pools, a private beach, and beautiful terraced gardens.

• Negombo (Lacco Ameno / maps) | A little smaller, more considered option in a wonderful botanical setting with a more relaxed feel.

• Castiglione (between Casamicciola and Ischia Porto / maps) | We didn’t personally see this spa, but it was recommended as a more affordable park with great views and a more local atmosphere.

A full-day entrance ticket typically costs around €40 - 50 during peak summer months, although some parks offer discounts for afternoon visits. Remember to also factor in spending on food, drinks, towels and lockers etc.

If you’re visiting on a budget, Baia di Sorgeto is the island’s best-known free thermal spot. Hot water seeps from the rocks straight into the sea, creating naturally heated rock pools - and while the steps down are steep and the rocks underfoot aren’t the comfiest, it’s a unique and memorable experience. Just know that it gets very busy in peak season, and space is limited.

Many hotels on the island also have their own thermal pools, so if spa access is a priority, it’s worth filtering for properties that include this in the room rate - we'‘ve shared several in the ‘Where To Stay in Ischia’ post.

The spas mentioned above do not require you to wear a swim cap, but they are mandatory in some located within hotels (they’re not flattering, but everyone’s in the same boat).

Don’t Skip the Inland Villages

While most visitors understandably focus on the coast, Ischia’s interior is full of quiet villages, vineyards, and mountain trails that show a more traditional, agricultural side of island life.

Places like Serrara Fontana, Panza, and Buonopane feel a world away from the beach clubs and crowds. These villages offer panoramic viewpoints, unpretentious trattorias, and walking trails that pass through chestnut groves, terraced gardens, and ancient paths.

One of the best ways to explore inland Ischia is on a hike to Mount Epomeo, the island’s highest peak. The route from Fontana is well-marked and takes about 1.5 - 2 hours each way. At the summit, you’ll find a small bar carved into the rock and some of the best views over the island and Bay of Naples.

Even if you’re not up for a hike, it’s worth venturing inland for a few hours - especially in the late afternoon when the light softens and the day-trippers have gone.

Plan // Find out more and other unmissable experiences in 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Ischia

Dining Out | Think Local and Seasonal

Ischia’s food scene is grounded in local produce, fresh seafood, and age-old recipes, often with a rustic, home-cooked feel rather than fine dining polish. While you’ll find classic Neapolitan dishes like pizza and gnocchi alla Sorrentina almost everywhere, the island’s most rewarding meals usually come from family-run trattorias serving what’s in season and from nearby land or sea.

A few dishes worth seeking out:

• Coniglio all’ischitana. Although we’re pescetarians, it would be remiss of us not to mention Ischia’s signature dish: rabbit stewed slowly with white wine, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, and chilli. Traditionally cooked in terracotta pots, it’s found mostly in inland restaurants and apparently goes particularly well with local red wine.

• Spaghetti alle vongole. A coastal classic made with fresh clams, garlic, white wine, and parsley. Often simple, but when it’s fresh, it’s unforgettable.

• Zucchini flowers, frittura di paranza (mixed fried fish), and insalata di mare are common starters, especially in beachside restaurants.

• Having arrived in Ischia from Procida, where lemons are everywhere, we were a little surprised to discover that Ischian limoncello is also very much a thing here.

• Local white wines like Biancolella, Forastera, and San Lunardo are light, crisp, and made to be drunk with seafood in the sunshine.

Restaurants tend to open late. While you’ll always find a few hungry tourists tucking into dinner before sunset, Italians and those in the know generally don’t show up until 8-8.30pm. If you’re starving but want to blend in, go for an aperitivo first - you’ll usually get a decent round of snacks alongside your drink and it’s the proper way to be in Italy.

Visit in the Shoulder Season for the Best Experience

Mid-July through to the end of August is Ischia at its most intense with packed beaches, overflowing buses, and restaurants booked out long before 9pm. It’s hot, buzzy, and a bit much unless you’re really into peak-season energy.

That’s why most advice points to the shoulder season being the best time to visit - and we’d agree, to a point.

We were there in late September, and while the weather was still good and the sea warm, the island felt surprisingly subdued. Italian holidaymakers had gone home, a few restaurants were already closing for the season, and some beaches felt a bit too empty if you’re after those classic summer scenes. Ischia doesn’t carry quite the same buzz into autumn that we’ve experienced elsewhere in Italy - and for us, that was unexpected.

The first two weeks of September are probably ideal: the summer atmosphere is still hanging on, but the chaos of August is behind you. Alternatively, late June or early July should strike a nice balance between warm weather, lively evenings, and still-manageable crowds.

If you’re not in it for the beaches, though, spring and autumn are great for hiking - especially around Mount Epomeo or the inland villages. The trails are cooler, quieter, and incredibly scenic.

Just keep in mind that between late October and March, the island slows right down. Ferry schedules are reduced, many hotels and restaurants close, and the weather becomes more unpredictable. If you do visit in winter, it’s best to lean into the quiet with spa time, cliff walks, and reading on the balcony rather than big days out.

Travel Better in Ischia and Nearby

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The Best Beaches in Ischia

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7 Dreamy Day Trips From Naples

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For years, we’ve criss-crossed Central America by bus, boat, and by our own two feet.

Despite travelling extensively across the region, we’d somehow never seriously considered renting a car there - partly because we always assumed it would be tricky or too expensive, partly because it didn’t fit backpacker routes, and partly because slowly getting around with its unique blend of public transport is a significant element of the travel experience.

But here at Along Dusty Roads, we really do love a road trip - and it quickly became clear that Panama was (mostly) built for it.

The roads are solid, distances manageable, and the canal country’s skinny, stretched shape lends itself well to plotting a route from capital to coast and countryside. Having your own car also buys extra flexibility, letting you gain a couple of extra days and experiences that the limitations of public transport simply can’t offer.

However, this post isn’t about the many reasons why a Panama road trip is a good idea (that’s covered here), but rather about the practicalities of driving over there, along with clear, experienced-led advice on renting a car and planning your route.

Think of it as your essential driving manual for Panama.

We’ll share everything we learned from our two-week road trip to save you time, stress, and money. From what to expect on the roads, where to pick up a car, surprising obstacles, unexpected logistical quirks, security tips, how (and if) you should include Bocas del Toro, and a definitive answer on whether a 4×4 is actually necessary, this guide will give you the insights to make your own decision and head out confidently behind the wheel.

There’s also one hard-earned insider tip that’s guaranteed to help you avoid an unwanted police stop.

This is everything to know before driving in Panama.

How Much Is Car Rental & Do You Really Need One?

Is renting a car realistic, necessary, or affordable for your own Panama adventure?

The honest truth is that it won’t suit every traveller’s budget and, for some Panama itineraries, it won’t be worthwhile.

You can get almost everywhere with buses, shuttles, boats, tours, and if you’re on a shorter itinerary, one or two brief internal flights.

But, for certain travel styles and itineraries, having your own wheels will open up parts of Panama and give you a different sort of experience. For us, it made all the difference exploring the Azuero Peninsula, packing in early-morning hikes in El Valle, and getting around Boquete. Relying on public or private transport schedules can seriously limit flexibility and how much you can cover in a day, especially if you have remote beaches or surf spots in your sights.

We left booking late and paid £541/ $660 for 15 days (£36 / $44 per day). Cheaper deals were still available, but our route required picking up and dropping off in different cities, which narrowed our options on hire companies significantly. On top of that, we had to pay a chunky one-way drop-off fee (more on that later).

At time of writing though, you can actually get a 15-day rental from Panama City’s main airport for the insanely low price of £99 / $122 - though the average is closer to £150-300 / $130-370.

Shuttle buses in Panama are actually more expensive than you might expect from travels in other Central American countries. If you want to compare costs or run the numbers, check out Bookaway and HelloTravelPanama.

Know // Most Panama rental companies allow drivers 23 years and above, though anyone under 25 usually pays a young driver surchage. A few companies will rent to younger drivers though. You don’t usually need an International Driving Permit (IDP) if your licence is in English or Spanish, but it’s recommended for non-Spanish licenses and can help avoid headaches if stopped by police. This is especially true if your licence uses a different alphabet or script.

Pick-Up in Panama City or David

In Panama, there are really only two main rental hubs - Panama City and David - and outside of these, options are quite limited.

Where you pick up your car can therefore have a bigger impact than you might expect on price, convenience, and how smooth the first few days of your road trip feel

Tocumen International Airport, 23km outside Panama City, hosts the widest range of local and international car hire companies and usually offers the cheapest deals and best vehicle range. If you are planning to fly in and hit the road immediately, that’s where you should be looking.

However - and this is important - you don’t want to saddle yourself with a rental car while staying in Panama City.

Thankfully, there are several downtown car rental offices within Panama City, meaning it will be better for some travellers to spend a few days in the capital first, then just pick up a rental car before they leave. Unless renting in Tocumen Airport gives a much cheaper overall deal, going back there is going to be a waste of time and money as almost every road trip heads west from the airport anyway, which means driving through the heart of Panama City toward the coast or coffee country.

The main exception is for travellers planning to visit the San Blas Islands independently, which involves driving to Puerto de Cartí. However, road conditions and logistics mean this isn’t impractical for most people (we cover why in more detail here).

The small city of David is Panama’s other major rental hub, and worth considering if you’re crossing overland from Costa Rica or flying in from elsewhere in Latin America. There are around six rental companies here, though choice is limited and costs usually higher compared to Panama City.

Finally, there are a few local rental offices in places like Playa Venao and Boquete. These can make sense if you only want a car for a specific region - particularly in Boquete, where having your own wheels is genuinely useful - but prices may be higher and availability more limited.

Travel Tip // We use Rentalcars and AutoEurope for all our car rentals, and they make it easier to weigh up fees, pick-up locations, and availability at a glance. They somehow also regularly turn up rates that are cheaper than going direct. If you want more general stress-reducing tips and money-saving advice, then make sure to read our 9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers

You Don’t Need A Car in Panama City

If you plan on hiring a car, this will have a direct effect on your Panama itinerary.

Essentially, your time in Panama City will have to come at the beginning or end of the trip. You simply don’t need (or want) the hassle of a car in the gridlocked and congested capital, especially if you’re staying in Casco Viejo. Further, as nearly everyone pairs Panama City with the San Blas islands, you run the risk of paying for a rental car that you just won’t need for several days.

This is one reason why, after several itinerary re-writes, we decided to fly into Panama City, pick up our rental at the airport, and head straight to El Valle de Anton, thus saving the capital and San Blas for the end, once we’d dropped the car off elsewhere.

Of course, you could flip this and decide to spend your first days car-free in the capital and over in San Blas, then pick up your rental car!

And if you insist on having a car in the capital? Then just make sure your accommodation has parking, and don’t plan on driving it through Casco Viejo..

The One-Way Fee Fandango

The best-value car rentals in Panama almost always involve picking up and dropping off in the same location, and if you’re flying in and out of Panama City, it’s entirely possible to design a loop itinerary to suit this.

The complication is that two of Panama’s most popular destinations - San Blas and Bocas del Toro - are archipelagos only accessible by boat or plane. Trying to include both on a single road trip quickly throws a logistical spanner in the works.

There are a few ways to approach this dilemma, and despite our trip starting and ending at Tocumen Airport, we decided that for the road trip portion we’d pick up our car in Panama City and drop it off in David. Logistically, it made sense: we could get rid of the car after two weeks, head over to Bocas del Toro for a few days, fly back to Panama City, then finish with the San Blas Islands before returning home to Britain.

Financially, though, it hurt.

The main culprit was the hideous one-way drop-off fee in David - $281 / £227 - combined with the fact that needing to drop the car there drastically reduced our rental options. Many of the cheaper car hire companies in Panama don’t have offices in David at all, which immediately ruled them out and pushed prices up.

Ultimately, it removed all the ‘wow, that’s a good deal’ prices from consideration, and deciding to pay that one-way fee wasn’t a fun decision to make. However, doing it this way bought us two extra full days in Bocas and San Blas, instead of spending that time driving back purely to catch flights, so there was a method to the madness.

And, in the end, most of the extra cost of the Bocas - Panama City flights was offset by avoiding the parking fees, return boat trip, extra fuel and rental days necessary if we had done the round-trip route.

(it’s worth noting that we’ve since seen the one-way fee at $150-200, which won’t sting as much)

Would getting a round-trip rental and using the Boas ferry or Almirante parking have worked out cheaper over overall though? Absolutely.

The takeaway here is simple: only pay a one-way fee if it meaningfully improves your itinerary. If it doesn’t save you days - or meaningfully add experiences - it’s probably not worth it over a loop.

Plan // Our (Almost) Perfect Panama Itinerary

The Bocas Del Toro Conundrum

If you're already set on renting a car in Panama, then your biggest logistical issue is working out what to do for Bocas Del Toro.

The famous archipelago off the northwest of the country is only accessible by passenger boat, a small ferry, or plane, and you can’t get or use a car on most of the islands.

This was the biggest conundrum we faced when planning our Panama road trip route and working out our budget, resulting in several re-writes of our itinerary.

If money isn’t an issue, the easiest solution is just keep the car and leave it at one of several parking lots in Almirante (where the Bocas del Toro boats depart and return). We really weren’t certain about the set-up or reliability of these lots when planning, and it seemed like a waste to pay for both the rental and parking whilst the car was just sat over on the mainland for five days!

That’s ultimately why we decided to do the one-way car rental between Panama City and David. After dropping it off, we took the bus up to Almirante and boat over to Bocas del Toro. As mentioned, we then flew from Bocas del Toro back to Panama City, spending our final days across the capital and the San Blas islands.

In order to clarify things for our readers though, we personally visited two of the car parks by the docks in Almirante. The situation became a lot clearer and, whilst nothing fancy, they specialise in tourists and locals leaving their cars whilst over on the islands. Although we could never give a 100% guarantee on security, they were legit and have great reviews on Google Maps (here and here). One owner we spoke to said you usually don’t have to leave your keys, but if they are super super full, they may ask for them (we’d never suggest leaving them though as it probably voids your rental agreement and insurance).

Another option is to get a spot for your car on the small passenger ferry from Almirante to Isla Colón, but there are pros and cons.

The takeaway? Whether you leave it in Almirante or follow a version of our route, figure out how and when Bocas del Toro fits into your Panama trip before booking your rental car.

Plan // Find out more about the ferry, the car parks, and the other transport options in our short explainer: How To Get To Bocas del Toro, Panama

You Probably Don't Need a 4x4...

On European road trips, we usually plump for the shittest, cheapest, smallest car, because driving a Fiat Panda with 10,00 miles on the clock that's stuck to a single radio station is all you really need, and it sort of adds to the vibe.

For our Panama road trip though, we were more concerned about road conditions, access to remote coastal towns like Cambutal, and navigating the hills of Boquete. Research gave us a mixed bag of advice though: some said that a 4x4 was absolutely essential, whilst others said you’d easily get by without one.

To cover all bases - and, not gonna lie, for the aesthetic - we wanted a Suzuki Jimny 4x4, but it was out of our price range. Instead, we went for a Jeep T270 Sport: not a 4x4, but sturdier with higher clearance for several of the destinations on our route.

That choice was another reason our hire costs ran above average.

So, what was the reality on the ground? For our route in dry season (November-April), the car was absolutely fine and there was no need for a 4x4. A regular vehicle would also have done the job, and there were plenty locals driving the rougher roads in standard cars with no issues.

This means you can save quite of money on car hire overall.

That said, we definitely appreciated the clearance, power, and better suspension on several dusty roads that led to remote hikes and beaches. Some of those would have been more challenging, or even impassable, during the rainy season however, especially if churned up.

If you’re travelling during that season, or planning on visiting a bunch of off-the-beaten-track locations, opting for something with higher clearance and power will be a great help. However, if you’re a proper surfer planning on hitting up more remote breaks and beaches on the Azuero Peninsula, then a 4x4 is a much better bet.

Travel Tip / The model of car you book in advance on the websites is never a given, but you should be given a very similar type at the rental desk. Also, remember that not all SUVs are 4x4s.

Those Police Speed Gun Traps

This is almost certainly the most important thing to know about driving in Panama.

As far as we could tell, the country has no fixed speed cameras; instead, it has an awful lot of police hanging out at the side of the road with handheld speed guns.

Of course, we’re assuming you’re not heading to Panama planning to break the speed limit. But the reality is that driving in a foreign country, juggling unfamiliar roads, and trying not to crash or bash your hire car, can make it easy to miss a sign or realise you've changed road type. Sometimes, in trying to keep up with the flow of local drivers, you can also have a heavy foot.

In Panama though, these roadside speed check units are such a standout feature of the day-to-day driving experience that you really do have to be aware of them at all times.

The speed limits themselves are pretty straightforward once you know them: up to 100 km/h on stretches near Tocumen Airport and parts of the Pan-American, but mostly 60–80 km/h on highways, and dropping to 40 km/h around countryside towns and villages. Sign coverage is also pretty good.

The problem comes from the fact that the ‘transition’ points from one speed limit down to another aren’t always clear - and the cops definitely position themselves at points where they’re most likely to catch someone.

Thankfully, there’s a way to help you avoid being pulled off at the side of the road and fined…

Waze > Google Maps

It really is a very good idea to have an app called Waze downloaded on your phone

Whilst Google Maps is our go-to navigation app for road trips, all the locals and taxi drivers in Panama use and depend on Waze. This is primarily because the latter pings with updates of when and where other drivers have logged police checks on an upcoming on a stretch of road: they’re very accurate.

These alerts are particularly useful for those moments when you may innocently miss a sign saying the speed limit has dropped from 80 to 60 for a short stretch.

Google Maps also has some functionality on this, but it’s simply not as commonly-used or reliable.

An important point however is that the alerts require real-time notifications from live/recent driver feedback, so you can't rely on your downloaded offline version of Waze or Google Maps. Instead, you need to ensure your mobile data is switched on, which means having a local SIM is essential for at least one person on your road trip.

For this Panama trip though, we actually just opted for the convenience of an Airalo e-sim.

Note that on rural stretches, the ‘speed camera police’ are less common, but that doesn’t mean you can ignore them: the roads have plenty of other hazards, from potholes to livestock and pedestrians!

These speed checks are also why you can’t depend on the car’s in-built satnav to get around, and that app really will help keep you safely below the speed limit, avoid nasty surprises, and get you from A to B too.

Speeding Tickets in Panama

We often say at Along Dusty Roads that we make the mistakes so you don't have to, but there are limits to that! Thankfully, we didn't get any fines, but it means we aren't 100% certain how the process goes if you are flagged down.

Asking a few locals and taxi drivers later in the trip, there wasn’t a definitive answer. The car rental guy in David said it was $65 + IVA (7%) for Panama police speed fines - you don't have to pay on the day but are given a link to an online form - whilst a taxi driver said $75 total.

Of course, the process and prices may operate quite differently for foreigners…

If you have the misfortune of finding out, then do let us know what the actual fines are and how the process works!

There Are A Lot Of Potholes

Want to know when we switch off a political conversation at the pub? Whenever potholes - the dullest subject known to man - are brought up.

However, there's British potholes and then there are Panamanian potholes.

On pockmarked remote roads, some of these are crater-like in their size and depth, and really could damage a wheel. Some potholes even had their own pothole, and you’ll even find huge ones on the Pan-American highway. Anticipating and avoiding these is super important, with slowing and swerving being your best strategy.

However, this can cause issues when there’s an oncoming vehicle or one behind you that’s itching to overtake, so you’ve got to be aware at all times of your surroundings as well as what’s ahead.

Speedbumps are also quite common as a safety measure, particularly outside schools and when entering / exiting a small village. These don’t cause any issues - and thankfully nowhere as common as driving in Jordan - but can pop up unexpectedly.

Travel Tip / Want a less stressful road trip? Always get the car hire insurance - just not at the rental desk. It’ll cost you way more. We buy ours in advance on Insurance4CarHire to save money, whilst RentalCover is another provide to check out. For more on insurance, video checks, credit card deposits, and all the common mistakes to avoid, check out our 9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers.

The Honky Tonk Men

A quick flash of headlights or a short tap on the horn is common.

It might be a thank you. It might be a warning. It might be someone politely telling you they’re about to do something whether you’re ready or not. The problem is that the same tiny beep can mean all of those things.

Is it a salutation? A request? A pre-emptive “I’m coming through”? A taxi announcing its presence or admonishing you? Sometimes you’ll never know. The short practical honk is the universal language here amongst local drivers, and you’ll hear it constantly.

It can be difficult to discern though.

Also, whilst the British-style hand wave acknowledgement is rarely spotted, locals usually returned the gesture.

Travel Tip // We took over our little travel dashboard mobile phone holder to stay hands-free in the car

The Pan-American Highway & The PanaPass

The Pan-American Highway runs almost the entire length of Panama, forming the backbone of the country’s road network from the Costa Rican border to Panama City and beyond.

You’ll inevitably spend quite a bit of time driving on it, but the key to a good road trip here is not to spend all your time on it: make sure you take routes that lead through the countryside for scenery, insight, and the occasional random restaurant stop.

The main tip is that the right-hand lane is for slower vehicles, and that should be your default while you ease yourself into the road trip and local driving etiquette. On some parts, the speed limit is at 100km/h, but it’s more often at 80km/h. The section that involves driving through Panama City is the least enjoyable, with cars getting a bit too close and cramped for comfort at times.

The PanaPass is Panama’s electronic toll system - a windscreen-mounted tag that lets you drive through toll roads without stopping, with fees added to your rental bill. It should already be installed in your hire car and automatically scanned whenever you pass through tolls on the Pan-American Highway. Do clarify before setting off though. Tolls are an additional cost, calculated at the end of your rental; we knowingly passed through three or four and were charged $12.23, paid at drop-off in David.

How and when these PanaPass charges appear varies by rental company though, so it’s worth confirming the exact setup at the desk when you collect and drop-off. When dropping off, you should also confirm the amount to avoid a nasty surprise - let us know your experience in the comments!

Know // Despite being the January dry season, we had several tropical downpours and the windscreen wipers simply couldn’t keep up! You need to drop your speed right down until the weather passes.

Animal Obstacles

Panama’s roads come with a few unexpected traffic hazards - and not all of them have engines.

Dogs are a common sight, sometimes lounging at the roadside, and occasionally sleeping or mooching in the middle of the road (especially around El Valle de Anton). Slow down for them; they’ll eventually get up and move out of the way. Horses are also a wonderfully common sight, particularly in the hills and cowboy country of the Azuero Peninsula, often with riders casually guiding them along the side of the road.

And then there’s the little bird of prey that constantly plays chicken with you. Falcon-sized, it sits in the middle of the road before swooping up to a nearby tree at the last minute. Initially cute, we found ourselves slowing becoming more and more irrationally irritated by them! Locals told us it’s an eagle, but Google says it’s a yellow-headed Caracara. Any ornithologists able to tell us definitively?

Know // The road to the beach, surf, and diving village of Santa Catalina remains long, dusty, and remote. In addition to doggies and horses, there are a fair few locals on bicycles and on foot, so you really do have to go slow out of consideration and concern for them. If you’re heading there, do go slow and try to keep a distance from other vehicles too, as stones and dust clouds are common.

Some Useful Spanish Road Signs To Know

Reduzca la velocidad | Ubiquitous yellow-and-black diamond sign meaning reduce your speed

Resumen su velocidad| Small yellow-and-black signs indicating you can resume normal speed after a slow zone

No estacionar / No estacionarse | Extremely common. Both mean no parking

Desvío | Detour

Alto | Stop

Ceda el paso | Give way - shown on the same inverted triangle sign used in many other countries

Cruce el ganado | Cattle crossing. Particularly common in ranching areas - we saw a lot of these driving along the southern coast between Cambutal, Santa Catalina and Boquete.

Esta Carretera no es un autopista | Big yellow and black sign on the dual-carriageways that looked highways, but actually weren’t, so different speed limits apply

There’s also a sign on four-lane highways that counts down to the only place where you can make a very conservative U-turn to switch over to the other side

Overtaking & Other Drivers

We did a road trip in Montenegro the same year, and the little Balkan country took home our award for the worst driving we’ve ever witnessed!

A lot of this came down to their bewildering approach to overtaking.

Thankfully, Panama’s drivers aren’t anywhere near that level, but there are still a few quirks and hazards to steel yourself for:

· some drivers have a proclivity to straddle the yellow line or go half-way over it - mostly on the wrong side of the road - leading to unnecessarily hairy moments / close calls when they're coming toward you around a corner. This seemed to be more prevalent amongst the 4x4s and pick-up truck crowd!

· on dual-lane highways, there are several signs stating that the left lane is for overtaking only, with drivers expected to promptly return to the right lane. Remember, for the first couple of days of your trip, the right lane will be your best friend until you get used to local speeds and styles.

· on those dual-lane roads, there’s a bit more weaving in/out and cutting in/off by some drivers - but it’s thankfully the minority. Some can also get a bit close for comfort when there’s zero need for it, and we witnessed several instances of someone overtaking between two vehicles on the highway. 

· you might see or get undertaken on the highway.

· if you need to pull into a lane or there's a junction with various vehicles unclear on who has right of way, you do have to be quite aggressive rather than expecting someone to let you go.

· if you’re on a remote or bad road and there’s a faster local behind you, do try to let them past when safe to do so - this makes life easier for everyone, but also lets your follow their line of travel if it’s a particularly potholed track.

· when trying to overtake or give space to a vehicle on the right, we occasionally got caught in the middle of a pincer movement due to a vehicle quickly coming up on our left side that didn’t see or anticipate us. This is something likely to occur on your road trip due to buses frequently slowing or emerging from their frequent and unannounced stops at the road side - often with half the bus still occupying the slow lane - and your best bet is to anticipate the pincer movement and drive accordingly, rather than get trapped between two vehicles.

· indicators often aren’t used.

Our best approach? Drive defensively, stay aware of surroundings, and always anticipate and expect others to do something a bit unexpected.

Roadworks & Filling Up

Roadworks and diversions seemed to be all over the country, and we encountered a form of them every driving day. This isn’t a big issue or a moan, but rather an observation on just how prevalent they were: some just fixing potholes, others replacing a major chunk of road that had slipped away.

Look out for bright orange signs and traffic cones, and be prepared to wait for oncoming traffic to pass first on single-lane sections. Sometimes there are men on both sides waving flags to manage traffic flow, so a little patience goes a long way.

Thankfully, these roadworks and diversions didn’t add significant delays to our anticipated travel times.

Travel Tip // A few petrol stations are self-service (auto-servicio) but most pumps are staffed by an attendant. Unlike in some countries, there’s no price difference whether you request service or not, and tipping isn’t expected (we didn’t).

In a rental car and unsure which side to fill up on? Check the little arrow on the fuel gauge - it points to the side of the car with the fuel cap!

Also, if you need a toilet stop along the way, keep an eye out for the modern coffee drive-thrus.

The Parking & Security Situation

We never had to pay for parking as there was almost always space on the roadside or even on the pavement. Some car parks are reserved for business or restaurant clients, but if there isn’t a ‘No Parking’ sign, you’ll usually be fine with a bit of common sense and awareness of your surroundings.

With regards to accommodations, most are usually quite upfront about disclosing whether they have private parking or at least an area nearby where you can leave your car but it is important to confirm this before making a reservation. This is especially true with apartments or hostels who may only have a limited amount of space for vehicles.

It’s definitely worth sending the host/owner a message before arriving at night, as some may need to open a gate for you.

The exception on parking will be for those planning on staying in Panama City for a few days whilst they’ve got a rental car. As mentioned, we don’t recommend being in the capital with a car, but if you will be it’s a good idea to choose an accommodation that offers guaranteed guest parking - absolutely do not assume that you’ll find on-street parking.

Disabled parking is clearly marked in towns and cities with blue paint, and there are actually more spots than you might expect.

In terms of security, all we can say is that we had no issues and weren’t overly concerned at any point. Obviously, don’t leave your valuables in the car or anything important on display when you’re away for a hike.

Know // if you’re planning a sunrise mission, make sure your hotel or hostel doesn’t keep the gates locked until the staff arrive at 7 am; we learned that the hard way in El Valle de Anton.

Driving in Panama: The Key Takeaways

• Panama is genuinely well suited to a road trip. Roads are in good condition, distances are manageable, and having a car gives you far more flexibility than public transport.

• You don’t need a car everywhere. Skip having one in Panama City and plan carefully around Bocas del Toro and the San Blas Islands.

• The cheapest rentals involve the same pick-up and drop-off location, usually Tocumen Airport. One-way rentals can work, but only if they meaningfully improve your itinerary.

• A 4×4 is not essential for most routes, particularly in the dry season. Higher clearance helps, but many travellers will be fine without one.

• Car hire insurance makes for a much less stressful trip, just don’t buy it at the rental desk where prices are significantly higher.

→ We compare prices and book using Auto Europe and Rentalcars

→ We buy standalone insurance through Insurance4CarHire or RentalCover

→ For deposits, video checks, insurance pitfalls, and common mistakes, read 9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers

Travel Better in Panama

Tocumen International is Panama’s main airport, and the most likely arrival point for travellers flying into the country to start their adventure.

More commonly known as Panama City Airport (IATA: PTY), it’s located about 23 km east of the city centre, meaning most visitors either pick up a rental car and get moving, or head straight into the capital to spend a few days.

Fortunately, there’s now a good (though little known) public transport connection between the airport and the city centre.

Whist Panama City itself can be a whirlwind, there’s a lot to enjoy between the sprawling blend of skyscrapers, colonial architecture in Casco Viejo, and modern causeway of the Cinta Costera. The capital is also the main base for travellers heading to the San Blas islands, so forms an essential part of every first-time itinerary.

In this short ‘routes’ post, we’ve shared the main options to travel from Panama City airport into the city itself - so whatever your budget, timing, Spanish abilities, or comfort level, you can quickly find the most convenient, cheapest, or quickest way to make your first day journey as smooth as possible before your adventures really begin!

Know // Whilst Tocumen is the main gateway, there’s are two other airports in Panama City: Albrook “Marcos A. Gelabert” (PAC) and Panamá Pacífico International Airport (BLB). These primarily serve domestic and regional flights, but double check your flight info before you set off!

How To Get From Tocumen International Airport to Panama City

Take the Metro from Tocumen International Airport to Panama City

Unfortunately, there’s no convenient public bus or shared airport shuttles between Tocumen Airport and Panama City, but there’s finally now a great alternative option for those simply looking for the cheapest option - the metro.

Tocumen Airport was only joined to the city’s metro line a couple of years ago, making public transport into the city much more straightforward; previously you required a couple of buses.

However, the metro is almost guaranteed not to show up when you’re looking for a route on Google Maps, which instead defaults to the convoluted series of bus connections. Much to the joy of taxi drivers, this catches a lot of people out.

This is what you need to know.

From arrivals, it’s a 5-10 minute walk to the Aeropuerto Tocumen metro station (here on Google Maps) - if you come out of Terminal Two, it’s about 200 metres to your right. Signs are scant, so you may need to ask around, but we suggest not asking taxi driver scouts, as they’ll likely tell you it’s not operating today or something like that.

A one-way fare is 85 cents (Panama uses the US dollar), and you can now just tap at the turnstile with a contactless bank car or your mobile wallet - if unsure, look for the turnstile on the right with MasterCard and Visa symbols. Just make sure you’re using a bank card that doesn’t charge for foreign usage!

Alternatively, you can buy and top-up a physical Metro Card at the station.

Once on the platform, you need to take the following route for downtown:

· Line 2 (green line) for two stops to Corredor Sur

· Transfer at Corredor Sur to another Line 2 train, southbound toward San Miguelito

· Transfer at San Miguelito to Line 1 (red line) towards 5 de Mayo, or your alternative final stop

So, that’s going to be at least two connections for most metro journeys, but it’s all quite clear once you’ve boarded.

You should allow an hour for the trip from start to end, depending on waiting times and how quickly you make the transfers.

Whilst the metro is modern, air-conditioned, and fairly luggage-friendly, as well as the cheapest and most reliable public transport option from Tocumen Airport, we believe some caveats are necessary:

· The 5 de Mayo station (Google Maps) is still a 20 to 30-minute walk from the centre of Casco Viejo, where many of you will likely be staying. It won’t be fun if you have lots of luggage or are arriving in the peak of the afternoon heat.

· The area around that station may be a bit of a jarring or hectic introduction for first-timers in Central America.

· Nobody should plan on arriving with the metro from the airport and walking after dark.

Time | About an hour from the airport to downtown stations, plus walking time to your accommodation

When | As far as we’re aware, the airport metro line runs from 5am-11pm Monday to Friday, until 10pm on Saturday, and from 7am-10pm on Sundays.

Cost | 85 cents per person - just remember to tap out with the same card on exit!

Know | A walk is still necessary from the metro, and you should only do this route during daylight hours

Read // 11 Wonderful Things To Do in Panama

A Private Panama City Airport Transfer

If the connections or a late night arrival means the metro isn’t ideal or sensible, or you’re simply prioritising the quickest and most convenient option on arrival, then you should consider pre-booking a private airport transfer.

The driver will usually track your flight and meet you at the terminal, and then it’s a 35-minute drive straight to your hotel or Airbnb in the city. With everything booked and paid for in advance, it’s the most seamless and stress-free option to start your trip.

The total price is going to be quite a bit more than the metro though, and bear in mind that congestion on both the Pan-American highway and Casco Viejo can make journey times longer than anticipated at peak hours.

The following are all highly-rated and offer free cancellation 24 hours before arrival:

• Private Transfer from Tocumen Airport to Downtown (not Casco Viejo)

• Transfer from Tocumen Airport to Panama City

• Panama City Airport Pick-Up & Hotel Drop-Off Service

If those have no availability for your dates, take a look at alternative options on WelcomePickups

Official Taxis & Uber From Tocumen Airport

If you’d prefer to sort things out when you arrive at Panama City airport, the last options to consider are the airport taxis and Uber.

The most affordable option is usually to simply order an Uber to meet you. We used the app quite a bit for getting around Panama City’s spread-out sights - including a $22 trip to Tocumen for our flight home - and it’s very convenient as well as secure. It’s also now firmly established as one of the best ways to travel from the airport to Panama City, with prices often undercutting the official taxis (and removing the need to negotiate as soon as you step bleary-eyed off a plane).

Hailing an Uber also removes the need to sort out any cash or ATMs on arrival, and it’s significantly easier to get firm understanding / certainty on your drop-off point.

However, there are four caveats:

1. If you order one in rush hour, the fare will be significantly higher than standard

2. Whilst there are usually drivers hanging around, wait times can vary quite a bit

3. You’ll obviously need internet to order the Uber, and if you’re depending on the airport’s free wi-fi, this will disconnect as soon as you exit the building to meet it. Alternatively, you can sort out your local SIM card (or e-Sim) at the airport first to solve this problem.

4. Ride-share vehicles are not allowed to pick up passengers outside Tocumen’s arrivals, so you need to exit the terminal and find the pick-up point request (often between columns P17 and P18 of the parking garage outside Terminal 2)

There are also local alternatives to Uber, like DiDi and Cabify, but we’ve never used them.

Alternatively, you’ll find the official white airport taxis and drivers waiting right outside arrivals. The fare is fixed and agreed before setting off, rather than on a meter, and it’s super important you have full clarity on this and the drop-off point. Typical rates are $30-40 USD one-way for the centre and Casco Viejo, but expect to negotiate a little to get an accurate price.

Cash is king, with cards rarely accepted. It’s very handy to already have your accommodation address to hand or pinned in Google Maps or Waze to show the driver, especially if you don’t speak Spanish or know the capital.

Note that there will be no shortage of other unofficial people outside arrivals trying to offer you a lift, but we recommend avoiding them. Their cars are parked elsewhere, they're not official or affiliated with the airport and, though 99% would be fine, it's not worth the risk or uncertainty on your first day.

Travel Tip // If your Panama flight arrives late at night - or you’re planning to explore the city later in your trip, as we did on our road trip - it may be easier to spend your first night at an airport hotel rather than heading straight into the big city.

Based on our own experience, we can recommend the Crowne Plaza, which offers a free shuttle to and from Tocumen International Airport.

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If you're a keen follower of Along Dusty Roads, you'll know that we fell a little bit - okay, a lot - in love with Puglia during our first road trip to the boot.

And for good reason.

This delightful southern region of Italy, with its stunning coastline, cute little towns and villages, quaint countryside vibe, and oh so very Italian way-of-life has everything one would hope to find - whether it's your first time in the country or sixth.

As with every holiday however, knowing a little more about what to expect (and some insider tips from people that have already been) can be the difference between a good trip and a great trip. So, that's where this post comes in.

Keep on reading to discover 17 really useful things to know before visiting Puglia - all picked up after three trips to the region - and lots of advice to help you plan your own holiday in a glorious part of Italy.

17 Really Useful Things to Know Before Visiting Puglia, Italy 

A Week Or Two Is Perfect!

If you’re in the planning stages of your Puglia holiday, then you should know that the southern region of Italy - it’s the ‘heel of the boot’ if you look at the map - is perfect for a week, or even better if done in two.

For those of you aiming to spend around seven days in the region, you have options. Either base yourself somewhere relatively central (Ostuni is a great choice as it’s a destination in itself and is actually where we based ourselves when we returned to Puglia for the second time, but Monopoli is another really great choice, especially during the summer months given that the city itself is on the coast) and then make a few day trips to beaches and surrounding towns, or if you’re drawn to a number of spots on the map that don’t seem terribly close, pick two different places to call home for your stay.

If you’re planning a trip for ten days to two weeks, then the world is your oyster and you’ll be able to cover a lot of ground and have many fantastic experiences at a really enjoyable pace - we opted to do a road trip and recommend this as the best way to explore Puglia.

Keep Reading // There are a variety of routes that you can travel around Puglia, depending upon what you’d like to see and we plan on putting together a few more articles to reflect this. To begin with however, take a look at this in-depth itinerary we followed on our first visit to Puglia.

Oh, and if you’re planning on visiting during the summer months, don’t leave sorting your rental car too late. We book all our road trip vehicles via Auto Europe or RentalCars, and usually manage to secure really great rates.

Life Follows A Slower Pace

This is a part of the world where the beating heart of community is set firmly in the rhythms of the past.

This means long siestas, shops opening early in the morning and late afternoon (but not in between) and a true sense that however much of a rush you may be in, it really makes very little difference to those that live here.

Sure, it can get a little frustrating when you want to be productive in the afternoon, but instead of fighting it, go with it. Do your sight-seeing in the morning and save the afternoon for beach time, have an extra scoop of gelato for your afternoon treat to tide you over til your late dinner and generally do what the locals do!  

If you’re visiting in the peak summer months you may find that this works better for you - those afternoon temperatures are no joke, especially for those not used to the heat!

Keep Reading // Follow the locals to the sea with our guide to the best beaches in Puglia, filled with our favourite stretches of sand, hidden coves and rocky swimming spots.

...And Everything Is Just So Italian

Yeah we know this sounds ridiculous; we were in Italy after all. However, during our first visit, having previously only spent time in Rome, Venice and Milan, we weren't prepared for just how Italian Puglia would feel.

Elderly nonnas chatting on the side of the street (each sporting identical haircuts), 'Ape' trucks still being used, as, well, trucks, vespas EVERYWHERE and groups of old men playing cards in the late afternoon sun.

It was like watching a movie - and all kinds of fabulous!

This is just one of the reasons we fell in love with Puglia.

The Tourism is Changing

When we first visited Puglia nearly a decade ago, it still felt like a region Italians quietly kept to themselves, with Polignano a Mare the obvious exception and plenty of other towns ticking along at a slower, more local pace. That version of Puglia doesn’t really exist anymore. While it still hasn’t reached the saturation levels of Rome, Venice, Florence or Cinque Terre, it is now very firmly on the map, and in 2026 it’s best thought of as one of Italy’s most popular regions rather than a discovery.

Italian holidaymakers still make up a huge proportion of visitors, particularly in August and around the coast, but you’ll now hear plenty of English, French, German and Dutch, with noticeably more Americans than there once were and a very loyal British following. In most places this hasn’t spoiled the experience - especially if you base yourself slightly inland, explore smaller towns, or travel outside peak summer weeks - but Puglia is no longer under the radar, and planning with that reality in mind will make a real difference to how much you enjoy it.

Top tip // Like the idea of heading inland for a day or two? We based ourselves in the charming little town of Sternatia for a few nights during our first stay (in this gorgeous little airbnb - still one of our favourites around the world), and had a wonderful slow experience, surrounded by locals and gained a real small town Italian life.

You Really Do Need A Car

As travellers who have spent many an hour (or day) on buses, we're strong believers that you can reach most places with public transport.

Puglia, however, may be an exception to this rule. 

Sure, there are trains and local buses, but using them exclusively to cross this varied region is going to take more time than most travellers have. It also means you’ll likely miss many of the small coves and cute little towns and villages that make Puglia so wonderful.

Thankfully for those that choose to travel on a little more of a budget, car hire here really doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. Our first car rental in Puglia was really, really excellent value and whilst in the intervening years it has definitely increased (not helped by the post-pandemic rush to get away plus car shortage), we still secured a fantastic rate during our third visit of just over £35 a day.

Before travelling, to get the best overview on rates and availability, we always search and compare car hire vehicles on both AutoEurope and RentalCars. We have used both these companies exclusively for all our road trips and highly recommend them.

Keep Reading // You can see our Puglia road trip route in this post, but if it’s your first time renting a car and driving in Italy, then you should read this post too.

It Extends Further Than Otranto

When we were researching our first trip, it took some time before we released just how large the region of Puglia was, as most articles that we could source to help us plan our route involved sticking firmly to the east coast.

In many cases this was a time-related thing - after all, if you only have three days, you don't want to spend hours in the car. However, we just want to make clear that there is soooo much more to Puglia than just Polignano, Ostuni, Alberobello, Lecce and Otranto!

If you've got more than a couple of days, we implore you to head all the way around the coast to the city of Gallipoli, with its gorgeous historic old town located on an island. This is especially true if you prefer sandy beaches over rocky coves, in which case be sure to the nearby Punta Prosciutto, Torre Lapillo, Santa Maria al Bagno and Parco Natural Reginoale Porto Selvaggio e Palude del Capitano to your itinerary.

Or if you feel like going completely off the beaten track, head up to the pretty little hilltop towns of Foggia or the cave city of Ginosa. You can read more about our our undiscovered tour of Puglia in this guide: A Different Side of Puglia | Caves, Hill Towns & History By The Sea

The Lido Is King - And Bloody Confusing

And, if we're honest, sometimes kind of annoying. 

There are some fabulous beaches in Italy - you can find our favourites in this guide - and we happen to be of the opinion that everybody should have access to them. Unfortunately, in Puglia, as in many areas of Italy, large sections of beach along the coast are either completely inaccessible without paying a fee (many of which tout themselves as beach clubs), or covered in privately owned pay-to-play sun loungers.

These are usually called ‘lidos’ and it means that those of us that make do with a oversized sarong and artfully crafted piles of sand have no choice but to bed down together along narrow slithers of sand that provide 'public access to the sea'.

It's a thorny issue in Italy, and whilst you may see some brave Italians placing towels right at the water's edge, directly in front of the lido’s sun loungers, technically they're on private property and could be moved along. It unfortunately meant that we pulled up to what we thought as a beautiful beach area on a couple of occasions, only to find it an explosion of signs, sunbeds and people, meaning we didn't even get out of the car.

If the somewhat nuanced rules of these beaches become a little too much for you, consider visiting one of the 'free beaches', or spiaggia libera. Although significantly rarer, they at least allow you the opportunity to plonk your towel wherever you damn please!

As for the best beaches in Puglia to visit? We loved those around Ostuni, Otranto and Gallipoli, and the coves we chanced upon whilst driving around the very southern tip at Santa Maria di Leuca.

Keep Reading // Want to know more about how these beach clubs work - and why we’re now fans of them after several summers in Italy? Read our post - The Art of The Italian Lido.

You Have Two Airports To Choose From

Flying into Puglia? You have two choices - Bari in the north, and Brindisi about a two and half hour drive further south. 

For those travelling from the UK, Bari is the obvious choice.

The flights are more abundant (and a little cheaper)*, plus it’s a gorgeous city to explore - definitely deserving of being on a longer itinerary. You needed spend days there either, with a two hour walking tour covering the main sites.

If you’re planning on doing a full Puglia-loop road trip, and trying to choose between the two airports from a practicality standpoint, it really doesn’t matter too much which one you fly into, or out of as you’ll inevitably pass through both cities.

Oh, and you should know that 'Puglia' - pronounced poo-lee-yah - is the Italian name for the region, whilst ‘Apulia’ is the historical Latin and English-speaking version. You may have seen both in your research, and they can be used interchangeably, but we always go with the Italian.

*The exception seems to be if flying from Manchester, where there is no direct flight to Bari, but one several days a week during the spring / summer to Brindisi.

Top Tip // Read our guide to Bari for ideas on things to do and where to stay.

You Can Stay In A Trulli

The trulli dotted across the Puglian landscape are a curious structure.

Present for hundreds of years, these cone shaped dwellings have a history that although widely discussed, continue to mystify historians as to their true origins. Were they the result of Greek invasion or deforestation? Or could it be the heavy tax laws of the 17th century, when any permanent structure incurred a significant levy - being able to topple your trulli with the removal of a single keystone would have been of tremendous benefit to poor farmer!

Perhaps we'll never know, but that doesn't make their existence - and experience - any less of a Puglian must. 

If simply visiting the trulli-heavy spot of Alberobello (and perhaps taking a walking tour) isn't quite enough for you, consider staying in one overnight. We’ve recommended a number of trulli experiences in various guides across our site but a handful of our top picks include:

• Grandi Trulli Bed & Breakfast is one of the best options in Alberobello for those looking for a place which serves as base for a few nights, alongside a unique trulli experience. A two-minute walk from the church, it is over two floors, with a gorgeous en-suite bedroom within its conical roof, a lovely outdoor terrace and breakfast included.

• Astra, is a 16th century trullo set in a wonderfully peaceful and romantic location and run by Giuseppe & Anna-Maria. It's a perfect choice for couples or honeymooners, with prices starting at £117/night.

• With its rustic luxury vibe and excellent design features, Il Trullo dell' Agricoltore oozes authentic Italian charm and offers a uniquely beautiful trulli experience in Alberobello for £126 per night.

• Hermanas Relais. By far the most luxurious option in the centre of Alberobello (with a price tag to match - £172 per night for two people), this has been beautifully restored to a high standard a boutique hotel feel.

  Il Trullo della Massaia. Surprisingly large for, this 400 year old trullo is the perfect combination of new and old. Full of original features, it has been exceptionally well updated to provide the needs of a modern traveller.

  I trulli di nonna Totò. Located a little out of Alberobello, you get an awful lot for your money here! Recently refurbished, it has all mod cons plus a lovely little terrace.

The Food Is Regional & Delicious

If you’ve travelled widely in Italy, this will feel familiar rather than disappointing. Puglian cooking is unapologetically regional, and most menus work within a fairly tight framework rather than chasing constant variation or novelty.

Now don’t get us wrong, food in Puglia is delicious. Seafood is plentiful and usually very fresh, pasta is still handmade in many places, pizza is reliably good, olive oil is local, and the bread alone deserves its reputation - we never met a basket we didn’t immediately demolish.

What this does mean is that you’ll see the same dishes reappear from town to town, often prepared in subtly different ways but rooted in the same traditions. For a shorter trip, this is part of the pleasure; for longer stays, it simply becomes noticeable rather than tiring, and some travellers find themselves happily cooking a few meals at home just to balance things out.

Vegetarians are also well catered for, despite Puglia’s reputation for seafood. Orecchiette with tomato sauce is almost always available, vegetables are treated seriously, and even fancier coastal restaurants tend to offer simple, plant-based dishes that feel entirely at home on the menu.

Top tip // There’s nothing like learning to make fresh pasta, from scratch, with your own two hands (although we must admit, having taken three classes thus far, we’re still a long way from being experts!), and the good news for keen chefs travelling to Puglia is that there are an abundance of cooking classes available across most popular tourists spots in the region, including Bari, Lecce, Otranto and Alberobello.

There's No Escaping The 'Coperto'!

The first few times we ventured to a restaurant we couldn't understand why we were getting charged an additional fee; we'd established that there were service charges levied in many restaurants but the rules of their application didn't seem clear.

The vast majority of restaurants in Italy (and almost all we came across in Puglia) charge something called a 'coperto'. This is an additional fee, charged per person, that is applied to the bill irrespective of what you eat, how much you spend and where you sit. Generally it ranges between one and two Euro per person, which may not seem very much if sitting down for a large evening meal, but will make you think twice if just nipping in for a quick cheap and cheerful lunch.

It is most definitely not a tip though, and the charge should be noted in the menu or signs outside.

Note that the coperto tends to increase the closer you are to big tourist destinations or plazas - yet another reason why it's always a good idea to explore some hidden streets! It is also almost certain to be higher (or supplemented by a 'terraza' charge) if you choose to dine in the outdoors space provided by a restaurant, rather than inside.

Don’t want to be that first-timer in Italy getting unjustifiably outraged at the coperto change or confused about whether to tip or not? Find out more in this short post - What Is The Coperto in Italy?

For A Quieter Time, Avoid August

This probably won’t come as a surprise. August is peak holiday season in Italy, and Puglia fills up fast - beaches, restaurants, accommodation and roads included. Prices rise sharply, availability drops, and everything from restaurants to boat tours will be chock-a-block with tourists, particularly around Ferragosto in mid-August.

Obviously, we're not saying that to avoid the crowds you have to head over to Puglia in the dead of winter (although we're sure it would lovely, that ocean deserves to swum in!), but shifting your trip even slightly can make a real difference. Late June is now one of the best windows: the weather is properly summery, the sea is warming up, and prices and crowds haven’t yet reached their peak.

September is still a lovely time to visit, but it’s no longer the quietly empty month it once was. After years of being recommended as the sweet spot (we’re definitely guilty of this), it has become increasingly popular, especially in the first half of the month. It’s certainly calmer than July and August, but if you can travel later in September, you’ll notice the atmosphere soften considerably, particularly inland and away from the busiest beaches.

In short, avoiding August remains the single most effective way to enjoy Puglia at a gentler pace - and being flexible by just a few weeks either side of it can dramatically improve both cost and experience.

You Can Nip Across To Matera 

When we were planning the first leg of our road trip, one place kept popping up - Matera.

This remarkable city, one of the longest inhabited in the world, the 2019 European City of Culture, and the filming location for the latest Bond film, is a no-brainer when planning your Puglia road trip. Of course, it's not actually in Puglia (something that embarrassingly took us a while to realise), but don't you dare let that put you off. 

Get lost in the Sassi di Matera, take a slow hike across a ravine, stay in a boutique cave hotel, marvel at the beautiful cathedral, or join a walking tour - there’s plenty to keep you occupied for a few days but if you only have a night, it’s still worth adding it in.

We've created a lovely little guide to Matera, full of things to do, where to stay and how to get there - and of course, lots of pretty pictures!

Did you know ?? // Whilst Matera is by far the most well-known cave city in southern Italy, Puglia actually has its very own miniature version by the name of Ginosa. Located in the Terra delle Gravine Regional Natural Park (alongside Laterza and Mottola, two other delightful off-the-beaten-track canyon towns), this is a land of scars from the deep cuts and crevices of ravines and canyons formed millions of years ago, and the pockmarks of hundreds of human cave settlements carved within the soft tufa rock slopes. It’s a fantastic area to visit, and a delightful alternative to the increasingly busy and popular Matera.

You can read more about these three towns in this post.

English Is Not That Widely Spoken

Not a surprise given that it's not an English speaking country, but definitely one to note if you're used to travelling in the north of Italy or other popular tourist destinations in Europe. 

The larger hotels will be fine, as are hostels, and fancier restaurants should have at least one member of staff who can speak English, but in small eateries, tiny towns, petrol stations - even our car rental depot - we had to rely on our limited Italian. 

Instead of seeing it as a hindrance however, look at it as a fun way to learn a little more about a country, spend some time before your trip learning some basic Italian (a phrase book might come in handy - this is the one that we used) and have fun chatting with locals - you'd be amazed how far a little of the local language can go!

Top Tip // Since visiting Puglia, and falling further for Italy with subsequent summers in Sicily and the north, we made a point of learning some Italian with the Michel Thomas Method. It’s the teacher and technique we used when learning Spanish, and we both personally recommend it to everyone we meet as it’s totally different to how languages are taught in school and so intuitive.

You can get 30% off all his language courses with the discount code ‘MTMADR’.

Always Stay In The Old Town

Every single town and city in Italy has a centro storico, a wonderful place of crumbling facades and labyrinthine streets, now returned to ancient splendour by those who left for the new town many years ago. 

Naturally, this is where the tourists flock, and for short stays, by virtue of sights and amenities, where you'll likely spend most of your time.

It's practical - but they're also so beautiful. We found the most photogenic to be in Gallipoli, Locorotondo, and Ostuni.

Breakfast Is Sweet - And Honestly, We’ve Fully Converted

If you’re imagining long hotel breakfasts piled with eggs, fruit and endless options, Puglia (like most of Italy) does things very differently. Breakfast here is simple, sweet, and built around a cappuccino and a cornetto - the Italian answer to a croissant, often filled with chocolate, custard or jam - taken standing at the bar or lingering over a small table.

When this post was first published, we thought we’d miss a bigger, savoury start to the day. After spending many more months travelling in Italy since, we’ve done a complete U-turn. There’s something genuinely joyful about starting the morning like a local, and we now consider a daily cornetto not just acceptable, but an essential part of the experience. Give Emily a cornetto al cioccolato and a frothy cappuccino and she’s very happy indeed.

That said, if you’re firmly in the savoury-breakfast camp, it’s worth setting expectations. Outside of places geared towards international visitors, eggs, avocado toast and similar options aren’t the norm. You’ll find them in some coastal hotspots and larger towns, but they’re the exception rather than the rule.

If a sweet breakfast really isn’t for you, staying somewhere with a kitchen - or a hotel that offers a more substantial spread - can be a good compromise for a few mornings. For everyone else, we’d strongly recommend embracing the Italian way, if only to eat where Italians actually eat, rather than defaulting to cafés designed around foreign tastes.

Puglia Isn’t a Bargain Anymore

A decade ago, one of Puglia’s biggest draws was how far your accommodation budget could stretch, particularly once you looked beyond places like Polignano a Mare. In 2026, that’s no longer the case. Prices across the region have risen noticeably, and even fairly unremarkable apartments in the most popular towns can now feel eye-wateringly expensive in high season.

That said, where you stay still makes a big difference. Step away from the headline destinations, or base yourself in smaller inland towns and lesser-known coastal villages, and you can still find better value - often in places that feel calmer, more local, and better suited to exploring the region as a whole. The saving isn’t always dramatic anymore, but it’s usually enough to justify the short drive.

If you do want to stay in Puglia’s most popular spots, a bit of strategy helps. Booking early is increasingly important, particularly for good-value Airbnbs, which tend to sell out well in advance. Looking just outside historic centres can also make a surprising difference; prices often drop noticeably a few streets beyond the old town perimeter. However, travelling outside the busiest summer weeks - especially July and August - remains one of the most effective ways to keep costs under control without sacrificing location.

What has changed alongside the rising prices is the standard of what’s available. Puglia now has a genuinely impressive range of places to stay, from thoughtfully designed boutique hotels to beautifully restored apartments and masserie, and in many cases the higher costs do reflect a real step up in quality, comfort and overall experience.

In short, Puglia rewards flexibility more than ever. It’s no longer a budget destination, but thoughtful choices about timing and location can still make it feel good value.

There's Excellent Weather All Year Round

Our first visit to Puglia took place in late September, and we were amazed at just how wonderful the weather was. Beach days are shorter than the height of summer but with plenty of days breaching 28C we had ample opportunity to top up our tans, and bar one stormy day in Gallipoli, never had to change our plans because of bad weather.

And whilst the winter months certainly require a jumper or two (our second visit was mid-March), you'll still be able to enjoy most of what the region is famous for - just with a little more time to discover pretty little towns rather than secluded coves.

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It’s probably the canal’s fault.

When people think of adventurous destinations in Central America, Panama rarely features. The skyscrapers of its finance-fuelled capital and the prominence of the canal make many assume there’s not enough nature or culture in comparison to Costa Rica and Guatemala, or not enough surf and sumptuous coastline to rival Nicaragua or Belize.

Even El Salvador, during the years when it was widely regarded as one of the world’s most dangerous countries, was given more benefit of the doubt.

For some travellers - especially those backpacking slowly though Central and South America - Panama is also dismissed as too expensive to linger; merely a conduit between continents, perhaps with a brief stop in the capital and one of several archipelagos on their way to/from Colombia. 

My god, they are missing out. 

Beyond the canal, Panama is one hell of a place.

A country of more than a thousand tropical islands, consistent surf, extraordinary wildlife, and genuine historical intrigue; of self-governing Indigenous regions, exceptional coffee, long stretches of untouched coastline, an imposing volcano, world-class diving, cowboys, and lush hiking landscapes that plunge deep into dense rainforest at the narrowest point of the Americas.

Far from being an outlier to the Central American experience travellers often crave, Panama quietly delivers almost all of it.

And the best part? Thanks to its reputation as a place to transit rather than linger, large swathes of the country remain refreshingly underexplored - reserved for those willing to look beyond assumptions.

After a month-long road trip, we’re delighted to share the places and experiences that changed our own view of the country.

This is 13 Wonderful Things to Do in Panama: The Crossroads of the Americas.

The Best Things To Do in Panama

Island-Hopping in San Blas (Guna Yala)

Ask a child to draw a desert island, and they’ll conjure the San Blas.

A series of islands scattered off Panama’s north coast, many are just a dot of white sand with palms, while others, set up for travellers seeking a slice of paradise, have a few sandy shacks of driftwood and dried-leaf thatch, with the Caribbean Sea only a few barefoot steps from the door.

Days are slow, boat-rides bumpy, accommodation rustic, and lunch is sometimes announced with a conch.

This castaway fantasy is only part of the appeal. The 300+ islands and nearby coastal sliver form Comarca de Guna Yala, a self-governing indigenous region, owned, run, and protected by the Guna Yala community. Tourism is on their terms, which is why the islands remain largely untouched by modern development and there’s no billionaire boltholes or luxury private resorts.

By preserving their culture, they’ve also preserved a way of travel: one that asks visitors to embrace difference, discomfort, and dishevelment to truly earn time in paradise.

Visitors can explore via multi-day San Blas tours, basing themselves on a single island, sailing trips, or with the notorious boats taking backpackers between Panama and Colombia: all require light packing, sea legs, measured expectations, and a sense of adventure.

Whether you’re seeking postcard-perfect solitude or a glimpse into Guna life, the San Blas are unlike anywhere else in the world.

Stay / Some huts now available on Airbnb

Book / Full-day trip or multi-day tour

Plan // Our San Blas Travel Guide & How to Get to the San Blas Islands

Hiking in El Valle de Anton

Whilst Panama lies just north of the country of magical realism, El Valle feels like it could have been conjured by Gabriel García Márquez.

A million or so years ago in this quiet town of millionaires, a stratovolcano imploded, creating a deep void in the earth. Such a geological predicament is common in Central America - see Lake Atitlán - and water flowed in to fill the basin, creating a great crater lake in the place that would become known as Panama.

Then, someone left the plug out.

Through a fissure or a fault line, the waters vanished and the lake slipped away.

From origins of fire and water, the land left behind in the void is thick with minerals, fostering life in a way few places can. It gave rise to dense forests, tangled vines, and delicate wild orchids, painting the valley in a thousand shades of green: in the gaps, the town of El Valle de Anton took root on the caldera floor.

Yet, when one is atop of the old volcano walls, it almost ceases to exist, hidden beneath the lush canopy camouflage.

Only a couple of hours from Panama City, but overshadowed by islands and some other places we’ll share, El Valle doesn’t actually feature on most Panama itineraries. For hikers and those with a green-tinged soul though, it may become a surprise favourite - a place that shifts your impression of Panama entirely. A long-time retreat of Panama’s elite, much of your time here is spent hiking up, around, and back down the steep caldera walls, exploring natural pools, waterfalls, and abundant birdlife, or cycling through serene tropical landscapes.

We loved it.

Stay | Blasina and Bodhi for backpackers, The Golden Frog is an excellent guest house or The Retreat is our Airbnb pick

Book | If you have limited time in Panama, it’s possible to visit El Valle on a day trip from the capital - this tour is super popular

Plan // The 10 Best Things To Do in El Valle de Anton

Surf & Sunshine in Santa Catalina

When we first started planning for our Panama road trip, we’d assumed a lot about Santa Catalina.

A destination firmly planted on the backpacker trail, we pictured the usual evolution: laptop-friendly coffee shops, boho brunch menus, boutique surf camps, and a bit of digital nomad gloss. A beach town that would already have burned through its charm, reinvented itself for Instagram, and probably peaked five years ago.

What we found instead, at the end of a very dusty road, was a relaxed, unhurried destination that has yet to fully give itself over to that usual coastal makeover.

Of course, set on a wildly beautiful stretch of Pacific Coast, Santa Catalina has still come a long way in the last couple of decades. There’s now 24-hour electricity, nicer places to stay, several well-established restaurants, poured concrete upstarts, and the sense that outside investors have been circling for a while.

Once that road is paved, things will probably change dramatically.

For now though, this spread-out little town’s rhythm continues to turn around two simple reasons to visit: the waves and the wild islands offshore.

La Punta - a long right-hand point break that rewards patience and punishes ego - draws proper surfers like moths to a flame, but this is also a wonderful place to learn and improve, with an abundance of resident instructors. Coiba National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage archipelago that once hosted Panama’s harshest prison, is one of Central America’s most impressive marine environments and every boat over there leaves from Santa Catalina (more on this later).

You’ll find an assortment of travellers here, but one thing remains true: if you’re a surfer, beach-bum, or just want a place to chill out by the ocean for a few days, then Santa Catalina deserves a prominent spot on your Panama plans.

Stay | Flash-packers will love Bambuda, Villa Coco is perfect for a boutique stay, or La Chamba if you want a base whilst you surf

Book | Transport to/from Santa Catalina from anywhere in Panama

Plan // Our Santa Catalina Travel Guide

Geisha Coffee & Hiking in Boquete

In this tiny town in the highlands of Panama, one of the most coveted coffees in the world grows between the morning sunshine and rolling afternoon mists.

A delicate little cherry called Geisha - nothing to do with Japan, by the way - flourishes only where the high-altitude climate and soil are just right. Not too hot, not too cold: the Goldilocks of specialty coffee varietals. The price isn’t far off gold either, and Boquete-grown Geisha consistently breaks records. Last year, one estate fetched $13,518 per kilogram at auction (yes, really), while a really good bag of specialty coffee normally sets you back $30–50 USD per kilo.

This isn’t just a regular brew we’re talking about here: it’s one of the most expensive agricultural products on earth and the reason Panama is so revered amongst coffee hipsters and nerds.

Yet amongst cloud forest canopies, a dormant volcano, and the afternoon drizzle that creates the perfect conditions, it’s easy to forget the price tag and remember that Boquete is a quiet, agricultural town at heart, shaped by seasons and those who have been here long before the first coffee seed touched the Chiriquí soil.

Beyond the fincas and coffee tastings, the popular town offers muddy trails to waterfalls, miradors, strawberry fields, birdlife, high-octane rafting rivers, and - for the brave or foolhardy - a thigh-wrecking slog (or cheeky jeep ride) to the highest point in Panama.

Just don’t google it in public on a Brazilian IP address.

Stay | We loved Gaia guesthouse, but Bambuda Castle is popular amongst solo backpackers. Downtown Suites is excellent for your own space but for real luxury take a look at Valle Escondido Wellness Resort

Book | This excellent small group, hands-on coffee tour

Plan // The Best Things To Do in Boquete

Casco Viejo & Cycling in Panama City

As we hinted at, most people know two things about Panama City: that it’s home to the famous canal, and that it’s a place where dirty money has long been made clean among the skyscrapers.

Its role as a secretive hub for international finance, combined with modern clusters of towering glass and steel, has given the capital a reputation as a place where ‘Miami meets Dubai’.

In other words, somewhere to rush through or perhaps just use as a stopover before heading to beaches or islands.

There are also cruise ship crowds.

But, if you take a little time to consider your options, the city offers a little more than you might expect.

Beyond the skyscrapers, Casco Viejo sits quietly at the water’s edge. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s a compact maze of pastel façades, plazas, and stone churches. Wander its streets and you’ll find cafés, rooftop bars, and small museums tucked into old buildings. Sunset along Paseo Las Bovedas reveals the skyline beyond, while the colonial streets themselves hint at a layered history that’s often overlooked.

Rent a bike and set out along the Amador Causeway and Cinta Costera, and the city opens up in an entirely unexpected way. Flat, scenic, and framed by turquoise bays, the dedicated cycle lanes make it easy to explore safely, while locals fish beside the shore and families stroll the promenade. Frank Gehry’s BioMuseo sits along the route, but mostly it’s about the sense of movement, space, and perspectives that reveal Panama City isn’t just towers, finance, and a canal.

Although, we’ll absolutely tell you all about visiting (or sailing) the canal later in this post…

Stay | American Trade Hotel, Viajero Hostel, our Airbnb, Casa Magnolia

Book | A local-led food tour

Plan / The Best Things To Do in Panama City & 14 Essential Panama City Travel Tips

Some Popular Panama Experiences

Legends and Hidden Gems of Casco Viejo

Gatun Lake: Monkeys & Exotic Wildlife by the Canal

Afro-Panamanian Cooking Experience

All-Inclusive Taboga Island Catamaran Cruise

Rafting on the Chiriqui Viejo River

Anton Valley Day Tour with Hiking

Do a Panama Road Trip

Long-time readers will know that, here at Along Dusty Roads, we adore road trips and travelling in Central America.

Until Panama though, we’d never actually combined the two!

Like the rest of the region, renting your own wheels here absolutely isn’t necessary for a good travel experience. However, it can be the difference between creating the itinerary you actually want, rather than the one constrained by bus timetables, shared shuttles, and awkward connections.

Panama is also well-suited to a self-drive adventure. Roads are generally in good condition, signage is clear, distances are manageable, and - crucially - local drivers aren’t lunatics.

For us, a Panama road trip unlocked parts of the country that would have been difficult or time-consuming to reach otherwise, but it also gave us flexibility: slow mornings when the light was good, spontaneous swims, coffee stops that turned into conversations, and the freedom to shape each day as it unfolded rather than working backwards from the last bus.

There are still budget and logsitical considerations - and anticipation of the omnipresent speed traps - but the good news is that don’t need a 4×4 or lots of experience to do your road trip right.

Book | We rented via RentalCars

Plan / Our Essential Panama Driving Tips & Our One Month Panama Itinerary

Visit Bocas del Toro

For many travellers moving south over the border from Costa Rica, Bocas del Toro is the natural first stop in Panama.

The archipelago is made up of a cluster of islands, each with its own character and approach to tourism: Isla Colón hosts the main town, whilst smaller islands like Bastimentos and Carenero offer beaches, jungle trails, and a pace that hints at the kind of tropical escape most people imagine when they think of Panama.

Whilst often compared, Bocas del Toro is totally different to San Blas.

Life here revolves around water: boats shuttle between islands and docks, waves break around the points, and colourful stilt houses line the bay, where locals go about their day just a few steps from the tide. Surf schools coexist with serious riders testing the Pacific swells, and snorkelers or day-trippers can explore coral gardens and secluded beaches. Beyond the obvious, there’s a patchwork of mangroves, rainforest pockets, and quiet corners where wildlife - from red frogs to howler monkeys - can be glimpsed between tides and treetops.

It’s not all Caribbean paradise perfection though: the town hums with ferry schedules, there are a few tourist traps, unexpected expenses, local tensions, and the occasional backpacker festival, but that’s part of the rhythm. It’s also probably the most marmite destination in Panama, often due to mismatched expectations, the wrong choice of island base, and a tropical climate that’s often out of sync with high season.

Bocas del Toro is also accessible by air, with small flights connecting the islands to Panama City, offering a convenient option for those short on time or looking to avoid the long overland journey.

Plan / A Beginner’s Guide to Bocas del Toro (published soon)

Dive into Coiba National Park

A trip to Panama isn’t complete without experiencing Coiba National Park, one of the world’s most biodiverse marine environments and the country’s premier diving destination. It’s the sort of hidden paradise that few travellers expect when they think of Panama!

A vast archipelago of islands and islets - yep, Panama really does have a lot of those to choose from - Coiba was largely off-limits for decades: from 1919 until 2004, the main island housed one of Panama’s harshest prisons. Surrounded by deep Pacific waters, escape was virtually impossible and it gained an Alcatraz-like reputation.

Cut off from outside influence, both the land and surrounding waters were left largely untouched, allowing ecosystems to thrive. When the prison closed and the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, Coiba opened to the world and the marine life below the surface remains spectacularly pristine.

Diving is the main attraction and, as we got our PADI a few years ago in Honduras, it was one of the first entries on our own list of things to do in Panama: it surpassed expectations!

White-tipped reef sharks, olive ridley turtles, huge schools of jacks, and rays abound, whilst seasonal highlights include hammerheads and whale sharks.

Not a diver? Then it should absolutely still feature in your Panama plans. Snorkelling tours offer access to the same crystal-clear waters and pristine beaches, with stops at multiple uninhabited islands - and that’s almost as much of a highlight as what you can find in the blue. You can also find a bunch of introductory fun dives and courses if you want to go deeper (sorry).

The final bit of good news? All the boats depart from Santa Catalina, where there are a handful of dive shops!

Stay | Flash-packers will love Bambuda, Villa Coco is perfect for a boutique stay, or La Chamba if you want a base whilst you surf

Book | Transport to/from Santa Catalina from anywhere in Panama

Plan // Our Santa Catalina Travel Guide

Perspectives on The Panama Canal

You’ll often see Panama referred to as ‘the isthmus’, and this geographical term is crucial to understanding its destiny.

This slender strip of land connects North and South America, and has long been the bridge between oceans and continents. Long before the famous canal, indigenous peoples and later Europeans used overland routes across this narrow corridor, carrying gold, silver, and other goods, making the isthmus a crossroads of trade and ambition.

Its strategic importance was clear to many, and the dream of a canal existed long before the first locks were dug.

The French were the first to attempt it in the late 19th century, but ambition ran ahead of engineering know-how, and tropical disease, unstable soil, and mismanagement led to failure. Sensing an opportunity, the United States backed Panama’s declaration of independence from Colombia in 1903, largely so that it could gain control of the canal project.

Taking over in 1904, US engineers and a legion of international workers completed the canal a decade later. It was a monumental feat of engineering, cutting through mountains, diverting rivers, creating lakes, and ultimately uniting the Atlantic and Pacific.

Its completion revolutionised global trade and shaped Panama’s history in every sense, even though the US controlled the Canal Zone until 1999.

But, despite everyone knowing about Panama’s canal, we can fully appreciate why some of you may be a bit uninspired to visit it. Sure, it’s an incredible feat of engineering, but watching gargantuan container ships navigate the tiny channels of the Miraflores Locks at a glacial pace isn’t exactly the pyramids in Egypt.

Even for enthusiasts, the standard visitor experience may not deliver the perspective on the scale and engineering for which you’re hoping - which is why you may want to consider the limited number of experiences that let you actually sail it from ocean to ocean.

Know | The Canal is just 20-minutes from Panama City, but also accessible in lesser-visited Colon

Book | This popular full-day ocean to ocean boat trip or do a half-day transit through the canal

Plan // How To Visit The Panama Canal

Search For Quetzals & Sloths

The Costa Rica PR machine is a powerhouse, and its reputation for nature and biodiversity is a big reason why the northern neighbour often tops bucket lists.

Yet, despite all our trips there and elsewhere in Central America over the last decade, it was Panama where we spotted more sloths in the wild and finally glimpsed the elusive resplendent quetzal.

This wasn’t why we chose to return to the country but, in hindsight, it shouldn’t have been such a surprise.

Some facts: Panamá has more bird species than Europe and North America combined, and more plant diversity than the United States and Canada. Its position as the land bridge between North and South America allows species from both continents to coexist and evolve side by side, creating a richness few other countries can match. With 63% forest coverage, the highest in Central America, its tropical rainforests are among the most studied on the planet, including the largest rainforest in the Western Hemisphere outside the Amazon Basin.

From the outskirts of Panama City to the forests flanking Gatun Lake, from the waters around Coiba National Park and the Azuero Peninsula to birdwatching in the foothills of Boquete, and even in unexpected corners just a few steps from the road, wildlife is abundant.

Monkeys, toucans, sloths, quetzals, turtles, whale sharks and more - Panama reminds you constantly that nature here isn’t an add-on; it’s central to the country’s identity.

Don’t underestimate it.

Book | Monkey & Sloth Jungle Habitat Tour

Stay | Lost & Found Hostel for a real ‘into the wild’ sort of experience

Plan // 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Panama (published soon)

The Azuero Peninsula & Pacific Coast

This was our wildcard pick in Panama.

Many travellers only consider Bocas del Toro and San Blas, yet this quieter, more rugged part of southern Panama has its own compelling pull: virgin beaches, turtle‑nesting, secret breaks, yoga retreats, and towns rooted in tradition that flirt with surf culture without becoming defined by it.

The Azuero Peninsula itself is drier than Panama’s lush interior, with rolling hills, scrubby forests, and long sandy beaches. Small towns and fishing villages dot the landscape, with ranching and farmers on horseback so prominent that you undeniably feel like you’ve stepped into cowboy country.

Playa Venao, a built-from-scratch surf hub and weekend escape, is the standard-bearer, but has grown into such a schizophrenic destination that it isn’t the ‘must-do’ that we anticipated. Yet it’s just one small pocket in a stretch of coastline that otherwise rewards curiosity, quiet exploration, and encounters with nature that feel authentic and largely undiscovered.

The gorgeous enclave of Playa Cambutal, found at the end of a dusty pockmarked road, was somewhere we could happily have hidden away for weeks.

This corner of Panama is still under the radar, but it won’t stay that way for long — for surfers and travellers seeking solitude, it remains the quintessential ‘in the know’ destination.

Infrastructure and accessibility isn’t great in parts though, so those who come here with a rental car or 4x4 will get much more out of their explorations than those relying on public transportation.

Stay | This gorgeous A-Frame on the beach in Cambutal

Book | A snorkelling tour at Isla Iguana

Plan | A Short Guide To Cambutal & A Traveller’s Guide to Playa Venao (published soon)

Travel More in Panama

Updated January 2026

A handful of years ago, back when Puglia was yet to reach the imaginations of non-Italians, an image surfaced that forever changed the course of the region’s tourism; a photo of a small pebble beach edged by limestone cliffs, white-washed houses, and the most vibrant of aquamarine waters.

This image was of Cala Porto in Polignano a Mare.

Puglia is a vast and stunning land, where aquamarine waters are the norm, limestone cliffs trace the border between land and sea, and white-wash houses proliferate, yet after three trips to Puglia, this view from the Balconata sul Mare remains one of the most beautiful, and certainly the most iconic we encountered.

Sitting just thirty minutes away from Bari, one of Puglia’s main transport hubs, Polignano a Mare has proven itself to be a destination in its own right. Whether you’re passing through on a longer road trip of the region, or visiting on a weekend break, the poster child town where poetry lines the streets has plenty to entertain - especially on a warm summer’s day.

In this guide, we’ll cover the best things to do in Polignano a Mare, as well as share personal recommendations on where to eat and drink, essential travel better tips, our pick of the best places to stay, plus advice on parking and transport connections.

This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Polignano a Mare.

The Polignano Essentials

Spiaggia / Take in the view of Puglia's most famous beach, then discover Polignano’s better (and quieter) beaches just a few minutes walk away.

Explore / Discover the historic centre by foot, in a vintage tuk tuk or on a private walking tour

Drink / Grab a cocktail at Diplomatico or Sensory

Eat / Have a meal you won’t forget at Grotta Palazzese, excellent pizza at Il Quadrifoglio, fantastic focaccia at Focacceria di Delle Noci Marco or a healthy & delicious meal at MINT Cucina Fresca

Sail / Join this super popular 1.5 hour boat tour around the bay

Poetry / Follow the poetry of Guido Il Flâneur across the walls, door and steps of the old town

Coast / Take a walk (or a tuk tuk ride) along the lungomare

Idea / Only in town for a short while? This ‘Polignano in a Day’ tour combines a street food tour through the old town, a tuk tuk ride to some beautiful spots you might otherwise not reach and a 1.5 hour boat ride along the coast.

Stay / The super popular POSEA, the gorgeous Aquamarea, Marea B&B for affordable historic centre location or Musae al Mare if you crave a little luxury.

If you’d prefer an Airbnb, a few of our favourites include Dimora Di Mare, Itaca Home, Sogno Blu, Calumàre and Casa Mare.

Our Favourite Things To Do in Polignano a Mare

Hang Out At Polignano’s Picturesque Beach

Perhaps the most popular place to lay down in all of Puglia (and almost certainly the most popular things to do in Polignano a Mare).

Whilst Cala Porto - also known as Lama Monachile - may actually be better enjoyed as part of the town’s iconic view (the pebbles make it impossible to walk on barefoot), if you’re spending more than a day here in the warmer months, it’s a nice enough spot to throw down a towel and read a book. The water is also glorious in summer, and there are also some rocky areas to sunbathe and caves to swim around.

Unlike many beaches in Puglia, this one is not overwhelmed by lidos but if you fancy a sun bed over the pebbles, it is possible to rent an umbrella plus two sun beds from an establishment at the back of the beach (beneath Ristorante Il Covo dei Saraceni). Just be warned - this is one of the most expensive lidos we’ve come across in Italy, costing €60 per day for the set up!

If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can also test your nerve with a spot of cliff jumping. Not one for the risk-averse amongst you, but legend has it that the limestone cliffs surrounding the waters of Cala Porto are an excellent spot from which to take a leap of faith!

Keep Reading // Discover our favourite beaches in Puglia

The Details | You can find Cala Porto/Lama Monachile here on Google Maps. To access it, you have to go away from the old town, across and beyond the Ponte di Polignano (maps), and then go down into a tunnel that takes you down to the beach.

Make sure to bring flip-flops or seashoes, and note that most the beach often starts to be covered in shade from around 3pm in summer due to its position beneath the steep cliffs. Also, set your expectations, as it can become quite crowded.

Did you know? // Polignano a Mare - or specifically this beach - plays host to the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. Every year, around September, crazy adrenaline junkies will emerge through a private living room in the cliffs to dive 27 metres into the blue. It’s a true feat of both athleticism and balls, and certainly adds an interesting twist to your Puglian adventure. You can find more details on the official website.

Do note that accommodation books up very, very quickly for the dates around the contest so be sure to get your hotel or apartment sorted as soon as possible. If you’re lucky, you may even find somewhere with views of the contest from the comfort of your own accommodation, like this cute little fisherman’s house!

Explore Polignano A Mare’s Historic Centre

Whether you are visiting one of Italy’s largest cities, or a tiny forgotten town in the hills, the centro storico (that’s Italian for historic centre) will be the first place most tourists choose to seek out.

This is where you’ll find the oldest buildings, the tiniest of alleyways, impressive churches and often the most photogenic of streets, sites and vistas - and this is true of Polignano a Mare.

However, given the town’s popularity and ubiquity on pretty much every Puglian road trip, our top tip is to spend at least one early morning exploring the historic centre before breakfast, whilst the streets are quiet, and before the before day-trippers and the crowds descend.

Enter first through Porta Vecchia / Arco Marchesale, the old gate and impressive arch to the old town (maps), and follow the cobblestone streets, well, wherever you fancy. It’s a relatively small, warren-like maze of narrow streets often dead-ending with incredible sea views so just follow your nose, your intuition or your curiosity and see where you end up!

To help you out, we’ve also shared our favourite viewpoints later in the post.

Whilst we often prefer to explore on our own timetable, we appreciate that it’s not always easy to grasp the depth of Polignano’s history nor its stories from a guidebook - if you’d like to know a little more about Polignano’s past, consider taking this two-hour walking tour.

Top Tip // Located along a very narrow street, immediately right after walking through the gates, you will find a cool little bar named Vinarìa (maps). As we’ve mentioned, Polignano can become a little overwhelmingly busy at times, and this bar offers a bit of respite from the crowds. They have an excellent wine list alongside spritz etc, and do offer food (although several reviews mention the long waits if you’d like to eat).

If Vinarìa sounds up your street, don’t miss MINT Cucina Fresca (maps) located nearby. Focussing on fresh, healthy meals they offer a creative menu of modern Italian fusion cuisine - if you’re entirely plant-based, you absolutely have to eat here! It’s a small place, so if you’ve got your heart set on it for dinner, we’d recommend booking ahead.

Grab A Drink in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II

Every Italian town has a main square, and this is Polignano’s. Busy in the warmer months of the year, it’s still a wonderful place to grab a morning coffee or a late afternoon aperitivo and watch the world go by!

We were particularly fond of the cocktail bar, Diplomatico (maps) which offered standard traditional cocktails alongside some of their more unique creations but, but we’d also recommend nipping around the corner, to Sensory (maps), a delightful little wine bar which has a couple of tables outside. Alternatively, Cafe Aquamarea (maps) next door has a wonderful terrace with views of Lama Monachile, but do note that the prices are very toppy so not somewhere you’ll like to stay for more than one!

We haven’t personally been, but if mojitos are more your thing, you should make a beeline for nearby La Casa del Mojito (maps).

Other more historical pursuits within Piazza Vittoria Emanuele include:

Palazzo dell’ Orologio | Directly in front of you as you enter the square, gaze up and you’ll see an impressive clock (it used to be a sundial but was replaced in the 19th century) topped by bells and a statue of San Vito, the patron saint of Polignano a Mare.

Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo | Dating back to the 13th century (a Pagan temple used to stand in its place), whilst the outside of this church appears rather austere, its rather much more beautiful interior is definitely worth taking a quick look at. The church is free to enter but has limited opening times. Note that this is an active place of worship, so you will not be able to visit during Mass, and please be respectful and not enter in beachwear.  

Have A Dining Experience You Won’t Forget

Hidden within an ancient cave, Grotta Palazzese, with its spectacular terrace overlooking the water, has been used for banquets and parties since the 1700s. Definitely not for those on budget (three course set menus start from around €190 per person), but if you’ve got the money to splurge, you’ll unlikely find a more magical restaurant in all of Puglia.

Tip - they also have a hotel if you’re feeling fancy. Find out more here.

If a meal at Grotta Palazzese is a little out of your price range but you’re curious to see what all the fuss is about, head to this location around lunch or before sunset, for a perfect view of one of Puglia’s most famous restaurants.

Breakfast Tip // Unfortunately, our top recommendation for your morning cappuccino and cornetto - located in a charming little square lined by tufo-brick houses with dark green shutters and an abundance of plants - is now closed but the good news is that Otto, a relatively new spot that specialises in pasticciotto (a delicious pastry from a small town called Galatina, near Lecce) has opened up just opposite.

Alternatively, Caffè Dei Serafini, is a popular spot with a wee terrace overlooking the water.

Don’t Forget Polignano’s Other Little Beaches

Whilst you absolutely can’t visit Polignano without at least checking out the view of Lama Monachile, if the crowds are a little overwhelming or pebble beaches just really aren’t your thing, we highly recommend taking the short walk along the coast to the towns other swimming spots.

The same crystal clear waters, but significantly smaller crowds - win, win!

Grottone | The difficulty of accessing the water within this natural swimming pool (and the open sea around it) keeps a steady limit on the numbers that choose to hang out at this gorgeous swimming spot. Absolutely not one for families, we’d make a beeline here over the main beach any day of the week - just make sure you bring your sea shoes with you! Grottone is around a 5 - 10 minute walk from the large bridge, here on Google Maps.

Cala Paguro (maps) | Continue around the coast a few minutes longer and you will find Cala Paguro, a charming little cove that feels a little more like Menorca than Puglia. The small pebble beach doesn’t offer up much space, but there is plenty of flat stone areas around the little harbour which prove a very popular spot for locals to enjoy the sun and escape some of the tourist crowds.

If you’re looking for an alternative place to park, there’s a small free public carpark just behind it, with stone steps leading down to the beach.

Top Tip // If you’ve got an Airbnb or apartment with a decent kitchen (especially if it comes with a gorgeous roof terrace like this one!), and are wanting to cook up some fresh seafood, there’s an excellent fish shop - Da Pasqualino, Il Re del Polpo - right by the beach, just here. They also do simple plates of the daily catch that make a nice lunch. Note that their opening hours do vary dependent upon time of year - we recommend checking out their Facebook page for up to date times.

Plan | Our 16 Favourite Beaches in Puglia

Check Out A Famous Statue

The famous song ‘Nel blu dipinto di blu’ (you probably know it as ‘Volare’, and when we say famous, we mean super famous - it even won a couple of Grammys in 1959!) was written by Domenico Modugno, a chap from Polignano a Mare. Although he left the this coastal town whilst still a boy, he remains a charished part of Polignano’s history - so much so that the local council erected a huge statue of him that will stand overlooking the sea for many years to come.

You can find Domenico Modugno here on Google Maps.

Top Tip // Domenico’s statue is located in a large, open square lined by restaurants, somewhere that in our option at least, would make a preferable spot to have dinner - especially given the sweeping views of the sea and the Puglian coastline.

There were building works going on in the square itself during our last visit, but we did grab an early evening spritz from Malidea (maps), a cool little bar with lots of tables overlooking the sea - a pretty decent sunset spot if you ask us! The simple plates of food also looked tasty.

Nearby Morus is a highly-regarded seafood restaurant which we haven’t personally tried, but which has excellent reviews.

Grab a Sweet and Cool Treat

Are you even really in Italy if you don’t indulge in a scoop of gelato at least twice a day?

Across our two visits we’ve tried - and don’t judge us here - four gelaterias in Polignano a Mare, as well as sourced recommendations from an Italian family member that visited last summer. It’s fair to say, we’ve got you covered!

Head to one of these, and you can thank us later:

Gusto Caruso | Find it here

Bar Peppino | Find it here

Voglia di... Gelato Artegianale | Find it here

Bar Turismo | Find it here

Il Supermago del Gelo | Find it here

Plan // 14 Things To Know Before A Puglia Road Trip

Set Sail Along The Coast

One of the most popular things to do in Polignano is to take a boat trip along the coast - not only will you be treated to an alternative vantage point on the historical city, but you’ll also stop at impressive caves and have the chance to swim in beautiful azure waters.

There are lots of companies that arrange this, including various touristic offices scattered about the town but if you’d prefer to book one in advance, this 1.5 hour tour is super popular, has lots of excellent reviews and even includes a glass of Prosecco! There are multiple departures each day and it costs around €35 per person; we’d recommend booking at least a couple of days ahead in high season as it often gets oversubscribed.

(If Polignano is a last minute decision and the above is fully booked, this two-hour option is a good alternative but we also recommend checking on Viator too).

Alternatively, if you’re visiting Puglia with a group of friends, or just fancy a more luxurious experience, you can also consider this fabulous private option that includes champagne and snorkelling.

For those that enjoy taking to the seas but prefer a little more exercise, consider this SUP tour for an alternative view back the town.

Take In The Views

Given Polignano’s stunning coastal location, there are an abundance of different viewpoints to be sought out and enjoyed. The following are our recommendations for those not to be missed:

La Balconata sul Mare | Those beach photos that we mentioned earlier? They’re all taken from this spectacular vantage point in the old town, and you absolutely can’t leave Polignano a Mare without checking it out. Find the exact spot here.

Whilst we’d normally recommend the sunset golden hour for the best photography, Lama Monachile becomes increasingly covered in shade from late afternoon onwards. For this reason (as well as the huge crowds that line up to get their own photo), we’d recommend heading here nice and early.

Pietra Piatta | This is another excellent viewpoint you should try and make time for; to access it simply follow a small stone staircase (known as ‘Scalinata Volare’ - maps) just behind the statue of Domenico Modugno that leads to a large section of flat rock. From here you’ll be rewarded with incredible views out over the old town sitting perched atop limestone cliffs, and an alternative vantage point of Cala Porto. You can find the Pietra Piatta viewpoint here.

Ponte Borbonico | This bridge that connects the two halves of Polignano a Mare is a bit of a crazy thoroughfare so we wouldn’t dally for too long, but it does offer a wonderful vantage point over Lama Monachile, the imposing limestone cliffs and the sea beyond (it’s basically the reverse view of ‘La Balconata Sul Mare’). Find it here.

Punto Panoramico Largo Ardito | Located at the beginning of Polignano’s lungomare (before this the buildings jut right up to the edge of the cliffs meaning you can’t walk along the coastline), this is a wonderful and recently developed viewpoint that looks northward, along a cliff-line that looks little different than it did 100 years ago. Find the viewpoint here.

Take A Walk Along The Lungomare

The one kilometre long Lungomare di Polignano a Mare actually makes for a wonderful early morning or late afternoon walk, offering up several other beautiful viewpoints that most visitors don’t get a chance to see.

It’s also an excellent way to visit Puglia’s only contemporary art museum, the Fondazione Museo Pino Pascali. Founded in 2010, and housed in a spectacular building overlooking overlooking the sea (in what used to be the town’s ancient abattoir), it was created to honour one of Italy’s leading 20th century artists. Open every day 10 am-1 pm, and 4-9 pm, except Mondays, entry costs €2.

You can find the museum here on Google Maps, and discover more on their website.

Top Tip // If you find yourself in this part of Polignano during the middle of the day and can’t quite face the walk in the heat, the start point of the Lungomare is where you’ll find tuk-tuks to take you on a 30 minute tour along the coast towards San Vito. We haven’t done one personally (which is why we can’t tell you how much they cost from here), but given the number of these little moto-vehicles circling around, it definitely seems a popular thing to do in Polignano! If this sounds right up your street, you can also book this tour in advance.

Grab Some Dinner Along Via Roma

Whilst there is no shortage of restaurants around the historical backstreets and in Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle, we found the best choices and value to be along Via Roma (maps).

Pedestrianised during the summer months, this long, arrow-straight road is lined on both sides with bars, restaurants and shops serving up everything from simple pizza and pastas, to lunch time nibbles, fresh seafood, local specialities and some international cuisine. It’s got a buzzing atmosphere in the evening as well.

Our picks include:

Olio Su Pane | Focussed on street food, this cool little restaurant offers small plates ideal for lunch, an early evening snack or a light dinner.

Il Quadrifoglio | They serve up fresh seafood and pasta, but you should head here for the pizzas - popular with tourists and locals alike, so be prepared to wait for a table in high season.

Buongustaio | If you’re only in Puglia for a short while, and want to ensure you taste the local specialities, head here. It’s another place for small plates, and one that’s particularly appealing for the carnivores with meat-laden sandwiches their speciality!

Ristorante Antiche Mura | Specialising in seafood, this long-standing favourite serves up elegant Puglian classics, in a vaulted stone dining room. Warm, intimate and lovely.

Baguetteria da Gianpiè | If you’re looking for a budget-friendly plate of pasta, this is the place to come - their simple orecchiette pomodoro was exceptionally good for the price!

Ruz - Cucina Confidenziale | A fantastic little restaurant offering up Puglian classics, small dishes and the odd bit of international fair (the burgers looked particularly good!). There’s also lots of vegetarian options on the menu.

Top Tip // Once you’ve got your fill of incredible food, head on over to one of our favourite Polignano finds - a little curio shop just off of Via Roma. Run by a friendly chap, it’s filled with quirky and sometimes questionable memorabilia, watches, and quite a lot of smut. We desperately wanted to pick up some trinkets for the new house but alas, Italian time keeping got the better of us and he didn’t open as promised the following morning.

We also stupidly didn’t put a pin in the map for it, but you can find it hidden away on Via Narciso.

Follow The Poetry

The streets, walls and doors of Polignano’s centro storico are punctuated with poetry; poetry by a man known as ‘Guido Il Flâneur’. Whether all (or indeed, any) is his own, it certainly makes this writer from Bari a bit of a local celebrity.

Hang around the town long enough, and you may even bump into him in a local bar.

One of Guido’s most famous works are his ‘poetry steps’ - Vicolo della Poesia - a photogenic stairway tucked down a small street not far from Balconata Sul Mare. Unfortunately we didn’t drop a pin in the map for their location (and the stairs aren’t on Google Maps), but if after a little wandering you still can’t find them, any local you ask will know exactly where to point you.

Plan // 17 Useful Things To Know Before You Visit Puglia

Have A Quick Bite At Our Favourite Focacceria

As travelling vegetarians (although we flirt with pescatarianism in small coastal towns and villages), we’re sometimes a little limited in food options - thankfully, this is never the case in Puglia, with an abundance of traditional meat-free dishes across the entire region.

For Polignano a Mare however, a quick snack or lunchtime treat means only one thing: a fresh-out-of-the-oven, still warm, olive oil heavy, super sweet pomodorini foccacia. There are several foccacerias in town, and you can find fairly decent offerings in most bakeries, but for the best, make a beeline to Focacceria di Delle Noci Marco.

Queues are to be expected - especially during the weekends or peak season - but trust us when we say it’s worth it! Their location here near the bridge makes them an ideal grab-and-go lunch to take to the beach!

We found nearby Fcazz e Birr (maps) to be a decent alternative, and they also have a good amount of outdoor seating if you’d prefer to eat-in.

Prefer your bread with delicious fried fish between it? Head to Pescaria and thank us later.

Foodie Activity // If you live for sampling the local cuisine, consider joining this highly-rated street food tour which includes the chance to try panzerotti, focaccia, local wine and burrata. You can also join a fantastic little cooking class and perfect some recipes to take back home with you!

Where to Stay in Polignano a Mare

From luxury hotels to family run B&Bs, little guesthouses with views over the sea and contemporary boutique spaces, Polignano a Mare has a huge number of accommodation options to choose from.

However, it is important to note that this is not a cheap town to stay in, with prices being considerably more than you’d pay elsewhere in the region. Additionally, when you choose to visit will have a huge impact on the nightly rate, with even very standard guesthouses more than tripling their rates in the month of August.

If you’re travelling around Puglia on a tighter budget, we’d suggest visiting the town as a day trip on your Puglia road trip and picking a base somewhere a little less popular. The good news is that there are plenty of other amazing little towns and villages nearby, and you may well find somewhere that you love that little bit more.

Also, if you’ve got a rental car, note that much of the historical centre of Polignano is a ZTL (Zona a traffico limitato) and therefore closed off to non-residents’ vehicles. Due to this, most accommodations situated there will not have parking nearby, meaning you need to find a free space and walk, or pay for a car park (we’ve shared suggestions below).

Hotels & Guest Houses

POSEA | One of the most popular places to stay in Polignano, whilst the marine-inspired decor doesn't necessarily warrant the price, the incredible views over Lama Monachile certainly do! Rooms are clean, comfortable, light and bright, and there’s a large rooftop terrace for guests to enjoy.

Marea B&B | Family owned and run, Marea is a new B&B in the old town. Good amenities including a fresh breakfast in your room each day, as well as that elusive private parking (difficult to find in Polignano). Doubles from £70 a night.

Palazzo Maringelli | Clean and sleek contemporary design in the centro storico, Palazzo Maringelli comes highly rated. Rooms are super clean and renovated with class and high-quality furnishings, and the service, excellent. Doubles start from £99 per night.

Musae al Mare | One of the most luxurious properties in Polignano a Mare’s historic centre, Musae al Mare offers three exquisite boutique suites just 20 metres from the sea. All rooms are decorated to a high standard, include large terraces overlooking the water and private hot tubs.

Aquamarea | This absolutely gorgeous boutique B&B offers beautiful rooms in a traditional setting but with a stunning contemporary uplift. Located in the heart of the historic centre, it’s best feature is the incredible views over Cala Porto from both many of the rooms that the wonderful roof terrace / bar area. Highly recommend.

Dimora Talenti offers up similarly excellent rooms with exceptional views, but if you’re not so bothered about having a balcony, consider the stylish BAYIT Charming Place.

Suite Minerva | Located just outside the historic centre, the recently remodelled Minerva offers a small number of excellent and modern rooms, with friendly and helpful staff. The best part? It’s remarkably well-priced with rooms for less than £100 in August!

Biancomare is another great value room-only option but if you’re looking for something a little fancier in the centro storico, consider the highly-rated Dimora Anderì, which also has an excellent roof terrace.

Alternatively, if you’d prefer to be a little further outside of Polignano A Mare - away from the hustle and bustle but only a short walk or taxi ride into town and places to eat - there are some really excellent nearby hotels, including Echi di Puglia Marsento, an absolute beachside gem located just a 15-minute walk from the centre of Polignano, and the stunning Masseria Le Torri, a boutique guest house which seamlessly combines contemporary style with traditional Puglian architecture. Honestly, it’s beautiful!

Airbnbs & Apartments

Polignano is not short on Airbnbs and rental apartments (there are literally hundreds), and couples or small families only requiring one or two bedrooms will find lots to fit most travel styles and budgets. Note that the closer you are to the water - especially if you’re craving a view over the sea - the higher the price.

To save some money, consider looking just outside the historic centre (these will often come with a little more space too).

Allure 84 | An excellent choice for a couple on a budget, this delightful first floor apartment is furnished with one-of-a-kind pieces, an original tiled floor, and traditional design. It’s just lovely.

Apartment With Sea View | Not to everybody’s taste, but the hipster within us is certainly drawn to this apartment. Super cool design including vintage furniture plus a pretty awesome roof terrace to boot!

Casa Lucia | Ideal for those that love the idea of staying in the old town but crave modern amenities. Large living spaces, an excellent kitchen and terrace overlooking the beautiful streets of Polignano’s centro storico. From £96 a night in summer.

Other excellent value Airbnbs include:

La Terrazza di Angelica, Casa Vigiò (especially considering it has a large rooftop terrace),and the super contemporary A casa di Paolo.

Dimora Di Mare | The most expensive option on this list but the only Airbnb we’ve found with a small pool on its private roof terrace! This space is huge, with sun loungers for four people, plus a dining and chill out area. The interior of the property is a little on the small side but decorated to a high, modern standard throughout. Located in the historic centre.

If you can’t stretch to the above, but can’t get the idea of lazing in water in your own private terrace, take a look Itaca Home, a large, modern, one-bedroom property that offers a hot tub instead!

Sogno Blu | Once a fisherman’s home, this charming little Airbnb may be on the small side, but its incredible views over Polignano’s most famous cove make it a popular choice for couples and those looking for a traditional space to call home during their time here.

Calumàre | This absolutely gorgeous townhouse is probably our favourite property in Polignano. It’s been fully modernised in a minimalistic, clean and stylish contemporary manner but retains the best of traditional Puglian design. Honestly, it’s just wonderful. A huge bonus is the beautiful terrace with views out over the historic centre.

Our second favourite Airbnb in Polignano a Mare? Almost certainly the fabulous Casa Mare. The classic Puglian white backdrop is delightfully accented with bold colour choices and light wood, with a modern aesthetic throughout. Also has a great terrace.

A Casa di Elena | This super popular one-bedroom townhouse is split over multiple floors and features a clean modern design, and a basic kitchen. The sea view from the little terrace is its main selling point though.

Marianna 25 is another fantastic option.

How to Get to Polignano a Mare

From Brindisi and Bari Airport

If Polignano is your first (or only stop) in Puglia, you will be flying into one of two airports: Brindisi or Bari.

Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) is quite a bit closer, at around 55 km away, whereas Brindisi Papola Casale Airport (BDS) is located approximately 80 km from Polignano a Mare; which you use will likely depend upon the flight connection available from your home town. We have personally used both, and don’t really have a preference.

By Rental Car | By far the easiest way to reach Polignano from both airports is with your own rental car. In fact, both times we’ve visited this town, we’ve done so as part of a Puglia road trip, and highly recommend this as the best way to discover the region.

There are lots of different car rental companies at both Bari and Brindisi Airports, but do note that it is super important to book your hire car in advance if travelling in high season as although the supply is large, it is finite - and Puglia is now a very popular destination!

Top Tip // We rarely go direct when hiring our road trip vehicles, instead preferring to use rental aggregators to compare costs and find the best deal. The company we usually use is AutoEurope, whom we have had only excellent experiences with.

If you’re planning on renting a car during your time in Puglia, we highly recommend reading our post ‘Nine Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers’, for general tips on how to save money on your car hire and avoid some common vehicle rental mistakes, as well as our specific post on driving advice for Puglia, alongside our road trip itinerary.

Bari & Monopoli To Polignano By Car

If you’ve got your own rental car, it’s a straightforward 35-minute drive from the centre of Bari to Polignano a Mare, and just 15 minutes from Monopoli.

As mentioned, most of the historical centre is a monitored ZTL no-go area, so you won’t be able to enter or drive through it with a car - and fines are very common on unaware tourists.

This means you need to park elsewhere, even if you have accommodation in the old town.

As with any of Puglia’s most popular towns and villages, parking can be a tad problematic if you’re not arriving somewhere first thing in the morning, and whilst there is limited paid street parking, we’d recommend heading to one of the town’s several paid car parks rather than persevering down a warren of one-way streets to find a free space. Two of our preferred options are:

· Parcheggio Marco Polo has a convenient location, and charges €1/hour or €10/day - find it here

· Parcheggio San Francesco e Sant'Oronzo charges €1.50 per hour - find it here

Bari & Monopoli to Polignano to By Public Tranpsort

If you will be navigating Puglia by public transport, the good news is that unlike some more out-of-the-way destinations in the region, Polignano is very easy to reach with public transport.

From Bari | Trains leave from Bari central station very frequently throughout the day. Journey time is approximately 30 minutes and you can expect to pay around €3 depending on time of day.

It is possible to get a bus, but it’s more expensive and takes longer so we wouldn’t recommend it.

If you’re visiting Bari, then why not check out our Bari city guide.

From Monopoli | Trains leave Monopoli station every 30 minutes throughout the day and the journey time is just 12 minutes. Tickets cost around €1.50 per person.

To check times, availability and book your ticket for either of these routes you can either use Trenitalia or Omio (a website that allows you to check trains and buses at the same time and book tickets in your own language).

Travel Better in Puglia

You can find all our Puglia articles on this dedicated page, or alternatively head to one of the related posts below.

14 Things to Know Before a Puglia Road Trip

Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

8 Reasons to Fall in Love With Puglia

17 Really Useful Things to Know Before You Visit Puglia

Our Favourite Beaches in Puglia

A Short Guide to Bari | Your Gateway to Puglia

A Curated Guide to Monopoli

A Short Guide to Ostuni | The White City

A Short Guide to Locorotondo | Puglia’s Prettiest Little Town

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Lecce | The Florence of the South

A Short Guide to Otranto | Our Favourite Things to Do & See

Travel More in Italy

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Updated January 2026

One of the most common questions we get asked by those planning at trip to Puglia, is where to find the region’s best beaches.

Well, after three visits to the heel of Italy’s boot, we’ve finally put together this guide full of our very favourites - from Spiaggia Pescoluse on the west coast, to the cute little seaside resort of Santa Maria di Leuca in the very south, to the world-famous Cala Porto in Polignano a Mare on the east side.

For each beach we have also provided all the necessary information you need to know to plan your visit, including where to find it, the facilities on offer, parking & accessibility and the best nearby places to stay.

These are the best beaches in Puglia!

Best Beaches In Puglia | The Essentials

If you’re planning your first summer escape to Puglia, then it's important to know about a few differences between the region’s coastline in comparison to somewhere like Portugal or Spain.

First, it’s that outside the less frequented west coast, long stretches of soft golden sand are not the norm. They absolutely do exist - and the best of them are in this post - but Italians have an innate ability to turn (and call) anywhere you can pitch a chair and a parsol a 'beach' (spiaggia).

Therefore, wherever you see a 'spiaggia' in Google Maps, don't assume it's going to be long and sandy.

Second is the very Italian phenomenon of the 'lido'. Many of you will be familiar with pictures of rows of tightly packed sun-loungers paired with bright, colourful umbrellas, all laid out with hypnotically perfect precision and repetition - that's a lido. Though they come in various shapes, styles and standards, all subscribe to that particular aesthetic of matching sun-lounger (lettini) and ombrellone (parasol). You have to pay an entrance fee to access them and their facilities, which usually includes the rental of your own lounger and umbrella for the day.

They are pretty common in Puglia.

For first-timers in Italy, or if you've never before travelled its nearly 5,000 mile coastline, then understanding what these are and how they operate in advance will save you a good deal of shock, befuddlement, and irritation.

We’ve written a whole post about these if you'd like to know more: The Art of The Italian Lido.

The lidos take up the majority of beach space in summer, but there will pretty much always be sections known as spiaggia libera (free beach) that you can access for free on the same stretch of sand.

As well as letting you know the best beaches in Puglia - of the traditional sandy variety - we've also shared our picks for those destinations where the swimming is great and the sunbathing divine, but it's on a rocky outcrop, a pebble cove, or a concrete patch which has turned into summer central.

Until we spent several summers in Italy, we always thought this was a poorer option to spend a day by the water, but we now love it (and often choose them over a sandy option).

Top Tip // Whilst some of these beaches are accessible by public transport or on foot from towns, a number are either much easier or only possible to reach with your own rental car. We rarely go direct when hiring our road trip vehicles, instead preferring to use two popular rental aggregators to compare costs and find the best deal. The two companies we use are AutoEurope and RentalCars - both of which we have had excellent experiences with.

We’ve included a specific section on parking for Puglian beaches at the end of the best - be sure to give it a read before planning your visits, and also be sure take a look at 14 Things To Know Before A Puglia Road Trip.

Map Of The Best Beaches In Puglia

If you scroll down, you’ll find in-depth descriptions of our favourite beaches in Puglia (including ideal bases from which to explore them and how to get there), but for a quick guide that’s useful when trying to plot out your itinerary, we’ve created this little map.

Please do note that this list is in no way exhaustive, and we have absolutely no doubt that every time we return to Puglia, we will find new swimming spots to include in the guide. However, we have personally visited so many, that we felt the most useful thing to do was curate it down to our very favourites, rather than point you toward those which we found underwhelming or not worth going out of your way to spend a day at.

Lastly, we’ve structured our recommendations in geographical order, starting on the east coast (the most common start point for trips as Bari and Brindisi airport are there) and working our way down and around to the lesser-visited west coast.

Cala Porto in Polignano a Mare

A handful of years ago, back when Puglia was yet to reach the imaginations of non-Italians, an image surfaced that forever changed the course of the region’s tourism; a photo of a small pebble beach edged by limestone cliffs, white-washed houses, and the most vibrant of aquamarine waters.

This was Cala Porto in Polignano a Mare (also known as Lama Monachile).

As foreign tourist numbers have increased, the crowds have marched south and west to discover alternative pockets of beauty across the region, but this little beach remains one of Puglia’s most iconic - and some world argue - its most beautiful.

Unfortunately, this fame does mean that even outside of the peak summer months (that is July and August), this beach is incredibly busy - somewhat unpleasantly so at times - making it one for a quick dip and a gander rather than a full-on day in the sun.

Type of Beach | This is a pebble beach, so if you plan on being here for a while, be sure to bring something comfortable to sit on!

Parking | As this beach is located in Polignano a Mare’s historic centre (here on Google Maps), the nearest parking is a good 5-10 minutes walk from the beach. There are an abundance of parking lots (as well as the possibility to find on-street paid for and free parking) but for ease we’d recommend seeking out this car park first which charges €1.50 per hour.

Accessibility | To reach the beach from the centre of Polignano, you need to to take a steepish set of stairs down from the bridge - they’re easily identified on the left.

Facilities | There’s a small lido at the top part of the beach but prices are some of the highest we’ve seen across anywhere in Italy - expect to pay around €60 for two sunbeds and an umbrella.

Cala Porto’s location in the centre of a touristic town means you have the benefit of being within a couple of minutes’ walk to an abundance of excellent restaurants which cater to all budgets, as well as several takeouts and shops.

There are several public toilets in Polignano, with these new facilities being the closest.

Where to Stay | The popular Puglian summer hotspot of Polignano a Mare or nearby Monopoli as an alternative (which we actually preferred).

You can find all our pick of the best accommodations in our guide to Polignano a Mare, but a few of our top hotel picks are POSEA, Aquamarea, Marea B&B and Musae al Mare. If you’d prefer an Airbnb, a few of our favourites include Dimora Di Mare, Itaca Home, Sogno Blu, Calumàre and Casa Mare.

Top Tip // We actually much preferred the beaches and sunbathing spots that can be found if you trace the coast on foot ever so slightly north of the town centre. Still popular, they offer a more relaxed local experience with much more chance of getting a spot! You can find out more about our favourite swimming spots in Polignano a Mare in our main destination guide.

Keep Reading // A Short Guide to Polignano a Mare

Porto Marzano Beach

The town of Monopoli is one of our favourites on the east coast, and we often recommend it as a base. It’s got a couple of lovely little ‘city’ beaches, easily accessible on foot, which are definitely part of its appeal, and a good shout for a lazy day.

Another one of the reasons we believe this gorgeous little city is such a good base in Puglia is that you can head south from it, and hopscotch along the coast from sandy cove to sandy cove.

Along this stretch, there are number of lidos and spots to lay by the sea, but of the several that we visited in close proximity to Monopoli, one really stood out - especially if you have children.

Porto Marzano (Google Maps) is a little inlet that provides would-be sunbathers and water-frolickers with the best of both worlds; a protected little crescent of sandy beach edged by wave-free shallow water, and directly opposite, a rocky outcrop that is flat enough in parts to lay down a towel that sits above deep turquoise waters perfect for snorkelling.

Type of Beach | Offers both a sandy cove and a flat rocky area.

Parking | There is a large paid-for circular carpark (maps) that sits just behind the beach costing €5 for the entire day, but if you’re early or patient enough you can instead try your luck with one of the free parking spots that trace the circumference of the lot (gets filled up quickly though). Note that the narrow access road to access all the beaches along this little bit of coast is one-way, so you need to to turn left when departing.

Accessibility | A short walk to the two sections of beach, but note that you do not want to walk across the rocky part with bare feet - it’s very sharp!

Facilities | The beach is completely free and public (although there is a lido very close by; it’s called Marzá, and we didn’t love it).

There’s also a very small cafe here but we’d recommend bringing everything you need, alongside a parasol to protect yourselves from the harsh summer sun.

Where to Stay | The delightful city of Monopoli. Enjoy luxury at Hotel Don Ferrante, or opt for the lovely Orazio33 B&B. Also lots of apartments to choose from - we love Palazzo Manzoni, Terrazza Ninetta and Casa Creta.

You can find lots of other options in our Monopoli guide, or our selection of the city’s best Airbnbs in this post

Keep Reading // If you’d like to learn more about Monopoli and the other nearby beaches nearby, be sure to check out A Curated Guide to Monopli | A Base by the Sea

Calette di Torre Cintola

If you’re very much of the belief that a good beach day requires sand, this is not the place for you.

However, for those of us that become enamoured with Italian love of rocky bathing spots and crystal clear waters, Calette di Torre Cintola is a wonderful spot.

Located atop the ruins of what was once a 16th-century coastal watchtower (and what looked to us like the remains of a quarry), this charming collection of calette stretch a few hundred metres with a variety of high and low, relatively smooth rocky outcrops surrounded by beautiful crystalline waters.

Type of Beach | Smooth rocks, both raised and at sea-level

Parking | The sunbathing rocks and area runs parallel to the road for quite a stretch, and there are several dusty parking areas on one side, all of which appeared to require a daily payment varying between €4 and €5. We managed to find a space in this free dusty parking area (maps), which was ideal but would fill up early on weekends.

Accessibility | From the various car parking spots it’s easy enough to access the rocky outcrops, but getting down to the water does need a decent level of mobility - plus sea shoes. Due to the rocks common across many of Puglia’s best beaches, the footwear is a summer staple amongst Italians (including the stylish ones), so not a bad addition to your suitcase. You can find lots here on Amazon.

Facilities | There are a couple of beach bars located at either end of the calette but if you’re planning on spending the day here, we’d recommend coming prepared with snack and drinks so you don’t have to abandon your spot if you get thirsty!

Where to Stay | At just 10-minutes from Monopoli and 30 minutes from Ostuni, both these charming towns would make an excellent base for reaching Calette di Torre Cintola on a day trip with your own car.

Keep Reading // Our short guides to Ostuni & Monopoli

Spiaggia di Torre Pozzelle

There are several proper sandy beaches to the east of Ostuni, one of Puglia’s most popular towns and bases. However, after spending the day travelling along this particular section of coast, it became obvious that the stretches of sand here had one thing in common - they were quite wild.

To some of you that may not love the Italian obsession with lidos or lying on rocks, this collection of quiet bays and longer sandy stretches, often backed by wild greenery may be absolutely ideal, especially in the peak summer months when other popular spots can become overwhelmingly busy.

In fact, should you visit before or after the peak August season (especially if you come on a weekday), you’ll often find yourself sharing the beaches with just a handful of other people.

We found some a little underwhelming, but the best for us was Spiaggia di Torre Pozzelle (maps), a fantastically wild little cove that feels much like being in a national park.

Type of Beach | A half-moon of soft golden sand.

Parking | There is a car park a short distance from beach that is paid for via a meter - €1 for one hour, €5 all day. Find it here on Google Maps.

Accessibility | Easy peasy. Just park and walk the short distance to the beach.

Facilities | There’s a small bar near the beach selling drinks and simple plates but we’d recommend bringing everything you need with you - including a parasol as there’s absolutely no shade.

Where to Stay | The gorgeous white city of Ostuni. You can find all our accommodation recommendation in the city guide, but a couple of our top picks include the gorgeous La Sommità Relais or, if you’d prefer an Airbnb, Casa Palmira & A House in the Sky, Grotta dell'Alba, Vintage House and Palazzo Bergamotti are some of our favourites

Keep Reading // The Best Beaches Near Ostuni (published soon)

Torre dell’Orso

Fringed by pine forest, and enclosed by cliffs on both sides, the long stretch of sandy beach at Torre dell'Orso - so named for the the old watchtower overlooking the shore - is ranked by many as one of the best beaches in Puglia, with the village itself a popular holiday base.

We personally didn’t love the town (which shares the same name) but there’s no denying that the long expanse of powdery white sand is a wonderful place to throw down a towel for the day - or enjoy one of several lidos that have found a permanent home at the water’s edge. In peak summer, note that this beach does become more ‘packed’ than many others in Puglia, but may offer exactly what you want due to the number of facilities on it.

Note that at the southern point of Torre dell’Orso beach you’ll find Le Due Sorelle, a photogenic rock formation rising up out of the water. Watching sunset from the cliffs above this is a super popular thing to do, and something we definitely recommend if you’re visiting. You can find out more about how to do this in our guide to Torre dell’Orso.

Type of Beach | This is one of the few long, sandy beaches along the east coast of Puglia.

Parking | Torre dell’Orso has an abundance of paid street parking and a couple of car parks - just note that the one-way system means you may have to drive through and around the beach town a couple of times before you find a free spot (especially if arriving in the peak summer months, or later in the day).

If staying for the whole day, we recommend trying this carpark first which charges approximately €4 for the day.

Accessibility | There are three paths that you can take from the road that runs parallel to the sea, down to the beach. These are flat and easily accessed making them ideal for families or those with poorer mobility.

Facilities | As mentioned above, Torre dell’Orso is fairly evenly split between lidos and free beach meaning that you can easily choose to splurge or remain budget-conscious. The lidos charge around €15 for an umbrella and two sunbeds in the quieter months, whilst the prices increase significantly in the high season - expect to pay around €35 for the same set-up in August.

Lovers of watersports are well catered to here with options to hire a kayak, head out on a banana boat adventure and even try your hand at wakeboarding, whilst the conditions for swimming here in the azure waters are generally excellent (on days where the wind picks up, you may also be able to surf and bodyboard!)

Where to Stay | Torre dell’Orso has a wealth of accommodation options to suit all budgets and travel styles - you can find all the recommendations in our guide, but two out our top picks are the gorgeous Masseria Rauccio or Borgo Sentinella.

It’s also just a half-hour drive from Lecce.

Know | The nearby swimming hole of Grotta della Poesia is one of the most Instagram-famous locations in Puglia, but significant changes in the last three years mean we don’t recommend it as a beach destination. To find out why, check out our short guide to Grotta della Poesia.

Keep Reading // A Short Guide to Torre Dell’Orso.

I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea

We first visited this rock formation back in 2017. Back then, we pulled up on the side of a dusty road, and the only others we encountered were Italian tourists, bodies bronzed from a summer in the sun.

A regret we always carried with us from that trip was spending just an hour laying atop the smooth rocks of I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea, a bathing spot so named for the sea stacks that shoot up from the aquamarine waters that lap the eastern coast. So, when we returned to Puglia last summer, we knew this would have to feature on our itinerary!

This beach (if we can be so bold as to call it that), has grown in popularity since that first trip to Puglia. The dusty road now has a ticketed carpark and the bodies belong to a more international cohort, but I Faraglioni (maps) remains as special as we remember.

Type of Beach | This beach is much more a collection of hewn-out crevices within the limestone stacks and coastline, worn smooth by waves over time and surrounded by the most beautiful kaleidoscopic blue water. We absolutely adore this place (and most people who visit love it too) but if you - or your back - value a flat surface, it may not be ideal.

Parking | There is a good-sized, designated car park (maps) for I Faraglioni which is ticketed and charges €1.50/hour.

Accessibility | To reach the swimming / sunbathing area, you need to descend down some slippery steps carved into the stone. Unless you can carry your child, we wouldn’t recommend doing this with little ones, and it’s also not suitable for those with mobility issues (although we did see a determined older Italian gentleman with a cane refuse to be defeated!)

Facilities | There are a couple of restaurants a minute or so from the bathing area and a business savvy, perma-tanned local man has set up a little stand at the top of the steps selling cold drinks etc for a very reasonable price.

Where to Stay | I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea are located just a 10-minute drive to Torre dell’Orso. If you fancy staying somewhere with a bit more going on, another great base for reaching this beach is Lecce or Otranto - both just a 30-minute drive away.

Keep Reading // Our guides to Torre dell’Orso, Lecce and Otranto.

Baia dei Turchi

Backed by dense pine forests, and a few kilometres from the designated car parks, of all the beaches on this list, Baia dei Turchi (maps) is probably the one you have to work the most to reach - which you’d think would make it a less popular option for those looking for a day out under the sun.

However this stunning stretch of sand located within the protected Oasis of Alimini Lakes (and boasting both the Blue Flag and 5 Sails awards) continues to be a firm favourite for those holidaying in the Salento region in Puglia.

Type of Beach | A beautiful soft, white sand beach.

Parking & Accessibility |With several access roads and parking options for several of the areas of beach and lidos which are on this gorgeous stretch of coast, it can be a little confusion to know which road to turn down and which car park area is right.

So, after turning off the main road, you will follow a narrow lane past vineyards and arrive at a large parking area (maps) from which you have three options to visit Baia dei Turchi:

- Park at the carpark. This costs €5 for the day, and includes a shuttle that will take you closer to the beach, but you’ll still need to walk around a kilometre.

- If you arrive early, you will be able to park along the road up to the carpark and then walk through the forest to the beach.

- Drive past the carpark, towards what looks like a dead end where you will be able to park amongst the trees, just a short walk to the beach. Note that we didn’t do this personally, but we have read lots of accounts of others giving this a go, successfully. Do note that the guys in the carpark will likely shout at you for attempting this, but apparently you just have to ignore them (as parking in Italy’s south is often left to interpretation and a bit of wheeze by some beaches, we don’t necessarily endorse this or advise against it).

Facilities | Facilities are very limited unless you are using one of the beach lidos, which cost around €25-€30 for two people, per day.

If you plan to decamp to the free beach, bring everything you need for the duration of the day.

Where to Stay | Otranto is an ideal base from which to visit Baia dei Turchi. Our hotel pick is Palazzo De Mori, & our favourite Airbnb, Il Balconcino di Otranto

Otranto’s Beaches

Whilst the majority of Puglia’s coastal towns and cities have a beach (or at least access to the water), not every one is excellent and worthy of being added to this list.

One overwhelming exception to this however is the tranquil bay that wraps around Otranto.

Composed of several crescents of powdery soft sand, a variety of cement outcrops and man-made rocky wave-breakers, this wonderful town offers up some of our favourite swimming spots in Puglia.

Our preferred parts are lido-free and just under the town walls (maps) or a little further along the lungomare (maps), but you can find more ‘beachy beach’ areas about a 5-10 minute further along the front (i.e. Spiaggia dei Gradoni).

Type of Beach | All of them!

Parking | Being a large town, there’s plenty of both free and paid for street parking, as well as a number of parking lots. The only problem is that as the beach is in the historic centre, you’ll not be able to park near it.

Accessibility | The water, beach and sunbathing areas are located down a variety of small staircases that are accessible to almost everyone.

Facilities | Wherever you choose to throw down your towel, you’ll be close to restaurants and shops. Lidos are much more of a rarity in Otranto, but if you head to Spiaggia dei Gradoni you’ll find Lido Camillo renting two beds and an umbrella for €35-40 - do note that as this is just a slither of beach, it can feel a little cramped, with not much space between the beds.

Where to Stay | We love, love, love Otranto - it would make a very fine base for a few days in Puglia! Our hotel pick is Palazzo De Mori, but if you’d prefer an Airbnb, Il Balconcino di Otranto, The Cathedral Retreat, and Bruni House are all wonderful options.

Keep Reading // Our Complete Guide to Otranto

Santa Cesarea Terme

Perched atop the tufo bluff and part of a protected coastal park, the ancient town of Santa Cesarea Terme (maps) traces a path between natural woods and the emerald waters of the Adriatic, its honey coloured buildings springing forth from the towering cliffs that mark the line between land and sea.

It has long been famous for its natural sulphur springs, but as is common in many of these spa towns, it wasn’t until the 19th century when the wealthy began to flock to the area in search of remedies and relaxation that Santa Cesarea Terme really began to thrive.

The monied of Lecce continue to visit the town, but the beauty now casts a much wider net, drawn in by the springs, the views, and the beauty of this prosperous town.

Beach-wise you have several options - the stunning Bagno Marino Archi lido (we found it reminiscent of the lidos found along the Amalfi Coast), the small, flat rocky outcrop of Cala Fontanelle, Cala Porticciolo and the swimming spots plus sandy bay around Porto Miggiano a minute or so drive from the centre of town.

Type of Beach | There are several different areas of beach and water-access in Santa Cesarea Terme, several lidos, rocky coves and even an old quarry.

Parking | There is limited paid street parking throughout Santa Cesarea Terme, but if you’re planning on visiting a lido in the centre of the town or one of the nearby bathing spots, we recommend this carpark charging €1.20 an hour.

Accessibility | Given Santa Cesarea’s cliff-side location, any time you’d like to access the water, you’re going to have to walk down! The only one that may be difficult to access however is the small sandy cove at Porto Miggiano.

Facilities | Besides the lovely lido, all other bathing spots are facility free but given that they are all in the centre (or nearby the centre) of town, you’re never too far from what you need.

Where to Stay | Santa Ceserea Terme itself would be a pleasant enough base for a night or two (although we don’t think there’s enough going on there to stay there for longer than that). Alternatively Otranto or even the charming town of Castro would be ideal.

Piscina Zinzulusa

Whilst we may be taking the definition of a ‘beach’ to its extreme with Piscina Zinzulusa, when you discover an open-air swimming pool, perched atop a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea, it simply must make in on to your list!

So-named for the incredible cave system that sits beneath the pool’s foundations - the most famous Karst cave along the Puglian coastline and considered to be one of the most important examples of this geologic phenomenon in Italy - Zinzulusa (maps) provides a unique and truly exceptional way to experience coastal life and take a swim with an unbeatable view without the need to get sandy.

Location | Find it here.

Cost | The entrance is €6 per adult and €4 per child but note that this doesn’t include the use of a bed / umbrella which is charged extra, a €4 per each piece. It may seem a lot, but actually works out similar in price to a lido.

Parking | There is a car park by the ticket office, but unfortunately parking is not included in the entrance fee. Expect to pay €1 per hour or €5 for the day.

Accessibility | The car park is right by the pool, with a few steps down to reach it.

Facilities | There is an on-site restaurant across from the pool

Where to Stay | The largest town to Piscina Zinzulusa is Otranto, but the charming little towns of Tricase, Santa Cesarea Terme or Santa Maria di Leuca are also great options.

Visiting Grotta Zinzulusa // As we mentioned above, whilst the swimming pool provides all the views, it is the cave that gains the most accolades - and it remains one of the most popular things to do in this part of Puglia. Visiting is only possible with a guided tour, which leave at least once an hour and cost €6 per adult and €3 per child. The tours last 20-30 minutes and can contain up to 50 people in the peak summer season.

Cala dell'Acquaviva

This gorgeous little cove is one of our absolute favourites beaches in Puglia.

Located around a six minute drive from the little seaside town of Castro, if you didn’t know it was there, you could easily continue the lovely coastal drive and miss out.

However, park up and make the short walk down to Cala dell’Acquaviva (maps), and you’ll find bucketloads of la dolce vita and a beautiful setting. The only tough part is choosing which place to settle down and enjoy the best view for the day.

Type of Beach | All stone, with easy access to gorgeous shallow water.

Parking | We grabbed a space by the little road side car park (maps), but if we had carried on and round the bend, we’d have arrived at the larger car park (maps) which is less of a walk to/from the Cala.

Parking is charged per hour by meter from 15th June - 15th September, but I’m afraid we can’t remember how much it was.

Accessibility | To reach the beach you’ll need to follow a steep but well constructed stone staircase to a large-ish flat area of stone which provides easy access to the water. Alternatively, you can continue around the bay and upward to a variety of rocky areas overlooking the water - just don’t try and do it bare foot and carrying an entire family’s worth of beach gear!

Facilities | Cala dell'Acquaviva has a small kiosk with seating offering cold drinks, coffee and snacks etc but no proper restaurant. If you’re spending the entire day here, we’d recommend bringing some extra to keep you going.

Where to Stay | Santa Maria di Leuca is a great base from which to visit Cala dell’Acquaviva, however there are a surpassingly large number of excellent accommodations just a short walk from this beautiful beach, including Tenuta Marinaia, Marenea Suite Hotel, Limonaia in Salento and Porticelli.

Marina Serra

The cute little town of Tricase, with its warren-like maze of narrow streets, peeling walls and uber-photogenic signs and facades feels a little like a hidden secret in Puglia, but the real reason to head here is for the oh-so-Italian seaside experience you can find nearby.

Whilst the town’s official port (Porto Tricase) offers a charming bathing spot overlooked by a photogenic pink museum, we recommend instead that you head to Marina Serra, located a couple of minutes away (maps)

At one end there’s a small man-made harbour which has has found a new life as an open-air swimming pool, at the other a gorgeous piscina naturale, and between, craggy rocks that slope gently towards the sea. Each offers up a plethora of sunbathing spots dotted with brightly coloured parasols and bronzed bodies.

For sure, Marina Serra is one of the best beaches in Puglia!

Type of Beach | Another - at least in our eyes - gorgeous rocky beach. If you’d really prefer something flat, consider the area around the natural pool/harbour at the entrance.

Parking | Street parking lines the road above the sea, which is paid for by the hour (via a meter), and there’s also a small free car park here.

Accessibility | The bathing areas are easily accessible from the parking, but we’d recommend having some sea shoes or water socks with you as getting in and out of the water barefoot can be quite painful (and we speak from experience!)

Facilities | There are no lidos here but there are a couple of bars serving up drinks, snacks and simple meals.

Where to Stay | Tricase would be a lovely base for a couple of days, but if you’re looking to base yourself somewhere for a little longer on holiday mode and do day trips out to beaches, we’d recommend Santa Maria de Leuca.

Otranto is definitely a possibility but note that’s it’s a good 45-minute drive away.

Il Ciolo

This was an unknown beach to us during our first two visits to Puglia (indeed, it’s considered one of the region’s best secret swimming spots). However, upon spotting the curious little Il Ciolo beneath a bridge when driving to Santa Maria de Leuca last summer, we just knew we had to stop by!

Super deep, rainbow blue waters make this an ideal spot for a bit of cliff jumping (you’ll find plenty of people getting their adrenaline rush here, irrespective of when you visit), and whilst the beach itself is rather small, this is an ideal place to take in the incredible views, and a cooling dip.

Additionally, Il Ciolo is well-known as an area for climbers, with several excellent climbing routes within close proximity of the beach.

Type of Beach | There’s a very small sandy cove which you may be lucky enough to secure a spot upon if you’re early, but many people choose instead to climb up onto one of several rocky outcrops.

Parking | There’s a free, designated car park located here, or alternatively a small number of parking bays on the other side of the bridge, here. Do note that parking for this particular beach is much more limited than others on this list, so we really would recommend visiting early, especially in July & August.

Accessibility | To reach the beach area you have two options: take the dusty high path that passes behind the beach and then head down (offers up wonderful views like those in the photo above), or walk down the several flights of stone stairs from the bridge.

There also looked like there was a hiking trail in/out of the beach, but I’m afraid we don’t know more about it.

Facilities | There are no facilities at the beach per se, but within the car park there is a bar, a restaurant and - surprisingly - a tourist information office.

Where to Stay | Given Il Ciolo’s proximity to Santa Maria di Leuca, the town makes an idea base from which to visit. Alternatively, there a few lovely little places nearby if you’d prefer to really get away from it all, including Villa Sul Mare and Dimora degli Artisti (the second one even has private access to Il Cielo!)

Santa Maria di Leuca

If there’s one place we’d say sums up the Puglian summer holiday vibe, it’s the little seaside resort of Santa Maria di Leuca.

Located at the most southernly tip of the region, this coastal town has long been popular with vacationing Italians. Indeed, its 1920s coastal aesthetic of pale blue shutters, whitewash walls and simple summer pleasures seduced us during our first road trip here; we just knew it would make a wonderful base for a few days of slow living when we eventually returned to this part of Puglia.

That return happened in September 2022 and, whilst foreign visitors are becoming increasingly common, its still Italian that you’ll hear flitting through the air first and foremost.

Type of Beach | Sandy beaches are minimal in Santa Maria di Leuca, with just a small section in the centre (here on Google Maps), but there are abundance of lidos built atop the water, and a fabulous little part harbour / part fishing spot / part bathing spot under a bridge in the southern area of the town, which was where we chose to hang out during our time there. Near to there, in summer season, there’s also a couple of temporary lidos set up on the rocks too, with stairs down to the sea.

Parking | There is actually quite a lot of on-street free and paid-for parking throughout Santa Maria di Leuca, with the lungomare (maps) offering an ideal location.

Accessibility | All the aforementioned swimming spots are very accessible, with Santa Maria di Leuca’s developed seafront offering a flat and relatively wheelchair-friendly surface.

Facilities | As we’ve mentioned, there are an abundance of lidos here, the bulk of which were very much the sort of place we’d be happy to spend the day. You can find out more about Santa Maria di Leuca’s lido offerings in our destination guide.

The only spot we’d recommend coming prepared for is the one we mentioned as being our favourite as you’re a fair distance from shops etc (although you could grab beers and snacks from the little restaurant under the bridge).

Where to Stay | For those looking for a relaxed holiday base in Puglia, we think Santa Maria di Leuca is a good spot - and it’s also ideal for exploring lots of nearby beaches also in this best beaches in Puglia guide. You can find all our accommodation recommendations in our guide to Santa Maria di Leuca, but our top picks include Biancaleuca Rooms & Suite, or if you’d prefer your own space, take a look at Stella Marina and Porto Grande Leuca.

Keep Reading // An Essential Guide to Santa Maria di Leuca

Spiaggia di Pescoluse

Around a twenty-minute drive from Santa Maria de Leuca, the only beach along Puglia’s western coast to make it on to this list is famous Spiaggia di Pescoluse. Otherwise known as Maldive del Salento for its incredibly clear, Caribbean-like shallow waters and long stretch of soft sand beach, it has long been a popular holidaying spot for Italians, with the entirety of its four kilometre length being backed with holiday homes, guest houses and all manner of tourist facilities.

Offering a good mix of lidos and free beach, it’s ideally suited to families and those that just want an easy beach day, but do be aware that it becomes horribly busy during the peak summer months, especially on weekends when you’ll find yourself battling for space.

Also, we’ve been there twice in September, and it’s been windy each time.

Type of Beach | Spiaggia di Pescoluse his is absolutely ideal for lovers of a traditional sandy beach experience!

Parking | There are an abundance of car parks backing the beach, some of which you can pay for by the hour, and others where you pay a fixed daily rate of around €5. Alternatively, for those that arrive early in the day , there is street parking available but most of it is paid for by the hour.

Accessibility | Super easy to access, with flat paths from the car parks to the beach at regular intervals

Facilities | You will find literally everything you need for a beach day either on the beach itself, or from the shops and businesses just behind it, including a variety of watersports.

Possibly because of the sheer number of lidos here, the prices can be considerably more competitive than other Puglia beaches, charging a daily rate of around €25 for an umbrella and two sunbeds in peak summer.

Where to Stay | Given how busy this beach becomes, we really wouldn’t recommend staying nearby. Instead, Santa Maria di Leuca would make a great base, as well as the beautiful town of Gallipoli located further north along the western coast.

Keep Reading // Our guides to Santa Maria di Leuca and Gallipoli

Ginosa Marina

On our first Puglia road trip, we crossed over the border to visit the famous caves of Matera in the neighbouring land-locked region of Basilicata.

However, our third trip in Puglia led us to the wonderful off-the-beaten track canyon town of Ginosa in the Terra delle Gravine Regional Natural Park. On the far west of Puglia, it’s less than 25km from Matera and home to far less famous, but equally historic, cave homes and communities.

It’s also just a 25-minute drive from the sandy Ginosa Marina (maps) in the Gulf of Taranto.

Type of Beach | Attached to a relatively tired seaside resort town, the long Blue Flag stretch of beach has lots of lidos, good swimming, and offers up lots of wild-feeling spiaggia libera backed by pines. It’s not our favourite beach in Puglia, but it’s in a historical hiking area that’s far less known by tourists and the proximity to Matera makes it somewhere we think you should know about on the west coast.

Parking | Paid street parking on the street running parallel and perpendicular to the beach.

Accessibility | Super easy to access, with flat paths from the car parks to the beach at regular intervals.

Facilities | The lidos have everything for drinks, snacks, and simple meals, but there’s restaurants and supermarkets a short walk away in the town.

Where to Stay | This isn’t a beach to go out of your way to visit, but it’s a good option for the day if you’re based in Ginosa, Laterza, or Matera.

Keep Reading // A Different Side of Puglia | Caves, Hill Towns, and History By The Sea

A Note About Parking

There is an entire trade around the parking solutions for Italian beach-goers, and before you plan a day out at the seaside in Puglia, there are a few things of which you need to be aware:

• Most beaches in Puglia will have at least one designated, paid-for car park.

• Generally, this is charged on a per-day basis rather than by the hour. Expect to pay around €5 for the day with prices dropping a little outside of July & August, and sometimes increasing beyond this for super popular beaches.

• These car parks are almost always manned by a parking attendant, and you will pay him in cash and be given a small voucher. Always a good idea to have change on Puglia road trips.

• If you’re only planning on staying for a couple of hours, you may be able to negotiate a slight discount if you ask nicely (especially if you arrive later in the day) but this is absolutely not guaranteed - and will likely be refused outright at popular beaches in high season.

• There will often be several 'unofficial’ official car parks set up in fields or scrubland, with numbers increased during the summer season.

• Alternatively, there is often free or paid-for street parking in the vicinity, however if you arrive after about 10.30 am, finding one of these non-carp ark spots is damn near impossible (we have gained a new respect for Puglians who steadfastly skirt the car park system, by parking a mile from the beach along the side of a road you are not supposed to park at, or impossibly close to another car where they can).

• As visitors, we don’t think it’s worth going too far out of your way to find free parking. From experience, this can cause more stress than it’s worth and eat into your time. It can also lead to unexpected parking fines for parking in resident’s areas.

• The paid street parking meters usually accept card payments, whilst some use the easypark app too.

Even if you opt for a car park, there will almost certainly be no shade and in the summer, your car will become horribly hot upon your return. So, wherever you park, we recommend having something you can place inside the windshield to prevent the car heating up too much. Most rentals unfortunately don’t include this, so it may be worth buying one of the reflective / foil things you see locals use at the start of your trip.

Lastly, we’ve had no issues with our cars being damaged or broken into during three road trips in Puglia, but we still recommend leave valuables out of sight and / or bring them with you.

Find out more in Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary + 14 Essential Tips For Driving in Puglia

Travel Better in Puglia

14 Things to Know Before a Puglia Road Trip

Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

8 Reasons to Fall in Love With Puglia

17 Really Useful Things to Know Before You Visit Puglia

A Short Guide to Bari | Your Gateway to Puglia

A Short Guide to Polignano a Mare | Puglia’s Most Famous Beach

A Curated Guide to Monopoli

A Short Guide to Ostuni | The White City

A Short Guide to Locorotondo | Puglia’s Prettiest Little Town

17 Really Useful Things to Know Before Visiting Puglia

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Lecce | The Florence of the South

Travel More in Italy

Our guide will help you plan the perfect stay - whatever your travel style. Keep reading for our favourite things to do in Puerto Escondido.

Updated January 2026

We didn't like Puerto Escondido the first time we visited, ten long years ago.

In fact, we were very grumpy toward it.

We'd finally dragged ourselves away from our beach shack in Zipolite - home for three weeks - and nowhere else on the Oaxacan coast was going to come close.

Looking back, we should really have headed further away, rather than to bunk beds under fluorescent lights in a place which, in comparison, felt more like a holiday destination for spring breakers and surfers.

Overpriced and overrated: that's what our first guide to Puerto Escondido said.

So, on our return to Mexico last year, ending our trip here wasn't the obvious choice. And, to be frank, we weren't sure it was a good idea either given we love so many other spots along this glorious stretch of Pacific coastline, and would happily have spent our final days there instead.

But this was a place that over the years, a fair few people told us we were wrong about - that we'd written it off too harshly in a fight it could never win - and we felt it was only fair to give Puerto Escondido a second chance.

Here at Along Dusty Roads, we always say that it's you, rather than the place, which is responsible for how much you enjoy it and, back then, bitter about leaving Zipolite, counting every single penny, speaking no Spanish, staying in the crappest of the crap hostels, and with a lot of Latin America backpacking ahead of us on that two-year trip, Puerto was perhaps never going to be a good fit.

Thankfully, on this second stay, we left with a much better feeling than when we arrived…

With several stunning beaches, world class waves, tropical sunshine year-round, and many of the distinctive cultural and culinary elements that make Oaxaca such an enjoyable place to travel, it's no surprise that 'The Hidden Port' is now such a hot destination.

But it's not as straightforward as it seems.

A thriving town with distinct neighbourhoods, paradise beaches, and accommodation catering to various budgets and desires, it has something and somewhere for everyone and every travel style. And, unlike many other places in Mexico, two visitors could leave here with quite different experiences and impressions of the place based on the choices they make before arriving.

Get it right and you'll probably love it; get it wrong and you may leave with thoughts on what all the fuss was about.

So, for anyone travelling on a first-time trip, the most important question to ask is "which version of Puerto Escondido are you here for?"

Surfing and the digital-nomad hipster lifestyle? Snowbird vacations for a little luxury and winter sun? A social hostel vibe and those chilled Instagram beaches? Mexican culture and staying in a stylish retreat overlooking the sea? A convenient holiday base to explore the Oaxacan coast? A mezcla of all of the above?

In this guide, we've shared everything you need to make sense of it all and plan your visit. As well as sharing all best things to do in Puerto Escondido, we've got everything you need know to find secluded beaches, where to eat, sunset spots, the best areas to stay in, getting around, and lots of other useful 'travel better' tips.

This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca.

The Puerto Escondido Essentials

Waves / Try your first surf experience or find serious barrels - hire a board or a teacher at the beach or book a lesson in advance

Eat / Antojitos in Mercado Benito Juárez or join a small group food tour - we think this one would be awesome

Hang / Out at La Punta Beach then enjoy the sunset

Go / Dolphin & whale watching - this boat tour is super popular

Visit / A lazy day on Playa Carrizalillo

Drink / Craft beer at Nodo or coffee at Binisa

Adventure / A day trip to The Manialtepec Lagoon, further along the Oaxacan Coast, or Laguna Chacahua

Stay / We highly recommend staying in La Punta. Opt for one of our picks: Luxury Hotel, Boutique Hotel - Mid Range Hotel - Chill Hostel - Party Hostel - Airbnb

Read / Where To Stay in Puerto Escondido

Best Things To Do in Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Hang Out At La Punta Beach

Although it’s the 3.5km long Zicatela beach that put Puerto Escondido on the map as a world-class surfing destination, La Punta is the better pick for a chilled out beach day.

At the southern end of Zicatela, it’s technically part of the beach, but the further toward the gentle curve and the hill you go, the clearer the divide and the greater appeal La Punta becomes.

There are a few beach clubs and palapa restaurants, which are ideal if you want a sunbed and umbrella for a full-on day of sunbathing with drinks and a fresh seafood lunch. However, there’s also loads of space to simply lay your towel down on the soft sand. The sea is calmer here for swimming, it’s impeccably clean, and the atmosphere and aesthetic is suitably on point.

Where | You can find Playa La Punta here on Google Maps.

Know | ‘La Punta’ is also the name for the neighbourhood backing onto the beach, and it’s the area that most travellers and backpackers will want to be based in or near.

An ever-expanding network of dusty streets, it’s changed a lot since we were there nearly a decade ago, and is now home to the sorts of cool coffee shops, concept stores, trendy mezcal bars, restaurants, hangouts, and craft beer joints one would expect for an increasingly popular destination. It also offers stylish Airbnbs aplenty, a few boutique hotels, and several large ‘spring break’ social hostels up the hill.

This means it’s got more of a generic international hipster traveller vibe at times, and is at that transition point from backpacker-bohemian to boojie; thankfully some distinctly Mexican locally-run businesses and aspects remain but may get squeezed out as time goes on.

We share more about the places we recommend eating + drinking La Punta further on in this guide, but if you want to stay here, start with our top picks (Luxury Hotel, Boutique Hotel - Mid Range Hotel - Chill Hostel - Party Hostel - Airbnb) then head over to check out all our accommodation recommendations in ‘Where To Stay in Puerto Escondido’.

Go Surfing in Puerto Escondido

Surfing is what really put Puerto Escondido on the map, and it's one of the most popular and renowned surf destinations in the Americas.

This is principally due to the presence of the ferocious Mexican Pipeline, a deadly, thundering wave that can reach 25 feet and scares us shitless (see this video).

Playa Zicatela is the place for big, consistent swells and serious surfers: beginners and intermediates there should stick to the sand and enjoy the show. Late April to September is the best time for serious surfing in Puerto Escondido, which helpfully falls outside of the peak tourism of the dry season.

There are a bunch of surf comps and championships held here too.

The good news for the less experienced is that Puerto still has a couple of spots to take your first steps on gentler, baby waves (which we’ll share below). For newbies, it's best to dip your toe in from December to early April - which is handily around the time most of you will be planning to visit - as the waters are generally calmer and the waves smaller.

Although surfers of all levels and abilities head here to find the perfect waves, it's incredibly important that new, intermediate or experienced surfers know their level: the number of painted tributes and memorials to those who have died at sea chasing a wave in Zicatela are a reminder that this is serious business, and not something to enter into lightly.

First-Timer Surf Spots

The places to have your first lessons or try to improve your stand-up skills are La Punta and Playa Carrizalillo, both of which have gentler waters and waves, and are well-established for beginners.

You'll find board rental and schools on or near the sand, with lessons costing in the range of M$1000 - 1300 for a two hour class (depending upon how many people are in it, and board rental for around M$170 / $10USD per hour.

If you prefer, you can also advance book a two-hour surf lesson.

The downside of La Punta is that it can become really busy with other learners, and the later you arrive, the less space you'll have to feel comfortable or get decent time on the board.

Do be aware that when there are bigger swells, La Punta’s point break does become a popular spot with more experienced surfers, so it's important to read the room and know when it's a not a day for you. 

Travel Tip // Looking to properly get to grips with the waves? Consider joining a surf camp in Puerto Escondido - you can see lots of options here.

For Experienced Surfers

We won't patronise the more serious, big wave surfers reading this post - we have had umpteen 'first' lessons in the water, never really been able to get seriously into it, and Andrew often puts a wetsuit on back to front.

Instead, you'll be better off reading more in-depth specialist surf guides and speaking with in-the-know surfers based in Puerto for advice on this, but the main thing to note is that Zicatela is the place to go for the pipeline and barrels.

Please do be aware of your level and limitations though, as by all accounts these are seriously big waves and can be seriously dangerous if you're out of your depth. It’s also common to break a board or two.

Also, if it’s not already on your route, you should seriously start considering nearby Laguna de Chacahua for your itinerary.

There are a number of surf camps in the area that cater for more experienced and advanced surfers.

Visit Mercado Benito Juárez

Surf and sunshine are the main reasons that most will come to Puerto Escondido, but beyond the town’s beautiful beaches there is a lot to uncover - beginning with the vibrant local market, Mercado Benito Juárez.

The daily market represents the colourful, bustling, beating heart of ‘centro’, and will alight your senses from the moment you step through the door. Limbs of butchered animals, pig heads, still flinching fish on ice, and stacks of yellow chickens juxtaposed with stalls selling fresh flowers, socks, shoes, mops, and traditional medicines.

Although it attracts some tourists, it is by no means a tourist market, and wandering its aisles surrounding streets is absolutely one of the best things to do in Puerto Escondido, if sometimes a little overwhelming.

Crucially, although there’s a foodie scene emerging in La Punta with a slew of modern or fusion restaurants with a price to match (more on those later), we prefer to take the Bourdain approach:

“All of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool, check. Tiny little plastic table, check. Something delicious in a bowl, check.”

You’ll find lots of traditional restaurants and comedors here, and it’s by far and away the best place to escape your comfort zone and sample some new flavours and authentic dishes. The larger restaurants are on the same side as the general stalls, but if you go through the white framed doorway with 'Antojitos' painted in red, you'll find the smaller comedors offering up quick bites and Mexican street food staples.

The smaller size of these stalls and plates make this an ideal place to spread the tourism dollar and try out a few different places; we ate at #64 Antojitos Belem, #65 Ely, as well as one we wish we could remember for you, but really just follow your nose and belly, and see where’s busy.

This is also the place to find handmade pottery, plates and artisanal goods at a much fairer price than the hideously marked-up hipster-friendly facing spots in La Punta. We bought several little pots and bowls from the sweetest lady in the market, and we’d encourage you to generously buy from here if you can too.

Where + When | Open seven days a week from 6am to 7pm, it’s easy to give yourself an hour or two for the market before an afternoon at the beach. It’s best to either go in the morning or around lunch time, as some places stop serving after 2pm (and lots run out of certain menu items sooner).

Tours | Don’t speak Spanish or would prefer to go deeper? Then check out this very highly-rated Made in Oaxaca Food Tour, which includes the market - it’s also available to book here so make sure to compare prices.

Travel Tip // On the side of the busy Highway 200, you can also head to Mercado de Zicaleta (maps). It’s in a big modern shed, and great for fresh fruit and veg shopping, whilst it’s also got a good selection of restaurants on the sea-facing side.

Go Dolphin & Whale Watching in Puerto Escondido

Ever dreamed of seeing dolphins or whales? Now’s your chance to do it in the only way you should, with the animals wild and free, rather than held captive and cramped in those ghastly wildlife ‘attractions’ and aquariums.

Humpbacks migrate to the warm waters around Puerto with their newborns, and you have a fantastic opportunity to watch these magnificent beasts play and breach the surface right before your eyes. The recent creation of a large protected marine zone off the coast has supported this wildlife watching activity, and the best way to do it head out with a responsible, licensed whale-watching tour boat.

The whale-watching season generally runs from late November to March, with December, January and February offering the best chance; you can however get lucky a few weeks either side of this. Tours tend to last for three hours, with some offering the chance to stop off for swimming and snorkelling, and there’s usually a good chance of seeing turtles and dolphins too!

We’ve shared three highly-rated tours below, which will focus on whales when the season is right, and include accommodation pick-up.

· Dolphin Watching in Puerto Escondido | book here

· Turtles & Dolphins with Miguel’s FANNY boat | book here

· Three-hour Dolphin + Whale-watching | book here

Alternatively, you can also find a few guys on Playa Principal offering tours, as well as various companies advertising in hostels and tourist-facing businesses.

If you’re travelling elsewhere along Oaxaca coast, we saw whale watching and dolphin spotting tours advertised in Zipolite, Mazunte, and San Augustinillo (and even saw a few humpback whales right from our sunbeds on the day we got engaged in Zipolite!).

Visit Playa Carrizalillo

Playa Carrizalillo offers a stark contrast to the widths and wild waves of Zicaleta, and for many, the perfect beach experience in Puerto Escondido. There’s a reason it’s the most sought after stretch of sand in these parts!

Accessed by a steep set of seemingly never-ending concrete steps in the cliffside, the cramped set-up of shack restaurants and sunbathers gives everything a slightly chaotic feel when it's high tide and peak busy (and it does become quite crowded as the day goes on) but it offers a gorgeous setting in a sheltered bay.

Trust us, those steps are worth the effort and, if you’ve not got long in Puerto, you need to make time for a few hours on the sand here.

With calm water for paddling and swimming, it’s also got baby waves, so is an ideal spot for that first lesson.

Where | Find Playa Carrizalillo on Google Maps. You can find all the details on transport, restaurants, amenities in our best beaches in Puerto Escondido post.

Stay | Rinconada, the area that sits just behind Carrizalillo is a popular alternative to staying in La Punta, with several excellent accommodation options for all travel styles, like Casa Conicarit, Hotel Suites Villasol, and this fantastic Airbnb.

For more picks and advice on where to base yourself in the town, read Where To Stay in Puerto Escondido

Five Popular Tours & Experiences in Puerto Escondido

Save / Releasing Baby Turtles

Dip / Small-group Bioluminescence Swimming

Ride / Countryside Horseback + Hot Springs Tour

Sip / The Mezcal-Making Experience

Trip / Oaxacan Coast Adventure

See Baby Turtles & Support Conservation

For a long time, turtles were big business in this part of Mexico.

With the arribada phenomenon seeing thousands of sea turtles arrive to nest on the sand, and being commonly found in the ocean, there was entire trade and culture around hunting them and taking their eggs. Their meat was often used too, and fishermen had an annual capture quota of 4-5,000.

This was outlawed in the 1990s, with many locals and enterprises now focussed on conserving the species against environmental and man-made threats (which includes the level of tourism development and construction in Oaxaca state).

This is why you’ll find several turtle sanctuaries and protected nesting sites along the Oaxacan coast including Playa de Escobilla Sanctuary in Huatulco (maps), Palmarito Turtle Conservation organisation and the National Turtle Centre in nearby Mazunte.

The main nesting season is July to September, but there are often turtles nesting in the months before and after this. Many of their eggs are dug up and held in centres to protect them, before responsibly releasing the babies back into the ocean.

Turtle conservation has naturally evolved into a popular tourist activity, which helps fund conservation efforts, and one of the most popular things to do in Puerto Escondido is join a tour to learn more and help release the babies.

You’ll find lots of turtle release tours advertised in Puerto Escondido during the nesting season, and on the beautiful Playa Bacocho there’s also a small sanctuary which does releases around 5 or 6pm. These cost M$150 per person (with all funds going towards conservation efforts).

You can also book a highly-rated tour to this sanctuary that includes transfers from your accommodation in Puerto Escondido.

There are also tours available to the Escobilla Sanctuary in Huatulco we mentioned earlier, but it doesn’t appear that they currently offer transfers from Puerto Escondido. Definitely worth checking out the specific tour in case this is an option that they begin to offer again.

There are a few other turtle release tours available on Viator and GetYourGuide but the reviews aren’t fantastic; please contact us if any others you join in Puerto Escondido are encouraging or allowing irresponsible interactions or handling of the turtles, and we will take action.

Travel Tip // On a late night, drunken walk along the beach in Zipolite, we were blessed to witness a big mama turtle make her way back to the ocean! It was a surreal and unforgettable experience, but we did have to chase off a few dogs as well as warn other drunken travellers returning home (it would have been easy trip over her in the dark). Of course, some people want to get to close or shine a torch or take photos, and we unfortunately had to remind them not do this - so please do keep an eye out and encourage other responsible behaviours around these magnificent beast if you’re fortunate enough to see one unexpectedly.

Eat & DrinK in La Punta

Although there are plenty of popular places to eat and drink along the strip of Northern Zicaleta - like El Cafecito, Mar & Wana, and great little place called Lindo Oaxaca for Mexican breakfasts - as well as on its side streets and beachfront restaurants, we spent more of our mornings and evenings eating in La Punta.

The pace and scale of development in the encalve since our first visit to Puerto is quite remarkable. Although it’s not all very budget-friendly and some of it is a bit scene-y, there are a lot of really good options for authentic Mexican, modern fusion, and everything in between.

It’s definitely a place to make a beeline for in the evenings, though the crowd and atmosphere on a particular night makes a big difference on enjoyment levels (sometimes it feels like the Spring Break, Gold Coast, and Bali-set have all arrived at once, and other times it’s much better!)

A few of our favourites to seek out include:

Nodo Brewhaus (maps) | Although few things in life taste better than an ice-cold chela on a Mexican beach, good beer does just hit different. This cool little microbrewery bar serves up their own beers as well as a guest selection from other craft breweries in Mexico. If you’re not sure what you fancy, get a flight (they also do excellent cocktails too).

Casa de los Abuelitos | Excellent little spot for Mexican breakfasts, we highly recommend it! Make sure to try the chilaquiles verde.

A similar place our hostel recommended us is Dammy (we think that was the name), but they unfortunately were low on veggie options that day. They seem to focus on doing a few set dishes daily, rather than a big menu, so do drop in and see what’s cooking!

Tentate 777 Café Brunch (on the beach) is a fantastic option for a authentic Mexican breakfast.

Malagua Café, as we’ll explain later, is probably the most in-demand brunch spot with travellers.

NATIVO | Another good option in La Punta for tasty local dishes. Tlayudas, tacos, enchiladas, and more!

The Boneyard | Cool wee place with a simple bar set up around a small skate bowl. Food is mainly pizzas and burgers, whilst there’s also a thrift store. It opens at noon, but we’d say it’s a better pick for the music, skaters, and atmosphere at night.

Fish Shack La Punta | Seriously good fish tacos and sandwiches at this incredibly popular side-street spot - it deserves all the custom though. We half-expected to find it over-rated but god I’d pay to fly back just to have another few. It can be difficult to get a table and get quite crowded. A great shout if you’re hungover or in-between sunbathing on La Punta. It’s reasonably priced, and you can also pay by card, which helps.

Gustav Grün La Punta is vegetarian and vegan-friendly restaurant that’s good pick for healthy bowls and burritos but if you eat fish, head to Poke Sea Fresh Bowls.

However, if you’re all about the aesthetic vibes as well as being plant-based, you need to head to YAAB.

Craving a decent pizza? Don’t miss A La Leña. Italian owned and run, locals say it’s the best in Puerto Escondido. Just be warned, it’s only open at the weekend, so gets very busy!

Bikini Bar | A good spot for a pre-dinner cocktail, they do a very decent Americano.

Chicama | Two people recommended this place to us, but there were queues out the door the evening we tried to go. It’s a modern Peruvian restaurant, with a focus on ceviche and cocktails. Quite pricey, especially when you can get very decent ceviche at all the beach shack restaurants elsewhere, but people rave about it. A lot quieter for lunch.

For vegans and veggies, there are options at pretty much all of the above. However, one place to make a note of is Ya'Ab Vegan Kitchen (which serves what looks like excellent food alongside impeccable vibes), which we didn’t have time to eat at.

Travel Tip // Pepe’s Fish Tacos up in town was also one of the most recommended places by our Instagram followers. We didn’t make it and still regret that decision - find it here on Google Maps.

Explore The Beaches & Coast of Oaxaca

We’ve been fortunate enough to spend a lot of time on the coast of Oaxaca, and we absolutely love it. Many of reading this will be travelling slowly and staying in several other nearby towns and villages as well, with only a few days in Puerto before moving on.

However, as Puerto Escondido is the main gateway and a destination all on its own, more visitors are visiting for a standalone vacation. And, whilst the beaches of Puerto offer more than enough to keep you occupied for a week, you’ll be missing out if you don’t take the chance to either split your time up with another place on the coast or venture out on a day trip or two to a few of our favourites.

With Puerto Escondido acting as the main transport hub on the coast, it’s easy enough to do it as an independent day trip with public transport, or you can opt for the quicker, more direct experience of a private taxi or tour.

Whichever you go for, the following places need to be on your radar:

Mazunte | The main hippy and traveller town on the coast, some people love Mazunte whilst others don’t really vibe with it. Nearby San Agustinillo is also home to one of the most beautiful beaches on the whole coast.

Zipolite | Mexico’s first and biggest nudist beach, and the place where we got engaged, Zipolite is a really special spot (and you don’t even have to get your willy or fanny out to enjoy it). Find out more in our guide.

Estacahuite | A tiny village with three gorgeous little beaches, a few shack restaurants, and not much else at all. Read our guide for all the deets.

If time is short but your curiosity is strong, then you can opt for this full-day, small group tour which visits Mazunte, Ventanilla, and Zipolite.

Travel Tip // There are a bunch of places in Puerto offering scooter rental to explore the coast, with a few companies in La Punta and Zicatela. Prices we noted down were M$350 / 24 hours for a scooter and $2,100/week, whilst a150cc motorcycle was M$500 and M$3,600 respectively. As ever, make sure to double check the small print on your travel insurance as many exclude coverage - find out more in 13 Common Mistakes To Avoid With Travel Insurance

Plan | The Best Beaches in Oaxaca

Grab a Beer On Playa Principal

What a difference nearly a decade can make.

We really didn't rate Playa Principal back on that first visit, but that was most definitely on us.

This is very much an authentic local's beach, filled with families and fishermen, and all the small joys of Mexican beach culture. Stallholders serving up fresh ceviche, chopped fruit, and cold beers on red plastic tables, colourful boats zooming in off the waves, arguments, music, and laughter from big groups.

In comparison to other beaches in Puerto Escondido, it may not offer traditional 'vacation vibes’, but don’t count it out! Undoubtedly one of our favourite late afternoon spots, it is the ideal place for a golden hour beer, a bit of people-watching, and the chance to experience the small joys of being somewhere so different to home. After all, you've come to Mexico to be in Mexico, not a hipster-traveller version of it.

Travel Tip // Avenida Del Morro begins a short walk away from Playa Principal, and it’s really the central tourism and nightlife street in the town. Running parallel to Playa Zicatela, it’s not unpleasant at all and home to several popular restaurants, bars, and accommodations, but we preferred the vibe elsewhere in Punta. One spot to make a point of visiting there however is the Mirador Romance de Verano (maps) - the ‘summer romance viewpoint’ which gives views over both Bahia Principal and Playa Zicatela.

Oaxacan Coffee & Digital Nomad Days

A real highlight of this trip was going deeper into Mexico’s coffee culture.

The majority of the country’s beans are produced in four southern states - Chiapas, Veracruz, Oaxaca, and Puebla - and you rarely, if ever, see it available over in the UK or Europe.

Whilst Ciudad de Mexico and Oaxaca City are, understandably, streets ahead of Puerto in the number of third-wave coffee shops, there are several places here to imbibe some of the best, local roasts.

Malagua Café (maps) is a super popular option for travellers in La Punta, and for good reason. The coffee is on the money (especially if you’ve been craving a decent flat white), the fresh juices and smoothies revitalising on first suck, and their brunches will hit the spot. It’s also a good pick for digital nomads.

A few streets parallel and away from the beach is little along the road is Café Suku’un (maps), which is also a good choice for a decent cup. Others you may wish to pop in your map are Black Baba, Kunai Surf Cafe, Capsula, La Punta Coffee, and Casa Kooks.

However, our main recommendation is quite a bit away and very much off-the-beaten-track.

Café Binisa is up the in the town centre, tucked away a five-minute walk from the market. Family-run, they’re passionate about what they do, serving up freshly roasted coffee from the Sierra Madre mountains, as well as variety of homemade nut-milks, butters, and baked treats. It’s a calming space with natural wood and plants (and a wonderful pooch), and a place that coffee lovers should definitely make a point of stopping. One of the owners speaks excellent English too if you’d like to know more about their story and the coffee! Find it here on Google Maps.

As we’ve already touched upon, Puerto Escondido is a great choice for aspiring or established digital nomads. Many businesses and Airbnbs are set-up for laptop workers, offering reliable and fast connections when you’re doing the 9-5 before / after the beach. Malagua Café is a good spot, whilst nearby Bruja in La Punta offers co-working spaces and Starlink internet. Co-Work Puerto (maps) is another to consider if you want a more formal space to work from.

Visit The Lagoons & Mangroves

Tear yourself away from the beaches and buzz, and you can see a very different side to the coast of Oaxaca.

Just 20 minutes from Puerto Escondido, visiting the Manialtepec lagoon is a popular activity at sunrise or under cover of darkness. Early-risers will be rewarded by the tranquilility amongst nature and birdlife as they explore the lagoon by kayak in the first light. Tours are offered all over Puerto, and include round-trip pick up from your accommodation in town.

Two options include the Mangrove Kayaking Tour + The Manialtepec Lagoon by Kayak

By night, the lagoon shimmers under a dark sky with bioluminscent plankton. We’ve swam in similar environments in Colombia and Cambodia, and it’s a wonderful experience of starlight constellations under water! This Bioluminescent Lagoon Experience is highly-rated.

However, for surfers, backpackers, slow travellers and nature lovers, you’ll be rewarded if you venture further afield to the National Reserve of Lagunas de Chacahua.

We do need to keep some secrets though, so you’ll have to read our Lagunas de Chacahua guide to find out why it’s so special (and why you need to keep it that way).

A Few Hours at Playa Manzanillo

We promise that the best things to do in Puerto Escondido don’t just revolve around the beaches, but it’s fair to say that they are the big draw.

And with good reason.

As we expand further on in The Best Beaches in Puerto Escondido guide, there’s quite a diversity in terms of aesthetic, vibe, crowds, swimmability, surf potential, and different travellers will prefer different ones based on what they’re looking for that day.

Playa Manzanillo (and its neighbouring beach, Angelito) is the final beach we’ll give a shout out to in this guide to the best things to do in Puerto Escondido, and is a good shout for those looking for more of an intimate beach experience.

Manzanillo is the more popular and photogenic option, whilst Angelito tends to have more fishing boats up on the sand. Separated by rocks, there’s a walkway to quickly and easily cross between the two.

Due to their proximity to the town, they can become quite crowded as the day goes on, but they are particularly lovely at sunset and one of the few bays where you swim with a little more confidence. We’ve heard the snorkelling is lovely here too!

Where | Find Playa Manzanillo here on Google Maps. It’s an easy walk down the stairs from the town centre, and you can find a few alternative entry points and details on visiting it over in the guide to the Best Beaches in Puerto Escondido

Stay | Whilst Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito don't have accommodation directly on them, the hill overlooking hill them is the place for travellers or vacationers looking for something a little more considered in a secluded setting with endless views onto the Pacific Ocean.

Casa Cascada is a stunning adults-only boutique hotel, this Poolside Cabaña is an ideal choice for a solo traveller or a couple, and the Ocean View Villa is a decadent treat.

Savour Those Sunsets

Exploring done? Sunbathing done? Surfing done?

Then the only thing to do in Puerto Escondido is to grab yourself a strong cocktail or a cold chela at one of the best sunset spots in town, and reflect on the passing of a good travel day and start thinking about all the rest to come in Mexico.

Any of the beaches we’ve mentioned will do nicely, with most offering uninterrupted views over the water to the horizon, but these are the places we’d seek out at least half an hour before sundown:

· Near the beginning of the La Punta side of Playa Zicatela, by the lifeguard tower (here on Google Maps). El Bicho La Punta is a good bar there if you don’t want to be on the sand.

· From the curved end of Playa La Punta on the sand or terrace at Savanna Cafe, or head up to the hill, rocks, and lighthouse for a more dramatic vantage point (here on Google Maps)

· Many Puerto Escondido hotels have rooftop social area for guests, and our hostel’s was perfect for savouring the sunset. Mirador Las Tortugas is the most popular sunset spot here (maps)

· On the more commercial size of Playa Zictela, there are various bars offering happy hour deals with good sunset vantage points

· Playas Coral and Bacocho offer a more secluded, romantic spot for sunset strolls, but you’ll be walking back in the dark. Sunset on the rocks from nearby Mirador Las Tortugas (maps) is increasingly becoming established as the sunset spot here, but does involve a little bit of a scramble and you need to take shop drinks with you.

Travel Better in Oaxaca

The Best Beaches in Puerto Escondido

Where to Stay in Puerto Escondido

The Best Oaxaca Beaches & Bases

A Guide To Laguna de Chacahua

13 Wonderful Things To Do In Oaxaca City

How To Get From Oaxaca To Puerto Escondido

Travel More in Mexico

In this guide you’ll discover the best things to do in Monopoli, our pick of where to stay and some excellent tips on where to eat.

Updated January 2026

We didn’t make it to Monopoli the first time we visited Puglia.

Two weeks spent criss-crossing the region, in the lingering summer heat of an unseasonably warm October had left us craving the cool waters of the Adriatic Sea upon on our skin and dampened our desire to explore the flower-lined streets of yet another city - no matter how beautiful that city may be.

So, when we retuned for our second visit to Puglia the following spring, Monopoli was at the top of our list; it was definitely worth the wait.

With a much more lived-in feel than some of the more popular tourist towns in the area, Monopoli allows you to have a beautiful, quintessentially southern Italian experience whilst still catching glimpses into everyday life; fishermen and their catch retuning to the photogenic harbour in the mid-morning, groups of men - young and old - congregating on the street to discuss everything and nothing in a sing-song language often too quick to understand, nonnas on balconies watching the world go by, and bars full of locals and not tourists.

Throw in the fact that it’s close to many fine beaches and within easy driving distance of many of the area’s biggest attractions and beautiful villages, and Monopoli makes a truly wonderful base from which to explore Puglia.

So wonderful in fact, that when we returned to Puglia for our third road trip, we returned once more!

In this guide you’ll find our pick of the best things to do in Monopoli, a few restaurant suggestions, plus personal tips on day trips, swimming spots, and delightful places to stay.

Things To Do in Monopoli

Get Lost in The Old Town

The modern city that surrounds the centro storico is full of colour, with buildings a kaleidoscope of pinks, oranges and blues. Move further into the past however, along the narrow winding streets that criss-cross an area of land that has been inhabited for centuries, and the city becomes white, with the only accents Monopoli’s sage green window shutters and balcony boxes in full bloom.

The historic centre is the perfect size to negotiate in a few hours. As always in Italy, simply follow your instinct, your curiosity and - depending on time of day - your nose along boutique lined streets, towards small squares, through arches and towards the sea.

Oh, and be sure to have a camera handy - their really is a photo around every corner!

Whilst we wouldn’t recommend planning a specific route around the centro storico, there are a few places that we’d like to draw your attention to:

Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia (maps) | More than just another pretty Italian church, Monopoli’s cathedral has a rather interesting tale attached to it… Dedicated to Madonna della Madia, who - as legend will have it - arrived here by sea on the December 15, 1117 on a raft bearing 31 wooden beams. Wooden beams that just so happens allowed the city to complete the church that had sat uncompleted for several years - how very fortunate!

The wooden church no longer stands, having been replaced with a rather impressive Baroque building in the 1700s, and whether you believe the myth or not, it’s definitely worth poking your head inside to admire the incredible ornate interior (which is infinitely more impressive than it looks from the outside). It’s open 7.30am -12pm, then 4pm - 8.30pm and is free to enter.

Beneath the Cathedral you’ll find Monopoli’s Museo e Sito Archeologico Cripta Romanica, a fascinating little museum housing the excavated remains of previous structures that have stood on this site including various tombs and crypts. It’s only open at the Thursday to Sunday (9.30am - 1.30pm, and then 4pm - 8pm) and costs €5 per person.

Palmieri Palace (maps) | Located in a quiet square of the same name, the 18th century Baroque palace provides a fantastic example of Lecce-inspired architecture. Built for the local Palmieri family, it is now in the hands of a charity and after having undergone significant renovation works hosts Monopoli’s International Festival of Art and Photography (PhEST, held every year from the end of August to early November). You can find full details of the event and the featured artists on the official website.

Whilst you’re in this area, stop by Il Baratto, a cool curio shop.

Chiesa di San Salvatore | Built by pirates who survived a shipwreck (or so the legend tells us), this little church at the edge of the sea is said to be the oldest in Monopoli, dating all the way back to the 4th century.

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffragio (maps) | Located next to the Cathedral is the fascinating Church of Purgatory, a place where mass was celebrated to pray for the souls of those in limbo. Beyond the wooden doorway engraved with skulls, the church has quite a pretty interior - until that is you notice the glass cabinet holding the 18th century mummified remains of eight founding members of the church and local administrators

Travel Tip // If you prefer to hear the stories of Monopoli from a local, and learn more about the city’s history (and lots of insider tips!) consider taking this city highlights tour (with tastings of local products), or this private walking tour with excellent reviews.

Take a Stroll Along The Lungomare

Before or after the sun climbs high in the sky, we’d highly recommend taking a stroll along the lungomare - the paved promenade that runs along the coast, skirting Monopoli’s old town.

Not only does it provide an alternative vantage point of the city and a cooling sea breeze, but it will also bring you to a number of the city’s historical highlights.

Il Bastione Santa Maria (maps) | Just beyond the port, opposite Chiesa Santa Maria della Zaffara Secolo, you will find evidence of an old defensive tower with two relatively well preserved canons, designed to protect Monopoli during more turbulent times

You’re able to climb the tower from which you can gain a better vantage point along the coast.

Castello di Carlo V (maps) | Built on a promontory (that’s a piece of land that juts out into the sea to most of us), this 16th century castle is a must-see for all who pass through Monopoli. Beautifully restored it now plays host to weddings, conferences and exhibitions.

Visitors can theoretically enter the castle, but do be aware that you only have access to a handful of exhibition rooms not the entire building. Additionally, you’re not always able to venture up to the rooftop for views over the old town and the sea - as was the case when we visited. Unfortunately, it seems that staff aren’t always forthcoming with this information when visitors are buying their tickets (and they’re pretty pricey at €10 each) so we’d highly recommend getting a firm answer on what you can access before stumping up any cash.

Spend The Day At The Local Beaches

Our first visit to Monopoli in the cooler month of March was not terribly conducive to dips in the sea and hours at the beach, so we made a point of seeking out its loveliest beaches, calas, and sunbathing spots on latest trip during a blissfully warm September.

There are lots of really excellent sunbathing and swimming spots, beaches and coves a short drive from Monopoli - you can find them all in our guide - but the town itself has a number of great options.

Cala Porta Vecchia (The Monopoli Town Beach)

With the historic centre forming the backdrop, this is a picturesque and uniquely Italian setting for a few hours swimming and sunbathing before, after, or between your exploring.

You can choose to lay down along the long strip of walkway and rocks beneath the old city walls and watchtower (maps), accessible by the stairs on the left, or the narrow strip of sand to the right. For the good spot on the sand, it's best to arrive early and do be aware that the area available is affected by the tide. Further to the right, you can also go native and lay your towel down on a smooth rock.

The swimming and water here is perfect, and it's a good spot if you're travelling with children.

Porto Bianco

If rocks ain't your thing, then Porto Bianco is probably the very best option for you within Monopoli.

A large patch of sand relative to Porta Vecchia and others, the water's crystal-clear, and it's in a nice setting. Family-friendly, close to the centre of town and all designated as a 'free beach', rather than cluttered with lidos, it's always a popular choice on a summer's weekend.

If the sandy section is too crowded, there's also plenty of preferable alternatives upon the grassy bank above or on the rocks on both sides.

Find it here.

Spiaggia di Cala Porto Rosso

Just round the shore from Porto Bianco - and around a 20 minute walk from the centre of Monopoli - Spiaggia di Cala Porto Rosso (maps) is our favourite beach in Monopoli town.

The sheltered inlet has warm, shallow waters for swimming, a decent-sized area of sandy free beach, and plenty rocky areas on both sides if you'd prefer to avoid the crowds and umbrellas below.

Looking For Beaches Near Monopoli?

In addition to the excellent beaches within the town’s limits, there are several really excellent options just a short car ride away, ideal for those visiting Monopoli as part of a Puglia road trip, who have their own vehicle.

All the names highlighted below are links to the specific location on Google Maps - don’t say we don’t make things easy for you!

Calamarena | Popular with in the know locals, this wild cove has crystal clear water, sunbeds for rent and a small bar with good Aperol spritz.

Cala Paradiso | Part beach club - but with a section of sand that can be used for free - this is a very popular beach during the warmer months.

Spiaggia di Porto Marzano | A small sandy beach that is free to access, with wild surroundings. Popular with families and also has free parking and a bar during the warmest months.

Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo | A lively sandy cove at the foot of an abbey, this isn’t a great choice for those who want a peaceful Monopoli beach experience, but is incredibly popular. Also has a nice bar/restaurant renting out sunbeds and parasols.

Spiaggia di Santo Stefano | Overlooked by a medieval castle, this is probably the most photogenic beach in the area (seriously, just take a looks at the parasols), with beautiful water to boot!

Capitolo | If you prefer long stretches of sand over small coves, Capitolo is the one for you. Located nearby Egnazi Archeological Park, it has a variety of beach clubs for all budgets as well as free sections of beach.

Find out more details and photos to choose the right one for your travel style in our main post: The11 Best Monopoli Beaches

Porto Antico di Monopoli

Is there anything more photogenic than colourful boats atop blue waters?

Throw in weather-worn fishermen sorting their early morning catch, and that’s reason enough for us to remain harbourside, camera in hand, for quite some time.

The red and blue boats - called ‘gonzo’ - are actually pretty iconic for the region, many made by local ship making artisans, and their contrast against the white washed walls of Monopoli’s old town is quite marvellous.

Top tip | If you just can’t get enough of the harbour view, consider staying in this stunning little Airbnb which used to be an old fisherman’s cottage.

Head Out To Sea

If the sight of colourful boats inspires a need to get out on the water yourself, you should consider joining a boat tour. Not only is it a fantastic way to access caves and grottos that are inaccessible by foot, but gives you an alternative vantage point on the gorgeous coastline.

There are lots of options available - and you’ll see various posters around the city advertising day trips. However, if you’re looking to book one online and in advance (with the ability to cancel up to 24 hours before), consider:

· This 2.5 hour tour that takes in Cala Corvino, Porto Alga, and the Grotta degli Innamorati before heading onwards to Polignano a Mare, with views of Grotta delle Monache, Eremita Island, and Lama Monachile. It’s got fantastic reviews and includes lunch and drinks.

· If you feel like pushing the boat out, this longer option for a private group includes snorkel gear and time for swimming and also heads to Polignano a Mare.

· For an alternative take on the Apulian Riviera, the intrepid amongst you could also try your hand at scuba diving, on this popular ‘Discover Scuba Diving’ experience that departs from Monopoli.

Indulge In a Local Treat

If you’re not hungry enough for a big lunch, are just looking for something to tide you over to dinner, Monopoli is an excellent place to to try your very first panzerotto.

A beloved street food in Puglia (although we found Neapolitan pizza frita to be very similar) this golden brown, deep-fried pastry stuffed with a savoury mixture of cheese and tomato sauce is everything that is right about Italian food - simple but gloriously delicious, and likely to make you gain a few pounds if eaten with no restraint!

You’ll find panzerotti places all over the region, but we tried our very first one here in Monopoli, at the excellent Madià morsi di felicità (maps), widely recognised as selling the city’s best.

Travel Tip // If we had you at Puglian street food, consider joining this highly-rated street food tour of Monopoli. As it’s a walking tour, you’ll learn about the city’s layout and history at the same time as enjoying several delectable and portable local treats including ice cream, focaccia panzerottini, plus local wine, accompanied by taralli and olives.

Alternatively, for a more in-depth appreciation of Puglian cuisine and produce, consider joining one of the several food-based experiences at nearby Masseria Spina in Monopoli's Parco Rurale. They offer a pasta-making lab, wine tasting, olive oil tasting, or a local food tasting.

Take a Day Trip

Monopoli's location makes it an ideal place to base yourself for your Puglia explorations, with easy access by car (and occasionally public transport) to many of the region's biggest attractions.

These are some of our top recommendations for excellent day trips from Monopoli:

Polignano a Mare | The home of Puglia's most famous beach - Cala Porto - Polignano is a popular stop on all Puglian itineraries. Only 15 minutes away by car (and train) from Monopoli, it’s an ideal day trip.

Find out more in our guide, including advice on how to get there.

Archeological park and National Museum of Egnazia (maps) | Dating back to the Bronze Age, the ancient town of Egnazia is home to a number of impressive Roman and Messapic ruins. Excavation is ongoing, and whilst most of the high value objects have been plundered over the years, it remains a fascinating site for those with an interest in archeology.

The park and museum is open daily 8.30am - 7pm during the summer, and 8.30 am to 4.30 pm during the winter months. A combined entry ticket costs €10 per person, with various other tickets available. Very easy to visit with a car, but there’s also a public bus that runs from Monopoli in summer.

Alberobello | A UNESCO Heritage site with its iconic trulli, Alberobello is a must-do in the region. For us, its touristy vibe make it preferable to visit on a day trip.

You can read all our tips for visiting Alberobello in our short guide, and if you’d like to take a tour from Monopoli (that also includes Matera) this one has recently become available.

Alternatively, if you’d like to join a walking tour when you arrive, this one has excellent reviews.

Ostuni | When readers ask, Ostuni is usually our other recommendation for a great place to stay as a base for your Puglia road trip, but if you plan on using Monopoli as a base, this very pretty hilltop white city is also possible to visit as a day trip with most of its major sites easy to negotiate in a few hours.

You can find out much more in our guide to Ostuni.

The Villages of the Valle d'Itria | The pretty villages of Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo are some of our favourite places in Puglia, and if you set aside the entire day, it's certainly possible to visit them all at once from Monopoli.

Pizza & People Watching in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 

A nondescript glass of chilled white wine at a nondescript bar in a beautiful Italian piazza; there are few things we’d rather do in this country than pull up a wooden chair and watch the tales of local life unfold before us.

And in Monopoli, the very best place to do that is in Pizza Giuseppe Garibaldi.

It’s a wonderful to place to sit at any time of day, but it truly comes alive after 5pm when visitors and residents alike flock to the many bars and restaurants that line its perimeter for an early evening aperitivo.

Top Tip // We had a couple of really excellent Neapolitan pizzas at Piazzetta 10 Pizza & Restaurant (maps) in the piazza. The tables outside are excellent for people watching, the white wine by the glass is rather good but do be aware that they may be victims of their own success - recent visitors state the prices are now on the high side and service a little gruff (if you eat here, we’d love to hear from you).

An excellent alternative may be Chinè - Andrew’s sister ate here last summer and said it was the best pizza she had in all of Puglia (and she’s married to an Italian!). Oh, and if you’ve still got room for dessert, be sure to check out Bella Blue Gelateria (maps) - the pistachio ice cream was excellent!

Where to Stay in Monopoli

As we’ve mentioned quite a bit, Monopoli makes a fantastic base for your wider Puglian adventures. So, what you’ll find below is a selection of our personal accommodation recommendations, including Airbnbs, hotels and guest houses.

Airbnbs in Monopoli

There are an astoundingly large number of Airbnbs in Monopoli - a number that has increased significantly since our first trip to Monopoli - so we’ve put together this separate article with our pick of the city’s best.

We have however selected a handful of our favourites below:

Palazzo Manzoni | A stunning three-storey traditional home full of original features that has been beautifully restored. The interiors are modern but elegant and the rooftop - with views over the historic centre - just wonderful.

Luxurious Accommodation in Heart of Monopoli | Set inside a former convent in Monopoli’s historic centre, this two-suite apartment pairs vaulted ceilings and original stone walls with a confident, contemporary layer of design, art, and sculpture. Both suites are spacious and private - one arranged around a freestanding bathtub and lounge area, the other split across a mezzanine - with an open-plan kitchen and living space at the heart of the home. A splendid covered loggia overlooking the village and a small patio with a seasonal jacuzzi extend the living space outdoors.

Terrazza Ninetta | Located just a few minutes walk from the water, this split-level apartment keeps things calm while staying firmly connected to town life. The interior blends traditional southern Italian architecture with a playful contemporary twist - bold accents in earthy tones set against bright white walls - spread across a compact living space below and a separate double bedroom upstairs. A large, fully furnished terrace sits above the rooftops, extending the living space outdoors.

Mamylù La Mia Casa Margherita | One of our absolute favourites in this list, we just adore the decor in this beautiful apartment. It’s located in the downtown area rather than the historical district, but still within easy walking distance to all of Monopoli’s attractions (including the beach). If we were looking for a longer base in Monopoli, this would likely be it!

Cozy, Comfy and Beautifully Restored Loft | If you’re passionate about contemporary interior design, be sure to take a look at this fantastically modern apartment. Successfully marrying East London loft vibes with more traditional Pugliese elements, it has a full kitchen, studio style bedroom and even free bikes. Located just outside the old town, the nearby free parking makes it a good shout for those doing a Puglia road trip.

La Casetta di Gió | This studio Airbnb is so.damn.cool! Located in a traditional Pugliese cave style building, it definitely won’t suit everyone - but it’s absolutely perfect for active younger couples and single travellers, and those that love a bit of quirky style. It’s also incredibly budget-friendly for its central location.

If your travel style is more apartment than hotel, then head on over to the best airbnbs in Monopoli to find out more!

Guesthouses & Hotels in Monopoli

Dimora Pietrabianca | At £83 a night, this hotel is exceptionally good value. A stone’s throw from Pizza Garibaldi, it is clean and modern with excellent facilities.

B&B Portorosso | A short walk from the old town (and very close to Cala Porto Rosso, hence the name), this is a super stylish B&B for those that appreciate modern design, with large rooms and clean lines.

Orazio33 B&B | Located just a stone’s throw from Porto Antico, this lovely little B&B offers contemporary styling in a traditional Puglian property. It also benefits from a gorgeous shared roof terrace.

Monopoli has a number of excellent hotel/B&Bs around the same price point, of which we’d recommend Palazzo Indelli, B&B A C-caste and Dimora Maio.

Hotel Don Ferrante | Definitely not a hotel to suit every budget, but if you’re looking to splurge on a truly luxurious hotel, Don Ferrante is very highly rated, with all the facilities you’d expect from a 5* hotel.

There are also a number of beautiful Masseira (essentially very fancy countryside retreats) a handful of miles from Monopoli which remain ideally located for exploring the region, with easy access to and from the city. If this sounds like something you might enjoy, our two picks are Masseria Torrepietra and Masseria Il Melograno. Both have fantastic facilities and exceptional design.

How To Get To Monopoli From Bari

Given Monopoli's close proximity to Bari (it's only 29 miles away), the vast majority of people visiting Monopoli - be that as a day trip or using it as a base - will arrive from the city.

Bari to Monopoli by Car /

On all three occasions that we've visited Puglia, we've rented a car for the duration of our stay. This is an amazing destination for an Italian road trip, and having your own wheels will allow you to make the best of your time in the region.

The 29 miles between Bari and Monopoli are easily covered by car, and the journey should take around 45 minutes, dependent upon traffic.

If you’re flying into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport and picking up your rental car there, it’s a straightforward 45 minute drive to Monopoli (don’t drive through Bari) on the SS16 highway. For all our Italian road trips, we we look and book via an aggregator like AutoEurope to get the best price for our dates.

If renting a car, then just make sure to check with your accommodation in advance about the best place to park up in Monopoli - some places will have free parking, but most won’t (especially those in the old town).

Read more // Things to Know Before Driving in Puglia and Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

Bari to Monopoli by Train /

For those not keen on renting a car to experience Puglia, the good news is that the train network along the west coast of the region is actually pretty good - including between Bari and Monopoli. 

There are regular departures leaving from Bari Centrale (Google Maps) multiple times a day (€3.30 per person), and journey time is between 25-55 minutes depending upon which train you take. Please note that the centro storico is around a 25 minute walk from the train station.

If you are coming from Bari Airport directly to Monopoli, you can jump on a train there instead of coming into the city. The trains cost €4 from here.

To check prices, availability and timetables, use visit the official Trenitalia website. You can book and pay for your ticket on arrival to the station, or alternatively you can book them in advance, online.

Before using Italy’s train network , we highly recommend reading our guide ‘12 Essential Tips For Train Travel in Italy’

Travel Better in Puglia

Our Pick of The Best Airbnbs in Monopoli

14 Things to Know Before a Puglia Road Trip

Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

The Art of the Italian Lido

A Short Guide to Alberobello | Puglia’s Trulli Town

A Short Guide to Polignano a Mare | Puglia’s Most Famous Beach

A Short Guide to Ostuni | The White City

A Short Guide to Locorotondo | Puglia’s Prettiest Little Town

17 Really Useful Things to Know Before Visiting Puglia

What is the Coperto in Italy?

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Lecce

Travel More in Italy

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Updated January 2026

It was The Simpsons that first introduced me to Albania.

An episode from the early ‘90s golden period, where an exchange student called Adil Hoxha arrives in Springfield and hosted by the cartoon family. He’s friendly and polite - the opposite of Bart - but it turns out that he’s actually a spy sent by the Communist government of a secretive small European country to gather information on American nuclear power plants.

Six- or seven-year-old me almost certainly thought the country was made up.

Fast forward thirty years, and a lot more people know an awful lot more about Albania.

During the Cold War half of the 20th century, the small Balkan country was a hermit kingdom of sorts, self-reliant by choice and closed to the outside world. Ruled for forty years by the increasingly paranoid dictator Enver Hoxha (the namesake for Adil), it was the world’s first atheist state and extremely isolated due to ideological disagreements first with the Soviet Union and then with China.

Think of it as a European North Korea, just across the water from Italy.

Tourism was virtually non-existent, with any visitor closely monitored and often required to get a conforming haircut at the border.

When Hoxha’s statues were pulled down and democracy arrived in 1991, a significant number of citizens took the opportunity to leave the poverty and potential chaos behind, escaping to Italy and Greece.

Since then, migration has remained a common theme for Albanians and this - along with the darker side of its economy - continues to shape most outside perspectives.

One suspicion merely replaced another.

But, in recent years, travellers have been clamouring for an adventure in Albania. Tempted by viral TikTok videos, promises of a ‘cheap’ Italy or Greece, or curious about the reality behind the headlines focussed on small boats, car washes, grow houses, and organised crime, there was a moment when it felt like the only place to have your Euro summer was in the country more known for people leaving.

We headed there on a road trip from the imposing peaks of the Accursed Alps to stone villages scattered across southern valleys, via a gorgeous array of beaches and bays along two seas, and are delighted to now share our favourite things to do in Albania.

Whether you’re Balkan backpacking and beach-hopping, heading out to hike and delve into the history, or wanting to craft an itinerary with wine, sunshine, castles and culture, you’ll find all the inspiration, ideas, and tips you need to help plan your own trip - plus an honest perspective on the overrated parts.

This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Albania.

Hike in The Accursed Mountains & Theth-Valbonë

Whilst it’s the beaches of the south which draw more and more visitors to Albania each year, it’s the mountains in the far north that will blow you away.

The scenery rivalled anything we’ve seen in Switzerland, France, Scotland, and northern Italy.

The wonderfully-named Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps, take some effort to reach but give you access to breathtakingly pure, clean landscapes. We shaped our whole road trip route to do the unmissable Valbonë Pass hike, but you don’t have to be a hardcore hiker to enjoy the tranquility and trails of the lesser-visited highlands.

The quiet villages of Theth and Valbonë, both surrounded by picturesque peaks, offer an accessible blend of scenery and tranquility, and you can venture out on a range of easy to difficult hikes and walks, or simply choose to disconnect and reconnect with nature for a few days. Both are in a stunning location, with Albanian Alps acting as a constant backdrop, and due to transport connections it's a good idea to plan to spend a couple of days up there to make the most of it.

Just try to avoid singing ‘The Sound of Music’ at the top of your lungs every morning…

Know | Due to the weather and conditions, the season for heading up to the Albanian Alps unfortunately starts quite late in the year, typically around June until October. Whilst it’s possible to visit before that, the mountain hiking trails will be impassable due to snow.

Book | Public transport up to Theth and Valbone is really limited and the logistics can add an extra day or two to Albania itineraries.

If you don’t have a rental car or enough time for that, then consider joining this popular three-day tour of Valbona and Theth from Tirana or this slightly cheaper alternative

Tip | For road trippers, the new road to Theth has dramatically improved accessibility. Whilst it’s still one hell of a drive - all hairpin bends, narrow passes, and first gear most of the way - thankfully it’s much smoother and less accident prone than its previous reputation.

Stay | We loved Guesthouse Mehmeti in Valbone, whilst Villa Ujëvara has incredible mountain views in Theth.

Plan / The Valbona Pass Hike Guide

Explore The Upper Albanian Riviera

Albania is embraced by the Adriatic Sea to the north and the Ionian Sea to the south.

The very best beaches are found along a stretch of the Ionian generally known as the Albanian Riviera. It runs from city of Vlorë in the north and ends down at Butrint National Park, and is blessed with the signature blues most of you will be hoping for.

There are so many stunning beaches to discover.

For us, the best way to explore the Albanian Rivera is to split it in two sections - the wilder north and the more developed south - and sort your itinerary accordingly according to your travel style and preferences.

Accessed via the bum-clenching Llogara Pass, the northern section is home to several of our favourite beaches like Gjipe, Grama Bay, Aquarium, Guma, Jale, and Borsh. Some are remote and difficult to access, some require a boat trip, whilst others are ideal for a lazy day of sunbathing and swimming; we suggest spending at least a few days exploring this area is absolutely one of the best things to do in Albania.

Know | If you've ever spent a summer in Italy, you'll be prepared for the biggest, most divisive and most important feature of the Albanian coastline - the private beach clubs. These take over some bays and charge quite a bit, but there is thankfully lots of free, public beach to spread out on in the northern section.

Tip | The coast here is becoming more popular each year with foreign travellers, but it’s still the longstanding favourite of locals. late July to the end of August is the peak season, both for the temperatures and the crowds, and we’d suggest the best overall experience will be in June and September to early October.

Plan / We took a lot of time to write the free, definitive guide - The 19 Best Beaches in Albania - to help you find the very best beaches for your trip & tastes, plan ahead, avoid some common mistakes, and understand some of the eccentricities of Albania’s beach culture. It’s long, but so many readers have been in touch to tell us how much it helped them travel better and find their perfect beach, so don’t leave home without reading it!

Go To Gjirokaster

The Stone City is where two of Albania’s famous sons were born.

The dictator Enver Hoxha and the writer Ismail Kadare were raised in the same street nearly three decades apart in Gjirokaster, and left starkly different legacies for the country. While Kadare’s former residence is now a testament to his literary works and status as Albania’s greatest author, Hoxha’s is an ethnographic museum a few doors down where one must open black boxes in a darkened room to learn of his ruthless cruelty and transformation from hero to villain.

Set within the stunning Drino Valley, this UNESCO World Heritage town is incredibly easy on the eye. Composed of pale stone and slate, it offers historical insights, culture, hiking, Ottoman architecture, and a surprisingly good laid back nightlife in its nooks, alleys, and slanted cobblestone streets.

We really wish we had spent another day or two there, and for those who are less-focussed on beach time, this town will likely be a highlight of your trip.

Know | Don’t miss the 1.5km Cold War Tunnel under the castle - a secret for years, it’s been left pretty much how it was found in the 1990s.

Book | Gjirokaster is the ideal place to do a traditional cooking class or learn more about the history with this excellently-priced three-hour walking tour.

Tip | The Albanian currency is the Lek, named after Alexander the Great. It’s not possible to find or exchange it outside the country, so you should arrive with some Euro or British pounds to convert until you can withdraw from an ATM. However, Euro is so widely accepted and quoted across the country that it actually feels like there are two currencies, and we recommend bringing a decent amount of Euro if you have it available (cash is still king here).

To save on fees and get better rates, we recommend getting a Wise account before you head out.

Stay | Two or three nights will be ideal, and if you’re looking for a beautiful hotel in a historic building that gives you an authentic taste of Ottoman design, make it Hotel Musée. For any backpackers or budget travellers, then Stone City Hostel should be your first choice.

Plan / Our Travel Guide to Gjirokaster

Hang Out In Himarë

Himarë is a great place for travellers looking for a chilled out base by the Ionian Sea.

A small coastal town, rather than a beach with a modern tourism development growing around it, life revolves around the summer season. There’s an excellent trio of public beaches, and it’s an ideal hub for chilled out sunbathing days, boat tours to secluded bays, and beach-hopping day trips along the Albanian Riviera by rental car or public transport.

The beaches to the north and south of the town are amongst the best you’ll find in the country - with most of them less than a 30-minute drive away.

There’s also Old Himarë, a ghost town atop a cliff overlooking the sea. Founded by the Greeks 3,500 years ago, it deserves a lot more attention than most tourists give it.

Whilst the town may lack the fancier hotels and holiday resorts you'll find elsewhere, and is a bit dishevelled or dog-eared in parts, but it was a great fit for our travel style and every traveller we spoke to much preferred laid-back Himarë to the more expensive and more Insta-famous flashy southern resort town of Ksamil (more on that later).

Know | It is not currently recommended to drink the tap water in Albania. We took our trusty travel filter water bottles and used them daily to fill up wherever we were in the country, saving us a small fortune in bottled water (plus all the plastic waste).

You can buy one on Amazon here or direct from the Water-to-Go website.

Stay | The delightful Soñar en el Mar for something nicer, Himara Hostel for something social, or this beautiful Airbnb if you want something right by the beach (or Vila Nacios Apartment if you want something a little cheaper and more peaceful).

Tip | Alternatively, if you’re looking for more of a fly + flop beach holiday base with more modern facilities, then consider Dhermi. It’s half an hour from Himarë and one of the region’s better beach resorts with countless clubs, restaurants, and hotels along the lovely 2+ kilometre long stretch of sand. Palladium and Alevra are two great accommodation options to consider.

Plan / Our Travel Guide To Himarë

Do An Albanian Road Trip

Albania is made for a road trip, and renting your own wheels is the ideal way to see stitch it all together.

As we love a road trip here at Along Dusty Roads, we knew that hiring a car was going to be the only option for our travel style and plans to slowly go from the north to the south of Albania. The country’s bus network is quite limited and there are no trains, so a rental also makes things much easier from a practical perspective and opens up several hard-to-reach areas of the coast.

Unless you’re a nervous driver, the road trip experience is also quite memorable.

Across our two week Albania road trip, we negotiated hairpin switchbacks and mountain passes, narrow one-way roads with no passing places, dusty beach downhills, congestion, dodgy CD sellers, log-jams, young guys speeding in Swiss-plated Porsches, police stops, watermelon and corn-on-the-cob stalls, half-finished houses, and a daily parade of goats, sheep, and the odd obstinate cow staring us down in the middle of the road.

So think of renting a car and heading out not just as a way to get around the country, but a way to really see more sides of it.

Know | Whilst several of the main highways and roads in Albania have seen significant investment and improvement in the last few years, there are still some in quite poor condition.

Book | We recommend looking + booking your car hire in Albania via two aggregators that we use for all our road trips: Rentalcars.com and AutoEurope. It’s a good to check prices and availability on both to make sure you’re getting the best deal possible - we picked up and dropped off at Tirana Airport.

Tip | You’ll also see lots of travellers in motorhomes and camper vans. Campsites are very common across the country and most accept vans, and some car parks are designated for camper van stays too. Quality and facilities vary quite bit. Talking with other travellers, typical costs are €5-10 for an overnight space.

Plan / Everything You Need To Know About Driving in Albania + Our Albania Road Trip Route

Tirana & The House of Leaves

The capital city met and missed some of our expectations, but it’s an essential stop for everyone hoping to understand Albania’s past and future.

Tirana's skyline has transformed dramatically, with much of the Soviet-influenced architecture replaced by modern apartment blocks and office buildings. This makeover is fuelled by a significant influx of money - much of it dirty - that shows no signs of slowing down. The city is currently in the midst of a construction boom, a property bubble, and a corruption scandal, all while thousands of flats remain empty. For an in-depth look at this issue, we highly recommend a recent article in The Times.

For the traveller though, beyond a mish-mash of mostly unappealing aesthetics, your time in Tirana will be a pleasant enough two or three days depending how much you really want to dedicate to the city over the coast and the mountains.

For us, however long you spend there, The House of Leaves is unmissable.

Also known as the Museum of Secret Surveillance, the one-time hospital was taken over by Ministry of the Interior and transformed into the headquarters of the Sigurimi (Albania’s secret police) under Hoxha’s hardline Stalinist dictatorship. It’s incredibly well-designed and curated, thoughtfully revealing the extent of the repression and paranoia apparatus, as well as unexpected aspects of daily life from the period.

This, alongside the ‘Site of Witness and Memory’ in Shkodër, are the essential places to learn of Albania’s darker political history.

Know | Hoxha’s paranoia about attacks from east and west resulted in the construction of over 170,000 bunkers in Albania. Many remain in place, especially along the coast, but BunkArt 2 is perhaps the most well-known. In the heart of Tirana, it’s been converted into a popular underground museum further chronicling the Communist-era repression. Lots of visitors put it amongst the best things to do in Albania, but we think you should prioritise House of Leaves if you only have time to visit one.

Read | If you want to learn more about Albania’s isolationist period, then we can happily recommend two books we took on our road trip. The first is Freedom by Lia Ypi, a surprisingly entertaining biographical account of her childhood in Albania in the late 80s and early 90s. The second is Mud Sweeter Than Honey, a powerful collection of testimonies.

Stay | We treated ourselves to a fancier, modern option in Hotel Stela Center primarily because it had private parking for guests, and we really did not fancy trying to find a space in Tirana.

Plan / How To Spend A Day in Tirana

The Secret Beaches of Ksamil

The resort town of Ksamil gets a lot of attention.

Touted as the ‘European Maldives’ and frequently on social media feeds, it has mushroomed into an in-demand resort town with a lot of on-going development, a lot of money washing around, and a lot of people packed under parasols on its feature beach.

In peak summer, not an inch is available to the public for free, with beach clubs dominating the area and covering nearly every grain of imported sand.

And the prices charged will definitely make you reconsider the affordability of Albania.

Ksamil is the place for wealthy young locals to be seen and splash their cash, with the desired clientele at several places absolutely not being a backpacker or budget-conscious traveller. New hotels and restaurants are popping up all the time and, whilst the vibe and trajectory may appeal to some, it wasn’t our cup of tea.

That doesn’t mean you should all totally avoid Ksamil, as it remains more appealing than Sarandë and the most likely base from which to explore the southern Albanian Riviera’s excellent beaches on day trips and visit the ruins of Butrint.

Outside of the high summer season, it may also have much more charm to it…

Know | Mirror Beach and Plazhi I Pulëbardhës are two fabulous beaches less than 5km from Ksamil, and they should absolutely be on your hit list. Nearby Monastery Beach used to be one of the most popular and beautiful in the country, but it’s now closed for construction and inaccessible, with our hunch being that it’s likely to become a private beach resort.

Tip | If you’re staying in Ksamil, you need to factor in the cost of the sunbeds and umbrellas at the beach clubs. In peak summer, you’ll be looking at €20-35 was more common, whilst at the fancier beach clubs in Ksamil, you’re talking €50 for two beds in the best spot and up to €120 for their VIP option! Any drinks and food consumed are charged in addition.

Stay | After a lot of research before and after visiting, we honestly think we the place we ended up staying - Area Hotel - is one of the better options.

Plan / Our Ksamil Travel Guide

Berat & Wine Country

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 due to its distinctive and well-preserved style of Ottoman architecture, Berat is a favourite of many first-time visitors in Albania.

Known as “The City of a Thousand Windows” because of a mistranslation, it may be the place that reveals how much more there is to appreciate about the country’s history and culture beyond its bleak 20th century.

Split by the Osumi river and spread across three historic neighbourhoods, the compact town is photogenic and its cobblestone streets a pleasure to get lost amongst, but it’s the fact that Berat is the jump-off point for several wineries and vineyards - yep, Albania has a burgeoning wine scene - which means you should definitely consider spending more than just a day here.

Know | During our summer visit, we learned that kayaking in the nearby Osumi Canyon and Tomor Lake is a popular activity in Berat. However, it’s seasonal and very dependent on water levels - February to June are considered the best months, whilst it was way too low when we were there in July.

Book | If you only have time for a day trip to Berat, considering joining this highly-rated three-hour walking tour. Staying for a couple of days but don’t have a car? Make it out to the wineries on this excellent half-day tour.

Stay | We loved our stay in the family-run Osumi Guesthouse, which was in one of the Ottoman houses and included a lovely traditional breakfast each morning. If that doesn’t suit your travel style, then consider Hotel Ansel and Berat Backpackers as alternative options.

Plan / The Best Things To Do in Berat, Albania

Get Stuck in Shkodër

The gateway to the north, and likely first stop for anyone hopping over the border with Montenegro, we initially viewed the city of Shkodër purely as a necessary pitstop before and after the Albanian Alps.

It left a much deeper impression though, and we preferred it over the capital Tirana.

A place where many still ride bicycles and travellers can easily linger for longer than they planned, Shkodër offers majestic views from ruins of Rozafa Castle, access to Lake Shkodra - the largest lake in the Balkans that goes by many names - and a nice array of traditional and modern restaurants and bars in the Rruga G'juhadol area.

Most striking though is the aforementioned 'Site of Witness and Memory' - the most impactful and meaningful exhibit we visited in Albania. Housed in the one-time orphanage, hospital, and convent that was confiscated and taken over by Ministry of the Interior in 1946 as pre-trial holding cells for political prisoners, it’s the first site to commemorate the victims of Hoxha's ideologically-driven dictatorship and lay bare the realities of the country’s ban on all religion in 1967.

Know | If you are heading to the Albanian Alps, then you’ll probably need to spend at least two nights in Shkodër, with one at the start and one after you come back. The city is also the place to grab the daily shuttle to/from the Alps, but you should try to reserve in advance as places are very limited.

The city is also the gateway to a day trip or overnight stay on the increasingly popular - but possibly overrated - Lake Komani.

Book | If you don’t have a car or time to spend a few nights in Shkodër, then consider joining this day tour from Tirana, which includes the castle, the city, and the lake.

Stay | We stayed at the excellent Mi Casa Es Tu Casa, whilst those looking for something a bit more upscale should consider the popular Hotel Tradita

Plan / Our Guide to Shkodër, Albania

Stare At The Blue Eye

Not too far from the coastal city of Saranda, the Blue Eye is an impossibly deep natural spring, responsible for gushing out much of the country’s fresh water at a rate of 18,400 litres per second!

Its beauty and setting in lush surrounds have combined to make it one of the most popular things to do in Albania, but the site and experience is unfortunately now on the ‘big tourism’ trajectory: contrary to spending a summer day immersed in remote nature and submerged in turquoise waters, it’s better to anticipate crowds, electric scooters, and much more modern development in the vicinity.

It will remain on nearly every first-timer’s itinerary though.

Although many expect that they can swim in the Blue Eye itself, this is now actually forbidden - but you are permitted in the surrounding river waters. Be aware that the water here is permanently in the 12°C range and verrrrrry fresh.

Know | Most will visit the Blue Eye on a day trip from Saranda or Ksamil, whilst road trippers can include it as a stop between Gjirokaster and the coast. It’s a 4km round-trip walk for the Blue Eye along a paved road, and lots of people now do it with electric scooters - but there is an alternative route through the trees to turn it into a more enjoyable hike.

Book | If you want logistics taken care of, then check out this tour with round-trip transfers from Saranda and an English-speaking guide

Tip | As the Blue Eye is firmly established one of Albania’s most popular things to do, it’s guaranteed to be crowded every day in summer. For the best experience, we highly recommend arriving early. Also, don’t be a dick and try to swim in the actual Blue Eye.

Plan / How To Visit The Blue Eye in Albania

Guesthouses & Local Experiences

We try not to do clichés here at Along Dusty Roads, but it feels important to share that we felt very welcomed as visitors throughout Albania - and the warmth we received at several family-run accommodations was remarkable.

Perhaps it’s because tourism here is still widely viewed as a positive, or there are negative stereotypes to counter, or there is something running deeper in a culture and people that were cut off from the world so long.

Whatever the reasons, it shone through.

The experience we had makes us confident suggesting that you try to go out of your way to stay in a few family-run guesthouses. Not only is the hospitality often off the charts, but if you land at a good old school one, the rooms and beds are plush with thick rugs and blankets, and breakfast homemade with lots of local produce (we still dream of our one in the mountains at Guesthouse Mehmeti).

Know | It is polite, and expected, that you’ll take your shoes off when entering guesthouses. There’s usually a rack to put them, as well as lovely little house slippers to borrow.

Do | The 'Xhiro' is a lovely Albanian tradition. Similar to the Italian passeggiata, families, lovers, and groups of friends will take to the streets in the early evening for a stroll and some social time, and the traveller's role is to simply join, observe, and enjoy. In Berat, make sure to head to Bulevardi Republika to partake or people-watch!

Learn | The local language is Albanian, and if you want to get some basic words and phrases under your belt, this YouTube video is a decent starting place. However, you’ll find that English is the main language of tourism, and it’s very widely and excellently spoken by the younger generation.

Krujë & Skanderbeg

Balanced on mountain slopes less than an hour's drive from Tirana Airport, the town of Krujë is probably the most important in the Albanian story.

This was the stronghold of the man they call Skanderbeg, the leader of the Albanian resistance and scourge of the Ottoman Empire. A sort of Braveheart in the Balkans figure, he is a much-celebrated national hero over here and you’ll see his name, face, and got-horn helmet everywhere.

Krujë remains the best place to learn of him and his exploits, with the town’s castle redesigned in the 1980s - party by Enver Hoxha’s daughter - to house the Muzeu Kombëtar Gjergj Kastrioti (The Skanderbeg Museum).

Though small, Krujë is also home to one of the oldest bazaars in Albania - ideal for picking up some souvenirs or vintage memorabilia - and offers a privileged setting to enjoy a slow lunch with a view.

Know | You will find various alternative spellings for places in Albania due to translations of the umlaut: Krujë, for example, also goes by Kruja, Shkodër is Shkodra, Himarë is Himara, and Sarandë is Saranda.

Book | If you're not doing an Albanian road trip and not planning to stay overnight in Kruja, then the most convenient option may be to join this highly-rated full-day tour from Tirana

Stay | There aren’t too many place available in the town, but the family-run Emiliano Guesthouse by the castle is one of the better options.

Plan / The Krujë Travel Guide

Butrint Archaeological Park

Shaded by trees and surrounded by wetlands, Butrint is considered the country’s most important archeological site and gained its UNESCO World Heritage Site listing in 1992.

A 10-minute drive south of Ksamil, the settlement has been occupied by the Greeks, Romans, and briefly by the Venetians, before it was abandoned in the Middle Ages due to marshes making it unviable; today the marshes and the sprawling ruins combine to make Butrint feel like a nature site as much as a historical one.

It offers a change of pace and interest from Ksamil, Sarande and the beaches, and highlights include the Ancient Greek theatre, the Baptistery, and the bizarrely straight stone cuts, whilst the small museum has potential if they improve a few aspects.

Go | Entry is 1000 lek for foreign adults (cash only), and the park is open every day from 8am to 7pm. Find it here on Google Maps

Know | We recommend spending a couple of hours exploring Butrint and suggest arriving in the early morning or late afternoon so you can enjoy it without the crowds and before/after the heat spikes. Most of the site is outdoors and you cover it on foot, so comfy footwear, suncream, and plenty water is essential.

Tip | Whilst Tirana Airport is the most common entry point for anyone flying into Albania, a popular alternative is to take the more frequent and cheaper flights to the Greek island of Corfu. From there, you can hop on a 30-60 minute ferry from there to the port of Saranda - check schedules and book on DirectFerries.

However, the upcoming opening of Vlora International Airport (Vlorë International Airport) is going to bring many more tourists straight to the Albanian coast, and will likely become the most popular flight route for beach-focussed trips.

Plan / A Guide to Visiting Butrint National Park

Travel More, Travel Better in Albania

Updated January 2026

It's the British who are to blame for the demotion of Ciutadella.

Founded by the Carthaginians, annexed by the Caliphate of Cordoba, and fought over by those who sailed the seas of the Mediterranean in search of footholds and fortune, this citadel on the westernmost point of Menorca was a strategic crossroads for centuries.

For the incoming Royal Navy though, who had captured the island from Spain, it simply wouldn’t do; the island’s administrative and political capital was moved eastward to the harbour of Mahón in 1714.

Perhaps influenced by the decision of our ancestors, we earmarked Ciutadella as simply a place to go for a day trip when we were originally planning for our month in Menorca. The rationale was that one doesn’t come to a Balearic island like this to spend too much time in its cities, no matter how small or charming, and we were already starting out the trip with a few days over in the new capital.

Thankfully, as with most of our best laid plans and any pre-plotted itinerary, that notion eventually went out the window. After a quiet week on the lesser visited north of the island, we were craving a bit of life and buzz, and decided that a couple of nights in Menorca’s old capital would probably be the best bet.

That last-minute decision was vindicated the moment we stepped out into the gorgeous streets of the historic quarter, lit up by the afternoon sun.

Best viewed as a city break destination in and of itself, or a practical base for day trips to beaches and other highlights of the island, you’ll be equally drawn in by Ciutadella’s understated grandeur and character, its pockets of street art and culture, the gentle buzz of its evenings streets, and the sprinkling of nightlife (though nothing wild) by the waterfront. And when you crave the sea or sand, simply head out on a popular boat trip from the little, historic harbour.

In this destination guide, we've shared everything you do need to know before you visit, including our favourite things to do in Ciutadella, recommendations on where to eat & drink, unmissable day trips to take, and the best beaches nearby.

We also included information on transport connections to the city from elsewhere on the island (including the airport), plus surprisingly important insights on where to park in a city where you can’t drive down most streets.

Looking for accommodation? Find our pick of the best options at - for every travel style and budget - at the end of this article.

Things To Do In Ciutadella

Get Lost In The Pretty Streets

When arriving in a new town or city, it can be tempting to leap immediately to ticking off the big destinations, the ‘must-dos’, the sights and views that you have read about in anticipation of your arrival. However, in Ciutadella, as with elsewhere, should you have the time we’d first recommend casting the itinerary to the side and simply roaming the pastel and ocre-hued streets in search of nothing at all.

On an island of breathtaking vistas, white-washed villages and beautiful scenes, Ciutadella remains one of the prettiest places we visited during our month on Menorca.

The colour palette and architecture reminded us of several Italian cities and Cartagena in Colombia, with Ciutadella having a grander, more imposing aesthetic than Mahon in the west. Indeed, its relative grandeur is in stark contract to the understated whitewash architecture typical of Menorcan coastal retreats and the handful of interior towns.

The historical centre is small and centralised, so you don’t have to keep an eye on the clock or worry about going too far afield. Instead, go left instead of right, don’t follow a blue dot, take a chance on a place you haven’t read about, and wander freely with eyes wide open.

It is worth bearing in mind though that the siesta - where everything shuts for a few hours after lunch - is pretty sacred here, so expect quiet streets and plenty of shuttered doorways from about 2 pm - 5 pm. For visitors who haven’t yet adjusted their body clock, it can be tempting to push on through this with cold beers and an increasingly sweaty brow, but do bear in mind that the summer heat can become stifling and there’s a reason why some tactical shade for a few hours is engrained in the local psyche.

Crucially, the narrow back alleys of Ciutadella’s historic centre have retained a sense of community and local residence, rather than bearing witness to wholesale conversion into Airbnbs. This is a bit of a rarity these days in popular European destinations, and in the cooler early evening, you’ll see several generations with their doors open and seats out in the street.

Top Tip // We'd recommend making your way over to Plaça Nova (maps) during your wanderings for a drink stop. Arrive via Carrer Josep Maria Quadrado which is home to several little delis stocking and showcasing local produce, where you can enjoy free samples as well as buy to take home.

Alternatively, you could join a walking tour of Ciutadella. This is a highly-rated two hour group tour but you can also opt for a private option (which still works out to be reasonably priced if there is a few of you).

Spend Some Time In The Port

Whether you choose to hire a boat and a skipper (more on that later), savour a seafood lunch or dinner overlooking the water or drink vermut until the wee small hours, many of you will begin or end your day in Ciutadella's pretty little harbour.

Home to million-euro boats as well as more humble vessels, its marina is lined by several cafes and restaurants offering up affordable fare and fancier eats. Recognised as one of Menorca’s best restaurants, Restaurant Café Balear (maps) has a wonderful setting - both inside and out - and exceptional reviews. It’s also super popular, and we saw queues out the door on three separate occasions over the course of two hours on a Friday evening, so if you want a table for a certain time be sure to reserve. Restaurant S´Amarador is another popular alternative.

As we mention in our post ‘23 Things to Know Before You Visit Menorca’, this is not the Balearic island you head to for nightlife. With that said however, it’s generally accepted that if you do want a few drinks in the evening or the night to carry on after dinner, the port of Ciutadella is your best bet.

Truth be told, this nightlife extends only to a handful of late night venues by the dusty car park and bars tend to shut around 2 am, but there is one small club (Discoteca Sakova) with later hours.

Be sure to check out some of our favourites below:

Jazzbah | A solid nightime favourite amongst locals and visitors alike, this rooftop bar venue also hosts live music (often jazz - hence their excellent name).

L’herba | If you’ve spent time in South America and miss those Latin vibes (as we do, every day), make a beeline for this small Colombian bar where you can salsa the night away! Definitely not a tourist spot, but that just made us love it all the more.

Iguanaport | This used to be a lovely vermuteria (if you’re not aware of the Spanish tipple Vermut, be sure to track some down on your trip!) but it seems they have transitioned to more of a late night bar / club. Despite this, it remains popular and the terrace is particularly well-liked.

Note that the port is on a level below the historic centre, so you have to go to down a set of stairs here, here. or here to access.

Top Tip // We’ve shared lots more detail below, but heading out on a boat trip from Ciutadella harbour is a great way to spend the day and easily explore more of the coastline - this full-day boat tour with lunch is very popular.

Visit Ciutadella Cathedral

Considered one of the best preserved Catalan Gothic buildings on the entire island, the 14th century Catedral de Santa Maria de Ciutadella (to give it its full name) is an architectural highlight and an absolute must-visit whilst in the city.

Built atop an old mosque - Menorca was ruled by Arab forces from the 10th to the 13th century, with Ciutadella called Madînat al Jazîra or al Manûrqa - the cathedral is much prettier than many churches on the island, with more light, decorative elements and a number of beautiful stained glass windows, with those at the high altar being particularly stunning (especially when the sun streams through and creates colourful patterns upon the stone).

This relative beauty is almost certainly due - at least in some small part - to the number of times that the Cathedral has been attacked, plundered and partially destroyed over its 700 years, leading to various remodellings, extensions and creation of chapels.

Where | The Cathedral is located in Plaça de Catedral - find it here on Google Maps.

Entry Fees | Entry to the cathedral is purchased as a combined ticket, and includes access to Claustre de l'antic Convent de sant Agusti. It’s €7.50 per adult (over 60s pay €5.50 and children under 12 enter for free). Retain your ticket as you will also need to show this to enter the cloisters.

Opening Times | Monday to Saturday 10am to 2.30pm

Additional Info | As always, dress and act appropriately as this is an active and important place of worship. Should you wish to join a service, you are able to enter the cathedral for free; note that services are in Spanish or Catalan depending upon the time of day.

The Convent & Cloisters Of Saint Augustine

Until we visited personally, it was unclear what to actually expect here but it made sense to stop by as it was twinned with the Cathedral ticket.

It transpired that the whitewash arches and tranquil courtyard of this 17th century Augustine convent, as well as the Socors Church to which it is attached, are quite breathtaking. Throw in that the cloisters also house the artefacts of Diocesan Museum of Menorca, and it’s worth of an hour of your time.

The groundfloor rooms have been transformed to display collections of religious art as well as archaeological finds from the Talayotic era and various palaeontology, malacology (the study of molluscs), entomology, and natural science exhibits. That may not float your boat necessarily, but the little Roman figurines are remarkable, there are some fascinating old maps, whilst the curios in Room 8 are pretty cool.

For us however, beyond the photogenic white arches of the cloisters, the real highlight was the captivating Baroque Socors Church, a cavernous space that enchants and unsettles in equal measures. We still don’t know if it’s decaying in a natural state, or has been artfully rendered so, but either way it has the look of an in-demand location for fashion shoots.

Where & When | The cloisters and museum are located a short walk from the Cathedral on Carrer des Seminari - find them here. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 2.30 pm

Entry Fees | As we mentioned above, entry is part of the combined ticket with the Cathedral; it can be bought here at the cloisters or at the Cathedral, dependent upon which one you visit first.

Additional Info | If you’re looking for a reasonably priced accommodation in a great location, somewhat surprisingly, you can actually stay in the cloisters! Find out more here.

Travel Tip // Though you don’t need a car to enjoy Ciutadella, and can get around to several popular coastal destinations with public transport, those of you hoping to explore much more of Menorca on day trips should consider renting your own wheels. It’s cheapest to collect at the airport, and we recommend looking + booking via Rentalcars.com as it has the best selection of local and international companies on the island, and often has discounts and deals.

For more advice, read this post: 7 Things To Know Before You Hire A Car In Menorca

Mercat Municipal de Ciutadella

In this little square of green and white check tiles, butchers in red and white aprons serve up slabs of meat between the arches, whilst female fishmongers in white gesticulate, gossip, and gut. Matriarchs of the local community gather to share stories and half-truths as flesh and fish is sliced open, old boys sip espresso as they watch old girls go by, and the soundtrack is constant chatter and chopping and cutting.

The famous fish market of Mahon takes more plaudits and sees more day-trippers, in large part due to the excellent afternoon pintxos and tapas, but the vibe of Ciutadella’s is a lot more local and quite a bit more atmospheric.

This is the beating heart of the old city.

We made our way here at various junctures during our stay, out of curiosity to see how the character changed as the day wore on, and also in expectation: this felt like a place which would transform itself into a hip, lively place to be come sundown.

During the morning until the early afternoon, the fish market housed in the small 19th century building and the butchers in the arches are busiest, and the visitor should peer, smell, wander around, people watch, and grab a coffee or lunch in one of the surrounding institutions. If staying at an apartment or aparthotel in the city, then you should also buy some of your ingredients here.

In the evening (from about 8 pm onward), especially on weekends, this is also a great spot to go and eat, and home to three of our foodie recommendations in Ciutadalla:

C’an Rafa · A firm favourite with locas and tourists alike, this casual eatery offers a small menu of seafood dishes in an unfussy environment. Prices are reasonable but expect queues if visiting during peak lunch or dinner times.

Can Padet · Ciutadella’s fanciest ice cream shop, they also offer delightful pastries and decent coffee to be enjoyed in their outdoor terrace.

New Wave · If you’ve had your fill of seafood and tapas, or are veggie in search of something other than patatas bravas, we can highly recommend this place. Each item on the menu is inspired by a different country and what we tasted was exceptionally good - if they still have the falafel, order it!

Whilst the market is open, you can also buy your fish and take it to the restaurant S’Aguait who will cook it up for you. We’re not 100% sure of the arrangement or pricing, so do let us know in the comments if you give this a go!

Where & When | The market is in Plaça de la Llibertat, here on Google Maps. Open 7.30am - 1.30pm, then 5 - 8pm, but we recommend going for the morning / afternoon slot for the market itself. The cafes and restaurants surrounding are open until late.

Travel Tip // If you’re not renting a car, but using Ciutadella as a base, then take a look at this cool jeep tour around the island*. They collect you in Ciutadella in their customised 4WD Land Rover Defender, and take you out on a customised itinerary into rural Menorca and along the coast for swimming stops, amazing landscapes, and photo opportunities - with a driver-guide able to share much more about Menorcan culture and history.

Note that at time of update, this tour was currently unavailable.

Seek Solace In The Bishop’s Palace Courtyard

When the British moved power from Ciutadella to Mahon, the Bishop of Menorca stuck his heels in: the city of the east would become the political capital, but the west would remain the Ecclesiastical centre.

If our courtyard looked like this, we’d be equally keen not to move.

The Bishop’s residence isn’t open to visitors, but you are permitted to enter this gorgeous little courtyard, which one would be able to blink and miss if they didn’t know about it.

Where & When* | Through the little door in the large wooden door at number 8, here on the map. As far as we’re aware, it’s open from 9am to 2.30pm daily, but this may be different on the weekends; you only need about five or ten minutes in the intimate courtyard.

According to Google Maps, the courtyard is currently shut. If you visit and discover otherwise (or can provide any insight into when it may be open again), we’d love to hear from you in the comments.

Entry Fees | Whilst you will be directed here upon leaving the Cathedral (which is why we had initially assumed it was part of the combined ticket), it is actually free to enter the courtyard of the Bishop’s Castle whether you have a ticket for the Cathedral or not.

Boutiques & Antiques // A few of our favourite places to browse in Ciutadella were:

Antiguitatas Menorquines | Oh what we could have bought from this antique store if we had more space in our suitcases… We’ll probably always regret leaving the 1950s street signs and a vintage siphon! A really well curated collection of antique pieces from furniture, to art, the curious to the unique. You can find it here on maps.

Carrer des Seminani | Just around the corner from the picturesque Ses Voltes, this little avenue (maps) has a handful of charming boutique stores, art galleries and the odd bistro. If you’re in the market for some new, one-of-a-kind jewellery, be sure to pop in. The little Iglesia del Sant Crist also had a very special atmosphere to it, and its statue of Jesus is revered locally.

Menorquinas | There are better places to get a handmade pair of avarcas, the fashionable sandals of the island, but you will find lots of shops selling them all over the city. Note that there is quite a marked difference in price and quality between cheap factory-made ones that’ll perhaps last the holiday, and crafted ones.

Step Back in Time at Casa Olivar

For a glimpse into how the Menorcan upper classes used to live and insight into various traditions and influences of incoming British and French tastes, consider visiting Casa Olivar, a grand palace just opposite the Cathedral.

Dating back to the 15th century and preserved by the wealthy Olivar family for generations (it is actually still their private residence), it’s considered to be one of Menorca’s finest - and best preserved - examples of a manor-type residence, filled with antiques, tapestries, subterranean stables, frescoes and moments stopped forever in time.

A highlight for us were all the remarkable black and white photos.

Where & When | You can find Casa Olivar here on Google Maps.

It’s open Monday to Friday 10.30am to 2.30pm, then 6.30pm to 9.30pm, 10.30am - 2pm on Saturdays, and closed on Sundays. There are also special guided tours on occasion.

Entry Fees | €5 per adult with concessions available, with income supporting the conservation of the house. We think only need about 45 minutes for a visit.

Top Tip // Whilst we chose to prioritise Casa Olivar, should you be so inclined, there is actually another beautiful stately home that opens its doors for visitors - the early 19th century Palau Salort. Entrance costs €6 per adult and €3 per child (it’s doubled in price in the last 18 months!) and is open 10 am - 2 pm Monday to Saturday. Gin lovers should consider visiting in the evenings when its lobby transforms into Moriarty, a stylish tapas and gin bar.

Plan | Where To Stay in Menorca

A Break at Cafeteria Ànima

Our morning rambles across the various pretty towns and villages of Menorca were always punctuated with a couple of small cups of black coffee; a much needed shot of caffeine as the sun got higher and our energy lower

Located just around the corner from our little hotel, we spotted Cafeteria Ànima on our first afternoon in Ciutadella, its cosy interior looking perfect for the next morning’s first cup of coffee - and, as it turns out, an indulgent breakfast of exceptionally good cake.

Ran by a delightful woman who has successfully created a stylish space that balances old tea shop with traditional Menorcan features, alongside contemporary design. Her cakes are also exquisite, especially the lemon cake.

Tea lovers will rejoice at the veritable selection on offer, whilst the coffee was about average for Menorca (that is, we were never really blown away by anything we were served during our month on the island).

Where | You can find the cafe here on Google Maps.

Top Tip // Another option nearby for a good coffee and pastry, and to grab fresh bread, is Herbera Bakery (map)

Watch Sunset At Pont d'en Gil

With Ciutadella located firmly on the west coast of the island, it should be of little surprise that several of Menorca's best sunset spots are relatively close to the city.

The most popular by far is Pont d'en Gil.

It’s important to be aware in advance though that this is a well-known spot and as such it becomes incredibly busy - perhaps unenjoyably so for some people. Large groups of friends bring drinks and snacks, couples snuggle up, Instagrammers instagram etc etc - quiet and romantic it ain’t.

Where | The main viewing point for Pont d’en Gil, which looks out onto the natural rock arch, is here on Google Maps. Note that reaching it involves a 5-minute walk along a dusty, flat defined trail from the parking; this trail is actually part of the Camí de Cavalls, and the startpoint is here

Parking | If you’ve got a hire car in Menorca, then it’s just a 10-minute drive to the roadside parking nearby (maps); from there you’re a around 5-minute walk along the clear dusty trail to the viewpoint. If it’s full, there are a bunch of other options to park up at nearby.

If going by bus from Ciutadella, then take the Torres Route 61 from (25-30 minutes) and walk from the stop - find out route and timetables here.

If you’re wanting to get into a good position to take photographs, you will need to arrive at least an hour before the sun sets.

Plan | 19 Wonderful Things To Do in Menorca

Hit Up the Local Beaches

Ciutadella does not have a beach of its own of note, but one of the many excellent reasons to base yourself in the city is its proximity to many of the Menorca’s best beaches.

If you’ve got a rental car for your whole holiday, or just renting one for a couple of days of dedicated exploration, then you’ll only be 30 minutes north or south from white sands and gorgeous water. The public bus network from Ciutadella to many of these beaches is also excellent, with regular departures, connections, and clear routes to the coast from the stops at Plaça dels Pins (maps) and the Via Peripheral.

The closest, most convenient options are Cala Santandria, Cala en Bosc, Cala Blanca, Cala Son Xoriguer, and Cala Morell - but do note that the first three of these are more ‘tourist zone’ beaches and towns rather than the rugged, remote calas and platjas for which the Menorca is famous.

If you’re dreaming of difficult to reach paradise places like Cala Macarelleta, Son Saura, Turqueta, or Cala Pilar, it’s worth bearing in mind that we highly recommend factoring in a full day for them as a day trip, and you do need to put in a bit of advance planning.

We’ve shared all the information and inspiration you need to know to make your choice, including transport information from Ciutadella, in this article: The 19 Best Beaches in Menorca.

If you don’t have much time, then this full-day beach + calas boat tour from Ciutadella may be your best option!

Top Tip // Just a few minutes drive from the city is the holiday resort of Los Delfines. Whilst we don't like to be unduly harsh to places we visit, we also know that those of you who read our blog posts regularly rely on our honest opinions. So, honestly, don't even consider staying there.

It's terribly run down, and one of the island's very worst examples of 'Brits in Spain' culture - the natural platforms and swimming holes of Cala en Brut (maps) are however fantastic fun and worth at least a few hours.

For advice on where you should be staying and our pick of the best accommodations for all travel styles, read our guide: Where To Stay in Menorca.

Experience Prehistoric Menorca at Naveta d’es Tudon

As we mention in ‘23 Things To Know Before You Visit Menorca’, there are countless examples of prehistoric Menorca dotted all across the island, however only the most dedicated archaeologist is likely to possess the desire to seek them all out.

For the majority of travellers, visiting one or two is more than adequate to capture a glimpse into the past, and should you be staying in Ciutadella - or visiting on a day trip - we'd recommend making a beeline for Naveta d'es Tudons (maps)

Dating back to between 1200 and 750 BC, this remarkably well preserved pre-Talaiotic funeral building is considered to be the most emblematic monument in Menorca.

A visit here takes less than 30 minutes (the only thing to see is in the above photo, but there is a decent displaying explaining the period and the importance), and it’s ideally located to be enjoyed on the way to or from the Lithaca Quarry. There is a large, free car park.

When | All day Monday, 9am - 7.45pm Wednesday to Saturday, and 9am to 3.15pm Sunday and Tuesday.

Cost | Free entry on Monday, €2 per adult, €1.20 concessions and free for children under 8.

Explore the Lithaca Quarry

Located just outside Ciutadella is an incredible example of man-made 'negative architecture', the Lithica Quarry of Pederes de s'Hostal.

Providing the limestone building blocks for many of the island's old buildings, its closure in 1994 left a structurally beautifully, carved void which was at risk of simply being filled and forgotten forever. Laetitia Sauleau Lara however had alternative plans and instead created the Lithica Foundation, restoring the 200-year old quarry, developing its gardens, and creating a unique cultural and artistic space for future generations of Menorcans and tourists alike.

This is one of our best things to do in Menorca.

Where & When | You can find the quarry here on the map. It has free parking on site, and is 10-minute drive from Ciutadella. Unfortunately there are no bus connections that we’re aware of, but this full-day jeep tour does can include a stop here in your customised itinerary (when it’s available).

Alternatively, read our advice on car hire in Menorca.

Open daily, 9.30am - 2. 30pm between November and March, and until sunset in for the rest of the year (only the morning on Sundays for entire year). Note that the closing time will change during the seasons, so it’s always worth double-checking before your own visit. We recommend having at least 90 minutes for this activity though, so don’t leave your arrival too close to sunset as your time will be limited.

Entry | €10 for adults, €7 for 65+, free for children under 12 years old. It is now recommended to buy your ticket online, in advance.

They also offer a 90 minute guided tour on specific days for €18 per person, and you can find full details on the official website.

Good To Know | The Quarry is a sometime venue for events and live performances, which make the most of the unique acoustics and setting, so it’s worth taking a look at their website for your dates to see if tickets are available for something interesting.

Take A Boat Trip

One of the most popular things to do in Ciutadella is to head out on the water for a day to swim, snorkel, visit beaches, and live the good life; exactly how to do this though comes down to your budget and your travel style!

The first option is to join a full-day group sailing trip, which departs from Ciutadella at 10 am and returns you (sunkissed and a little more squiffy) at 5 pm. A popular option to see the beautiful virgin beaches of the south coast is this full-day boat tour with paella lunch. It includes swimming & snorkelling in the blue waters of Cala Turqueta, a paella lunch, a sangria, free time at two of our favourites beaches as well as lots of swimming.

Two highly-rated alternatives are:

Natural Coves + Beaches | Starting out in the morning from Ciutadella, this boat trip includes lunch and stops at several of the most beautiful beaches in southern Menorca, as well as plenty time for swimming.

Menorca By Sea | A more intimate, small-group sailing experience, captain Robert departs Ciutadella on his beautiful 10-metre wooden sail boat to explore the west coast of Menorca and enjoy lots of secluded swimming and snorkelling. This reviews for this experience are amazing across the board and it’s well-priced too.

Alternatively, you can go it on your own and hire a self-drive boat for the day! These don’t require a licence or experience (seriously!), and so it’s understandably something that appeals…but the price of it can be prohibitive in high season if you’re just a couple. You can find the boat hire companies at the harbour, on the opposite side to all the restaurants.

However, do note that Ciutadella isn’t the only place in Menorca where you can hire a self-drive boat - and it does have disadvantages relative to somewhere like Cala Galdana. Before making your mind up, check out this article: ‘How To Rent a Boat in Menorca Without A Licence’.

Where To Eat & Drink in Ciutadella

We’ve sprinkled our main recommendations above, but a few additional ones to add to your list are:

Restaurante Vegetariano Fang I Aram | One of the best spots for vegetarians in CIutadella, their daily lunch menus (menu del día) are fixed at €20.50 and offer up a lot of choice. Open 1 - 4pm, then 7.45 - 11pm, with no evening service on Sundays and closed Wednesdays.

Pez Limon | On the pricier side for Menorca, but this cool hidden-away and deceptively foodie place offers up modern twists on traditional plates. The emphasis is very much on seafood, so veggies may leave hungry. Booking 100% necessary for the evening.

La Margarete | Just next door and open until 2am most evenings, this is one of the cooler late-night hangouts in Ciutadella. Serves up cocktails, music, and a good vibe with a massive garden to enjoy it all in.

Restaurante Es Tast de na Silvia | We didn’t eat here as the menu was quite pig and pork heavy, but we are actually recommending because of the values which put those on the menu in the first place. The emphasis is on KM 0 ingredients (i.e. produced on the island) and slow food, served in a more formal, fine dining indoors setting that most of our recommendations. Carnviorous foodies in Menorca should probably put it high up their list.

Casa Lola | Cute little hipster place in Plaça del Pins offering up sandwiches and traditional sharing plates with a twist or two, and an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.

Puspaayu | A younger, modern vibe than most in Ciutadalla, it’s a few doors down from Casa Lola and specialises in burgers.

Entre Suros | Small, buzzy local tapas place just off Plaça Nova, which has a very authentic menu and atmosphere - particularly when the tables spill out on to the pavement for dinner.

Katu Restaurant | This excellent, experimental and downright foodie Mexican restaurant used to be located in another building (and under the name Nopales) - it was in the old premises that we indulged in a plate of appetisers and excellent tacos. With an emphasis on quality and authenticity, their new location has allowed them to expand the menu and develop a quite impressive cocktail menu. You many not come to Menorca for Mexican food, but it’s a good chance for the tastebuds to take an exciting break from the more traditional flavour offerings on the island.

A reader contacted us recently with effusive praise on Dos Camins - a new restaurant run by two brothers - so let us know if it lives up to it.

Where to Stay in Ciutadella

There are lots of nice hotels in historic townhouses, as well as some gorgeous boutique options. Airbnbs are thin on the ground due to regulations in Menorca, but there are some available if you’re able to get in early. There are also quite a few hotels in townhouses which are run like an Airbnb (i.e. no staff, self check-in).

All accommodations are in the historical centre unless stated otherwise.

Hotels & Guest houses

Faustino Gran Relais & Chateaux | If money is no object, then this stunning boutique hotel should go right to the top of your list! Housed in a 17th century chateau in the centre of the historic district, they offer a variety of luxurious suites and elegant rooms, all with exquisite decor. They also have an indoor and outdoor pool, as well as gardens.

At a similar price-point, you could also consider Hotel Ca S'Arader Turismo de Interior, Calma Boutique Hotel or La Cayena Hotel Boutique - Solo Adultos

Sodium Boutique Hotel | An excellent choice for anybody that appreciates contemporary design, the real plus point with this excellent hotel is that every room has a good sized balcony or private terrace.

Port Antic Ciutadella | This is where we stayed. Located in the historic centre, it is a collection of rooms in a traditional townhouse, all decorated in a contemporary style. Quiet and excellent value (less than £100 a night), but do note there are no staff on-site, instead all entry codes / check-in is done online.

HoMe Menorca | This is one we had our eye on, but alas was snapped up for our dates. Operating in a similar way to Port Antic, HoMe has bigger rooms, better communal space (including an outdoor area) and cool styling, as well as including a simple breakfast. Excellent location.

Hotel Nou Sant Antoni | Remarkably well-priced for such a beautiful hotel, Hotel Nou Sant Antoni reminds us somewhat of the accommodations you can stay at in Puglia. Charming communal areas and guests speak highly of the breakfast.

Airbnbs

Charming Studio | A gorgeous little studio apartment (one of several in the same building), combining traditional Menorcan features, like white-washed walls - with unique decoration collected on the owner’s travels. A real gem - and very highly rated.

Menorca Sa Font | A beautiful three bedroom townhouse that has recently been refurbished to a high standard. Light and bright with clean lines and contemporary decor. In the historic centre, it also has a wonderful private outdoor area.

Casa Centro | This central, five bedroom townhouse is remarkably well priced (from just £86 a night). Set over multiple floors it feels traditional and homely in its design. Includes small private outdoor area.

Town House With Pool | Located a short walk from the old town, this modern three-bed property with would really suit a family who have hired a car and wish to explore the island. Large kitchen with all mod cons, excellent bedrooms and - best of all - a private pool!

Unfortunately, at the time of update (January 2026), the following properties were not available - they are actually very, very few apartments in Ciutadella - but we’re keeping the listings here as they were two top picks. Feel free to check them out in case they reappear, and we’ll keep an eye on them too!

Ciutadella Traditional House | This lovely little two bedroom house in the historic centre reminds us a lot of the properties we’ve stayed in in Puglia - full of traditional features, it has been sensitively refurbished to maintain its original architectural features. A very popular choice!

Designer Loft | The most expensive Airbnb on the list, but this funky one-bedroom loft definitely deserves a mention - especially for its large plant-filled terrace. Note that the loft is within a boutique hotel, and is adults only. This Airbnb is currently unavailable on the website, but because it’s so lovely we’ll keep an eye on the listing and let you know when it’s back online!

Ubicación privilegiada en Ciutadella | Simple, modern and large one-bedroom apartment ideal for a couple. Good value (from £85 a night), the real highlight is the huge terrace that overlooks the historic centre - an ideal spot to watch the sun set! Unfortunately, this is also currently unavailable.

If you really do have your heart set on a terrace, be sure to take a look at this beautiful three-bed with wonderful views over the old town.

Hostels

Hostal Ciutadella | A new, modern hostel in the old town. They have a variety of clean, light and bright multi-occupancy rooms (no dorms) and excellent reviews. On-site bar and restaurant.

Also consider Hostal Menurka (not a hostel, despite the name, but cheap enough to be one!).

If you’re still not sure where should be your base in Menorca, then you absolutely should read this post: Where To Stay in Menorca.

Ciutadella Transport Connections

As we mentioned above, the bus network to and from Ciutadella is exceptionally good, with regular buses to Mahón (Maó) as well as many of the popular beach towns, remote calas, as well as holiday resort towns.

The Torres Bus company departs from Plaça dels Pins (maps), which has a staffed-kiosk from which you can buy tickets and get clear information. They also have departures from the Via Peripheral / Avinguda de Josep Mascaró Pasarius (maps), which is not terribly central.

This company is the best option for journeys in the western half of Menorca - see schedules and routes on their website.

The other bus company, TMSA, is best for journeys further afield to Mahón, Son Bou, Cala Galdana, or Sant Tomàs. It departs from Plaça de la Pau (maps), which is a bit more of a walk from the centre and the port. Visit their website to see schedules, stops, and routes.

Ciutadella is also the most convenient place to access the famous beaches of the south west coast by public transport, but note that some services will only run to the beaches or coastal resorts during the tourist season (May to October). We’ve written two shorts posts with all the information you’ll need to go from Ciutadella to Cala Macarella and Cala Mitjana.

To travel from the airport to the city you have three options, and we’ve shared everything you need to know in this post: How to get from Menorca Airport to Ciutadella.

Parking in Ciutadella

If you're staying in Ciutadella old town and arriving by rental car, you'll almost certainly have to park in one of the designated car parks and walk with your luggage to the accommodation. Most streets are simply too narrow for cars, and those wide enough are only accessible to residents. Apparently a lot of visitors get really confused at this situation, but it’s pretty standard and straightforward

The good news is that, as with most car parks across the island, those in Ciutadella are completely free, irrespective of how long you park up.

We parked in a large dusty lot right by the port for the duration of our stay which seems to know longer be open but there are a few alternative options here, here and here - all of which are free. It felt safe to leave the car overnight, but do note that it fills up quickly on weekend evenings due to people arriving for dinner and drinks in the city.

If still uncertain, just contact your accommodation in advance to confirm their suggestion.

To find the best overview of prices + availability, check out Rentalcars.com.

Travel Better in Menorca

19 Wonderful Things to Do in Menorca

The Best Beaches in Menorca

23 Things to Know Before You Visit Menorca

7 Things To Know Before Walking the Camí de Cavalls

Where to Stay In Menorca

13 Wonderful Things to Do in Mahón | Menorca’s Colourful Capital

Travel More in Spain

Updated January 2026

There’s a good chance that Calabria won’t be the first region you’ve visited in Italy.

Down in the mountainous deep south, the toe to Puglia’s heel and trying to kick Sicily across the narrow Strait of Messina, it’s far less visited than its two sultry neighbours. In comparison to famous and famously crowded coastal destinations to the north - like the Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terre - it’s practically unknown.

Or at least unspoiled.

If you’ve already spent time in all or some of the above, then your Calabrian curiosity is inevitable: this is a place that only emerges once Italy has already got deep under your skin.

For us, after being fortunate enough to spend a decent amount of each of the last six summers in various parts of the country, its call became irresistible.

The poorest region in Italy, Calabria is surrounded by water and split in two by the southern Apennines. Like a sleeping giant’s spine, the rugged silver mountains separate the Tyrrhenian Sea on the west from the Ionian Sea to the east, and almost everything is trapped or tilted between the peaks and the water. Towns and villages are mostly teetering on hilltops, secreted in the folds of the mountains, or clinging on to a coastal cliff edge.

The sometimes challenging topography is what gives Calabria such a distinctive look and feel to elsewhere in southern Italy: all dramatic green hills, steep off-white granite cliffs, slivers of secret white sand beaches, mystical caves, and slender roads twisting down to the irresistible blues of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The cliché would be to describe its long coastline and sparsely populated countryside all as a bit more rugged and wild than elsewhere, but the fact of the matter is that the peninsula has - hands down - the best water and the most beautiful sand beaches we’ve visited in Italy.

And far fewer people with whom to share them - for now.

Poverty and the malignant presence of organised crime are two factors in large-scale tourism being slow to arrive, and it’s still a nascent destination for European and North American travellers in comparison to many other in the Mediterranean (though more Americans visit due to heritage connections). It lacks some of the beautiful heritage and architecture one simply takes for granted elsewhere in Italy, and may not yet offer everything those with a luxe travel style or need for certain infrastructure require, but for others it will be a delight.

After our road trip last summer, we’re delighted to share our pick of the best things to do in Calabria. With all the essential information and inspiration on the best beaches, towns, foods, day trips, and activities - plus travel better tips along the way - it will help you plan your vacation or adventure in southern Italy.

This is 13 Wonderful Things to Do in Calabria.

The Best Things To Do in Calabria

Explore The Beaches of The Costa degli Dei

The stretch of coast known as the Costa degli Dei (Coast of the Gods) is simply divine.

Stretching just under 35 miles from Pizzo to Nicotera, it encompasses the pick of Calabria’s beaches, several must-visit towns, and has waters that rivals anything you’ll find in the Caribbean or Maldives.Calabria’s beaches

Seriously.

The soft white and pale gold sand beaches are all beautiful, fringing warm, shallow waters with those signature Calabrian blues. Many are free of lidos and development, with lots of spiaggia libera (free beach) to enjoy.

The catch is that some will be too difficult to access for children or those with mobility issues - including our favourites of Spiaggia di Ficara and Spiaggia Praia di Fuocu. Additionally, several of the Costa degli Dei beaches have zero facilities beyond the sand and the sea, meaning you have to take everything in + out with you for the day (and waaaay more water than you think).

Marina di Zambrone is however ideal for families and ease of access.

Know | Using trains and buses to access the Costa degli Dei beaches will usually require a walk: sometimes long, sometimes short, often down a steep hill. If you want to visit the more secluded and wild ones on day trips, then it’s best to have a rental car - we recommend looking + booking via Rentalcars.com or AutoEurope

Tip | If you’re planning a lot of beach time in Calabria for a week or two, then it’s a good idea to buy your own colourful parasol to blend in with the locals and guarantee some much-needed shade.

Plan // We’ve shared all our favourites and all the info you need to pick and plan your own visit in this post - The Best Beaches in Tropea & Costa degli Dei.

Explore Capo Vaticano by Boat

Jutting out from just above the toe of Italy’s boot toward Sicily across the narrow Straits of Messina, the promontory’s scenery is dramatic, rugged, and amongst the best you’ll find on the Costa degli Dei.

And no, it’s got nothing to do with the Pope.