Where the dust meets the black gravel, Playa Venao is a beach town divided.

On one side: a too-large car park stripped of nature and filled with SUVs, converted shipping-containers, widescreen TVs show sports sports sports, billboards for multi-day electronic beach parties, and modern condos that could belong anywhere from Florida to Baja. Enclosed, new, and defined by metal, concrete, and glass contrasts.

On the other: open-sided restaurants, wooden structures built for breeze rather than air-con, and a more porous, mutual relationship with the tropical landscape.

Palapa, dusty, barefoot, and softer - shaped by nature rather than trying to taming it.

Same crescent bay, radically different feel depending on where you are.

From its origins as an off-the-beaten-track surfer secret, this hub on a gorgeous stretch of the Azuero Peninsula has really only been built in the last two decades. There’s now a new road, a gas station, and resort-living ‘real estate’ opportunities, with a layout and a vibe unlike any other Panamanian beach town. A long-term resident told us over coffee that the split in the bay is mainly due to a fallout between investors who drove Playa Venao’s initial development, and their competing visions of what a beach town should be are clearly still at play.

Modern and manicured on the left side, or curated and rustic to the right.

One could say you get the best of both worlds - but to us, the contrast is jarring and needs to be factored in with eyes wide open.

If you do that, and choose to stay or hang out mostly on the side which mostly suits your travel style, then there’s a lot to like about Playa Venao. It offers some of the best foodie options we found on our month-long Panama trip, two gorgeous beaches to choose from, plus good surf and swimming. For those looking for more of a vacation vibe than a backpacker one, it certainly ticks a lot of boxes, and is firmly established itself as the place to go in Panama to party.

In this article, we’ve shared the best things to do in Playa Venao, plus advice on where to stay, where to eat, and how to get there from elsewhere in Panama.

This is our travel guide to Playa Venao.

The Playa Venao Essentials

Learn / To surf on the small, consistent waves
Drink / Cocktails at La Barca
Walk / The Eco Venao loop to the waterfall
Relax / On the gorgeous La Playita beach
Take / A day trip to Islas Iguanas
Book / Your shuttle from Panama City
Stay / Dos Mares, Beach Break Surf Camp, Eco Venao or one of the Blue Venao Airbnbs

Things to Do in Playa Venao

Go Surfing

If you’ve ever thought about learning to surf, Playa Venao may be perfect for you.

The beach slopes gently into the water, the bottom is soft sand rather than sharp reef, and the waves are usually in that sweet spot: big enough to get you moving, but rarely intimidating. It’s one of the most accessible surf spots in Panama, and ideal for first-timers and those still building confidence.

It’s especially popular for beginners during the summer months, when the swell is smaller and spaced out nicely - meaning if you do end up in the water (you will), you’ll usually have time to get back on the board before the next wave rolls in! Stronger surfers do still head out here (especially locals), but we noticed they generally stuck to the right side of the beach where there’s a little more power to play with; on the whole it’s not where people come chasing big barrels.

Serious surfers do however base themselves here and venture out in 4x4s to find those.

Lessons typically cost around $40 USD, and if you want to keep the board afterwards for extra practice, you’ll need to rent one separately. Daily rentals are available from a myriad of agencies on and behind the beach with prices hovering around $20, but prices get much better the longer you keep it; a week-long rental of around $90 is pretty normal, and ideal if you know you’ll be in and out of the water most days.

Booking a couple of lessons early in your stay will save you wasting time battling the basics alone, and instructors will help you pick the calmest spot in the bay based on that morning’s conditions. Speaking of which, mornings are usually the best window - cleaner waves, lighter winds, and smaller crowds.

Surf Schools & Camps

There are plenty of places in Venao that will hand you a board and send you towards the sea, but a few outfits stand out if you want a bit more structure than that.

Shokogi Surf School runs lessons, surf camps, and custom surf trips out of Playa Venao, aimed squarely at beginners and intermediates who want to actually progress rather than just tick ‘went surfing’ off a list. Camps range from week-long to longer progression stays, with daily coaching, theory, and kit included, plus accomodation. They’re also a good option for board rental and have great long-term deals on a variety of boards.

Beach Break Surf Camp is a long-running beachfront hotel and surf camp that packages up lessons, board hire, accommodation and meals, with everything happening a few steps from the sand. It’s well set up for solo travellers, couples, and even families, and a good shout for people who want surf to be the focus of their time here without fussing about logistics.

Ride the Waves have a small property in the heart of Playa Venao where they offer surf and yoga retreats in more boutique surroundings.

At El Sitio de Playa Venao, the surf set-up is more low-key but still very convenient: you’re staying right at the centre of the bay, with board rental and lessons easily arranged, and a good bar attached for the post-session drink.

Although we can’t full-heartedly recommend the Selina properties in Playa Venao - scroll down to our ‘where to stay’ section to find out why - it would be remiss of us not to mention their surf camps. They offer shorter packages with lessons and all-day board rental which would suit a beginner looking to catch their first wave (as opposed to more intermediate surfers looking to improve).

Follow the Cascada Trail

The hills behind Playa Venao were once little more than grazed pastureland, cleared for cattle and largely devoid of shade - Eco Venao changed that.

The land was bought with a clear intention to reforest it and build eco-focussed lodges, and over the years the project has quietly taken root. What you walk through today is a young but thriving forest, and the trail is open to non-guests, so anyone staying in Playa Venao can explore it.

The loop takes around 45 minutes to an hour depending on how often you stop. It mostly meanders through forest, but at about halfway passes by the most idyllic waterfall and swimming hole; we’ve been to a lot of spots like this, but this one was really quite wonderful.

It was also surprisingly quiet on the late Sunday morning we visited, with just two other couples peacefully chilling in the cool water.

Annoyingly we didn’t pack our swimstuff so had to be satisfied with a wee paddle - don’t make the same mistake!

The trail then climbs steadily towards a mirador with panoramic views across the bay. If you don’t have a drone, this is the easiest way to get that bird’s-eye perspective of Venao: the curve of beach below, surfers out on the break, and the green hills rising behind. It’s peaceful up here too; sit on one of the benches for a while and let the breeze do its thing.

Where | You can find Eco Venao here, around a 15-minute walk from the centre of the village.

Parking is located a short distance from the entrance, which is where you’ll find the small reception area on the right hand side.

Entrance Fee | Entry for non-guests is $4 USD per person, and you will be provided with a helpful little map and any further information you require.

Bring | It’s not a difficult hike, but we would recommend taking water and avoiding doing it in the middle of the day.

As mentioned, we didn’t pack our swimstuff so had to be satisfied with a wee paddle - don’t make the same mistake!

Tip // If you can, go in the week for optimising chances of no others. You can also stay at Eco Venao - check availability here

Spend the Day at La Playita

A short drive - or amble through the forest - from the main sweep of Playa Venao, La Playita feels like a different proposition altogether.

Quieter, greener, wilder and far more about swimming than surf.

Much more Latino in vibe and set-up too.

The water here is strikingly clear and calm, with a pale blue colour that barely ripples on most days, and stays shallow for a good stretch from the shore. Indeed, it feels closer to a natural swimming pool than open ocean, making it especially well-suited to families or anyone keen on a long, unhurried dip (without worrying about getting hit in the head by a rogue board).

The beach is backed by a line of trees that provide reliable shade throughout the day, and there are simple wooden tables dotted beneath them, used by local families for picnics, particularly at weekends.

We visited on a Sunday an it was understandably much busier, but given there were so few travellers there, it would likely feel beautifully calm in the week.

We really loved it.

How to Get There | You can find La Playita here on Google Maps.

If you have a car, we recommend driving there but be fully aware that the road to reach the beach is unpaved, very bumpy and probably not worth attempting after heavy rain (unless you have a 4WD).

Going a bit quicker over the stones is better than slowing right down by the way.

Parking is a free for all, and will fill up on weekends.

Alternatively, you can arrive via a trail beginning in Playa Venao that passes through the trees. This takes around 30 minutes but we were advised by a local that it should only be attempted during low tide. As this beach is best enjoyed at high tide, this means that unless you spend the entire day here, you will inevitably have to arrive or return at least one way via the road. Let us know in the comments if you have more advice/experience for this!

Entrance Fee | There is unfortunately (and surprisingly) an entrance fee to access La Playita. This is $5 USD per person Monday to Thursday, and $7 USD at the weekend. If you’re bringing in a cooler, it’s $10 USD per person. Cash only.

It’s likely that you don’t have to pay admission if you arrive by via the trail as the payment was taken at the gated entrance.

Amenities | There is a simple restaurant here, serving hearty Panamanian dishes and selling cold beers and soft drinks. Annoyingly however, unlike many places we’ve visited in Central America that charge a fee to access, you cannot redeem your entry against any food and drink.

There’s also a small hotel.

There’s a small nature trail you can follow, home to a large family of howler monkeys and lots of bright red parrots. Plus, oddly enough, a couple of deer. The monkeys and birds stayed in the trees so no real concerns about their welfare, but the deer could find it overwhelming during busier periods.

Enjoy Sunset Cocktails

Whilst the sun doesn’t drop directly into the ocean in Playa Venao, it doesn’t make the sunsets any less spectacular; the whole bay glows, the hills fade into layered silhouettes, and the surfers become barely visible dots against a fire-filled sky.

And what’s the best way to enjoy a sunset? With an expertly-made cocktail and a good soundtrack.

Given that bars, restaurants and hotels run the entire length of the main beach, there are no shortage of spots to settle in for the golden hour, but after our few nights spent in Venao, there are two that standout as our pick of the bunch:

El Sitio | One of Playa Venao’s more popular hotels (think barefoot luxury with a side of surf retreats), even if you’re not staying here, you should absolutely pop by the beach front bar for a sunset drink. The reasonably-priced cocktails are excellent, the sofas low and comfy, and the bar has an Ibiza-like style and vibe. Earlier in the evening the soundtrack skews more chilled but live DJs can quickly turn the atmosphere on its head - in a positive way if you’re looking for a night out.

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La Barca | We didn’t hit our party stride during our time in Playa Venao, so the relaxed nature of La Barca, located toward the quieter, nature-filled end of Playa Venao, suited us much more. Part of the Eco Venao property and so named for the boat-shaped bar, there’s no real divide between that and the beach - tables are set directly on the sand, shoes are optional, and the soundtrack tends to be the sea rather than whatever’s playing behind the bar.

The cocktails lean more ‘interesting’ than traditional, and the mixologists are happy to make suggestions (though a bit too pushy on the specials). We could have spent several hours lounging on the giant netted hammock overlooking the beach, and the food looked goodt.

Good to Know // Selina, the eponymous hostel chain that became massive across Latin America, actually began here in this very town. We never loved them, and the company has since failed, but their first hostel in Venao continues to be a popular place to grab a drink for locals and visitors alike. However, Selina Playa didn’t really have the vibe we were hoping for, feeling a little like an unorganised beach club, with people mostly there to use the pool.

If we were paying to stay there, it would be pretty annoying.

It does have special DJ and salsa nights on throughout the month though, so it may be worth keeping an eye on what they’re advertising but we wouldn’t be rushing to spend our sunset there when there are other really great options available.

Save the Turtles

One of the most meaningful and responsible things you can do in Playa Venao is join the local conservation effort run by Tortugas Playa Venao.

This grassroots, not-for-profit organisation - started in 2020 - patrols the sands nightly during nesting season (roughly July to November, peaking in September and October), relocates vulnerable nests, monitors hatchlings, and helps release them safely into the Pacific.

And if you happen to be there at the right time of year, you can join them on one of their nightly releases, to watch the tiny turtles scuttle off toward the waves under moonlight! It costs $50 USD per person, with all proceeds directly funding the incredible they do to support the indigenous Ridley Sea Turtles.

You can find out more information on their official website, and book your place on one of the nighttime releases.

They also offer short and long term volunteer opportunities for those that would like a more hands-on and informative experience, including discounted rates on accommodations.

Know | The goal is to protect these creatures, not disturb them so if you join a hatchling release, don’t shine bright lights at them, avoid flash photography, and remain respectful at all times.

What We Would Have Done If We’d Had More Time | A Day Trip to Isla Iguana

Once used for target practice by the US Navy in the Second World War, this tiny island located just off the Azuero Coast - surrounded by the oldest coral reef in Panama - was designated a wildlife reserve more than 40 years ago.

Accessed via a 20-30 minute boat ride from Pedasi, today Isla Iguana is a popular day trip from Playa Venao, with visitors drawn to its marine life - the snorkelling is apparently next level - wild beauty and crystal clear waters.

If we’d had just another day, we would absolutely have made our way over here! Alas, we prioritised diving time to Santa Catalina.

How to Get There | If you have a car, it’s around a 1.5 hour drive from Venao to Pedasi, and boats depart from Playa El Arenal (maps). Boats cost a flat fee of $80 USD for the round trip, and hold up to five people. There are no fixed departure times, but all visitors must be off the island by 3.30pm so you should try and arrive by 9am at the latest to make the most of your time (earlier if visiting on the weekend when the boats can be quite busy).

Entry Fee | As this is a protected area, all visitors must pay an entry fee of $10 USD and you will need to record your passport details.

Alternative | If you don’t have your own vehicle, it’s also possible to join this snorkelling tour from Playa Venao, which includes transport.

Important | There are a handful of simple trails that cut across the island’s interior dry forest, and it’s important that you don’t veer off from them - it’s highly likely that there’s unexploded ordnance scattered across its 53 hectares.

Travel Tip // Roughly between July and October, humpback whales migrate along this stretch of Pacific coast, and several operators in the Pedasí / Venao area run combined whale-watching and Isla Iguana snorkelling trips. If you’re visiting in season and fancy a day off the surfboard, this could be a very special add-on!

Where to Stay in Playa Venao

Hotels & Hostels

Dos Mares Venao Village | This relatively new option is one of our favourites in Playa Venao (if you don’t mind not being on the beach). They offer a handful of really beautiful wooden bungalows, in a contemporary aesthetic with considered touches and details, all scattered around a gorgeous pool area. One of the highest-rated accommodations in town too.

El Sitio de Playa Venao | The location of one of Venao’s most popular dinner and drinks spots, El Sitio is also a hotel with a barefoot luxury sort of vibe. The rooms are large, comfortable, and tastefully decorated with a considered rustic aesthetic - think a natural palette with lots of wood. There’s also a guest pool and lots of lounging areas. It’s a super popular choice for good reason!

Wao Beach Venao | The real selling point of this accommodation is its beachfront position and gorgeous pool area, which has quite an exclusive feel to it. The hotel itself is a storage container set-up though, which definitely won’t appeal to everyone given that the rooms themselves can be a little on the cramped size - especially considering the prices are pretty high.

Beach Break Surf Camp | We ummed and ahhhed about staying here, and still think it’s a fantastic option in Playa Venao - both for those looking to surf and people, like us, just seeking a spot to chill. The rooms are simple but comfortable - they’ve got privates and dorms - and the accommodation is beachfront. They have an on-site restaurant which was very popular and offer surf lessons and rental.

Nao Hostel | Where we stayed. We ended up here because we didn’t want to pay the high prices associated with staying on the beachfront. The contemporary shipping container set-up is okay for a night or two, but the rooms were too cramped for a longer stay and can jar a bit. Doubles share locked bathrooms with another room, and there’s a guest kitchen. Around a 10-minute walk from beach.

Wao Jungle Venao is also on the same site and offers slightly larger, nicer options.

Eco Venao Lodge | Set back from the beach, in a re-forested area, they offer eco lodges for a back-to-nature experience. Staying here would offer a very different experience of Venao to the above, and will be well-suited to some travel styles (but not all).

Apartments & Villas

Blue Venao | A gated beachfront residential complex made up of privately owned villas, apartments, and penthouses, many of which are rented out on Airbnb. Rather than feeling like a single hotel, it reads more like a small, well-designed neighbourhood, with landscaped grounds, direct beach access, and a layout that keeps most properties just a short walk from the sand.

Guests staying here benefit from shared amenities including a beachfront pool area, a beach club and restaurant, and on-site security, which makes it particularly appealing for longer stays or anyone wanting a more self-contained base in Playa Venao. It’s a good option if you like the idea of having space and facilities on hand, while still being close to the surf and the rest of the bay.

It feels like almost all the properties on Airbnb in town are actually in Blue Venao, so this isn’t exhaustive, but here are some of our top picks:

One Bedroom / Mermade Suite, Couple’s Getaway,

Two Bedroom / Luxury Apartment, Beach Bliss Retreat, Beachside Oasis, Stunning Oceanview Condo

Three Bedroom / Nearly Oceanfront, Vila Sueño Azul

Playa Laska | Travelling to Playa Venao with family or friends? You need to take a look at this stunning beachfront villa. Set across two floors, it offers three large double bedrooms and ample communal space - all exquisitely furnished.

Beachfront Home is a good shout if you need somewhere with a fourth bedroom.

A note about the two Selinas // This is the spot that the Selina hostel chain began, and they previously had two properties - Selina Playa and Selina River. As mentioned, the company failed in 2024 but these two hostels remain open.

We wouldn’t recommend staying in either of them though.

The one by the river has that typical tired Selina vibe (although the restaurant is decent and in a nice setting). The other beachfront one could be nicer but the fact that any Tom, Dick or Harry can use the pool - seemingly without a fee - means it gets overrun with locals on the weekend. Given the high prices of the rooms, we’d be furious if we couldn’t enjoy the benefits of the signature pool area just because someone bought a cocktail.

Where to Eat in Playa Venao

As mentioned, you can eat really really well in Playa Venao if you know where to look and not too focussed on your budget. Given the sizeable Israeli community based here - both travellers and residents - you’ll find lots of excellent, authentic dishes you may not expect in Panama!

Coleos | An Israeli & Asian fusion restaurant in a nice patio setting, this was a consistently popular spot during our stay. Serving up large portions of excellent rice and noodle dishes (Andrew’s Filipina Picante was excellent, as was the flamed aubergine). Helpfully for non-meat eaters, all options are vegetarian by default then you can add a protein.

Motek | The great ice-cream equaliser is pistachio, and this spot passed the test! The star of the show however was the ‘real chocolate’ which was truly exceptional.

Hummuseria | Really good lunch spot offering houmous plates, stuffed pitas and a handful of other main dishes. We opted for the sharing platter of nine small plates ($17) including hummus, labneh, babaganous, various fermented veggies, vine leaves and pita and were really delighted with our choice.

Sol Venao | Recommended to us as the best spot for a healthy breakfast and we wholeheartedly agree. Offering smoothie bowls, chia pudding, pancakes and regular smoothies, it was the perfect start to the day. Its location back from the beach makes it a super chilled spot too.

La Quincha | This fusion Spanish and Panamanian restaurant offers wonderful ambience and design, with incredibly good value plates with foodie consideration. Carnivores will love it, but we went for the highly recommended ceviche, tuna tartar, and catch of the day. It’s a little on the pricey side but more than worth it - our recommendation if you want something memorable in the evening.

Almendros Cafe | We headed here after hearing that they served the best coffee in town. Our coffees were nothing terribly special but the breakfasts were really decent. Located within the River Selina property, it feels a little like you’re amongst the jungle (we wouldn’t stay here, but it’s a nice spot for food).

Gato Loco | A popular spot for dinner that makes a decent pizza. If dining here in the evening, we’d recommend grabbing a table on the sand as the music can be obnoxiously loud under the roof and near the kitchen.

How to Get to Playa Venao

By Car

A lot of travellers have a rental car here.

We drove to Playa Venao from El Valle de Anton, following the road south as it unwound through the Azuero Peninsula. This was one of the longest driving days of our trip - 243km/150 miles - but not a chore. We took our time, taking in the surroundings, the towns and the culture, but you can cover it in four hours without stops.

If coming from Panama City, it’s around a five-hour drive.

There’s now a gas station, but it’s best to fill up before you arrive in Venao as costs about 20-25% more.

By Shuttle

As we explain below, travelling to Playa Venao by bus is totally possible. However, given the time required, shuttles are the most popular way to reach Playa Venao.

You can usually arrange these with your accommodation in Panama City, but if you’d prefer to book it in advance of your arrival, this one has excellent reviews.

They also have an option going in the opposite direction if you’re travelling down through Panama.

By Bus

From Panama City | First you’ll need to take a bus to Las Tablas. These depart from Panama City’s Albrook Bus Station approximately every hour from 6am to 4pm, but be aware that the final destination may say Chitré instead. Tickets cost $10 USD per person and the journey should take around four hours.

From Las Tablas there is one direct bus to Playa Venao which leaves around 1pm (takes approximately 75 minutes). If you miss this - or will be waiting around for it - you can alternatively hop on one of the frequent departures to Pedasi from which there are more regular minibuses to Venao - we believe these leave at 11am, 2pm, 4pm and 7pm.

Alternatively, you can speed up the journey by taking a taxi for the final leg - the fare from Pedasí to Playa Venao will cost approximately $25 USD, and from Las Tablas approximately $35 - $40 USD.

If these buses to Playa Venao improve, or there’s a better way to do the journey, let us know in the comments!

From El Valle | This is the previous stop in our suggested Panama itinerary. Unfortunately, there’s currently no direct public or shuttle bus from El Valle to Venao. Instead, start early with the bus for Panama City, but get off at Las Uvas. From there, takes a bus to Chitre and then the bus to Las Tablas and follow the directions above.

Due to the multiple connections, this journey can take 7+ hours so it’s important to set off in good time to make that 1.30pm bus (doesn’t run on Sundays).